wollins

Hey Guys,

I just bought some Lado retracts for this plane but while looking at the wing in some picsin the threadI realized they seem to be located in a somewhat offset position?.

Does this mean that the retracts for this needs to be rotating ones? If not (and I'm hoping not!) how else would the wheels line up in the up position if they're to sit flat in the wing in the down position?

Colin

jorgy-Delta

No, rotating won't be nessesary. As long as the lado were made for the this tiffy or "will fit" design, you should be ok. Once you get them test fit, sometimes pictures and the actual thing look different.

Let us know how it turns out, i've been looking at new retracts maybe this year.

jorgy-Delta

kmp was pull/pull wire connection, very simple setup. I swapped mine out with the dubro 90-120 size tail wheel, used a few pc's from both to make it work, looks very much nicer, pull/pull wire.

darjen38

I have just acquired one from a mate, he had crashed it on the maiden flight.
needed a lot of repair to get it up to a standard of flying again.

check6ii

My Feedback: (12)

I find crash rebuilding to be rewarding. Good luck with the tiffy-

wollins

Hey all, I'm finally getting around to finishing this plane but i/m really puzzled by the flap joiner wire ... does the whole length insert into the flaps? Seems awfully long for the purpose.

Also is it suposed to be loose within the flap? I figured it should be glued in but the flaps kinda splays apart as they open .. so the wire would restrict that movement if glued in no?

Colin

Primi

Hi Collin,

the wire works actually very well for the flaps, I glued them in on one side and used a brass tube on the other side that the wire can easily move.

Michael

wollins

Ok, where did you you glue it in relation to the cord of the flap ... nearer the hinge line ... in the middle ... where? Alsodid you use the entire length of the wire?

Thanks!

Colin

Primi

So far I remember I glued 1 1/2" into the outer flap and left the same amount for the inner flap. The further out you go, the more movement you will get due to the flex of the wire, but if you have it too close then you will have also play because of the play of the wire in the sleeve! I have it about 1 1/2" from the hinge point worked fine for me.

wollins

Michael thank you so much ... this is exactly the kind of info I needed! I REALLY appreciate it. How's your Typhoon going anyways?Rereading the fewthreads on this plane makes me a little nervous about the maiden ... seems like the old composite one is either hard to fly or there’s almost something “wrong” with it? Seems like every other person who owned that version back in the day crashed it? (I have that version)

Which one is yours? Did you have many flights in her?Any advice on how she flys and how I should fly her so as not to end out like many of them other guys?Any tips or advice would be appreciated ... FWIW, my AUW will be around 19lbs and I fly electric.

Primi

Colin, with this air plane is like with all of them, a major part plays the pilot how good it performs, surly it is not a beginners plan because of it's high wing loading like all of the scale II War birds, it's critical on landing to keep the speed up, but it fly’s very nicely, fast and like on rails. My Typhoon ended with 22pounds and a lot of lead in the nose after about 20 flights in a gully, reason was the retract servo died and shorted the circuit, no control and crash, but have to say it looked very real. I got obviously the second generation with build-up wings, but I believe they have all the same profile, and should fly very similar. Be sure it is not tail heavy that's what no war bird likes, the flaps are very effective on landing, do a few slow passes and a stol with the flaps to get the feeling for the speed range Otherwise it fly's like a trainer.
I liked the plane that much, that I bought a replacement kit to get it back in the air.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

i really dont know why KMP doesnt produce a 1/5 SCALE typhoon , for what you pay for the 74 span one , it should be at least 90 inches

cathurga

Anyone still flying this model? I have one sitting in a box, and will start building it soon. Going to be powered by a 30cc RCGF motor. I am not good with build threads, but will stick some findings on here just out of interest.

Thanks to all for the info to date. Very useful.

Regards
Andy

Primi

Hi Andy,

I got also still one in the box to build, actually it is the second one, unfortunately I lost the first one due to a power problem (servo shorted out!). You will see, it is a very nice Modell to fly. And looks good in the air as on the ground!

Don't make the same mistake I did on my maiden, without flaps it will be very fast on landing! Seeing my crash you will be surprised how strong the Modell is there was only a small crack in the fuse!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8Y90JHXioM

Rgds
Primi

wagen017

Primi, that was a spectacular crash, sorry to see it happen! Next time, I would also suggest to build some more speed before take-off, it seems very close to stalling there!

Volkert

cathurga

Ok, I will probably start the build next week. All of the threads on the popular forums are a little stagnant it seems...its such a shame that these are not as 'popular' as some of the other warbirds, but I am also 'enightened' by the fact that I dont have a COMMON plane LOL.

Anyways, I have many good ideas on how to build her and will likely toss some of the hardware included and replace with some better quality kit. Ideally I would like to avoid excess weight up front, but clearly with the short nose moment I will be forced to add weight. With the littl 30cc gasser upfront, I am going to look into creating a shelf either on top of the engine, or maybe below/behind it so that I can mount batteries, and other gubbins in the cowl. Now to get this right, I would have to cute a hatch in the cowl to access all the parts. I have never seen any pics of a Typhoon/Tempest with the cowling open where technicians are working on it.....anyone ever seen a pic of a real tiffie with the cowl open for servicing?

Regards

wagen017

I think they took of the whole cowling during servicing, this one gives an idea:

http://modelismo.freeforums.org/hawk...1-48-t236.html

This guy did a great job btw.

This is the only real picture I could find; I guess these planes didn't need a lot of servicing!

http://www.historyofwar.org/Pictures..._loading2.html

Volkert

cathurga

Wagen, thanks so much for the pics. That scale model is wicked, might need to find one of those myself!

Looks like I am going to have some real problems finding a way to get that cowling to open in a nice way that will allow me to hide ignitions, batteries etc away under the 'hood'.

rcgeorge29

My Feedback: (15)

can you load them into the chin scoop on the cowl?....install a tray coming out from the firewall.

Cheers

Rob

SJN

Hey guys.
I just ordered one of these for my saito 200 TI engine.

Found some interesting documentry of the typhoon on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qexMo-2ZLos

I had no idea that it had a 24 cylinder 2500HP Napier Sabre boxer engine installed.........allways thought it was a merlin or gryphon engine.......no wonder you need lots of lead in this bird to get the CG right

SJN

Typhoon arrived today, and looked through the bits, and manual.

I dont like the pull pull elevator.

Has anyone used a single carbon rod to the existing mechanism, instead of using the wires?

warbirdfan2

Thats what I am planning on doing on my P51, but I can't give you an answer as to how well it works.

Me410

I think most of the ESM 72" birds use pull-pull on the elevator.

I have the ESM 72" Mk 14 Sptifire. I used a carbon fiber arrow shaft to operate my elevator, others have done the same. Works great and is not hard to do at all. Rock solid linkage.

Tom

SJN

great, thanks.

Do you use a metal or plastic clevis, og even a ball link ?
Im afraid the metel to metal contact might wear over time with the vibration of a glow engine.

Me410

I used a Dubro ball link. they make them with a threaded end in 4-40 and the hole in the ball is2-56. So you can bolt the ball end to the arm on the elevator joiner with a 2-56 allen bolt and lock nut. This will be plenty strong and tight. Glue a 4-40 threaded rod into your arrow shaft and away you go. You may have to grind away some of the bulkhead at the tail wheel to allow extra clearance for the shaft..

I think I have a picture of my set up, I will get back to you on that.

Tom