diabolic-mind

hahaha i know, now that i have a good amount of extra money flowing in im debating on going all out on this car or slowly building it up and getting some other toys too! after looking on ABC hobby's site i now want several of the cars on there, right now though i am most interested in the rtr awd crx and the skyline, both are awesome looking cars, the detail is just ridiculous! the cr-x looks just like the old model cr-x i had, i might do the exact same paint scheme on it too, it was grey with a wide chrome racing strip down the right side (hood,roof, and hatch) with a narrow strip beside it, and bright orange accents, i miss that car!

now if i find momo 5 star wheels for the ABC hobby cr-x with the paintable section on the rims too then i would def have to buy that cr-x lol

gokemidoro

My advice? Don't spend too much on the M05. It will attain a certain level of performance, and you won't get it any better, no matter how much you put into it. I know of a few guys who have spent GOBS of cash on their M05's, and any of my ABC Hobby Grids will blow their doors off! The Grid will also take to hotter power systems better than the M05, as well. If you go Genetic, get the "Naked" model with Carbon Chassis. It costs about $100 more (roughly) than the plastic chassis Genetic, but has a LOT more going for it, not the least of which is handling, because of the lower weight. I have one of those, and I won't give it up for anything! They don't come with bodies, however, so you're not locked into any one body type. As far as those wheels you want......I'm not sure you'll find the exact style, since not many companies make too many wheels for "M" class cars. With that in mind, I don't really take wheel style very seriously, but body detail is excellent with ABC cars, no? That's part of the allure with those models. Just don't waste your money on a Goose. RWD don't drive nearly as well as 4WD or FWD. I have a Goose, and though it's a fun basher, it will never be as fast as either the Grid or Genetic. Take a look at their option parts, too!! I suggest the front one way for the Genetic, and the extra spring sets for the Grid. Forget the shiny steel shocks - they leak like crazy, and aren't any better than the stock plastic friction ones. They are also microscopic, and EXTREMELY hard to assemble! The ABC Hobby option servo savers are also great additions. The one thing that will impress, as soon as you get the Grid fully kitted, is just how well it drives! The Grid will immediately show it's potential, and you will see just how restricted the M05 really is. The Genetic is F-A-S-T! With grip tires on it, it's a bottle rocket! It corners like it's got flypaper for tires! I modded mine for drift, and it will even do that! In fact, the Genetic in drift trim, is one of my better drifters! Soooooo........Don't spend too much time debating........Just go get one or the other, or BOTH! You won't be disappointed with either the Grid or Genetic! THAT much, I GUARANTEE you!!!

diabolic-mind

yeah im kind of set on the genetic, looks and sounds like a IMPRESSIVE machine! price point isnt that bad either honestly, not for what your getting, and from the videos i have seen they do deliver! i might want to invest in a bokshelf to start keeping all my toys on lol, i have a feeling come summer ill have a nice little collection

gokemidoro

The "Naked" Genetic is an excellent choice. You can fit it with a 13.5T BL system, and it will fly! Anything hotter than that will make it "push" like the M05. One tip..........In making your choice of servo, make certain it is of high-enough quality with the Naked Model. I got a cut-rate lo-pro servo for it, and the carbon made the servo glitch really badly. I know Hitecs won't, and I tried a Spektrum S6070 lo-pro in my Losi JRXS-R, which is also a thick carbon chassis, like the Genetic, and the S6070 doesn't glitch. I have a Traxxas 2075 in the Genetic now, and it's not fast enough for drift, so I will get another S6070 to put in it. One last tip.........When you get the Genetic, go over the chassis, BEFORE you attach anything to it. ABC is notorious for shipping out their stuff adjusted all-over-the-place, and with screws and bolts/nuts loose. Just make sure everything that's supposed to be tight is tight, and things that require adjustment are adjusted with as little slop in them as possible. The steering rack is one such area. There are two nuts to tighten, and if you snug them, then back them off, until the rack slides nice and easy, it's adjusted correctly. The "Droop" screws are another. Make absolutely certain the chassis is level. I adjust mine on the kitchen bar table. Just make sure the surface is nice and flat, so each wheel gets adjusted evenly with the others. Also, having the one-way will give you three wheels putting down power, instead of just two. The downside is, a one-way removes brakes and reverse from the front wheels, so if you need to stop in a hurry, the Genetic will take much longer to stop, so your driving habits will have to be altered to make sure it won't slam into a barrier or curb/wall/tree. You can get away with using a spool (which ABC also offers!) up front, and you will have brakes and reverse, but the car will "chatter" in corners, and the front tires will wear faster, so bear that in mind, when choosing either one-way or spool. You can get away with just the ball diffs that come with it, but either the one-way or spool will get you better acceleration, and MUCH better cornering!

diabolic-mind

awesome thanks for the tips, i think i have decided that with the M05 im just going to upgrade the esc and motor in it and call it good, maybe get some better tires for it too as well as adjusting the toe angle like you said, if i do ever break any steering parts i will probably upgrade to the aluminum parts, but im pretty happy with how it drives sofar. this will save me some money towards a ABC hobby car . as for the radio and receiver i think im going to get a spektrum radio with 10 model memory, then just grab spemtrum receivers for my cars as i need them and use the one radio for them all, then im saving on batteries, and also wont need to drag multiple radios with me when i go out for a driving day lol.

gokemidoro

On the M05's steering parts, stick to plastic. Ever try pricing aluminum parts for the M05? EXPENSIVE! The knuckles and rear uprights are pricey! It's why I still run plastic on my M05's. Just the front steering knuckles are like $50! Good choice on Spektrum, but I'm partial, since I own a few Spektrum radios. The DX3C is a great, affordable radio that has most of the features of the DX3R and DX3R Pro, at 1/3rd the price of either the DX3R or Pro models. The SR300 sport receiver is the least expensive receiver Spektrum sells, and works just as well as their other, more expensive receivers. I use my DX3R for my 1/10th scale, and my DX3C for my minis, so I can tell which is for what, when I go out!

diabolic-mind

the dx3c is the one i was looking at too, i looked quickly this morning before work, and the price on it wasnt bad at all. i was originally going to just grab one of those 20 or 30 dollar 2.4ghz radios from hobby king, but then i though, why not just do a one time buy and get a quality radio once, rather than several cheap radios, i got a little extra cash to play with, might as well go for something good

gokemidoro

The DX3C isn't Spektrum's flagship, the DX3R Pro, but for the price, you get 95% of what the DX3R Pro has - the only things it doesn't have is a timer and a dropped wheel, which is "racer level" stuff, anyway. My DX3R is same with the Pro model, except it doesn't have the dropped wheel. I don't miss it. Besides, the DX3C has it's LED readout in an easy to glance at place, the right side. The DX3R, you have to drop down, because it's readout is on the top rear. Between the two I rather like the DX3C, because it comes with different grip sizes (3), which the DX3R doesn't come with, and I have rather big paws, so the DX3R's grip is somewhat smallish. You're going to really like the DX3C. You'll have EXPO adjustments to play with, and they really help tailor power output, and steering "feel." If you get a programming-adjustable ESC, there will be almost endless flexibility. Also, with a fast servo, you can tailor that with EXPO, to steer fast at the beginning of travel, or near the end! With a "so-so" servo (.12 - .18 transit speed), it's speed can be tailored to a point where you no longer notice how slow it is, though I recommend you get a fast one, to begin with. The advantages may not be apparent reading this, but take my word for it, fast servos make a HUUUUGE difference! The DX3C is also easy on batteries. A set of four alkalines will last quite a while! One set lasts me an average of three months, the DX3R a little less. Yep, the DX3C is a great choice!

diabolic-mind

HAHAHA nice, good to hear, what is the purpose of expo? i had a radio that came with a crawler i had years ago and i didnt notice much of a difference using it, although im not entirely sure i was doing it right either lol. i also had a question, when i put the traxxas XL-5 in the M05, would the M05 fit a 550 motor? i see that the traxxas rustler uses the XL-5 esc and also uses a 550 motor, so i was wondering if one would fit, and if it would be of any noticeable difference in performance if it did. i know it would add some weight to the car, but it seems weight isnt an issue, i read that people actually add weight to these cars. ive always been one of those "lets drop some weight from it" kinda people, but with this car weight doesnt seem to be a concern

gokemidoro

The Traxxas Titan is a 12T. Put that in the M05 (not sure it's even possible, because the Titan is also larger in diameter), and it's overweighted on the left side, and will affect handling in a negative way. Yes, weighting is important with the M05, since it is "light" on the right side, so weight should be added to that side to make it corner evenly. The Titan is also waaaaaay overkill. The M05 won't be able to turn. As I stated earlier, anything faster than a 27T will only introduce more problems for the M05. All it will do is push and push. No, weight is not a concern for the M05, since it's chunky to begin with, but it does have to be evenly distributed, which Tamiya didn't do a good job of, in it's design, which is why it requires weight to be added to it's right side (where the motor is) -And what EXPO does is gives you the option of having "linear" response, or "progressive" response. In the DX3C, putting EXPO on the positive side (+) will alter response so that the ESC/servo will respond slower, and adjusting it to the negative (-) will "quicken" it. Not adjusting it at all will leave response linear, or even, across trigger travel. Testing it out with steering is easier to see. Some people don't use it, but I do, if whatever car I have doesn't have the right "feel," and EXPO works well to fine tune it to my driving style.

diabolic-mind

ok, so today i went and bought some traxxas white lithium gear grease, and got the gearbox bearings. got those installed. i also adjusted the toe out like you suggested. just as i finished assembling it before i mounted the electronics for it, the people i got it from sent me a message asking if i would interested in what, surprise surprise, a traxxas XL-5 esc for 35 bucks! i was like UMMMM YES, bring it on over red rover lol. so im soldering deans plugs onto the new esc in about 20 minutes, but im wondering, will the tactic 210 reciever i have in it work with the XL-5 esc? i sure hope so, i want to try it out! and how will the stock motor handle this esc? im still running the 20 tooth pinion on the stock motor too.

gokemidoro

The Tactic is a modern TX/RX, so it should work fine. Same-same the XL-5 with stock motor. It's rated for 15T motors, so it will work. No worries with the 20T pinion. Tamiya already did the math with it, so it's fine. You're going to notice a definite performance gain with the tires pointed properly! Let me know how it all works out!

diabolic-mind

GRRRRR, down the the final steps, soldering the deans plugs on and im out of solder, NOOOOOOOO. i stood at the hobby shop earlier for a good 15 minutes saying, i know im forgetting something, and now i remeber, damn it lol. looks like this will have to wait until i get out of work tomorrow to finish

gokemidoro

LOL! Not to make fun of your situation, but I had the same problem about a month and a half ago! Ran out of solder at 10:00PM on a Saturday..........Wanna talk about mad? I ended up getting the right size wire at Radio Shack on sunday, so it didn't go all that bad, but I feel for ya, because I've been there! Oh, well.......Let me know how it goes! I think you'll be pleased!

diabolic-mind

well, final got some solder today, got a 60 watt soldering iron too, what a difference the iron made! so i got everything soldered, got the xl-5 in it now and the bearings in the gearbox, havent drove it yet but i powered it up and blipped the throttle, and oh my god, the scream coming from the tires now is def way louder than before, im guessing its just the xl-5 esc stuffing more power to the motor. i have a question for you though, my buddy was saying that the motor draws the amps from the esc, not the esc gives the amps to the motor, is this true? i ask because the stock esc was only 60amp, and the xl-5 has a max of 100amps, so i wasnt sure if it translates to much more power to the wheels or if in the case of what he is saying the motor draws more amps. in any case im sure this esc is leaps and bounds better than the stock esc. and you were right, the esc is compatible with the tactic reciever that is in it, only issue though is when i plug in the battery to the esc it doesnt automatically turn on, and theres no switch, i have to press the button on the esc a few times for the light to come on, not sure if this is normal

diabolic-mind

got a short test drive in, and my battery wasnt fully charged, but from what i could see, the difference in speed was much much better, but i may end up going with a lower turn motor, buddy at a local hobby shop has a reedy radon 540 size 17t motor i want to try, and i immediately noticed a drastic difference in handling off the bat with your toe out suggestion, straight lines at speed were much smoother and during cornering it was much much more locked in, seemed like i was driving a completely different car. disabled the lvd on my xl-5, and waiting for the battery to0 fully charge (really need a quick charger) then giving it another run with a full pack to see how she does. i already have a feeling that it will be a whole new monster to drive though

ToraKitsu

I'm working through a sinus headache, so if some things don't make sense, bear with me. O.K.? Your friend is right - the motor draws from the ESC, so yes, you would see a marked improvement, not the least of which is attributable to the Dean's plug, which supplies the XL-5 with the proper flow to do so. One caveat - stick with the 27T motor. Going to a 17T will introduce more problems that I guarantee you, you will not be able to solve. I've already been there, as many others have, and the M05 is limited by them, and they are in it's basic design. If you wanted to make it a "velodrome" car, it wouldn't matter, but if you want something that turns as well as it goes, the M05 is best fitted with the 27T.The XL-5, you have to keep the set-up button pressed for a second or two, then release, to turn off and on. Do that, and you shouldn't have any problems. All Traxxas ESC's are like that. At this point, the best advice I can give is for you to weight the right side of the chassis. Stick weights to the chassis plate where the motor is. You'll know the weight is right, when you can turn equally (the car will slide) left and right. Right now, the car will turn sharply in one direction, and slide out in the other. Get it so it does the same thing (either sharp turn or slide) in both directions. If it slides out, reduce steering dual-rate. If it turns sharply, your dialed!

diabolic-mind

ok, i just figured the 17t motor would give me more speed, and seeing as most on my runs are on a large oval shaped section of my parking lot, i figured more speed wouldnt hurt, i have no problem braking early to make the turns and then punch the throttle halfway through the turn to start gaining speed. the esc was set for lipo, so i switched that to the nimh setting so that the lvd doesnt cut it down to 50% throttle. i was thinking, what if i have the reciever mounted on the right side, (as it is right now) then mount the esc above it using the transponder mounting piece so that the esc is on the right side of the car also? would this make a difference? i was thinking instead of adding weight, what if i were to relocate what i can relocate to the right side to give the right side more weight.

another thing i was thinking, i just read today that this esc can handle a peak voltage of 12.6volts. so what if i got a battery with either 8 or 9 cells or added cells to a battery to increase the voltage, what im thinking here is, i could make a hump pack, but put the extra cells at one end of the battery pack, and slide them in through the right side, so that the extra cells are on the right side of the car, balancing the car out by adding more weight to the right side. i could pretty easily do this, it would give me the extra speed im looking for, and also balance the car out without switching to a motor with (is 17t considered higher or lower that a 27t?) (im not sure of the terminology lol, 17t seems like it would be called lower turn, so illsay lower turn) lower turn motor, just a thought, you have been spot on sofar with your advice, but i do want more top speed, so if you can point me in the right direction there id be grateful. ill be willing to sacrifice some cornering for top speed, as i have a very large area to drive it, and i dont drive on a tight corner track

ToraKitsu

Well, it's up to you, but be aware that more speed means more "push", or understeer, which you will not be able to get rid of, as long as you run faster motors. LOL! No, the receiver weighs only a few grams....you'll need somewhere around a couple of ounces to balance the chassis! No worries about adding weight - this is normal with the M05. My first M05 (M05 Pro) uses 1 3/4 oz of stick-on weights where the motor "hump" is, on the right side. My S-Spec, since it has the motor heatsink, uses only 1/4 oz. I've seen M05's with as much as 2 1/2 oz of added weight. Every M05 is different, so I can't give you an exact, because I don't know what your M05 would work best with. You'll have to work that out, but stick with whatever battery fits in the chassis slot. I wouldn't mess with extra cells, as they will only cause other problems. The extra voltage isn't necessary, anyway, because it won't increase speed appreciably enough to matter. Btw, are you using LiPos? If so, I wouldn't turn off the LVD. If you're still using NiMhs, the LVD shouldn't be on, anyway. On motors...... use this method - if a motor is rated in turns, 27T, 25T, 17T and so on, the LOWER the number, the higher the rpm level, meaning higher speeds. If rated in Kv (Kilovolts), which most brushless motors are, the higher the number, 5700Kv, 6900Kv, 7700Kv, 9000Kv, etc., the higher the rpm, meaning faster.

diabolic-mind

ok cool. jsut ran it with the stock motor ant the xl-5 with a fresh battery, man it is a completely different car, i can "feel" a difference with the gearbox bearings too, it seems  to coast under its own momentum better now. i deff see a drastic difference with its cornering with the extra power, but it didnt take long to be able to compensate with using driving to still be able to hug corners, in fact there were several times when i oversteered it and hit the concrete curb. but im loving the higher speed. in my parking lot there is a long oval curb in the center that i was driving around, and several of the neighborhood kids were racing around it with the car, and of course the car was faster. i would have to say at a best guess, with the bearings and the xl-5 with the stock motor, im getting around 25% more speed from it, its a huge difference in speed, and that toe out adjustment you suggested, is also a huge difference compared to the toe in that it originally had. at full speed i tap reverse twice then go to about 70% throttle and cut the turn and it just hugs nicely, i can hear the tires kind of chirping, im guessing that is a loss of traction, so i think better tires is next up along with the motor, should i get slicks? i would imagine on blacktop they would have alot better traction as the contact patch is much larger to bite of the road. i also plan to take it to my LHS and run it on his carpet track, id love to see how it goes on a tight circuit track like he has there, at lower speeds this corners like its on a rails, its just mind blowing at times lol

gokemidoro

I just thought of something you may want to pay mind to......remember what I mentioned about extra power stripping the internal gears? You may want to, once you get the new Spektrum TX/RX, to outfit the M05 with a new receiver, and run the power down on the brake/reverse side of the throttle "travel" adjustment. What this will do, is reduce the brake force, so if you grab a handful of brake, that won't strip the internal gears. This is a problem any time you run an M0-5 faster than it was meant to be run, as Tamiya doesn't have metal gears for it, and neither does anyone else. Otherwise, until you do that, I wouldn't be braking much with a hotter motor in your M05 for a while......

gokemidoro

Check out TQRC Racing for tire/wheel combos, if you don't want to glue them up. I buy all my "M" class grip "shoes" from them. Slicks don't make much difference on any surface, but it's the softness of the rubber that does. The "chirp" you hear is "scrub," from the toe-out. It's probably why those folk who had the M05 first, adjusted the toe, in. Take my word for it......look at any M05 set up for racing, and you'll see massive amounts of toe out. It's the only way to get the M05 to turn! Now take the genetic.....if you like how your M05 runs now, the Genetic will make a believer out of you, how much fun "M" class cars are! I've been a fan of "M" class for a few years now, and will never sell any of my "M" class chassis.......even that crappy ABC Hobby Goose (the RWD). They are just too much fun, and are, as a whole, less expensive to work on, and modify! You're just scratching the surface. Get a Genetic, and take the dive in!

diabolic-mind

yean the genetic is my next car, there is no question about that, after the videos i seen on them on a track and hammering it doen, i NEED one lol

ToraKitsu

When you order, make sure you get the front one-way (I got both the front one-way AND the spool, to convert my Genetic to drift and back) diff. That option part makes a huuuuuge difference in performance with it! The Genetic, otherwise, doesn't require much else to perform well. And if you decide to install a BL system in it, make it a sensored one. I just installed an LRP Spin Super in mine, and it makes a BIG difference with power output. Though it uses only a 17.5T motor, I can reduce power to 50% for drift, and re-program to 100% for grip easily! The 17.5T motor may not sound like much, (considering it is on-par with a 27T brushed motor) but it is more than fast enough in the Genetic. I had a 13.5T motor in it, and it was fast, but almost too fast, as it had some issues cornering (lots of "push"). Whatever you decide, however......the Genetic will definitely put a smile on your face!

diabolic-mind

what is the difference between a sensored and sensorless brushless kit?