BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
#251
RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Can anyone provide a link to a dummy 1/6 radial (or rotary) engine? I've read that Hanger 9 has one but I can't seem to locate it. I was hoping to not have to try to scratch build a 1/6 Gnome for my Thomas Morse Scout.
Thanks
Thanks
#254
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
For those of you following this thread, and thinking . . . "gee, that staining of the turtle deck sounds like a nice touch", be forewarned, it comes with a lot of extra (as I am finding out) work. Although Balsa USA says in the instruction manual that the Pup's turtle deck can be covered, painted or stained, there are many additional steps needed in order to allow a model with a "stained" turtle deck to be covered properly (see photos below).
1. With the deck stained, the side covering will no longer wrap around the fuselage. Triangle stock was added under the turtle deck to give the side covering something to stick to.
2. With the turtle deck stained, there are spaces between the back deck stringers with no place to anchor the covering. I ended up sanding down the stringers just a bit and adding a balsa strip into the grove. Once everything was "sanded to shape" I am hopeful that the fuselage is ready for the covering (which got here via UPS this morning).
1. With the deck stained, the side covering will no longer wrap around the fuselage. Triangle stock was added under the turtle deck to give the side covering something to stick to.
2. With the turtle deck stained, there are spaces between the back deck stringers with no place to anchor the covering. I ended up sanding down the stringers just a bit and adding a balsa strip into the grove. Once everything was "sanded to shape" I am hopeful that the fuselage is ready for the covering (which got here via UPS this morning).
#255
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Started the covering process. One of the first things I've been doing for years is putting a strip of covering along the leading edge of the control surfaces and then installing the hinges and using epoxy from the inside to cement them in place. It's a lot neater (for me at least) than doing the epoxy down the hinge slot cutout from the outside. Never had a hinge come loose.
At first I had the idea that I would follow the Balsa USA instruction manual and paint the blue/red stripes on the rudder and elevator, but decided to use Monokote. I'm happy with the way it turned out (first one to point out that the stripes are not completly uniform in width or exactly parallel no longer gets to follow the thread!).
Ended up having to make an "extension" to mount the tailwheel. Have no idea what my thought process was for the original design which was obviously not going to work.
Tru-Turn hub and adapter for the Saito 56 got here Friday. I now have Tru-Turn spinners/hubs on every plane I fly (OK, so it's only five planes). Great folks, great product.
At first I had the idea that I would follow the Balsa USA instruction manual and paint the blue/red stripes on the rudder and elevator, but decided to use Monokote. I'm happy with the way it turned out (first one to point out that the stripes are not completly uniform in width or exactly parallel no longer gets to follow the thread!).
Ended up having to make an "extension" to mount the tailwheel. Have no idea what my thought process was for the original design which was obviously not going to work.
Tru-Turn hub and adapter for the Saito 56 got here Friday. I now have Tru-Turn spinners/hubs on every plane I fly (OK, so it's only five planes). Great folks, great product.
#256
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Gary, I've been making some progress with the covering. I'll post a few pictures tonight. Very happy with the way it's coming out.
I've heard for years that Worldtex (Horrizon Hobby) and Solartex (Balsa USA) are the same product. If they are, you can't tell by my experience. I covered my Sig 1/5 scale Cub last year with Worldtex. Although I liked it, and it came out looking better than I can take credit for, covering the Pup with Solartex has been nothing short of a joy. Even though it would have been quite a waste of material, I wish I had ordered a roll of blue and a roll of red for the tail surfaces. Would have looked better as "fabric" rather than the Monokote "film."
And by the way, save yourself the extra shipping charges and when you order the Solartex, get two rolls of the Antique rather than just the instruction manual "recommended" one. Ask me how I know.
I've heard for years that Worldtex (Horrizon Hobby) and Solartex (Balsa USA) are the same product. If they are, you can't tell by my experience. I covered my Sig 1/5 scale Cub last year with Worldtex. Although I liked it, and it came out looking better than I can take credit for, covering the Pup with Solartex has been nothing short of a joy. Even though it would have been quite a waste of material, I wish I had ordered a roll of blue and a roll of red for the tail surfaces. Would have looked better as "fabric" rather than the Monokote "film."
And by the way, save yourself the extra shipping charges and when you order the Solartex, get two rolls of the Antique rather than just the instruction manual "recommended" one. Ask me how I know.
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
The Pup's wings have taken their rightful place along with the rest . . . not covered yet, but where they belong . . .
Pilot has been "secured" . . .
Bottom wing covering has been started, servos in place . . .
Upper wing center section (I tend to do covering in sections) done . . .
Tail feathers have been epoxyed in place, the color stripes even line up . . .
Pilot has been "secured" . . .
Bottom wing covering has been started, servos in place . . .
Upper wing center section (I tend to do covering in sections) done . . .
Tail feathers have been epoxyed in place, the color stripes even line up . . .
#258
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Gary, change that covering ordering suggestion from one extra Antique, to one extra of both the Antique and the Olive Drab. Thought I had enough of the Olive Drab when I ordered the extra roll of Antique, of course that was before I discovered just how difficult it is (for me at least) to cover, with any neatness, a wing that is one color on top, and another color on the bottom. So I'm in for another $10.95 shipping charge on top of the cost of the covering. I think in the future I'll just double up on whatever the manufacturer recommends for covering.
Decided to make a small fixture that will allow me to keep the landing gear in place with the bottom wing off. Should make transportation to the field easier.Engine fits pretty much how I envisioned and the cowl (waiting for the weather to get a bit nicer so I can spray it outdoors) fits well also.Just waiting on the additional covering at this point so I can finish the top wing.
Decided to make a small fixture that will allow me to keep the landing gear in place with the bottom wing off. Should make transportation to the field easier.Engine fits pretty much how I envisioned and the cowl (waiting for the weather to get a bit nicer so I can spray it outdoors) fits well also.Just waiting on the additional covering at this point so I can finish the top wing.
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Pretty much done. Covering went well except for the fact that the second roll of Solartex Olive Drab was a bit more Olive and a bit less Drab than the first roll. What are you going to do. Next time I'll make sure I just remember to double up on covering.All that I need now is some good weather so I can spray paint the cowl.
Finished Pup came in at 6 lbs/4 oz. (a first for me) and with the reciever battery tucked way up in the well behind the firewall (and everything else I managed to keep forward) she balanced perfectly at the 3 1/2" back from the top wing.
I couldn't find control throw information in the instruction manual (if it was on the drawings, they're long gone) so Balas USA sent them to me:
Elevator ………………….. 1/2” Up and Down
Rudder …………………… 1-1/2” Left and Right
Ailerons ………………….. 3/4" Up and Down
(Aileron differential recommended 3/4" Up 1/2” Down)
Finished Pup came in at 6 lbs/4 oz. (a first for me) and with the reciever battery tucked way up in the well behind the firewall (and everything else I managed to keep forward) she balanced perfectly at the 3 1/2" back from the top wing.
I couldn't find control throw information in the instruction manual (if it was on the drawings, they're long gone) so Balas USA sent them to me:
Elevator ………………….. 1/2” Up and Down
Rudder …………………… 1-1/2” Left and Right
Ailerons ………………….. 3/4" Up and Down
(Aileron differential recommended 3/4" Up 1/2” Down)
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
I've gotten some decals from B&E Graphix in the past, so I thought I'd dress up the bottom wing just a bit. First image is what I sent them and asked them to duplicate, then the next two images are what I received and how it looks on the wing. Their "air release" decals are the best. Wish I had opted to use their roundels rather than the ones I purchased with the kit. I for one, am not able to deal correctly with the air bubbles when putting down standard decals.
www.bandegraphix.com/
www.bandegraphix.com/
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RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Gary/Eray2012 . . . Thanks!
I've got a short list of "things I would do different if I built it again" going around in my head, but I'll wait to post that after I've painted the cowl, and more importantly, flown the plane. It was a good kit, although it builds a bit more "fragile" than others I've done. The top wing especially. I was concerned about shrinking the Solartex too much, thinking I would introduce warps into the wing. But that's what most guys have said. Balsa USA kits are more like "stick" kits, rather than say Sig or Top Flite.
I've got a short list of "things I would do different if I built it again" going around in my head, but I'll wait to post that after I've painted the cowl, and more importantly, flown the plane. It was a good kit, although it builds a bit more "fragile" than others I've done. The top wing especially. I was concerned about shrinking the Solartex too much, thinking I would introduce warps into the wing. But that's what most guys have said. Balsa USA kits are more like "stick" kits, rather than say Sig or Top Flite.