CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
#1951
Senior Member
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary I've been linking everybody to my other threads so they can see my photos
I hear there redoing the server from the ground up but this may not be true
so I wouldn't hold your breath.
Bruce
I hear there redoing the server from the ground up but this may not be true
so I wouldn't hold your breath.
Bruce
#1952
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: splinterz25
Gary I've been linking everybody to my other threads so they can see my photos
I hear there redoing the server from the ground up but this may not be true [img][/img]
so I wouldn't hold your breath.
Bruce
Gary I've been linking everybody to my other threads so they can see my photos
I hear there redoing the server from the ground up but this may not be true [img][/img]
so I wouldn't hold your breath.
Bruce
Back in the day, about the only sharing was to a very few close friends who would occasionally visit your shop, or at the field after everything was done. I have gotten way spoiled with the internet age.
#1957
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Back to the cowl mod.
I decided to add a third guide pin at the top rear. This area meets the fuselage, and I just wanted a little more rigidity for that reason. I aligned it parallel to the other ones, and made it the same size for simplicity, 2". It was first tack glued in place with thick CA, then glued in with a mix of epoxy and micro balloons. They were in arms length and the Steel Powder wasn't, no other reason.
With this third aluminum alignment sheath in place, I was finally ready for step 4, cutting the cowl in two. For this operation I used a combination of tools. I first got the small delicate cuts out of the way with a tiny diamond cutting wheel, a modified razor knife, and an exacto blade. Then I went to work on the long cuts with a 1" diamond cutting wheel, finishing with a fine tooth razor saw. The results were very good.
The aluminum tubes were cleaned out and deburred.
Then I made three carbon fiber pins 1.5" long, and eased the edges.
I will glue these into the half with the cowl joining plates attached. This way, I can remove this half for display of the radial, and leave the other side without pins in place.
I decided to add a third guide pin at the top rear. This area meets the fuselage, and I just wanted a little more rigidity for that reason. I aligned it parallel to the other ones, and made it the same size for simplicity, 2". It was first tack glued in place with thick CA, then glued in with a mix of epoxy and micro balloons. They were in arms length and the Steel Powder wasn't, no other reason.
With this third aluminum alignment sheath in place, I was finally ready for step 4, cutting the cowl in two. For this operation I used a combination of tools. I first got the small delicate cuts out of the way with a tiny diamond cutting wheel, a modified razor knife, and an exacto blade. Then I went to work on the long cuts with a 1" diamond cutting wheel, finishing with a fine tooth razor saw. The results were very good.
The aluminum tubes were cleaned out and deburred.
Then I made three carbon fiber pins 1.5" long, and eased the edges.
I will glue these into the half with the cowl joining plates attached. This way, I can remove this half for display of the radial, and leave the other side without pins in place.
#1958
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Next will be the installation of the plywood backer with the 2-56 blind nuts for the cowl joint screws.
This mod went very well. The guide pins line up perfectly and are easy to install this way. The two halves slide together smoothly. I'm very happy with this cowl and see how it can be a real pleasure to remove for display or radial maintenance. That wonderful scale prop will stay right where it belongs, bolted to the engine.
This mod went very well. The guide pins line up perfectly and are easy to install this way. The two halves slide together smoothly. I'm very happy with this cowl and see how it can be a real pleasure to remove for display or radial maintenance. That wonderful scale prop will stay right where it belongs, bolted to the engine.
#1960
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary,
That looks great. Is the glue you are mixing with your Steal Powder 3M epoxy? If not will this work as that is what I have been using?
Thanks,
Michael
That looks great. Is the glue you are mixing with your Steal Powder 3M epoxy? If not will this work as that is what I have been using?
Thanks,
Michael
#1961
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gary,
That looks great. Is the glue you are mixing with your Steal Powder 3M epoxy? If not will this work as that is what I have been using?
Thanks,
Michael
Gary,
That looks great. Is the glue you are mixing with your Steal Powder 3M epoxy? If not will this work as that is what I have been using?
Thanks,
Michael
Any epoxy will do. I use 20 min. for the cowl nose. Gives plenty of time for it to self-level. Faster stuff was used for the single pin on top.
#1962
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
For those interested, I have a list of things I will include in the cowl kit. Due to the latest mod to the cowl, I'm going to include the things used to divide the cowl as an option.
These can also serve as a bill of materials for the do-it-yourself guys.
In the basic kit will be :
- (1) front cowl ring cut to size (builder provides taper)
- (1) rear cowl flap ring cut to size (builder provides taper)
- (1) Sullivan #514 Gold-N-cable 48" (the nylon tube will be cut in the proper lengths)
- (24) Du-Bro heavy duty hinges #257
- (6) 10-24 X 2"flat head Philips mounting bolts with blind nuts
- (6) stainless steel stand-offs
- (15) 1/64 ply cowl webs cut to shape (some fitting will be necessary around the hinges)
- (3) 10-24 X 3/4 cap screws for mounting the cowl with blind nuts
- a supply of Meister Aerofoil aluminum foil for the cowl flaps and the webbing (just because it looks so good all chipped up after it is painted)
- engine baffle template
- instructions
The cowl dividing option (way cool no matter what engine you use) will include:
- (3) 2" aluminum guide pin housings already plugged and ready to glue in
- (3) 1 1/2" carbon fiber pins
- (1) ply cowl mounting bracket
- (1) cowl bolt set of cap screw and blind nut
- (10) 2-56 SS flat head bolts with blind nuts
- 1/64 ply backer strips
- 3/32 ply center joiners (they hold the blind nuts)
- 1.5 lbs of Steel Powder for the cowl (used in the cowl nose, and when gluing the cowl brackets in.
- additional instructions
None of this is difficult, but having the correct materials on hand is huge. You guys think of anything else please let me know.
Gary
PS If you guys have any of this stuff laying around in your shop, I'll be glad to deduct what they cost me from the kit cost, and leave those parts out.
These can also serve as a bill of materials for the do-it-yourself guys.
In the basic kit will be :
- (1) front cowl ring cut to size (builder provides taper)
- (1) rear cowl flap ring cut to size (builder provides taper)
- (1) Sullivan #514 Gold-N-cable 48" (the nylon tube will be cut in the proper lengths)
- (24) Du-Bro heavy duty hinges #257
- (6) 10-24 X 2"flat head Philips mounting bolts with blind nuts
- (6) stainless steel stand-offs
- (15) 1/64 ply cowl webs cut to shape (some fitting will be necessary around the hinges)
- (3) 10-24 X 3/4 cap screws for mounting the cowl with blind nuts
- a supply of Meister Aerofoil aluminum foil for the cowl flaps and the webbing (just because it looks so good all chipped up after it is painted)
- engine baffle template
- instructions
The cowl dividing option (way cool no matter what engine you use) will include:
- (3) 2" aluminum guide pin housings already plugged and ready to glue in
- (3) 1 1/2" carbon fiber pins
- (1) ply cowl mounting bracket
- (1) cowl bolt set of cap screw and blind nut
- (10) 2-56 SS flat head bolts with blind nuts
- 1/64 ply backer strips
- 3/32 ply center joiners (they hold the blind nuts)
- 1.5 lbs of Steel Powder for the cowl (used in the cowl nose, and when gluing the cowl brackets in.
- additional instructions
None of this is difficult, but having the correct materials on hand is huge. You guys think of anything else please let me know.
Gary
PS If you guys have any of this stuff laying around in your shop, I'll be glad to deduct what they cost me from the kit cost, and leave those parts out.
#1963
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
#1969
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
I'll have some more pictures pretty soon. We have been very busy at work, and then my wife scheduled to have our duct work cleaned out. They need access to all of them including my building area. Ahhh OOO. I have been forced to do some much needed cleaning and re-organizing in my shop, and other parts of the house as well. Good thing is, the shop will be better to work out of.
cheers,
Gary
cheers,
Gary
#1970
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
I was reminded about the exhaust shrouds. It is about time to hang the Moki back on the nose for a test of the new cowl arrangement, so those waiting on the shrouds to go with their pipes, just a little while longer. They will be sent to all who have already purchased the pipes and received them, and included with future orders after they are available. The scale aluminum instrument panels will be available about the same time I hope.
#1973
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
A suggestion was made on the cowl kit and I like it. I will also include a template for the baffles for the radial engines. You can make them out of 1/32 ply, G-10, etc. Or, for a little more, I could just include the baffles ready to paint and install.
The 215 and 250 are a little different, so I'll just need to know which engine you are using.
I'm still anxious to find out if these will be needed with the Authentic Scale engines, as they seem to run cooler than the Moki. Looking forward to seeing them on the market and in the air in planes like this.
The 215 and 250 are a little different, so I'll just need to know which engine you are using.
I'm still anxious to find out if these will be needed with the Authentic Scale engines, as they seem to run cooler than the Moki. Looking forward to seeing them on the market and in the air in planes like this.
#1975
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gary,
For my baffels I'll need the set up for my Moki 250 please.
When your free call me.
Michael
Gary,
For my baffels I'll need the set up for my Moki 250 please.
When your free call me.
Michael