Notices
Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Old 04-28-2013, 09:51 AM
  #1951  
SJN
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Copenhagen, DENMARK
Posts: 6,325
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

I just bought 2 ASP 80`s for my VQ P-38, and the first thing I did was open them up and check them out.
They were both bone dry inside, so I oiled them up everywhere, and one of the engines was timed a tooth too far.
The valves clearance was nicly adjusted at least, and they where very cheap
Old 04-28-2013, 09:54 AM
  #1952  
Reverend
My Feedback: (3)
 
Reverend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: near Innsbruck, AUSTRIA
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 10 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul


ORIGINAL: fossmarkluni

Can you scan or take a picture of your manual? The discussion regarding leaving the drain nipple open or closed during running has never been closed as far as I can see (in this thread).
If Sanye can't agree with themselves , no wonder

I fell in love with the sound of this engine months ago, and it was even better in real life (I bought it to replace my pesky two smoke ''chainsaw'' engine in my YAK 54 30%, I can't take the sound and vibration from those gassers)

I did not check the RPM's yesterday, but I assume it is better to keep the revs down, especially with that poor lubrication. Just hope that I caught the problem in time, I estimate about 40 seconds of running with that noise before I bailed.
Very pleased how it pulled the 21x10w ASP, great throttle response and good thrust.

Btw, I am using Keleo exhaust ring and Microsens 5LP glow system.

Can you take some pictures of the cam ans followers? Sanye changed the latter, I would like to see if they made any other "improvements".
Maybe I can find a hint.

Rev
Old 04-28-2013, 10:01 AM
  #1953  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

fossmarkluni I just saw your comment about RPM and wanted to say that a new engine should never be over loaded. Its better to let it run fast (within reason, I mean over 8000 is pushing it) with a lightloadthan to really make it work hard with a large prop. Also the faster rpm will help bed the rings in and hammer the valves into their seats. My manual states clearly to use an 18x10 or 20x8 for running in, and I have since found that 20x8 menz props give me a happy engine in the air.
Old 04-28-2013, 12:41 PM
  #1954  
fossmarkluni
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Forsand, NORWAY
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Remember the engine is running very rich during the first minutes and to be honest I really doubt a "lighter" prop would have made any change to the problem I experienced. There was loads of oil gushing out of the drain nipple and a healthy "heli" style smoke coming out of my exhaust. (yes, that means a lot of smoke ) I was really surprised to find out that the front end was running dry, I hope a plug in the drain nipple will improve the lubrication of the front. Needless to say I will be even more careful the next time I run the engine. Btw. has anyone experienced problems with plugging the drain? And one more thing, should the rocker arms and valves be lubricated manually every now and then? There was little oil up there.

Carosel43: Did you find your original ASP manual or didn't your engine have one?

The only thing I need to decide now is should I pull the front and check the cams and timing gears etc. (does anyone have a nice step by step instruction for setting the timing?) I guess it is just removing the cylinder heads and the push rod tubes and then I can pull the front end off.

Old 04-28-2013, 01:03 PM
  #1955  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

I would oil the rockers from time to time, and my engine was an SC. I do have the manual but its somewhat tatty!

Also having an engine rich means nothing if it is over loaded. The idea of running rich is to provide extra lubrication and not to much to remove load. All engine need to reach operating temperature and rpm to run in properly. As a result you need to reach 7000-8000rpm during the run in period. If you use a small prop to reach those numbers you can run the engine richer, ie with more lubrication, but still get within the engines operating window. Another thing is that when piston rings are new they are not a perfect fit in the liners and there are gaps all the way round (microscopically speaking) so with a large load the combustion gasses can blow right past the piston rings through these gaps and hold them away from the cylinder wall. This stops the rings running in correctly and could be an explanation for such large amounts of oil escaping from your breather.

Clearly the small prop will have made no difference to the issue with the squeaky cams but you wont do the engine any good running it very rich for hours and hours at 3000rpm. By all means give it a slow run to get it oiled up inside but then you really have to get some heat and revs into it. Don't go mad, but a 5 second blast at full power (tuned 1/8 turn rich) and then back to 4000 for a minute, then another 5 seconds and back to 4000 etc etc. then on the next tank you can make it 7 seconds, then 8, then 10. when you can hold full power for 10 seconds without sagging, its time to set your idle and get it in the air. After another 10 flights all it well and you can do what you want. But seriously, keep the rpm above 7000. if you look at the bore/stroke ratio its not a long stroke low rpm motor. it wants to rev a bit so let it
Old 04-28-2013, 01:23 PM
  #1956  
fossmarkluni
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Forsand, NORWAY
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

I will check if I have a smaller prop to do the first break-in runs. From what I have read others suggested that it was better to run the ASP 400 with a bit larger prop because peak torque came quite early in the rpm range and to be honest I feel safer with lower RPMs on this beast as the tolerances are quite wide in the valve train and other places. (I do realize that the combustion pressure goes up when I load it with a bigger prob, but the load on the valve train; cams, valves, push rods etc. will inevitably be higher with higher RPM's)

I did not measure the RPM on my first run but I would guess anything from 5500 to 7000 during the "leaner" runs. Next time I will shoot a video and measure the peak and idle RPM.
Old 04-28-2013, 01:35 PM
  #1957  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

There is a balance to be had between the load on the engine from a large prop, and the acceleration loads from high rpm. Given that most model 4 strokes can tolerate well over 10000rpm there should be no problem at the top end of the engine. the limiting factor will be the big end.Given that the stated max rpm (on the ground) is 8000rpm we can assume the engine is stressed for 9000 in the air. With mine doing about 7400 on the ground I am sure its over 8000 in the air when it unloads. As such I wouldn't worry. As an idea though my instruction manual even says an 18x8 can be used. that's a tiny prop for this engine and I think it would go mad.

And while I understand the desire to run a large prop for that radial sound this engine is not designed for that. The Evolution radials are designed with this more in mind and have much longer strokes and lower operating rpm.

It should be noted that props do vary massively and a 21 inch from one brand may be as fast as the 20 inch from another. the rpm is the key more than the actual prop size.
Old 04-28-2013, 01:39 PM
  #1958  
Aluminum Overcast
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

No need to take the entire thing apart just to pre oil....Just shoot some after run or other high quality oil through the crank case nipple and put the engine face down for a few days. Turn it over by hand occasionally and change its orientation to the ground over those days. The oil will find its way all the way to all the parts easily, in fact you will see it slightly seeping out in many areas. I store it the same way although I add a plug once flushed with kerosene and re-oiled. Mine is over 5 years old now and makes gobs of good noises and its easy to start. Engine runs cool and strong on a master airscrew 20X8 (break in prop) and is very miserly on fuel. As I have posted here previously 13.5 minutes at WOT on 16 oz fuel tank using 10% Omega fuel (castor based).
Old 04-28-2013, 01:49 PM
  #1959  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

I also ran the master 20x8 for run in as it was heavy (to help starting) and gave good rpm. I swapped to the menz for flying as the master didn't give the same pull and was quite loud
Old 04-28-2013, 02:01 PM
  #1960  
Aluminum Overcast
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Yes I do not plan to use it for flying I will be using a 3 blade yet to be determined but possibly either Xoar or soloprop for my scale project.
Old 04-28-2013, 02:04 PM
  #1961  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Personally I would stick wit 2 blades. Ihave heard bad things about the solo props really loading up engines and killing the performance and the engine. Its a real shame as they look great! as I say, it only what i have heard but I will only ever use 2 blade props as you cant tell how many its got when its spinning!
Old 04-28-2013, 03:07 PM
  #1962  
Aluminum Overcast
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Not going for ultimate performance really.... its a scale plane my radial will be installed into. There is an old video of a soloprop 20" and asp FS400 combo on a CMP Zero on youtube flying very well with excellent sound too. will use the solo IF I need the extra nose weight and flywheel effect, the Xoar if I need less weight as it is a very light but rigid and efficient prop. I have used 3 blades before and you are correct, they are not as efficient on higher revving engines as a two blade but check out my top flight 60 P40....plenty of performance on a 16X8 3 blade Master Airscrew, later flew with a 16X10 3 blade and will campaign it this year with a 17X8 Xoar 3 blade. the 16X8 was beat to death by the YS 120AC and 30% nitro as the prop was supersonic all the time at full throttle. The 16 X10 3 blade gave better performance but I believe the light 17X8 Xoar will do very well this year. Pic below is my P40 with the 3 blade flying prop from last years season.

ASP +solo 3 blade 20"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrN5o188rAs


Pix below is my P40 with the 3 blade flying prop from last years season. Check my vids on my youtube channel for incremental mods done to the p 40 over the last few years including my maiden, yup, on a 2 blade APC 15X10. With the 2 blade it was unlimited vertical, pretty impressive in a 14 lb. 60 sized airframe. 3 blade are not quite unlimited on this ship but close.

My P40 with H9 P40 playing with the moon. 16X10 3 blade Master Airscrew. Most of the flight is half throttle to 2/3rds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7IxM...Th6XA&index=16


One full power pass here, supersonic with 16X8 3 blade Master airscrew, timecode 03:18 during the 2011 season. 2012 I went to a MAS 16X10 3 blade.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Uk0J...LTh6XA&index=7
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Xv64152.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	142.4 KB
ID:	1876909   Click image for larger version

Name:	Zu64478.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	154.5 KB
ID:	1876910   Click image for larger version

Name:	Af88355.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	53.9 KB
ID:	1876911   Click image for larger version

Name:	Qj20713.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	45.9 KB
ID:	1876912   Click image for larger version

Name:	Iu11525.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	80.4 KB
ID:	1876913   Click image for larger version

Name:	Hy34891.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	128.1 KB
ID:	1876914   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ce72070.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	78.4 KB
ID:	1876915   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ki30479.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	70.4 KB
ID:	1876916  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Nm92570.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	86.0 KB
ID:	1876917   Click image for larger version

Name:	Eq77659.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	51.7 KB
ID:	1876918   Click image for larger version

Name:	In63792.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	83.5 KB
ID:	1876919  
Old 04-28-2013, 06:02 PM
  #1963  
Kmot
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (24)
 
Kmot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 10,958
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

For a quick splash of lube on the cam drum and associated parts in the nose case, just remove the #1 rocker box cover and pour oil down the pushrod tubes. Fill them up to the brim and let it weep past the lifters for a few minutes.
Old 04-28-2013, 06:43 PM
  #1964  
Kmot
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (24)
 
Kmot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 10,958
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

There is a fellow selling his FS400 here on RCU:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=914059

Two things I find intriguing.

1) He lists it as a "Series 3". Okay, anyone else know what makes a Series 3 versus any other series?

2) His manual calls the engine a "400-5R". This is of note, because all previous manuals including mine as well as other literature, test reviews, etc. it is titled as a "400-AR".
Old 04-28-2013, 11:31 PM
  #1965  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

AO, Some amaising work on the TF P40, very very impressive. But I must say if I had a 60 size warbird weigh 14lbs I think I might to cry in a corner for a while Also the YS120 is a very powerful engine so I am sure it took the 3 blades just fine, but it would have been better on 2. In any case its a very impressive model.

As for the solo props its a real suck it and see job I think. they really do look great but I wouldn't dream of using one on an engine that didn't have at least 1.7:1 reduction gearing on it as you can then use a scale Dia at nice low prop speeds while keeping the engine up at good rpm. There is a chap in Norway using a 24x12 3 blade prop on a Laser 200v with a 1.75:1 belt reduction drive. He gets about 4300 on the prop which is approx. 7500 on the engine which is perfect. The model looks fantastic I must say but without the gearbox it wouldn't work


EDIT: I just watched the video one one of the models (the corsair I think) has a lovely whistle to it! Nice to see so many models up at once
Old 04-29-2013, 04:04 AM
  #1966  
BJ64
 
BJ64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,505
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

ORIGINAL: Carosel43

...Its unfortunate that they do not take the time to test run their engines...

ORIGINAL: Carosel43

Kmot I agree 100%. I think the issue is the sanye is assembled dry and so gets into trouble in the first minutes of running...

ORIGINAL: SJN

I just bought 2 ASP 80`s for my VQ P-38, and the first thing I did was open them up and check them out.
They were both bone dry inside...
This is what I suspected from the start with my engine - that it was assembled with no lube anywhere whatsoever.

It only had two short runs on the test bench before the cam gears let go. Hardly surprising in retrospect. I could not believe how dry the front end of my engine was when I opened it up.

During the short runs, there was a lot of oil coming out of the breather pipe (evident by the nice film of slime on my test bed). But probably not long enough runs to push lube up into the front end if it hadn't been pre-lubed to start with. Combined with running up and down the rev range with only the occasional burst of WOT, I don't think the motor stood a chance of throwing enough fuel/oil up past the bearing plate

The front end of my motor was virtually BONE DRY. The tappets had black dust on them instead of sludge, the cam gears showed only a little oil sheen on the predominantly dry oil-hardened metal, the rockers were pretty much the same, and the pushrods looked like they'd been wiped clean with a rag. Plus the main 16003 bearing felt like it had been washed in thinners - squeaky dry.

I can't see that releasing a dry engine like this is normal practice. Unfortunately, it's not simply a matter of pulling a cap off somewhere and giving it a good dose of oil - pulling these things apart to fire some oil in there before your first run is a fair task and not something you'd expect you'd have to do.

As mentioed previously, the only other way is to probably dump a gutfull of oil in there via the breather and stand it on its nose to allow gravity to do the work, and then occasionally turn the motor over by hand to help disperse the oil onto the other moving parts.

Perhaps this is just a batch of engines that slipped through the 'grease and oil-change' section of assembly?

I think prospective ASP 400 owners are all the more wiser if they happen to read this thread before they fire their engine up for the first time.

I'm not sorry I bought mine - not for a minute.

But I am a bit miffed that there seems to be an absence of care and attention to detail regarding pre-run lubrication - even a 2 second spray of WD40 would have alleviated a lot of problems.

And it sure as eggs would have shown up if the engines were test run

BJ
Old 04-30-2013, 07:58 AM
  #1967  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

BJ has hit the nail on the head I think. none of us really regrets buying the engine given that when its working we all love them to bits. But equally we are all frustrated by the small niggling Q/C issues that continue to plague the engine. even if they had to add 50 bucks to the price to pay for a bloke to make sure they were all spot on then I would buy another tomorrow. But as it stands I don't regret buying the one I have, but am unsure if I would buy another.

If I do buy another then it will get a 50/50 oil/methanol bath beforeI run it!
Old 05-01-2013, 12:03 AM
  #1968  
fossmarkluni
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Forsand, NORWAY
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Lubed the baby up and did some more test runs with the drain nipple closed, everything works perfectly. I can see small amounts of oil seeping through the push rod tubes and through the front bearing. After a run I open the drain nipple and there are healthy amounts of oil coming out. I think it is important to drain between runs, because the amount of oil was substantial when I did two runs in a row without draining.

Took my phone out to shoot a quick and dirty video clip [link=http://youtu.be/yTfgU8YQzt0]ASP 400 Second run[/link]
Running very rich, so some misfiring after a long idle run.

No apparent damage from the first "dry" run. But I would really recommend all new ASP 400 owners to put some serious amount of oil into the drain nipple and distribute it by turning the engine by hand. My opinion regarding leaving the drain nipple closed or open is decided (temporarily) , and yes I am leaving it closed and drain between fuel fill ups.

Happy!

Old 05-01-2013, 12:24 AM
  #1969  
BJ64
 
BJ64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,505
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Gotta love that sound

What diam pipe do they use on those professionally made exhaust collector rings?

BJ
Old 05-01-2013, 02:34 AM
  #1970  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

looks and sounds great! time to get that beast in the air

Regarding the drain nipple after about 3 or 4 flights (that's the most I have had in the day with the engine) there is not usually massive amounts of oil remaining. What I tend to do is arrive at the field and start the engine. Let it run at about 3000rpm for about 2 minutes to warm it up and get the oil round it. I then stop, open the plug and let the oil drain for a few minutes before replacing the plug. I then refuel and fly. I do not drain the oil at the end of the day I wait until the next flying session. My logic is why drain out all the oil before you store it? is it not better to keep that oil in there and drain it out a week later (when next flown) and replace it with new oil? anyway, my engine is not rusty...that's about the only thing that's not wrong with it!

I am guessing you have a lot of oil because of the rich mixture you are currently running. I would get it to within 1/4 turn of leaned out and get it in the air to complete the running in
Old 05-01-2013, 03:43 AM
  #1971  
BJ64
 
BJ64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,505
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Do you guys turn these things over by hand in the opposite direction for a couple of revolutions like they do on the big ones to ensure you pump out any flooded oil in the bottom cylinder/s?

I would imagine that you could still get hydraulic lock on even these little'uns if the bottom pots swallowed up enough oil...

BJ
Old 05-01-2013, 09:32 AM
  #1972  
Carosel43
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Yea I always turn mine over a few times before I try and prime it. but as I hang mine from its prop the oil wont drain into the cylinders quite so much
Old 05-01-2013, 05:25 PM
  #1973  
Heli-NuBee
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

OK, sorry but I am posting a couple of things not related to the ASP 400, some of you folks may have and interest. First, I got my Saito 450 radial engine powered Gilmore Red Lion racer running for the first time today. I shot a very poor short video of it running http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkH7V...ature=youtu.be. Sorry for the poor quality but I could not see the screen in the bright sun light. I picked up this engine used in a trade with one of my club members. He tells me this engine has never been in a plane and only has about six bench runs. The engine ran pretty well but does need some run time and some fine tuning. One disappointing thing though was one of the cylinder mounting bolts on cylinder number one that attaches the cylinder to the crankcase broke during the initial runs. I think it is going to be a real pain to remove and replace the broken bolt. Also, I received my new Laser 300 V engine today. WOW! that engine is a real beautiful piece of mechanical art. If the Laser runs half as good as it looks, I will be a very happy camper. Sorry for all of this non ASP 400 related stuff but I am just an old big kid that is tickled with his new toys.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Mk26714.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	41.2 KB
ID:	1878111   Click image for larger version

Name:	Kf13564.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	52.5 KB
ID:	1878112  
Old 05-02-2013, 02:46 AM
  #1974  
tim750r
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Haverhill, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul


ORIGINAL: Carosel43

I do not drain the oil at the end of the day I wait until the next flying session. My logic is why drain out all the oil before you store it? is it not better to keep that oil in there and drain it out a week later (when next flown) and replace it with new oil? anyway, my engine is not rusty...that's about the only thing that's not wrong with it!
Any unburnt methanol in the oil is hygroscopic, so the moisture it attracts will promote rust, and any partially burnt fuel residue will be acidic, so its not really a great idea to leave that hanging around in there unneccessarily. I believe 'recommended practise' is to flush with Kero then add ARO and try to distribute it to all parts of the engine.
Old 05-02-2013, 02:57 AM
  #1975  
BJ64
 
BJ64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,505
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

"ARO" - what's a good mix to use?

BTW - I've had mild steel rust severely when exposed to Kero. I'm a bit wary of using it, as it too seems to be quite hygroscopic...

BJ

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.