FinnSpeed

I agree with you that SJ-Propo is most probably the manufacturer of all the ESCs you suggest and the well known companies are their OEM customers. I just don't see any evidence that they are the original designer as well but they could be of course. Which one of the various brands they manufacture appeared first?

I happen to know a lot about electronics manufacturing and design. Altering many details of the production between different OEM brands does not make any sense but changing a FET type between production runs is quick and easy, just as placing a different sticker on top. It takes about two minutes for an operator to switch a reel into the pick and place machine, that's all. Thus I'm positive they can and also do that if they can make their OEM customers happy by doing it. Naturally this requires some clever management to keep the slightly different PC-Boards in the correct places but it is certainly not too difficult or impossible. Also the price margins of these things are such that the cost of making that alteration is not too prohibitive.

Here I tend to agree with you in that the less well known brand versions are most probably identical except the sticker of course. But if you take the O.S. or Futaba that can handle the full load without becoming hot you cannot avoid the thought that the heatsink and fan in the others are either just decoration and dead weight (= makes no sense whatsoever) or they are really required to keep the cheaper FETs cool.

DrMotor

The comments on this forum:
http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/speed-controllers-escs-regulators/73104-os-escs.html
O.S OCA-1100HV 100Amp 50V ESC
Paulo uk: "Been sold under other names a long time, so same ESC, new label as Megapower, Hawk Fusion, SJ Propo, Robbe Roxxy (and now OS and Futaba)"

-strongly suggests that the SJ Propo, Megapower, and Hawk Fusion versions appeared first. And then after a considerable time,the OS and Futaba copies appeared.

DrMotor

del -same msg

Rendegade

Anyway, back to the real world for a second...

How is everyone setting their brake percentage? I've not seen anything about it in the OCP-1 controller.

Help?

Silent-AV8R

Step #8 in the OCP-1 manual. Set the airbrake type slow/normal/fast or value from 5% to 100%

use the up/down key to scroll once in that menu until you see the percentage numbers then increase/decrease as desired. Make sure to store the new settings in the ESC (step 17)

On my Plettenberg Advance I am running 65% brake. Seems to be perfect for my Abbra. Steve Hannah is running the same 65% in his Pletty/Episode.

Henning

DrMotor:
Can you please post a link to a «no name» ESC that it’s the same as the OS/Futaba 100A ESC? Maybe I have not done enough googling or read all your post good enough but I can’t find it. I have found the one with the integrated fan. The one with the fan/ heat sink is in my opinion unnecessary heavy for a F3A model.
If the one with the fan/heat sink has the same quality as OS/Futaba I wonder way they supply them with a fan? I have 450+ flights on the Futaba 100A ESC and have run it up to 110 amps (just to test it) without any heat issues.



Thanks,
Henning

Rune

possible to remove the fan??

Henning

Rune: the fan is at least not necessary in the temperatures we have!

The fan can be removed but not sure of the heat sink. Singapore Hobby has the one branded Tahmazo. This version has a built in BEC. The OS/Futaba has an Opto filter (Non BEC).

http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/29859

DrMotor

This is a misprint. The Tahmazo 120Adoes NOThave BEC.
If you look further down the page http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/29859
It states: "BEC voltage and current: N/A"
-They just got confused,because the models <70A do have BEC -and they mistakenly added the same phrase for the 120A ESC.

If you look at the Tahmazo website http://www.tahmazo.com/products/catalogue/5 -Itdoes not mentionBEC.
If you look at the Tahmazo ESC manual http://www.tahmazo.com/files/ProCMaxManualv2.pdf
-It statesno BEC for the 75A and 120AESC. -The smaller ones DO have S-BEC.

Obviously, the Tahmazo 120A ESC is identical to all the others-if they do not have BEC, thenthe Tahmazo will not.

Henning

You are obviously the expert when it comes to ESCs. Can the heat sink be removed?

DrMotor

I would not call myself an "expert" -however, I am curious. I have certainly become more expert in ESC's,by examining which factories make different ones, and by looking at the programming of many of the Sunray -manufactured ESC's - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11215832/tm.htm
However, I am a few thousand miles away from Tahmazo.
Why not emailTahmazo and ask them - http://www.tahmazo.com/contact ?

The other possibility is to contact LogicRC in the UK, as they sell both the 100A and the 120A versions of this ESC
http://www.logicrc.com/?s=c:0,c:50,c...0-30-20-10&p=5

Cheers mate

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Any more thoughts/updates on these ESC's? I want something other than CC controllers for my new 2M. This is going to work with a Pletty Advance.

Are there any substantial differences between the 1100 and the 170?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBYTZ&P=ML

woodie

Joe, I have been running the Futaba branded version of the 1100 and the Pletty Advance for many months now with no issues. Smooth, no heating problems, runs exactly the same no matter what temp, etc. I have not run the 70A version but looking at the specs, I would hesitate to use it even tho I probably operate within the max limits but it would be very close using the Advance and a Falcon 21x13.5 prop. Several guys around here have been running the OS labeled one with no issues either. Last weekend we were flying in +100F at Oakdale and I had no issues with cooling.

I really like the smooth/linear response. And the anti-spark connection is nice also tho it has nothing to do with the overall performance.

Woodie

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks Woodie. I agree it's best not to run at the limits of the ESC. I'll look into the OS.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Just ordered the OS version (O.S. OCA1100HV) and the programmer. Plan to use it with a Neu F3A motor. Just wonder if anybody can share the settings for the following three parameters:

timing (0-3 degrees?)
motor pole no
gear ratio

can773

My Feedback: (1)

I would suggest the Jeti Spin 99, with the Peter Hasse lightweight heatsink for the Pletty Advance. The lightweight heatsink is 25euro shipped, and drops the ESC to 89g. Much lighter than the OS, and the Jeti works great with the Advance. My Spin with the light heatsink runs about 10-15 degrees C above ambient temp.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I just got the OS. Nice looking unit. Feels heavy at first, but scale says it weighs the same as the ICE 80HV. Can't beat the Tower Hobbies deal and 3-pay.

cmoulder

Joe, did you get the programming box? Makes it a lot easier for set-up.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Yes. Hopefully it won't be too much longer before I get that new bird ready for flight and can start playing with the ESC.

OhD

I've been very happy with the OS version of this ESC. It has the best transition from brake to idle of all that I have flown. The key is that it will start at idle where most ESCs need to be jogged to a higher rpm to start and then they will idle at the lower desired rpm. Not good during landing.

However, you can't get them repaired, even if the only damage is to the 3 big capacitors mounted on the board. The rest of the unit appears indestructible. So I set out to buy some Rubycon 63V 270 μf capacitors but so far it looks like it will cost $100 due to minimum order rules. Anyone else need to replace capacitors? If I could sell a few sets I'd go ahead and place the order.

Jim O

jonlowe

My Feedback: (12)

Jim,
Order 1189-1510-ND from DigiKey. Same brand, same series (ZLx), same exact specs, just a slightly smaller form factor. About $0.83 apiece! I used these on a slightly crash damaged OS ESC.

Edit: Well actually, these are rated for slightly higher ripple, a good thing!

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

I got mine as well and found the main battery wires are relatively short, compared to ESCs of other brands. Has anybody soldered some extension wires?

jonlowe

My Feedback: (12)

I've been told that, in general, it is a good idea to keep all wires as short as possible to reduce voltage ripple which stresses the ESC. The big capacitors are there to handle ripple but they have their limits. Wire length and the batteries themselves can all generate more ripple. Between the cables on the batteries, and the ones on the OS controller, I've found them long enough. Wire of that size is also heavy, another reason to keep them short.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I did not think they were short, but I guess that's a subjective statement.

What is with the capacitor issues??

jonlowe

My Feedback: (12)

I replaced them on a friends because of crash damage, and it sounds like Jim O's may be the same thing. Several of us are running them, and they have all been bulletproof unless you run them into the ground!

BTW, they are a ***** to replace. The circuit board is very thick as it must have a layer inside acting as a heat sink. I had to turn up my soldering station pretty high to melt the solder enough to get the broken caps out and new ones in. Without a decent soldering station, the job would have been impossible. A separate desoldering iron I've got wouldn't even put a dent in the solder.