stegl

Working on another nosecone and hope that I can have this done in next day or so. The replacement paints are what I am having trouble in locating.

badazzgti03

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Stegl,
looks like your moving along sorta well...sorry bout the wire...I've been having the same issue with the paint...well the grey..its been pretty damn hard to match the gray.. I actually matched the green pretty well with some flat army green spray can car paint. Its just a hit darker but works well. I don't know bout the the gray, been buying all theses paints and nothing has been matching. But on the other had i got a lot done on the mossy over the weekend. started and finished kinda on the nose cone...want to re work it cause the pointyness im not diggin too much...need to make it more round like yours. here are some pics. I also fired this bad boy up in my shop/office lol. With the Rimfire .60s on 6s lipos...I didn't even get to half throttle and she wanted to take off on me...hurt the back of my legs a little holding it back...planes got a lot of power/torque. Probably barely be at full throttle with this thing....as for weight and balance. It's already nose heavy with no weights in the front and the 2 lipos behind the firewalls but not by much. I also wrapped the rudder in matte black don't look too bad thinking about add another color to it, maybe red?

stegl

you did a pretty good job of shaping the foam nose. Was this white styrfoam ? as it looks like it. Have to agree, that it is a bit pointy.... but hey you got this far so should be easy to recarve less pointy. Passed up on a pair of Robart gear like yours for $70 when I bought the kit.... kinda kicking my butt but did pickup some very light HK aluminum gear for about half that so will see how they work out. A bit on the long side but then again I will have good prop clearance. I have to agree with a past post on the control horn plate being a bit out of place so will use their idea and sink some wooden dowl into the flaps , ailerons , elevator and wood screw on the control horns from below . The copy of my nosepiece is looking good but will be layering a bit more glass to build up thicker. I am making it a bit longer so that the user can trim to fit. Sure is a lotta work. I also like the finish you have done with your center wing inlets from the photos.

Got the broken retract wire fixed ...just have to silicone the solder job like they did. I also think part of the problem is that the silicon they did was not on very well as it just flaked off real easy so as a result was not doing its job plus the fact the wire is of poor quality.

badazzgti03

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The foam I used for the nose cone is the blue foam i forget the proper name for it but is light dense and easy to carve and sand. I will be re-working the nose cone shouldn't take that long. As for the gear, mine came with the wing section when i bought it, robart struts with e-flite e-retracts. By the way what is the best way to go by eliminating the dowels for the rudder and elevator push rods? I know they are long and trying to find a long push rod maybe hard or even have it bind...but i don't. I guess I'll have to re-move and re-build them...previous owner of the fuse really did not take good care of this thing, and poor job of assembling, kinda sad.

badazzgti03

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I figure i will post this a little history on the Mosquito

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLdVIKyx7RE

Dangaras

Use goop or weldbond from home depot. They both harden up but retain a significant amount of flex to avoid putting strain on the wire.

Dangaras

Take a look at the pw-rc site for oleos that are great for making up H-gear, of course you need 2 sets.

www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/cPath/137/products_id/3081


ps, some examples..

stegl

Yes ... Thanks. Already have those on the drawing board. Will need some drastic alterations for the double legs and wheel to retract into the retract bay as it now stands. This is where true kits excell is that you can make the changes needed to make things work as you go along. The angle of the retract opening in the plywood needs to be changed as the two legs and the wheel needs about 23 to 25 mm width in room to work. Maybe next winter as I want to get this bird flying first. I went with the diamond nobby tires as well. Your cowl looks a bit different than what I have here and the center of the landing gear to the mount looks centered better. I also noticed that you exhaust cover blisters are slightly different shape to them.

Before I hack my nacell wheel cover I will make up a copy for down the road. Have taken a pickture and will post later on how the retract plate is set up and try and show what I mean . As you can see the outer contour is not symetrical with the inner so to have a double leg gear makes it very difficult if not almost impossible.
Thanks for the picks.

Also plan on making a more scale tailwheel rather than the dorky wire system they have. Won't be retract at this time but more in line with the scale one. That's the plan anyways.

As I have mentioned before too bad the fibreglass center section had not been built up wood .... if it had ; I am sure it could have been built
much lighter .

And Bedazz in reference to the push rods ; my box had some real nice carbon fibre 1/4 inch pushrods which I will use for the elevator but am using pull-pull cables for the rudder/tailwheel control.

badazzgti03

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awesome!!! good thinking on them push rods

Dangaras

No probs. I have a BH mozzie, a little smaller but I had lots of 'fun' with the dremmel to make the retracts fit...

Still working on doors...

P.S. dremmel, knife, blood, glue, %&$&*++!!, knife, bandaid, dremmel, glue, blood...... You get the idea.......

stegl

The PS sounds like my effort. This is not going to be a cheap airplane when the "dust" settles for sure, but then when installing quality components it never is. Having a bit of fun so far with the "redesigning" if you want to call it that. Kind of like a "BIG Challenge".

Afternoon March 19th

Well got most of the hacking done for my Esc's in the wing. Just have to cut some mounting ply out so I can screw them down. When done I will add a photo. Got the first replacement nosepiece done. Looks good but will need primer. Its a little oversize when pushed up to the nose but did that on purpose so that end user can cut to fit in case the fuse is not exactly right on and the same as mine. Pilot is done and will mount him when fuse is finished and ready for the canopy. have to string the pull-pull rudder hookup. More scale like tailwheel is done; just have to get it mounted to the shaft that goes up to the rudder like the original wire one. Doesn't look too shabby at all . Sorry my picture taking to keep up with the build is rather slow.

Dangaras

Yes, those tend to be my most valued models...

cathurga

LOL Dangaras, I see myself in your "dremmel, knife, blood, glue, %&$&*++!!, knife, bandaid, dremmel, glue, blood" scenario....worst injury to date was a snapped 2mm drill bit that went straight through my finger nail and exited the fleshy tip of my finger. Fortunately my reactions were so quick that I retracted the drill in a split second otherwise I would never have got it out.....lot of blood, swearing and a little bit of vomit...

You guys are doing a great job with the Mossies, and I am embarrased to say that I have made little progress. My spinners are on their way now, and while they are in the post, I am going to try my hand at cutting down these 16x10x3 props, ready for the arrival of the spinners. I am also a little unhappy with the weight they are, I am told they are 190g each!! and silly me, I epoxied a whole bunch of weights into the nose to get the plane to balance. Now I am going to have heavier props, heavier spinners...so it is going to be viciously nose heavy I believe. I am also working on a set of oleo dual struts which will increase cg weight shift when retracted, but will pull her nose heavy when deployed. I have a pair of 100A ESC's forward of the CG and they are certainly overkill when the total amp draw on the source (battery) side is a total of around 60-65A (or 40A per side MAX) so I will replace the heavy 100A units, with a pair of 60A which are lighter. I may have to rethink the layout of my electrics in the wing section.....or I am going to have to find a way to remove all the lead up front. I am happy with the other aspects of the plane and I am hoping that once I have all the mods done, it will be a reliable, great flier.
I have no objection to modding ANY plane. I love the 'engineering' side of this hobby as much as the flying.....which is a good thing because we ALL undoubtedly spend more time tinkering than we do flying..!

Keep up the good work lads, we need to make sure there are a few good examples of flying mossies for the forseeable future. We will get to the day where we are comparing pics of them in the sky, rather than on the bench!.

Dangaras

badazzgti03

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I tend to always cut myself when i replace a new exacto blade like i did last night. But anyways I did more work on shaping the nose cone and got a few pics to show. check em out!!!

Dangaras

Ahhhh, too pointy! I don't think you want a replica of a 1950's bra!

Unless you are going for the glass nosed bomber version?

stegl

Cathurga: weighed my H9 P51 spinners and they came out to 86 gms each with lightened backplates and pretty much a perfect fit for 13x8 APC E props. Did they lighten the backplate on the ones that you received. That can make a BIG diference. You are right about spending time in the air rather than on the bench....Lol.

Badazz: If I may make a suggestion to get the point off the blue foam nose... try choping 1/2 to 5/8ths inch off the tip and then roudiung the edges to keep it more blunt and don't taper it . I think what is happening is that you may be tapering to a point each time. What do you think ? " 50's Pointy bra " Like that ...

Finished my first glass replacement nose but needs final trim to fit; in case fuses are a bit out. Has been sanded outside and ready for prime but would leave that until trimmed. It needs the inside ply ring yet but builder does that. will get a picture of that later.

Have added a couple of more pics to show how I mount the cowls with no screws with inside ring; using either 3 or 4 2-56 socket head screws and t-nuts in the backside of firewall. Cowl is mounted after motors are installed and plugged correctly into the ESC for correct rotation.

To do....The cowl ring is centered and bolted onto the firewall and then I mount the cowls. When I am happy with everything then I tack glue with 5 minute epoxy one at a time and hold it in position to make sure it doesn't shift; when set do the next one After setup I do a final glue with microbaloons and 15 or 30 minute epoxy mix. DON'T FORGET THE SARAN WRAP OR YOU WILL HAVE A PERMANENT FIX !!!!

stegl

Couple of pics on how I latch the nosecone on. Twist and turn and one screw on the bottom to lock in. There is enough room to handle Two 6S 4000 mah lipos in the nose. Do have to insert one at a time though. Don't think I will have " add lead up front issue" .

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

I'm going to still work on the nose cone...really don't want a rounded tip too much. By the way Stegl i love the way you mounted the nose cone man as well as the cowls, looks great!!!

stegl

Oh , I have lots of little things up my sleeve yet. You were commenting about how the previous owner did things on yours..... suggestion... why not do a complete sanding and then select the similiar flat paints you would like to go with and then start from scratch painting but following the the current scheme . The roundels decals are available from Hobby King and probably elsewhere. They have almost the exact same size to fit.

badazzgti03

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awesome, thanks for letting me know about the decals. I'll be looking into that. As for the struts, I was thinking about making my own as well...what size length oleo struts would I have to get?? I great at soldering and welding too . I'm going to be fiberglassing the nose cone this week with some epoxy resin, I really never used epoxy to fiberglass before..I always used fiberglass resin. how much alcohol should i add to the resin to thin it out fr the nose cone..any ideas?

david polley

Badazzgti03,

Tower Hobbies (USA)carries "Major Decals" pressure sensitive "peal and apply" British WW II decal kit that I have been using on my mosquitos...They cost $9.25 per sheet...fuel proof and look great on the mossie...This sheet is right size for the CMP mosquito...

David

stegl

I ordered the RCAF but RAF pretty much the same from Hobby King for 1.99 plus mailing. Peel and apply.

I usually add about 10% methyl hydrate ( alcohol) to the epoxy after it is mixed well. wicks into the cloth eazier but evaporates quickly so you may have to add as you go. Make sure it is 99.9% pure as that is how it usually comes and always make sure container is caped well as it absorbs moisture like a sponge ! I like using Z-epoxy by Pacer as it sands fairly eazy and it is a 50-50 mix as some are 75-25 mix or other combinations and not familiar just how they are for thinning or sanding.

badazzgti03

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on the Z-poxy would the 5-min or 30 min be better??

stegl

Sorry I should have been more specific ....If you use the Xepoxy .. it should be their finishing resin... as the 5,15 or 30 minute dries too soft and would be probably hard to sand. They are mainly for gluing parts together. A lot of the "pros" use this method and it does go a long way if not wasted by mixing too much at a time. You can always mix more but can't "unmix" it ; if you know what I mean....