streetsquid

Cruiser133
Thank you for the kind words and support and sollie thank you, you were able to respond quicker than I could, funny how my employer has 260,000 employees around the globe, and they still can't understand why I would want to go to an RC Tank forum during business hours - yes I do use an Iwata gravity feed internal mix dual action brush, see post #180 above for the particulars. I actually have 5 airbrushes, but this has become my go to brush and the others for the most part stay tucked away in there cases.


Street

streetsquid

NASCAR,
Thanks man! But this isnt about wanting to improve your T1 - just do it! You're a model builder, so model! And if you need help you know where I live and you know there is always room on my bench for any project you need help with. So no excuses, quit talkin about it and get working on it, and while your at post some picture for once would ya!


Squid

streetsquid

Ok class,
So before we get hot n heavy into some more airbrushing, I did needed to add one small detail. On just about every build I do, I like to encorporate our club logo. Now i realize there were no Sturms in the North African campaign, but this is more about flying the club colors than it is about historical accuracy, besides you shoudl all know by now i have no problem taking some creative or artistic license and make no apologies for doung so!

Now just in case some of you hadn't picked up on it or even cared enough to notice, our club name and logo are a play on the original DAK (Deutsche Afrika Korps), Rommel's boys from North Africa during WWII. Because like them we are in the desert we thought theme fit perfectly so we named our club DAK (Desert Armor Korps) and used a slightly modified logo. The original was a palm tree with a swastika superimposed over the trunk. We simply replaced the swastika with a silouette of Arizona.

Traditionally I have printed off my avatar from htis forum, sized it on a copier, and then cut out the logo from a peice of making tape and used that to mask and spray onto my tanks. Well last year one of our club members got some metal logo lasercut at his work and I ended up with a couple of sizes, so this is my first chance to see how well the smallest one will work.

I thinned some Tamiya Deck Tan (XF-55) and shot it at low pressure through the metal mask which surrounded by masking tape to avoid any over spray. Obviously it looks stark now but will get blended in and look more subdued in the nest couple of painting steps

streetsquid

Ok guys,
This might be the post where I lose some of you. I've said from the begining my tanks are almost always on the lighter side and for this i wanted somehting really dark almost black. So here it is with the first rounds of heavy post shading.

Tamiya Red Brown (XF-64) mixed with Tamiya flat black (XF-1) I have several different applications and for added variation it adjusted the mix ratio. I first put on a coat of approximately 80% brown mixed with 20% black, then I mixed another darker batch that had more black added about 60%brown, 40% black).

These were thinned heavily (about 80-85% thinner) esentially making these a transparent wash that was airbrushed in multiple layers at about 15psi. The idea here was to mute the colors and make this thing look like it's old and been through hell, but I wanted to maintain the transparency so you could still see the individual camo colors underneath

It's not done but getting closer, still doesn't look blotchy enough for me! Then we gotta get dusty and dirty! But by all means, feedback, thoughts, criticism, ideas and suggestions not only welcomed but encouraged, I'm a big boy - hit me with it! (LOL)

Streetsquid

Panther F

Very nice work, but I am ready to see some tracks on the beast!

What did you say you have planned to install? I like the dusting effect very much as it takes a lot of nerve to cover over that sweet camo paint you laid down, but it will look even better out in the desert.














~ Jeff

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

You almost reached a Max level of darkness here. That logo template kicks butt huh!?!

streetsquid

Panther F,
Page 6 - posts #126 and #127 I have quiet a few pics with the tracks on when the beast was in primer. My plan is to use the original stock plastic tracks from Tamiya. And I'm using them for a couple of reasons;

One, I'm a firm believer that if you add the extra weight of metal tracks you open up a myriad of "other" upgrades that now become required and not optional. I for one do not like the added weight. Now metal wheels yes becasue that is not weight added directly to the gear boxes the same way the tracks do.

Two, These tracks are almost 7 years old and have never given me a single issue, I've never broken or thrown a track pin in 40+ battles they have seen action in. Plus these gear boxes are alos almost 7 years old and are a little long in the tooth, no need to disinigrate them now

Three, Because of their age these track have that perfect worn look that only comes with use and could not easily be duplicated.

Got a few more rounds to make this thing look really roached!


But just so you don't have to go back to page 6 (LOL)


Squid

streetsquid

edoubleaz,
Yes I do really like the metal mask, definitley beats hand cutting them out of tape, it's much faster and more consistent!

Not sure I've reached maximum level of darkness yet, still looks a lil' too brown for me, gonna actually add some straight black, and then start dusting it to give it a really blotchy and dirty feel. I definitely wanted to achieve dark and menacing (ala Phil's Flueger's KT)


Craig

Pah co chu puk

Beware the dark side...

Too much more and it will stand out and be a target on the desert sand down there

Fun thread.

nascardad88

BEAUTIFUL SQUID !!!

CCC2012

very nice......

streetsquid

Pah co chu Puk,
The Dark Side don't scare me - I don't mind standing out, and rarely do I hide on the DAK field. This will be another German Heavy IFA, Ethan and his lil green brigade of pea shooters don't scare me! I could paint this tank flourescent orange and it would not have an adverse affect on the outcome of any of our battles! But I might get some some strange looks! (LOL)

Streetsquid

streetsquid

Nascardad88, CCC2012,
Hey thanks guys it's finally starting to come together and look like somehting!

Squid

streetsquid

Alright guys,
So I've been doing a little work on some of the detail items. Most of these have simply been reconstituted from the original Tamiya Tiger I donor tank and have had everyhting from a few touch ups to a complete repaint.

Starting with the exhaust stacks. I had previously textured these to look pitted and rusty during the original build and they were already finished in a dark esspresso brown color. All I did was add some new layers of pastels to simulate rust, heat discoloration and some black exhaust soot around the top.


Street

streetsquid

Next came a few tools. I usually opt to leave most of the tools completely off, but in this case of added quite a few, but not in there "normal" location. I think this adds to the well used look of the tank. The dissaray and hap hazzard way things are stowed also helps to add visual interest. Once all the tools are put on, final weathering will be added to tie all the individual components together


Squid

streetsquid

Finally, I also added the foiliage tie downs made from thin copper wire annealed with a propane torch for added flexibility and a loosely hung tow cable.

The foilage hanger was threaded through the loops I had added earlier in the build, then colored with a few thing coats of Valejo "oily steel" acrylic paint. A final wash of black dulled it dwon while maintaing a slight mettalic sheen

I made the cable using the stock molded Tamiya ends and then used braided cord I found in the jewelry and beading section at the local craft store (Michael's) to make the length of cable. I soaked it in diluted white glue to make it somewhat stiff, hung it on the model while the glue was still wet and let it dry. By doing this the cord becomes stiff, yet flexible, can be bent into shape and will retain the shape you want. I added dry pigment powder to simulate rust, next with be some washes to give it an oily look.


Craig

CCC2012

damn thats a awesome mean looking tank!!

1sgt

Great looking Sturm. I do have to say though, that of the pics I have seen with the wire used to hold camo on was quit rigid and springy in appearence. It wouldn't have the sags that you built in. Belivev me though, you have created a masterpeice that I could only dream of doining. Thanks for sharing.


Jim

streetsquid

CCC2012,
Thank you! That is one of the simplest yet most perfect compliment I could get. I have said from the start I wanted this tank to look well used, but more than anyhting I wanted it to look dark and menacing. So if you think it looks mean, then I accomplished what I set out to do.


Not quite done with it but close....more to follow!

Squid

streetsquid

1sgt (Jim),
I agree with you and most of the photos I've seen also show the foliage retainers looking tight and taught. But I have seen 2 pics, one was a Jadgpanther, and the other was an Sdkfz 251 halftrack that were both pretty beat up and looked as if they had survived A LOT of frontline action, and both had loose or sagging foliage retainer wires. My only logical deduction would be one of two things.

1. This was a field application and the crew used something other than the "standard wire" or attachment method (if there was such a thing) and were not able to get it as taught as was usually seen.

2 Perhaps with use and age the wires became loose or stretched. I could easily get onboard with the idea of the wires loosing or stretching over time as they carried the weight of branches and brush as this heavy vehicle limbered among and vibrated. I think if that happened for a long period of time it only makes sense that the wire would loosen or stretch and then start to sag.

I could easily believe either explanation, but it was with the latter idea in mind that I decided not to pull the wire taught. I wanted this vehicle to look worn and beat up as if it had seen a lot of action, so I made a logical deduction and exercised some creative license, although I as I mentioned I have seen photographic support of this idea.

I greatly appreciate the kind words and thank you for making that observation, hopefully someone else will weigh in with their thoughts. But it was a decision that I made based on some historical evidence, and I don't think the wire looks horrible, so I'm happy with it!

Craig

1sgt

You know, additionally, the crew could have used the wires as a handhold or foothold causing the sags. Who knows. I felt bad to point out a possible inaccuracie on such a fine build, but I think you are correct in that in war, all is possible.

Jim

streetsquid

Hey Jim,
Thanks man! Please don't feel bad in the least. I'm no expert and I believe the only way we learn is to share ideas and to stay humble enough to isten to others and be open to other ideas and ways of thinking. I could be completely inaccurate and that's ok with me. I like the way they look and I appreciate your observation, I never take critisism, questions, or someone pointing out something as an attack or even negative, it's how I learn.

When I said I appreciated the observation, I was being truthful I really do appreciate it, it's what makes me think, and that what makes me a better modeler.

Never stop learning!

Squid

1sgt

Agreed.

Jim

sollie

Hey street, what can I say . Love it. The showel placement and the tow cabels looks great. I'm really looking fw to see this monster move about ( as in I hope you make a video) :-)

the dented exhaust shield look uber with all in place.

nascardad88

Squid, what can I say...it looks better in person then the pics !! It's awsome and looked killer next to the Tiger 1 yesterday, should have taken pics of the both of them. Your work as always is phenominal and I have become better at weathering by watching you "roach" them !!

Thanks man !!