CaseyRobinett_2011

My Feedback: (2)

so really im screwed for getting parts for the nirtage? if not any idea how i could go about keeping it running like other companys who might make parts? Really like this nitro rc and hate to have to just let it sit

-Goat-

Casey, you can stll get parts but they take some time to get here. I have ordered from Tamiya,Vellrip and JC-RC. I have run my Nitrage through about 2 gallons of fuel and the biggest problem was the motor, finally put a LRP in it and it has been sweet. The only parts I stock now are the front upper & lower control arms,center diff spur gear,clutch(Savage 3 shoe & flywheel works great) and servo saver. This truggy has been through quite a bit, doesn't break as easily as some of the others out there. Bottom line...I love it. Let me know if you need any other info.

-Goat-

CaseyRobinett_2011

My Feedback: (2)

Ok thanks a ton one last thing i do not like about mine is i believe it has 14mm traxxas e revo wheels on it i like the look but seem wayyy to heavy and i prefer to find some light weight wheels that would fit any ideas on were i could find some good light weight wheels?

-Goat-

Not sure on the actual wheels but you can get HPI Savage part #86804, 17mm hex & pins, to be able to use a better range of wheel types instead of the Tamiya 14mm hexes.

-Goat-

hunternaf

If it has 14mm hexes you can also use warhead wheels

CaseyRobinett_2011

My Feedback: (2)

What would everyone reccomend for 14mm im looking for the best for speed and light weight.

coalminer

Casey.
I have been very pleased with these HPI Trophy 4.6 truggy wheels and tyres, they are a little slimmer but lighter too than the stock wheels. They look good too. The only thing is that they are 17mm hexes so I had to swap the hex adapters... I used the Maximizer 17mm composite adapters (see attached pic).

If you can get hold of some new tyres/foams and glue I will post you a set of brand new stock Nitrage white rims if you want them, they are unused and you can have them for free.

Pm me if you want them, but please dont take them just for the sake of it, I would wish for them to be had by someone who will use them.

CaseyRobinett_2011

My Feedback: (2)

Really like those HPI's look good on the Nitrage might have to try to find a set of four

CaseyRobinett_2011

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone had any experence with a Nitrage Center One-Way & Direct Shaft???

maximus75

Just ordered a nitrage and have a question. While doing some research I found a bunch of posts complaining about a plastic gear breaking or stripping in the trans. Most of the posts where from 07-08 when the car first came out. Is this still a problem or has tamiya fixed this in the new kits? Thanks

maximus75

Just ordered a nitrage and have a question. While doing some research I found a bunch of posts complaining about a plastic gear breaking or stripping in the trans. Most of the posts where from 07-08 when the car first came out. Is this still a problem or has tamiya fixed this in the new kits? Thanks

Tech Head

Have Tamiya re-released the Nitrage? I'm looking for parts, not because it's broken, I just want to make sure I have backup parts when I do.

Cheers, Brett.

-Goat-

@Max..I think that was a short term problem but then again it might depend on how ya run the Nitrage. A tight slipper while doing numerous jumps might cause a problem. I have replaced mine once while using almost two gallons of nitro.

@ Tech Head - Nitrage is still listed as discontuned on the Tamiya site.

-Goat-

maximus75

Thanks, Ill keep the slipper a little loose just to be safe.
Tech, I got it from Ebay. There are still a few of them on there. I paid $295 NIB.

coalminer

Hi Brett

The Nitrage is a very tough cookie and your NOT likely to need a great deal of spares. The spares that you are likely to need are mainly centred around the clutch area ie the clutch shoes (not the slipper clutch) but the shoe set inside the clutch bell. Also I have had to renew the clutch bell with its bearings and the flywheel along with the brass collet for mounting the flywheel to the engine shaft.
A couple of spare Glowplugs also to keep in your tool box. Get some after run oil to slip a few drops into your engine after every run.
And as long as you keep it away from the rocks you should not break any suspension arms ....Iv'e never broken an arm on my Nitrages. The small dogbone between the clutch bell and transmission box also wears so one of those in ya box wont go a miss either.
appart from these few bits not much goes wrong really.

The engine in my opinion is a weak link, but easily replaceable with another brand when it does give up on you.
Keep the drive cups n dogbones well greased and bash away mate.

Simon

alex_geforce

Hey, guys, I have a Nitrage too, but it will be an electro truggy, beacuz ofa broken engine, I got itfor the lowest price, i guess - 152 $.Do you think, that the gears in the gear box will be fine for 2000kv turnigy motor 4074 size ?

-Goat-

I know the nitro enginge turns around 39000+ rpms, I think electric motors turn slightly less than that,unless you are using a 6S battery. Don't really have a clue how it would work but I would like to see some pics and specs to see how the conversion to electric was made.

-Goat-

alex_geforce

Well, thats the spc's of the motorl I'll use:
Motor Specifications:

[*]Number of poles: 4[*]Max Amps: 120A[*]Max Volt: 14.8V[*]Max Watts: 1775W[*]Rpm/V: 2000kv[*]Resistance: 0.0072 ohms[*]No-load Current: 1.7A(7.4V)[*]Dimension: 39.8mm x 73.8mm[*]Mounting hole depth: 7mm[*]Length of extend Shaft: 16mm[*]Shaft diameter: 5mm[*]Weight: 382g


The connection will be the same as the nitro engine turns the gears - with a shaft and a cup on the motor. I guess you get the idea (engine parts aren' t my best, so sorry, if I'm using the wrong names )

The ESC will be 120A HobbyKing, servo will bearound 20 kg. and4 cell li-po batery[/list]on this link, you can see the chassiss being prepaired for the electro parts it will be running:
http://mishka1675.snimka.bg/hobby/ta...age-5-2.742798
everything is made up by scratch on the motor mount, using duralumin plate 4mm

rcpowerhorse

I feel I must point out that the Max volts on a 4 cell will actually be 16.8 as a fully charged lipo cell is 4.2v
but manufacturers take this into consideration when rating things so if an ESC says 4cells on it you can run 4 cells

alex_geforce

othewise, 3cell won't fit the requirements of the motor... pretty strange situation...
Well, 4cell battery is the maximum for this ESC, so it will not be a problem. Thanks for the info
here are the specs of the ESC:
Cont./Burst Current: 120A/760A
Resistance: 0.0003 ohm
Suitable Car: 1/5 on-road and 1/8 off-road cars / trucks
Suitable Brushless Motor: 7T On road / Off road
Battery: 5-10 cells Ni-xx (NiMH / NiCd) 2-4 cells Li-Po
BEC Output: 6V/3A of switch mode built-in BEC
Motor Type: Sensorless and Sensored brushless motor
Dimension: 55x60x40mm
Weight: 150g

I guess, that the difference from the battery is consumed byreceiver and servo ?

rcpowerhorse

not quite sure what you mean by difference being used by receiver and servo
but the servo and receiver are powered by the BEC
if you are referring to the difference between 16.8v and 14.8v, 16.8v is with no load 14.8 will be with load. Remember to have your low voltage cut off set so as not to damage the batteries.

-Goat-

Tks Alex,looks like an interesting project. What will you be using to transfer rotation from the electric motor to the center differential? The center diff currently uses a dogbone from the clutchbell. Just curious how you are going to make that transition. Thanks for your info, its got me thinking that I might want to try something similar.

-Goat-

alex_geforce

I'll try the same way of connection, like the nitro engine transfers the rotation- cup joint on the motor -dogbone - geadbox.
Some of myfrends, told me, that Imust remove the whole gearbox and diff , buy other and lock it, to prevent making wheelies. Some says that the diff is not making the front goes up, and the diff must be there, not locked. So I think, that the second suggestion is the right one and I'll be using that, making the electric conversion. It's not exactly conversion, it's like replacing nitro with electric parts, so in the future, if there is some suitable engine on a good price, may be, the Nitragewill be running on fuel again, probably.

Well, the difference of 2 volts, probably is going to be a bit more power for the engine or so.
So far, I was using 2 cell batery on a 6200kv X11 LRP sensored motor (+ 120A esc HK)in my on-road car (OFNA JL10e), and almost everybody said, that this is too powerfull combo for drifting only, but I think that more power, means more fun on the track.
So probably here on the off-road configuration, will be the same.

By the way, every gear on the chassiss was like new, when I regreased everything. Thats pretty cool, considering the time at which thismodel was released and what year is now. Only the shocks are bit more greasy than normal, but replacing the rubber seals, that little leak will be stopped.
After collecting all the parts and the first few runs, may be I'll replace them with some aluminium ones.
What shock oil will be good for this combination ?

alex_geforce

Today I've got the motor - pretty little gray monster
here is the motormount, I made by myself today, for a few hours work.

Here are the parts in the begining:

And thats the final result :




Few things left to do, and this motor mount will be finished.

-Goat-

Wow, that looks sweet. Ya got my mind kicked into high gear right now. I ran my Nitrage w/.30 LRP through 5 tanks today and I had a blast without any problems(still have to learn how to steer properly though). I think I will be plannin change-over cause then I would have the best of both worlds.

Thanks for all your info Alex.

-Goat-