codiddley

My Feedback: (4)

It's been a few years since I've been in here. But I'm back!
I just pulled the trigger on the AMR 33% Waco. I'm going to make mine into a UPF-7/ JMF-7 and make a scale model of Kyle Franklins Mystery ship. I'm set on the new Evolution 260cc Radial for power, but it might take a year or two before I have enough money to pay for the thing!

I wanted to thank everyone in this thread for your great builds, and information on these beautiful Waco's!

WacoNut

That should make for a sweet build.
Hopefully the modifications don't drive you up a wall. Post your build when you get to it.
Later!!
Anthony

skylarkmk1

codiddley,

Before you get started, get a copy of Paul Matts drawings of both the U/YMF and the UPF. They are available thru http://windcanyonbooks.com/ look under Paul Matt Drawings and get the large size 18" x 24" and study them both and compare. You will find that there are quite a few differences. It is not as simple as making the top wing flat and calling it a UPF. The fuselage has the most differences - It is more rectangular in the rear, the stab is almost flush with the top (and over 3 times as thick as the YMF stab), the belly is not straight (kind of looks like a sway back horse belly on a UPF). The wings have a plywood perimeter to them, the cabanes are different, cockpit shape and details are much different. The landing gear is much wider in the UPF and the cross struts are way different. About the only similar part between the two is the lower wing (don't forget the plywood perimeter) and the "N" struts are mounted in different locations. You may end up building both planes using the YMF as a basis for the UPF design build. Too many parts to toss otherwise. By the way, Kyle's Mystery ship has been done, look on You-Tube.

FMBB

Hi Mike,

you are welcome, I go now downstairs to continue my built a Waco and a prototype of a new model just finished the design and first CNC cuts of the fuselage parts. Its again a bipe, hopefully may get airborne next spring or if time for building it is sufficient may be end of this year.

Peter
Brother #170

Dash7ATP

Mike,Here is how I did the N-Struts on my 1/5 Scale Pica. You may be able to make a few changes and make it work on your model. I used the 5/8" aluminum streamline struts from K & S. It worked out pretty well.A few more photos of the finished strut if I can find them.

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

Dash7ATP,

Thanks for the pictures. On the struts, I did check with Glen Torrence and he offers something not quite as wide as my plan calls for. As far as adjustment goes, Peter Barth has more or less convinced me no adjustment is required if it's set up right. I'm going to look a bit more for some aluminum struts that match the scale dims. If I can't find anything, I can pick up your 1/5 scale design and adapt. I'm not building an exact replica for scale competition, but something close that looks good and flies well.

Mike Hopkins

Brotherhood #132

Dash7ATP

I am assuming that this panel os the one just in front of the cabane struts . I made a very reasonable looking panel (I haven't done a final version yet) myself very easily. You will need a piece of aluminum flashing which is pretty soft. I made a punch from the end of a metal angle brace I got at the hardware store. Your drawing appears to me to be a little larger that what I did. I'm not sure of the exact size it should be. In any case,. The piece would need to be 3/4" wide in your case and about 1/8" thick. File it to the approximate shape of the inside of your louvers. The open end should be a sharp edge. Now place your aluminum piece on a piece of soft wood and use your "punch" to make a louver. In order to have it look right you will need to make some guides so the punch will be in the proper position for each one. A piece of thin balsa CA'ed to be back side (Inside) along the straight edge and 1/4" wide between them should keep everything lined up. You can pop the balsa off when finished.Joe

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

In my Barth 1/3 Waco build, the tail has about 30 or so lightening holes of two diameters through 3/32 sheeting. I was afraid to use a standard hole saw because I thought it would tear up the light balsa. So I bought two water pipe copper couplings to approximate hole diameters on plan. It turned out that they would just slip on two of my hole saw blades. The saw blades are just slightly larger in diameter at the saw kerf so it's a light tap into position. Just sharpen the end of copper coupling like a punch and it's ready to go. Cut a clean hole through sample. The center drill from hole saw keeps it from wandering See attached photos.

This may be old news to more experienced builders.

WacoDream

Thank you very much Joe! I'm gonna give this a shot.

Dash7ATP

Mike,Here are a few shots of the tool I made. It is 5/8" wide rather than 3/4" . I have been planning to do another panel, but I have gotten lazy now that the model is almost finished. I guess I can always do it later.Joe A few more comments. On my first one, shown here, I actually used a piece of bass wood cut to the same radius of the top of the model. Bass wood has almost no grain that "might" affect the way your punch goes through the aluminum. The concave backing along with filing the end of the punch to the approximate same curve, ensures that your finished louvers will conform to the curve of the model. I just punched out a second panel using a flat backing. and the louvers just don't look as good as the ones done on the curved backing.

LesUyeda

"This may be old news to more experienced builders. "

I think I would have put the bevel on the inside to keep a square edge on the hole.

Les

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

Les,

You are right. Thanks for spotting it. I'll fix it. Over the years I've gotten lots of good advice here.

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood #132

codiddley

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the link!

I know it has been done, but it has been done poorly. The guy that made the 40% in AUS just painted a YMF-5 in the Mystery Ship scheme and put a turbine on the belly. He didn't even get his engine centered in the cowl! That does not count. Not even close. Might as well paint a Datsun Z like a Ferrari. The only real attempt at making a UPF/ JMF-7 conversion I have seen was done by an acquaintance, and he covered in black solartex, rattle canned some silver scallops on it, and called it good. It's an amazing plane, but he built his to fly, and not to win static contests. I'm hoping mine will do both! He was kind enough to send me a pile of build pictures, and links to his sources on the gear and other fiberglass parts. The shape of his tail isn't quite right, and it was Jimmy Franklins "Jet Waco." Not Kyles Mystery ship. Very similar, but different airplanes and N numbers.

I know I'm splitting hairs, but if I'm going to wrap up the time and money required into this plane, it's going to be as close to right as I can make it. This will be my once in a lifetime scale build. Hopefully it will compete in the lower scale classes as I'm not spending an additional $1,000 on scale flying wires, or hiding my servo's and linkages. I spent over 300 hours restoring old Waco's in my younger days, and have always wanted one of my own, but, since I'm no millionaire this will have to do.

Thanks guys-

Here is a pic of my friends conversion-

WacoNut

My 1/3 Waco is almost ready,
I have just a few details remaining to add and it will be ready for maiden #2

Later!!
Anthony

WacoDream

Joe Thanks so much for the tips. Really appreciate it. I think 5/8 for the tool is the right dimension. Your louvers came out really nice. I'll try to replicate this as best as possible.

yel914

Beutiful job Anthony! Bet you're glad to be at the end that redo. Good luck on the remaiden.

WacoNut

Thanks,
Yes I am glad to be finished. You would not believe the amount of hours I have put into this thing since December.

A little word of caution, when we spend so much time building and not flying there is a penalty. We lose out edge on flying. I had considered myself a pretty good pilot and could hold my own. I spent 20 months building the Waco originally and no flying during that time. I finished the plane and put 2 flights on. I set the plane aside and built a 1/3 Cub over a 3 month span and put 5 flights on it at the end of the flying season. The next spring I developed shoulder issues and didn't do any flying that season as I had to have surgery. Fast forward to the next spring and I put about 6 flights on my 1/3 Cub. Landings were a bit shaky but all was OK. I decided to fly the Waco. Big mistake. I was nervous during the whole flight and I just got in over my head and got too slow on landing. I stalled the plane at about 10ft of altitude and bounced it up off the runway for a 2nd stall and wing drop resulting in destruction of the plane.

I spent the rest of the summer licking my wounds and flying as much as possible. I put in over 100 flights last summer and I will put at least 30 flights in on my other planes this sping before the Waco see's the air again. You can loose your edge by not flying often. If you do not feel comfortable don't fly. From now on I will always keep a sport plane or two ready to fly just to keep me up on my flying skills.

Later!!
Anthony

airplanegeek

great advice Anthony. that is why i have a couple of electric arfs. Quick and easy practice to keep you sharp. Awsome job on the rebuild.. good luck

LesUyeda

"Les,
You are right. Thanks for spotting it. "

You're welcome. I just hate to see others make the same mistakes that I have made.

Les

WacoNut

My Waco is now complete minus balance.
Here is a pic, if you want to see more pics here is a link to the build thread. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8053911/mpage_120/tm.htm]Waconut's repair[/link]
Later!!
Anthony

Jim Henley

Gorgious..

WacoNut

Thanks Jim,
Now if I can just keep it in one piece. I cannot stand the thought of building it a 3rd time
Anthony

aminiet

Excellent work, again.
Angel
WB 58

WacoDream

Joe - your coaching on the louvers worked great. Here my first prototype. Not quite happy with it yet but feel with a couple more prototypes I'll be able to get these to turn out OK. Thanks again!

WacoDream

Lights working! Whew that was a lot of wires and soldering. I used 32 gauge magnetic wires rather than the pre-made light cables to save weight and it was tedious work. Saved a few ounces though so worth it for this 1/5 scale. Controller from rc-lights.com works great. 2 channel option so the landing lights turn on with the Gear switch and an Aux channel for the navs / strobes and beacon. Cant wait to see them in the air.