Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay pattnut,
My model came out nose heavy and I will be removing the spinners and going with spinner nuts. I'm happy to see your model flew well...do you remember your all up flying weight and if it came out nose or tail heavy?

I too flew along side the A26K's in South East Asia...but I flew Snakes in support. Outstanding aircraft for sure and looked awesome on a gun run.

Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Lol,ok. Be proud your a keyboard flyer. And for your info, I've been around since this place was called rconline.com

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I see you joined 3/10/2010, boy time fly's by (pun intended)[:@]

pattnut

Bob,
A friend assembled/owned the '26 I flew. I was merely the maiden/test/trim pilot, so I can't tell you any tech details. Sorry.

Old Dawg

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Main Landing Gear Instillation,

The first thing I did was try to fit the main landing gear block with the wire legs. They would not go on with out a little trimming and once you do a little rat tail file work, the wood blocks slip on ok. I then used the hardware supplied and screwed in the hold down straps to the bottom of the blocks. I then looked at the supplied top plywood and decided to make new ones out of 1/4" (.240" light ply) light plywood. I used the kit supplied plywood tops on another VQ fixed geared model and found the supplied plywood used in the fixed landing gear VQ uses is not strong enough. So I went with 1/4" light ply...and it will give you the added strength needed. Next I screwed in the light ply to my landing gear block, using thin CA to add to the strength. I didn't use epoxy as the instructions stated...Thin CA is easier to pull apart then epoxy...just in case I screw up a landing and need to make repairs. The instructions state to place a plastic piece over the ply wood plate, then screw the block, light ply wood and plastic piece through everything and onto the landing gear railings. My kit was missing the plastic pieces called out for, as well as the drop tanks, but the model will fly just fine with out them and with any luck, Hobby People will make it right.

My landing gear take a beating, so I do need the added strength and the VQ's way of installing fixed gear is quite a bit different then most ARF models I've built.

(My P-51B Red Tailed VQ ARF has the same set up, and I used the kit supplied hardware and plywood. The ply wood top plate cracked, after 30 or so flights and I replaced it with 1/4" light ply-like I did with the A26K)

Next I installed the landing gear onto the rails of the nacelle. Be sure to move the main gear block as far aft as it will go (the instructions show the wire the wheels fit on faces outboard). If you do not do so, your landing gear leg will be lined up right on the CG. As it is, the main gear, with the landing gear block slid as far aft as it will go, will only be about 1" (one inch) aft of the CG (if you look at the pictures, you will see a thin blue line-this thin blue line is the CG of the model). This may not be far aft enough, but flight test will tell me. Right now, when I put the model on the ground, and push the tail down, the tail does not reset onto the nose gear...you need to physically put then nose down. Once down the nose will stay down...but I wonder if this will work. If I turn the landing gear blocks around, I can get better then 2" aft of the CG, with the landing gear leg. Time will tell, but for now I'm going to keep it the way the instructions call out for. The instructions do not explain this to you at all and are quite vague, about how far aft the main landing gear should sit, in the nacelle. You may need to do a little trimming to get a good fit with your bottom nacelle fairing, so check it out and make sure you get a good fit. Before I installed the engine nacelle plastic fairings, I reset both my fuel tanks with foam and made sure no fuel tank touched any wood.

After I had my main landing gear installed, I reassembled the nacelles and cowls.

After everything was said and finished...I flipped the props, and found that my Port engine has lost some compression. I may need to get a new cylinder sleeve, piston and rod for my left engine, but I will not know for sure until I run both engines again and see what RPM's I get. If the left engine is way off...I'll rebuild the engine (!#$%& that's a new engine too).

Tomorrow I will run then engines and let you know what I get. Right now the weather sucks...so no flying in the next couple of days.

Happy New Years,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Up Date,
I've not flown the model and did my best to get both engines to run properly. My starboard engine runs sweet, but I was not able to get the port engine to run for very long, with out stopping. I returned the engine for repair and I will mount that engine and see what I get.

I also went over to DuBro S8 fuel tanks with 1/8" brass fuel lines. I did redo my tanks with foam...but I still have a question about the kit supplied fuel tanks.

I also changed the fixed gear around and by removing the fixed landing gear, turning them 180 deg.'s and placing them on the other side, I got the model to stand up on all three gear legs, even when set on its tail. I'm about 1.7" aft of the C.G. with my gear legs.

I do hope to get this model in the air soon and will not fly her until I get to good running engines.

Soft Landing Always,
Bobby of Maui

P-39 fan

Hi Bob, I have been enjoying your build of the VQ A-26 and hope that the maiden flight is a success. I have 3 VQ models, the P-39, P-40 and the P-51B. They are all electric and I have been extremely pleased with the quality, detail and flight performance of the planes. The P-39 has 62 flights on it in only 2 1/2 months and it looks like it did on it's maiden flight. I was sorry to hear that Gizmo had such a bad option of the VQ Zero. I have had no issues with cracked plastic on my planes.Perhaps VQ has made upgrades to thier product line since Gizmo's Zero. You did the right thing about delaying the first flight untill you get both engines runningproperly.After 45 years of flying scale twins, I got realgood at making single engine landings!!!

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hi Guys,
Well I had my first flight on Sunday and the model is still in one piece. The model with two .46's is so over kill, its crazy. Two O.S. .25's would be enough to fly this airframe and a pair of .32's or 35's would be real fun. Two .46's gets it close to 85kts straight and level, and it gets airborne quickly on take off. The model will accelerated in speed just after take off...with a 45 deg. departure angle... : ) I found that about 2/3rds throttle the engines found a sweet spot together and the model flew like it was on rails. Very solid in the air and I felt comfortable flying this model, with in a couple of minutes, on the first flight. Great presentation in the air and the sound was sweet music...especially when the engines hit their rpm sweet spot together. Good aileron and elevator response at all speeds...and I flew her on low-dual rates. This is where I liked it best and do keep your speed up...and fly her all the way down to touch down...with a bit of speed. My first landing was acceptable, but only with the understanding that nothing broke. It was almost embarrassing...but no damage... : )

I'm not happy with the T.T. .46's and I ordered two Perry carbs for these engines. I can't seem to get them to run rich enough, so I can lean them. I've the needle valves out 8 turns and I still feel lean to me. I've changed the fuel tank configuration three times, including the fuel tanks and sent one new engine back for inspection/repair. I've added foam all around the fuel tanks and they are foam supported, both fore and aft. They do sit a bit low...but not that low. To get the fuel tanks high enough, I would have to cut into the leading edge of the wing. What I am doing now is ordering two #1200 Perry Carbs and I hope this cures my engine issues. I've run these engines quite a bit at home...trying to get them to run better. I've used Perry carburetors for years and understand how to tune them properly. If not, then I'm going to install two .32's I have on hand (if the model lasts that long). The speed and vertical performance of this model is outstanding with the .46's. I will not stop until I get two solid dependable engines for this model. I was not overly happy with the T.T. .46's, but after a couple of months...I did the best I was able to with the engines, and let her fly.

Its a very good flying model...but I'm not real thrilled with the covering material. The plastic parts need a serious up grade and will not last, like fiberglass will. I have developed cracks in the plastic in a couple of places already. Thick CA glue seemed to work for me with the cracks (I did stop drill each crack) and I let the glue cure fully before I handled the model.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Hi Bob,

Please understand I was in no way attacking you. What you discribed with the plastic parts and covering is what occurred with the Zero which was a real mess. It really bothers me when a company puts out a product
that could be very nice but shortcuts on materials that are not much more expensive that what is supplied. CMP was really good at that. I would gladly spend a little more for a good flying well built plane.

In the past I built several Lanier kits because they flew well but I came to really dispise the ABS parts they furnished. Most of the parts cracked or were flimsey.........might be why they(the company) were sold and
re-organized.

I am glad your flight was successfull and hope you overcome your engine problems . I have had a few exciting flights when one engine quits on full power takeoffs. I have a pair of TT 36's that are very nice
powerful and reliable engines, about as powerful as most 40-46 size engines. I also have a pair of OS 32F's on a twinstar, real screamers if you can find them. I am a little surprised that the 46's are giving you problems
usually those are good reliable engines.

Good Luck!

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Gizmo,
No offense taken and I understand the problems you experienced. I just had a real need to fly an A26K and VQ had the only one for sale I could find-ARF or KIT.

I called Connley, the gentleman that sells Perry carburetors and he gave me the information I needed to fix the problem I'm having with the T.T Pro.46's. He stated that the carb opening was to big on the stock carburetors and does not draw fuel as efficient as it could (this is done for getting more fuel into the engine...ie; more power). He stated if I used a smaller carb opening, the engine would draw the fuel better (though I may lose a bit on the top end) and be able to get a proper rich setting, for tuning the engines. He is sending me two carbs, that have a mounting O.D. of .515 that I need for the T.T. Pro .46. but a smaller opening/intake on the carb. He was aware of my problem and he stated this would fix the lean running engines. The new carbs should be here in a week to ten days...then I'll need to install them and set up the throttles. Once you set up the Perry carb properly...the engines will idle so low it will amaze you. Great carburetors and he gave me a packaged deal buying two of them.

When I mounted the T.T. Pro .46's on my small Ugly Stick to break in, they ran perfect...but the fuel tanks were centered on line, with the carburetor. So I was able to run two hours on each engine, prior to installing them on the A26K. On the A26K, the fuel tanks sit a bit lower then I like and the carburetors do not pull enough fuel to run rich. If your flying inverted 4-stroke engines...like this model was designed to fly with, you would have no problems at all.

This has been a nice build for me, with several build issues and so far, it looks like I'll get them all worked out. This is a superb flying model and even if I lose a bit on the top end with the Perry carbs, who cares. This model is so over powered now and fast...I will work out just fine.

If I really get pi**ed off at the covering, I will recover the model with Top Flight Super Monokote. My VQ P-51B covering is not the same as with the A26K. For some reason, some colors VQ uses are a better coving then others...but just a guess on my end. It is sad in a way, because the VQ models all fly really nice, its just the plastic and covering that is not up to par.

I built several Lanier plastic ARF's back in the 70's for a buddy of mine. The Lanier models all flew really nice, but the plastic would crack and after 50 flights, the model was trash. But remember...all we had for ARF's back in those day's was Lanier. I did build a DuBro .60 size float plane and flew it for quite a while. This was my first attempt at flying a flying boat...and it was fun. I was in collage then, on the main land and I ended up passing the model on to a buddy of mine.

The .32's I have are made by MECOA and are as strong as the O.S. .32's if not a bit stronger. I've three of these little jewels, and I've had them in three models. My last model was a three engine .40 size ugly stick...and this model was a true rocket ship in the air. It was so fast, it would pass all the .40 racers in the club! True I had three engines, but the model only weighted in at 7#. The only problem I had was trying to slow the model down enough to land it. Even a dead slow idle, with all three engines...the model flew so fast, I had a lot of difficulty getting it down. Usually I waited until I lost an engine...or two, then landed. What I ended up doing is installing three blade props...this did the trick and I was able to land the model with out any speed issues.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Good luck with your progress. I took the Twin star out and ran the engines and deep-cleaned the plane and engines. The weather here has been normal spring weather, wind, snow, rain, gropple and thunder and lightning all yesterday. Just waiting for a good day to go to the field and get rid of some cobwebs. Keep us apprised of your progress.

Black Drape

Hey Gizmo

Are we going to have another Wings for Wishes meet this year at Faragut? Had a great time last year, even though I only got one flight in because of the wind.I had the little Bronco that flew fairly early in the day.

Bobby
Hope you get your engines figured out, I am just putting the finishing touches on a Wing MFG. A26. Should have it ready to try out next weekend. Like Gizmo said, it would be really nice if winter would go away.

Ron

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Hi Ron,

I didn't go last year, the Organizer was not allowed to re -join the club there by a huge margin due to his numerous problems with everyone. He went off and formed his own club(and four others).
I am not a member of that club so all is second hand info.. I do know the guy and do not get along with him also.
Sorry

Black Drape

Hey Gizmo

Darn! that's too bad. We had a good time, and it is for a very good cause. What I do is just avoid those that I don't care to associate with and enjoy everyone else. That way you get to meet a lot of nice people and see a lot of nice models. And there were some nice models there. Well if you reconsider, maybe I will see you there this year.

Ron

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I also avoid problems as best I can. I really don't know what the guy is planning? I have known the guy for years and make a point not to be involved with him, keeps me sane!

Black Drape

Hey

Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure I know who you are talking about and can't say as I blame you.How do the different clubs interact? I was under the impression that Faragut was state owned and anyone who was AMA could fly there. I have an ESM BF110 that I would love to try and fly off of that grass field. It is real scary off of our mats.
Ron

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Black Drape,
Do you know where I could get a Wing MFG. A26 kit...?
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Black Drape

Hey Bobby

Sorry, Wing is out of business. I called them and they no longer make the kit and there are no parts available. I just lucked out and was given the one I have. I built one years ago. The kit that was given to me was missing the plans and the beds for the foam wings. Luckily I still had the plans and found a company on line that was able to make new cores for the wing. The original kit is a short kit. All you get is the plans, the plastic parts and the foam wing cores. It is an easy build but the plastic cowls and canopies might be a problem. Eureka Aircraft will cut the cores for you and I can get the plans copied. Let me know if you are interested.

Ron

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Farragut is a State Park and yes anyone can fly. The field requires scheduling and the event you went to was already sanctioned by AMA for another club who had a long standing event(about 20 years) . The guy who ran the event you went to back-doored
That club who he professed to dislike, a lot.
The park has a policy of "First come first served" and allowed the event you went to because it was scheduled first..........

Totally a bunch of CRAP!

Anyway we have hijacked Bobs thing so best cease this.........

Black Drape

Hey Gizmo

I agree. Might send you a pm. Sorry Bobby we're done.

Ron

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hi Guys,
Well, my Perry carbs came from Connley and I managed to get them installed and set. It took a while for me to figure the mixture out on the idle, but once I leaned the engine idle enough, both engines ran true. The Perry carbs Connley sold me worked perfectly. I was able to get the carbs rich enough, to lean properly and now feel much more at ease with the engines. The Perry carb has a idle mixture ring, right a the base of the carb, where the needle valve goes in. You usually only have to move the mixture ring one or two notch's lean or rich to get a solid idle...but not with this engine. I needed to lean the idle mixture a full five notches lean to get the engines to idle...and once set...would idle so slow it amazed me.

I've charged up the batteries and if the wind is down tomorrow morning...I'll fly.

The plastic wing tips are taking a beating...and have gotten real brittle. I may remove them and make a set out of balsa and light ply, when they finally give up the ghost, and become un-flyable.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Good Luck, sounds like you are ready to go!

Rowdy_b64

Hi Bob,
I've been ready your posts intently after ordering one of these (First Twin nitro) and I must say, I'm starting to regret ordering it now I have got down to the part of the rubbish plastic parts!
I was really enthusiastic about it .. looking forward to the build ...And now I am a little down over the whole thing ...
I really don't want broken plastic bits ... Could they be strengthened by a coat of Polyurethane (maybe inside the wingtips as well) ??
Maybe just cancel the order!!
Thoughts greatly appreciated

Cheers
Rod

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Rowdy_b64,
Sorry for such a late reply, but now that your into the last part of the build, you need the most patience. The plastic parts suck...no question about it and for the price of the kit, the plastic parts should be made out of light weight fiberglass.

You need to take your time and make sure you cut only what is needed to fit the parts. Do leave as much as possible on the plastic parts, and look at my photo's and brace the nacelle plastic where I did. The wing tips are no where near strong enough to handle the job and my left one, kept breaking and cracking.

I went to purchase new wing tips, but found the cost was $20.00 for the cheap plastic wing tips (are you kidding me!!!). I ended up making my own wing tips. I made half wing tips out of 3/8" light ply and balsa, and painting them black.

I also am not a fan of the covering material...it sucks too. VQ uses some kind of shelf paper type covering and it cracks real easy...so be careful how you handle the model.

As noted in the build, I tossed out the electric retracts and installed the fixed gear. The fixed nose gear wire is to short...so I had to add a longer nose wheel landing gear wire. You want the model to sit level on the ground, or with one or two deg. nose up. That is what I ended up doing and now my take offs are more scale.

With a bit of work at the factory @ VQ, they could have a much better model. The plastic parts are no where near up to the job, the covering cracks very easily and is marked up and destroyed by CA glue, plus the electrical landing gear is a joke. The electric landing gear latterly fell apart before I ever flew the model and with only a couple of dozen cycles.

BUT...if your patient with the plastic parts they will fit (almost) and you can use clear plastic wrapping tape to recover the broken covering. The model does look good in the air and a good pair of .32's is enough power to fly this model with authority. My kit stated to use .40~.46's and I installed a pair of .46's. Way to much power then needed and now I use the model for fun fly races...and even with fixed gear...is as fast as .40 powered race planes.

This is my last VQ model...but for you my friend...take your time on the plastic parts and you will have a flyable model. It handles well in the air and will not bite you there...but keep you speed up and fly her down to the runway.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Hi Bobby,

You have done what is was unwilling to do, complete a VQ model! It is such a shame for the mfg. to go thru the effort and make a 50% arf. You had the same issues that I did with the Zero and I sent it on it's way before putting much into it.
I really like the A-26 and would be glad to purchase it if it was a quality kit.

Best of luck!

Bruce