shrek514

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hello mradu 

MRadu

Hello Stephane,

I have been waiting to post more progress and one of these posts is the final installation of the exhaust. If you send me your email I can send you more photos of it.

Also I have been working on a web site of my own. Still under construction and I'm almost ready show progress with this Top Flite Corsair.

http://radumodels.com/

Yes I'd be happy to make you one of my exhaust for the DLE 55 RA.

Here is what is included:

1) One exhaust for the DLE 55 RA
2) Two pieces of high temp silicon hose.
3) Two exhaust pipe hubs
4) Six 11/32 brass tubes

Price $375.00 + Shipping and Handling

Optional:
All the items above plus installation of the three pipes into each hub.
Then cut and shape each of the three stacks. Also paint pipes with black high temp exhaust paint.
Price add $35.00

For those who would like just the (2) pipe hubs and (6) brass tubes I sale the pair for $45.00 + Shipping and Handling.


Thanks,

Michael

shrek514

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Michael,

MRadu

Hello Stephane,

Sure I can make you one without the three pipes and instead the high temp silicon I can supply you with some aluminum directional exhaust. Here is a photo of what it looks like.

Without the pipes the cost is reduced.

Let me know what you think.

Thank you.

MRadu

Glade to see RCU working again. Here is the first of many posts I'm behind. I hope you enjoy. If so PLEASE let me know.

I finished the engine (DLE 55 ra) and my custom muffler. Photos 1, 2 and 3 are the the three 11/32” brass tubes. These are hammered into the aluminum bases.

Photos 4 through 7 show the hard wood blocks that I cut and shaped to give the supports to mount the pipe bases. I then marked two locations to drill into the base tabs to secure to the firewall. Photo 9 shows the wood servo screws and the 3m epoxy glue used to glue the wood blocks. Photo 10 shows that once mounted the pipes do not make contact with the fuselage.

MRadu

This post shows the final assembly and installation of the muffler. I used high temp RTV. I also used lock washers on all blots. The tubes are from Keleo Exhaust and are made for this and can handle the heat.

Photo 4 shows that I sanded and rounded the one closest corner so as to have more clearance from the inside of the cowl.

Photos 11 and 12 show the pipes clearance from the cowl. This is the stock cowl. I have ordered a new cowl from Fiber Glass Specialities (FGS). This new cowl has the flaps open a little. This will add to the air flow and cooling. I’ll post photos when the cowl arrives.

MRadu

Now it was time to try to make and install the main antenna. This is the main antenna because the real main one is in the front of the fuel tank and is standard for the F4U-1A. However, I have three actual photos of Pappy sitting in his Corsairs and in these photos the front antenna is not installed. Most of my research show this antenna on Corsairs that are on aircraft carriers.

Photos 1, 2 and 3 show the two streamline aluminum tubes that fit inside the other. The larger one is 1/4” I cut this larger tube about two inches in length. Then I took a block of balsa wood and shaped it the the inside curve of the fuselage and then pressed slipped it into the block.

Cutting the exit hole into the top of the fuselage was difficult as there is a plywood stringer running the length of the fuselage and is harder to cut away. I slipped and ended up cutting far to much of the top of the fuselage. I simply had to make the balsa wood base block larger and fill in the extra exit hole with epoxy. Sorry I didn’t take photos of that.

Photos 5, 6 and 7 show how I shaped the antenna. I took a 6” piece of the smaller and inner streamline tube and using a bass wood dowel slightly larger than the aluminum press fit the wood into the aluminum about 1/4” to 3/8”. Then removed it and added some thick CA and re-inserted. Once dried I cut and shaped the wood into the final shape. Using gray primer I was able to see that more shaping was needed.

After the glued dried over night, i used some bondo filler to blend in the final shape of the base tube. The final fit is very tight and works well for me. I will be able to fly with this in and still be able to remove when needed.

MRadu

Here I’m making the side rails for the canopy to slide. I’m still not sure about this feature / modification as to have it working or not. I simply know the the side rails are seen and need to added in either case. Working (sliding) or not.

I first drew the placement with a pencil and straight edge. Using a diamond blade in my Demel I cut along the lines. I cut the ends using my X-acto knife. See photo 3. I still need to cut the slit into one of the sides to the real or simulated track for opening the canopy.

MRadu

Continuing on the Canopy rails. I now cut the slots into the brass square tubes. I used a milling machine, however, I could have simply buy them. I recommend the purchased rails as they will be straight and true. Mine are as well, however, I have in the past cut them with my Dremel tool and they were never as clean as they are now.

I’m using 2/56 ball and sockets to slide and lock into my rails. In photo 3 you can see three at 2/56 and the other smaller one that I did not use.

It is looking pretty good and I’m still not sure about cutting the canopy and making it sliding at this point.

MRadu

In photos 1, 2 and 3 I’m doing some final clean up with Bondo. 4, 5 and 6 show how I installed the earth magnets so as to hold the canopy closed should I make it sliding.
The magnets (two on each side) are very strong. Still not sure about making the canopy sliding I simply keep working that way. However, if I do I’m sure that these magnets will hold it closed. Especially if add another to the inside top of frame.

MRadu

Changing up a little and going to paint my exhaust stacks. Using some high temperature black spray paint. I painted the pipes. I have made three more sets and will offer a set of two for $45.00 + shipping. Simply send me an email.

MRadu

In photos 1, 2 and 3 show that I used Adobe Illustrator to trace out the scale lines for making paint masks. I plan on cutting out two sets. As one will be for the spraying of the thick primer (as seen in these photos). The other print / cut I will be using for a paint mask.

In photos 10 and 11 you can see the top and bottom of the elevators. I was surprised to see the difference from top to bottom.

MRadu

Well I decided to drill each and ever mounting hole and insert a tiny rivet. I had to cut each rivet in half as they were to long. Also I added 1/16” tape for the panel lines in front.

After gluing in each rivet and stepping back I became unhappy as I now think they are much to large. I believe I have ruined this plane. Oh well, I’ll finished her up and use her as my everyday flyer and chalk this one up to lessons learned well. As well as what not to do and or use.

MRadu

I’m going back to the aft section as I’m still upset over the rivets. Even when I sprayed thick primer over them all. Here I’m again using my scale documentation to get the size and location just right. This also makes it easy to apply to the airplane.

MRadu

Making those inside wood rails for the cockpit and revisiting them again I came to the thought that I could simply cut them and insert another set of rails.

MRadu

Well no going back now! I cut the canopy and the canopy frame in two! I’m simply winging it as I go along. No pun intended. I have decided not to make this canopy servo or air operating. This canopy will simply open and close manually.

MRadu

Time to paint the dash board so I can start to install the cockpit for the last time. First I had to drill vent and air conditioning holes and add more rivets to the dash board before painting.

MRadu

After spending hours on the computer making all the panels, I printed / cut my silver vinyl. The silver looks good, however, the vinyl is thin. I think it maybe to thin. I’ll spray a test and see.

MRadu

Well after spraying my top fuselage color I have found a couple of things I’m not happy about. One my silver vinyl is way to thin and you can not even see them. They don’t look like raised panels at all. Second, my rivets are way to large and tall. These were to simulate philips pan head screws.

I have a friend come over and say that it looks like a toad or a tank or even a A-10 warthog!

MRadu

So off they go. As I used CA to attach them all, I had to use my soldering iron on each rivet to heat the glue and remove them one by one.

Once I removed all rivets, the entire fuselage need a sanding. I also removed all the raised panel vinyl stickers. They make great paint masks. Also they were very had to remove. Not afraid of them peeling and or coming off.

Next I had to re-apply panel lines tape and re-Bondo, sand and spray primer again. See photo 8.

MRadu

Once the primer had dried I used Top-Flite Scale Template and a pencil to mark out my screw pattern / placement.

Then using my Demel I re-drilled each of my marks. Then in each hole I tapered all of them. In photos 4 and 5 show the tiny screws I’m using. I wish I had found these before. I picked these up form Micro-Fastners.

MRadu

When things are drying or I just need to take a break I work on other parts. Here I have been slowly working on the scale static propeller and my flying ones.

The three blade in photo 2 is a Solo Propeller and six of the others are replacement blade. Theses fly on my Zirlli Corsair. The three at bottom center are from Zirolli and are the static scale blades.

These static blades are made of a cast resin and had as many craters as the moon. I had to bondo fill and sand four times just to smooth them out. After painting the black, it’s time to paint the yellow tips.

MRadu

Time to install the screws. I first add small amounts of 3M epoxy glue into a row of drilled holes. Then I inserted the screws into each hole. Once the row has screws I use alcohol and paper towels to wipe clean any and all excess glue.

This is much better as the profile is smooth and I think is much better. From photos 9 and 10 it may look like the same as the rivets, however, after painting they will be less predominate.

Also you may have noticed I have re-printed / cut new vinyl from thicker vinyl. It is just purple. Also much better than the silver.

MRadu

Ok my cowl just arrived from Fiberglass Specialities! I was excited until I placed it on and found that it is not the correct size!

The diameter is 3/4” of a inch to large.

What do you all think? Should I try to cut and make this cowl smaller and if so how, or should I work the weaker cowl that came with the kit?

Let me know your thoughts!


Ok I'm all up to date. Back to work :-)

Thanks for watching. Hope you like my work.

shrek514

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Hi  Michael