cymaz

Had a few problems with my TT139FS. The skirt broke on the piston, this was replaced under warranty. Many thanks to RC Planet and others. The O rings were changed as the stock ones became loose. All good now. Using an APC 16X6.

gasayers

Well clocked up quite a few flights on my new motor now and touch wood no problems. Very easy to start and very reliable. All good. surprised there isn't more info about them around.
Cheers

jeffie8696

Ihad to resist the urge to try and talk my buddy bruce out of the 130 he tested the other day. It was a smooth sounding engine and throttled up and handled like a champ. You can buy it instead, he will have it on his website Brucercengines.com. Please please do! Idont know how long I can resist looking at it, and we will be at a swap meet in IL Saturday so Iwill have to spend several hours looking at it.

MrShoes

My Feedback: (15)

What is interesting, is that the YS 91AC will also turn 9000 rpm on APC 14x10 and 15x8 props. Yet the TT F130s is rated at 2.2 hp, while the sticky in the YS forum estimates the 91AC to be 2.0 hp.

cymaz

Will it depend at what rpm the hp is measured. I assume the greater the revs the more power

MrShoes

My Feedback: (15)

True. But I am amazed that the little YS 91AC can keep up with the TT 130. According to APC's data, 3.541 Hp is required to turn their 14x10 prop at 9000 rpm static. They don't mention how they measure it.

cymaz

The other thing that springs to mind is YS engines like to run on around 30% nitro[X(]

triangle

My Feedback: (3)

you guys think this motor will be good for a jerry's big boy to do some 3d flying??

cymaz

Does anyone know how big the oil way is from the rear bearing to the cam gear box. My newly bought 2nd hand one does not have a hole. I need to drill a hole to get oil
up into the cam box and then on up to the valves- all of which are dry.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Cy, the only reason the cam gear would be dry is if the previous owner used all synthetic fuel. Synthetic lubes run off of the parts almost as soon as the engine stops. No hole is needed.

cymaz

The valves are getting no lubrication at all !!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

And they won't, they can't, you need to do that every so often, I use Power Steering fluid on my Saitos. It is tenacious and tough.

1QwkSport2.5r

I drip some straight castor down the pushrod tubes and around the valves & valve springs on my Enya 4C every so often.

jeffie8696

I use some good synthetic motor oil and drizzle it in the cam cover and down the pushrod tubes and rockers.

cymaz

Thanks for all the advice.
Would drilling an oil way from the rear bearing to the cam box do no good at all then ??

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Since oil flows past the crankshaft and walks up the the timing gear there would be no point in it.

cymaz

That's the point. there is no oil getting to the timing gear

1QwkSport2.5r

Oil the area manually, run the engine on fuel with castor in it for half a gallon and check it out.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If no oil were getting there the gears and the cam lobes would be scarred and burned blue.

1QwkSport2.5r

That too.

cymaz

Drilled a 1.6mm hole on the rear bearing seat to the cam box. Some evidence of more oil on the valves now so it is showing signs of getting through.

silver.kiwi

Well it's been almost four years ago since I made my post recommending this engine. I now retract recommendation and declare these engines poorly engineered with a seriously flawed piston design. I have now experienced the same piston failure that many others have had with this engine. A quick check of this forum and others will reveal multiple people who have had the same problem.

Initially I ran mine just long enough to run a little more than a gallon of fuel though it. It ran well at that time but I got rid of the airplane and took it out of service after only a couple of months. Before putting it in storage I flooded the crankcase with Marvel Mystery Oil wrapped it a clean cloth and put it in a plastic bag where it stayed in my spare bedroom/hobby room until now when I purchased a new airframe for it. Before putting it back in service I did as I always do and removed the back cover to drain the storage oil and inspect the bearings and other visible parts. It appeared to be good as new. I was still hesitant to put it back in service because I feared that I would have a problem with it and sure enough the piston skirt failed after the third tank of fuel and destroyed the engine. I am now out $200. for repairs on an engine that is going to be prone to the same failure again. Can you say "Throwing good money after bad". Should have spent the extra money and bought a quality product to start with.

Mlwya2012

Do you know we're to get a screw for the motor. The screw I have is striped

cymaz

Tower hobbies ??

Mlwya2012

I'm trying to get one to for my THunder tiger 130 no luck all I need is the nuts. Mine r striped out. Do u know another motor that has the same size muffler pipe?