Dave Wilshere

Mike

I agree, sometimes they are not always proactive on things like that. I've been working with CARF for nearly 10 years and the product has always been fabulous, other aspects we are still dealing with

Certainly in Europe its not so much, but the Spit at $1040 would have been substantially cheaper than it sold in Europe at that time. Problem is shipping in the last few years has gone skywards and getting the kits to each country has added a huge percentage. When I started importing from the US I paid 3-5% of order value for shipping, now its 15-22%! Everything costs more, I think the biggest issue is manufacturers leaving it too long before passing on the increases, by the time they do its a huge jump []

Dave

Quote
Thanks Dave, I did contact Andy and he was great to supply the missing parts, no problem there, my annoyance was that it was an old kit and the old kits were known for missing all those specific parts. You'd think someone would have topped it up before shipping to me so, I didn't have to go through the hassle.

I have to disagree with you on prices though, possibly the UK/ Euro ones didn't go up last year but, the USA ones sure did. Some examples, the Spit kit went from $1040 to $1690. The UF went from $1890 to $2290, most went up significantly with the one exception being the Hawk, it stayed the same. Oddly enough, the Hawk is less than an Ultra Flash.

Mike

Stig Andersen

LOL. I hear that quite often.

Dave Wilshere

Don't worry, I still have a couple of my older jets on 35mhz, JR always had a perfect system, so no need to jump on those

Dave

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Here in the states 72 mHz is great! You can take he frequency pin for the whole day and no one will notice
BTW I was setting up my flaps and the horn easily "popped" off the flap just from the servo torque at full flap limit, there was almost no glue on there... about one half the size of a drop of water. Needless to say but flap horns are now well secured with Hysol applied with a syringe, but a word to the wise, they may be rationing glue at the CARF plant!
Also I used denatured alcohol to wipe away the excess Hysol from around the horn and the paint wiped right off onto my paper towel. I will certainly try to be careful in the future but does anyone know of a solvent to clean epoxy or other stains off the CARF paint without removing it?

Dave Wilshere

Yes, same with 35mhz here, was at a metting on Saturday, 50 pilots, one one 35mHz!

Unusual, but can happen on the glue...maybe they were allowing for it to be adjusted

The paint will always show until the model is wax coated. I use Meths to clean epoxy

regards

Dave

Kenrico

Hey Guys,
did the Maiden on the Hawk!. I must say it was one of the smoothest maiden flights I've done, take off was smooth and the landing even better, didn't really feel like a Maiden.
didn't get any more flights in due to a minor turbine issue and I didn't want to risk it.
Here is some pics my great friend Rene took, owner of the display scheme hawk in the video i posted a few posts back.
Thanks! for the Help and advice you guys provided on here!

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Congrats on the maiden. Looks good.

Marty

luv2flyrc

My Feedback: (6)

Dave, I have a question regarding the recomended Robart 165 air cylinders. I'm putting together a second Hawk, the first I used U.P cylinders on the doors, this one I've bought the suggested Robart165 but, it doesn't seem to fit in the nose as shown in the manual.

The manual shows the cylinders essentially vertical, the nose is not deep enough to accomodate mine. I'm wondering if the actual part should be the Robart 165s ? This is a shorter version of the 165.

Mike

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Mike,
I think I asked this question back in June last year about the cylinders as I ordered four of the standard ones as per the manual but when it was time to do the nose door I couldn't see how they would fit in the nose vertically. I ended up using the short version I believe.

Marty

Kenrico

Thanks for the compliments Marty, I just need my cockpit to get looking like yours! now and get some decals from Tylor made.

Mines was a tight fit also, U had to cut half of the ball link end( threaded end) off so i could get them to close completely. i think mines is the normal 165.

luv2flyrc

My Feedback: (6)

ok, thanks for the quick response guys.

Mike

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

If I remember correctly after speaking to Robart they said to open the valve and put a wheel collar in the inside on the rod to shorten the throw. I did that and it worked.

Stan

Dave Wilshere

Mike

No standard 165 (1 1/4" stroke) rams are in all our Hawks, I have built 2 and about to do a third and I have sold std 165 Robart rams to every one of the Hawk customers I sold them too.

With the ram fully extended and a wood block under (you need a short ball link (Miniature Aircraft USA 0135 would be perfect) it works out nicely.

regards

Dave

luv2flyrc

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Dave, I'll look for that ball link

Mike

fireblade5437

Well summer is finally here and I can continue to re-paint the Hawk, had to stop the painting last October when it stated getting colder! I have used the UPOL self levelling filler (thanks to Pinnacle Aviation for the tip on which filler to use) on the fin and finally got rid of the pin holes. The 2k black has gone on a treat...came out like black glass also the decals will now fit perfectly

Alan

Red and blue added just got the two white sections to spray...

siclick33

I see that CARF have discontinued the Hawk combo deal [&o] This has effectively raised the cost of a Hawk by over 400 Euros overnight.

It's a shame as that was one of the few reasonably priced quality jets left in the market.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Does the Equipment Tray glue into the fuselage as a structural member or is it just screwed into blocking and remain removable?

dubd

I screwed mine into a block to make it removable. I also added carbon cloth to the surrounding area to stiffen up the bottom of the fuse. The cloth prevented the bottom of the fuse from compressing when I put the plane on a stand.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks. Next up is the fuel tank plumbing. I have the stock tank, BVM UAT, fuel line and heavy clunk. Since there is only the one tank and the UAT I am sure to get air in the UAT every time he clunk is out of the fuel and I fly pretty aggressive aerobatics so I want to minimize that by keeping the clunk in the fuel! The CARF tank has a wall in the center too and I am worried it will cut the line eventually. Jack D's idea was to run a piece of fuel line from the tank cap to a brass tube which will run thru the "wall" opening and withstand any abrasion and another length of fuel tubing to the clunk. Overkill? Good idea? I have no idea whether that would increase or decrease air ingestion but surely it would help to keep the clunk from ever getting stuck in the front side of the tank.

Dave Wilshere

My tank has no baffle, but if CARF have added one, a piece of brass tube should be used through that section.
I have the supplied Felt clunk, feeding into a BVM UAT...just about NO air in my header every time I land. The Hawk is NOT a wild aerobatic aeroplane, its smooth and gentle, even with the CARF Hawk being light it will bite if you over pull...all Hawk wings do.
The idea of the felt clunk is it holds fuel as it "floats" out of the fuel, but generally other than on long down lines (where you should be throttled back) the fuel and clunk will be in roughly the same place

Dave

dubd

I added a piece of brass to my clunk line to prevent chaffing by the baffle.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, I will use a piece of tubing at the baffle. And flip a coin when it is time for the clunk! LOL A hotly contested piece of kit that. But for sure the felt clunk does retain a bit of fuel as designed. I'll be careful with the G's until I get used to that wing, but it probably won't be flown in a very scale like manner

Dave Wilshere

If we look at the start of this thread that's when I installed the felt clunk, not touched the tank or filter since that day...still no air in the hopper, same as at the beginning.

Dave

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Off topic but a club member gave me a stack of old jet magazines and the amount of good info is huge. I just read a long article by David Gladwin in the Aug/Sep 2004 Jet Int Mag about fuel systems which got me properly paranoid! Also inspired by your beautiful Airworld Me 262 Dave, my next project and already fully funded, but an EDF for me.

dubd

In all the years I have been modeling, I've never known a rep to be as consistently right as Dave Wilshere, so I would be very confident with his recommendation on the fuel set-up as well.