GhostRider 1

HHmmm... I didn't see anythiing in the instructions about grinding the bulkheads to push the tank back further. I thoughtthe tankfit just fine the way it was. As you can see the way it landed, I would say I have the CG spot on.

jimb0b

Hello Tornado'ers. 

txshan130

My Feedback: (114)

Uhhmm...always have a shutoff valve prior to pump so that you can fill fuel tanks...maybe I'm missing the point of your question.  Also, the ECU will shutoff the turbine when going into failsafe mode with loss of signal.  I never set up my radio for the aadditional kill channel.  Don't ever want to hit that one by accident while flying and can always take throttle trim to zero to shut it down manually.

jimb0b

but is it not best to install festos on the high pressure side not  the low?

jimb0b

and what about putting the kill switch on a rotary switch, so you can operate it when needs be, but you're not going to 'bump' it by accident.

txshan130

My Feedback: (114)

Hmm..maybe I should have looked at my fuel system before answering that one.  Now that I think about, I guess all my festo valves are on the high pressure side after the pump.  And yes I guess in theory the solenoid should in fact allow u to fuel assuming they are powered up and/or closed in the power-off position.  I don't really worry about it since I always close the festo when fueling.  I guess without the festo valve you risk shoving a heck of a lot of kero in the can if the solenoid fails or is open...that would make for a nice flame and a nice hot start...not worth it for me.

txshan130

My Feedback: (114)

From the JetCat manual....

"Be careful not to over-pressurize the kerosene tanks and the kerosene shut off valve during refueling operations. You might pump a bit of raw fuel past the valve and into the turbine, and subsequently have a wet (hot!) start. We are now requiring a manual shutoff valve downstream of the automatic kerosene shutoff valve, as an additional precaution. "

BaldEagel

Why try to re-invent the wheel, the loss of signal will cut out the fuel pump, and lowering the trim and throttle will cut out the pump, loss of power to the ECU will cut out the pump, should I go on.

Some installations do not allow a shutoff valve after the pump, because of space problems, my Duckty has the cut off valve externally just after the tank, does not leak and has worked well for over 60 flights.

Have a look on the JMA web site for Jet Model operation notes, that will give you the guide lines for jet operations in the UK, but remember these are only guide lines and not Regulations, same goes for the BMFA guide lines.

Mike

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

I have had two instances, over the years, where a manual shut-off valve saved the day. One was admittedly with an old RAM 750F with no fuel solenoid. But the other had an autostart engine that had a weird ECU failure and ran amuck.

Don't let ANYONE tell you not to use a manual shut-off valve, unless they guarantee to pay for all damages. ALWAYS use a shutoff valve, ALWAYS!!!!

BaldEagel

+1

Mike

Jetmodeljones

I installations on small models a simple fuel clamp (The plastic ones used offton on glow models) are a good idea they are cheap, light, small. cant leak and do the job very well

BaldEagel

I found the clamps do not work on Tygon, it would have to be something else Kero proof that was suple enough to be clamped shut.

Mike

dslivingston

My Feedback: (46)

Could someone please post some pictures of the underside of their canopy mounts and the modifications to the air frame. I am almost finished and concerned about how to mount the canopy so that it is secure but easy to remove.

Thanks,

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

I am in need of a right wing pannel if someone has one...please PM me

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

i also need a set of retracts if someone has a set available..thanks

jonkoppisch

My Feedback: (162)

Put 3 more flights on today. I moved the cg back and it's handling better. It still falls a little inverted so I think I'm going to play some more with the balance. This will be a fun jet for this summer.

BaldEagel

What version have you got, the latest version has shorter legs than the previous, you may need to be more specific in what you want.

Mike

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

i have the V3 with the carbon tail booms.

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

i find it hard to belive that there are no gear available for this airplane used.

Cole

rcpm5

My Feedback: (2)

for those of you who have the 1" shorter landing gears, do you like them?

Flynstuff

My Feedback: (29)

Anyone using Electric retracts?

If so what ones other than the electrons??

jimb0b

On the rudder, where the plane of the servo arm is at quite a large angle to the plane of the control horn, what are people using?  Ball links? Because I don't even think a clevis will work. All needs doing is the servo pocket re-drilling perpendicular to the rudder hinge then it'd be sorted, V4 maybe??

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

Here you go.

StevL

I completely agree, the geometry of the flaps could be better too. Would be great to see on V4.

Tumbler,

Move your rudder both directions to full throw and please post those photos. I suspect you will see the angle jimb0b is asking about.


Steve

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

I get full throw in both directions no problem. Remember there are two rudders so you don't need tons of throw. Mine knife edges just fine. If you look at a bvm Bandit elevator and rudder, the linkage horn and linkage is the same way and they just use a regular Clovis and is fine even at 1" of deflection or more. So they way they are is fine. With ball links I get tons of throw on the flaps too but not even needed.