superfli

My Feedback: (42)

I had the same problem with my GUS. I hated all that lead in the nose. I then replaced my 26cc engine and mounted a G38 with a B&B mount and magneto ignition. It then balanced perfectly. It also flys very well with this setup.

Superfli

SkyPilot101

Extend your firewall using 1&1/2 inch aluminum standoff's and 3/8 inch ply false firewall. Bolt your DLE Standoff's to that, easier than constructing a new mount box from ply

SCOTT42

My Feedback: (1)

I put the maiden flight on mine today and all i can say is WOW! It has so much power with the DLE 35, its insain! And thats with it running rich during the break in, i flew 3 tanks thru it today with a total of 30-40 min air time. What a great plane this is.

SCOTT42

My Feedback: (1)

Lets try this and see if it loads now.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Congrats and good luck with her.

opjose

Yup, IMHO that is a perfect match!

We are using Giant Big Stiks with 20cc DLE engines as club trainers, and with a 16x6 or 17x6 prop, the plane has more power than we expected.

It does not have a greater than 1:1 power to weight ratio, but it can hover with this relatively tiny engine.

A 35cc such as yours is perfect.

Once the engine is broken in, you may as well set your flight timer for 18-20 minutes. You'll find that the plane will fly at least that long with the default tank.

On my 35cc equipped Stik that's where I have my timer set. On our trainers we get 30+ minutes per tankful.

Did you set the flaps to work as ailerons too?

I have my Stik configured as a GLIDER on my JR 9503.

That lets me use the flaps as ailerons or flaps and provides for elevator to flap mixing in both as reflex and snap flaps, or at the flip of a switch the flaps go back to normal operation, or for CROW.

I was happy to discover that this is very easy to do with a powered glider configuration.

Good luck. You're going to be very happy with your plane.

SCOTT42

My Feedback: (1)

That's a good idea that I haven't thought of, at one time I had a 60 size set up that way but with my dx7 I cant seem to find a setup in my radio for that. I don't have tha manual for my radio and I have looked at the online pdf and I don't see a glider setup for that radio so Im not sure I can do it with the dx7.

opjose

Here is a link to the manual...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SPM7800-Manual_EN.pdf

[link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SPM7800-Manual_EN.pdf]DX7 manual -just in case...[/link]

The DX7 doesn't have a separate glider setting but you can do exactly the same thing by choosing a "wing type" of "2 Ail, 2 Flaps".

That will permit all of the fancy mixing...

Remember that you'll want SNAP FLAPS as one mix, and Full Wing Ailerons on another.

Then choose the activation switches to be somewhat mutually exclusive.... so you are not activating both at the same time....

You'll end up using all seven channels, so a TX controlled choke or kill switch may not be in your future...

You could free up one channel by hooking the ailerons together via a "Y" cable, and still have snap flaps, inboard ailerons, etc... you'll only loose differential ailerons which is not a big deal on this plane.

opjose

Some more info:

[link=http://www.rc-soar.com/spektrum/#fourservo]Click me![/link]

j301

My Feedback: (12)

So this thread has been around for a while now and I figured since the responses are still coming in from time to time I would throw in my plans for the GBS I just received from tower. For a little background this will be my first plane of this size, usually fly 60 to 120 size (typically warbirds). I did have a 60 size stick that flew great until it's elevator clevis failed (the moment I stopped using supplied nylon clevises) that had a 91fx on it. Great flyer.

A couple of years ago I bought a TGY 52 gasser from Hobby King, mostly because I was curious and it was a relatively cheep gamble. Not finding much info about the motor I kind of just set it aside until a couple of months ago when I decided to see if the motor even ran. I mounted it and checked the timing, it was about 50 deg.b.t.c. I could only get it down to 40 deg with the way the hull sensor mounted so I drilled and tapped new holes and now it right around 29/30 deg btc. The best I can get so far is 6300 with a Xoar 20/8. I know the general consensus on this motor is that it has the power of a 40/45 cc which is ok as its not all that heavy, but not something I would want to stick in the nose of a 50cc warbird having to huff so much more nose weight to balance. (if anyone has any timing/tuning experience with the TGY 52, any advice would be greatly appreciated!)

Given this and how forgiving a stick is, I thought it would be a great match to test this unknown motor on. And if it doesn't work out, I have a Webra Bully 35 I recently brought back to life with the help of Speedy G and Captn John (thanks guys) that I know can take over, even though its destiny is hopefully the ESM Val if I ever get the spare dough!

I want to try the multi-flap setup, make it a tail drager, and have sent off some ideas to Callie at Callie Graphics to set off this one a bit from the stock version. It will have metal gear servos and Robart hinge point as well, and if anybody has a line on good switches that will stand up to the vibration of a gasser let me know.

I'll post some pics once I get going if anybody is still watching.

TunnelBill

My Feedback: (58)

I started working on this GUS last fall. I'm glad to have it finished.

Heli-NuBee

Hi Guys,

I tried to do a search but could not find out what size the wheels are on the Giant Stik. I will be using a 20" prop and would like to know if I will need to use larger diameter wheels to get adequate prop clearance. Thanks for your help.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

opjose

I believe that the stock wheels are between 3.5" and 3.75" in diameter.

On our club trainers I changed out all of the wheels ( set up as a trike ) to 4.5" wheels for more clearance and better grass landing performance.

Heli-NuBee

Thanks Opjose, with the 20" prop, should I go to 5" wheels or 6" wheels as a tail dragger?

opjose

Remember that with a tail dragger the nose points upwards a bit even during landings and takeoffs so you have a bit more clearance.

We are using 17 & 18" props in the trike configuration and we could probably switch to 20" props and still have 1" clearance.

So I would advise going to the 5" wheels or 6" wheels if you will use a different tail wheel too.

The stock tail wheel will have your plane in a very nose up attitude when it sits level on the ground... a larger tail wheel may also help.

I use 2" tail wheels on my personal Giant Big Stik ( tail dragger setup ) swinging an 18" prop.

With 4.5" Williamsbrother's scale vintage wheels, there is plenty of prop clearance... well over 3.5" or so.

Going from 18" to 20" you only need an additional 1".

Heli-NuBee

Thanks Opjose, I really appreciate your input. It seems as though 5" wheels with a larger tail wheel will probably be adequate for the Stik.

Thanks again,

Best wishes and good safe flying,

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

j301

My Feedback: (12)

While on the topic of wheels, I need some opinions. I had bought a pair of wheels from Hobby King for a great planes PT-17 as the 5" foam wheels I bought for it tend to get flat spots very quickly. They are also 5", but seem really heavy, about 7 oz each with the "hubcap." I was thinking the big stick might not notice the load, but I kind of worry about adding just under a pound just for wheels! Any thoughts or opinions would be great, thanks!

opjose

I'm in the same boat... I put 3 - 4.5" foam wheels on our trainers and they wore out VERY quickly. I have replaced them with wheels similar to those.

I can tell you that the wheels you are thinking of are going to make almost no change to your Big Stik.

I put TWO POUNDS of batteries in this plane, Fults Re-enforced front gear, B&B specialties main gear re-enforcements, heavy wheels, and all sorts of stuff to beef up our club trainers, plus I had to add nose weights.

Our club trainers weight 5.5+ lbs MORE than my personal Stik and they fly great. Our club trainers have rather lowly 20cc DLE engines in them too. While my personal Stik has a SYSSA 30cc engine and LiFe packs.

Of course I get better performance, but the bottom line is that the change you are contemplating will not hurt.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks opjose, I didn't want to add the weight to the Stearman, but it wasn't a case of them wearing out, if I take it off its stand for more then a minute the Dave Brown Lite Flites would get a considerable flat spot and then its wobble wobble wobble..... I am rolling along with the build, have the 52 mounted and need to figure out some throttle linkage. Speaking of my Great Planes PT 17, I thought it was the exception when it came to loose covering, but this stick took several hours, and a new heat gun (old one couldnt take it!), I finally got it under control. Here is a pic of what it looked like out of the box.....(anyone else had this issue?)

Heli-NuBee

I am going to do something a bit different with my Laser 300V engine. I am going to install the engine on a GP Giant Big Stik. This should be a fun aircraft to fly with the 300V. I picked this plane for my test bed because the engine is open to the air for cooling and access to carbs and fuel lines is easy. One of the concerns I have about the 300V is the fact that the carbs are located approx 3" above the center line of the crankshaft. Most planes are set up for the center of fuel tank outlets to be approx on the center line of the engine crankshaft. I am not sure that I can locate the tank on the Stik where the tank outlets are at the same level as the engine carbs. Has this been an issue for anyone else?

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

j301

My Feedback: (12)

What about using a Perry Pump? Wouldn't that solve the feeding issue? There is also quite a bit of room in the fuel tank compartment, I'm sure you could get a top fed tank and move all the way up, that should buy some room.

Heli-NuBee

I received my GP Giant Big Stik from Tower Hobby today. The build will start tomorrow. I'm looking forward to getting this plane in the air with the Laser 300V power plant.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

Penda

I'm wanting to build a Ultra Spad Stick and use a Ryobi 31cc engine and tricyle landing gear, so Ihave a few questions about the Big Stick.

1. What are the dimensions of the firewall? width and height.

2. Does anyone have a Big Stick with a Ryobi or larger gas engine with tricycle landing gear? What type of engine mount do you have?

I've seen gas engine Bick Sticks and the landing gear works as a tail dragger. I can get the Big Stick landing gear at Tower, but I'm not sure it will work as tricycle- prop clearance, etc. The USShas a firewall about 4"x 4", so if I use a Wacker or Jag engine mount there may not be space to mount the front landing gear. I think I'll probably have to use a standoff type engine mount or make my firewall bigger.

Thanks!

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

the only mount for a Ryobi I have seen is a piece of squire aluminum stock cut so it can mount over the rear carb and mount to the engine using the back plate screws. Its about 3" squire.

if there is another type out there I haven't seen it.

I can post a pic of the one I have if it helps...

Bill S.

Heli-NuBee

I am making pretty good progress on my GP Stik build. I used heavy duty Dubro nylon hinges on the ailerons and flaps and 3/16" Robart round hinges on the elevator and rudder. I don't use CA hinges on larger airplanes because I had CA hinges fail on a larger airplane a few years ago. I am also using Hitec 645 MG servos on all surfaces. I just received the ARF last Thursday evening and the wing is complete and the fuselage is about 1/3 done.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)