JohnP2

I have a Losi 810, and frankly it's my favorite vehicle. I decided I am going to race this before a Mugen MBX6R that I'm about to finish. Everything is stock except the clutch (M2C 3-shoe), which made a WORLD of difference.

This buggy can move!! I want to take full advantage of the "race what you brought" rule in that they don't have tech checks (unless it is a big race). Not looking to turn this into a race monster (yet - although I know it can be). It's really a 1/9 scale buggy. The tank is small as in about 5 minute laps. Oh well. It'll still be fun to race. Not worried about the pull-start as I can start it as fast and easily than anyone with a starter box. This buggy is my baby, and I have it pretty dialed. Anyone with advice on racing this let me know. Say what you want about this buggy, or Losi in general. They make some tremendous vehicles. I'm a big fan of Losi racing! Yes, I know I'll get smoked.....but will have the time of my life doing so with this buggy! ;-)

rccheech

And having fun is what its all about.....nothing more, you go out and have a blast with that thing, after all its what most of us buy them for. I dont care what anyone has, the more racers the more the fun if you ask me, it's people that think like you that makes all the difference and keep this great sport/hobby alive!!!

JoeMaxx

I like the Losi's but I am more of a Team Associated when it comes to American made.Team parts are more common where I live insome hobby shops. They have been going head to head for years and it is a toss up on which R/C is better. Personally I think that they are both equal to anything else in the racing world. It all comes down to the Driver of R/Cs on who wins. The equipment is second.

How is your Mugen MBX6Rkit coming along? Are you almost done building it. What engine did you put into it?Didyou use the Graphite lube on the Pillow Ball suspension that Foxy suggested? Just curious

JohnP2

Yea man there will be some folks saying 'what the heck is that guy running?' and I hope they ask because I will extol the greatness of the Losi 810! I met this guy at our track and he said "I'll race anything/anytime". I thought 'Yea, that's what I'm talking about!!" ;-)

For some reason, this setup uses metric hardware (which I prefer) compared to the standard Losi 8ight 2.0. Very easy car to wrench on.

My Mugen is almost built. I went with the B6/2013 combination. I left the pillow balls dry (after talking to my guy at our LHS). They are smooth as silk. It's something I'll maintain so if I notice any friction I'll dry the graphite lube on them.

JoeMaxx

As I suggested early on in this conversation packing the hex heads with a little cotton ball will keep the dirt out on an open pillow ball suspension.  It keeps it clean.   I do this on my Mugen MTX 3 and 2910 TMaxx.   Lubrication is always an option.   I do not mind using WD 40 beceause it drys and leaves a light oil film on the parts. It is great to also keep dirt off other suspension parts for easy cleanup.    Best thing to clean any Nitro is an Air Compressor to blow the dirt off.   I own two a 3 Gallon and a 35 gallon tank compressor.  

JohnP2

Oh, I'm sure the cotton ball would work. Will run it as is and then see how mucked up it gets. I imagine this is something you want to take off and clean out after every race anyway, so we'll see what accumulates. My LHS guy said run them dry - that is what I'll do (he's yet to steer me in the wrong direction). And yes, I have an air compressor - could not go without one! ;-) Our track even has a cleaning station with one so it's nice not having to bring one.

rccheech

I would run them dry as well, the lube would attract dirt, a friend of mine runs a mugen and he runs them with no lube for that reason, our track is very dry and abrasive.

JohnP2

As an update to the 810, I'm having a little engine problem on the 3.4. After last bashing session, I noticed the engine did not sound right nor performed like it normally does. Visibly, everything looks good, but I'm learning that sound is just (if not more) important.

Below are my symptoms:
1. It sounds different when it idles. Kind of a low-pitched, loud,constant hum (like a loud generator).
2. Thought it was LSN. Did the fuel line pinch test. It revs for 2-3 seconds then cuts out. That is what I want.
3. Temps are okay as is smoke, but the engine is gaining tempswhen at idle (after WOT upfrom 215 to230 then I cut it off).
4. Additionally, engine no longer cuts off when I plug the stinger with my finger. I can do it, but have to make it sealed 100% where normally I just push my finger up against it.
5. Thought it was the exhaust coupling on the engine. There is a little piece missing on the bottom, but I put a new manifold/pipe on it to be safe, and it seems as tight as ever (I used two spring on it as well). ;-)

Tomorrow gonna set the needles to stock and go from there. I'm hoping it just needs to be re-tuned. Else I have a leak somewhere and that will be my first....

rccheech

Sounds to me like a leak, the needles are probably fine. If you are plugging the stinger and its not choking out right away there is a good sign of a leak...probably the front bearing, look for dirt behind the bearing, youll have to remove it.

JoeMaxx

I usually pinch the fuel lines to cut my engines off when running. My new Duratrax 835B came with an Exhuast Plug. Nice I have not seen one of these in years like about 10. They were popular way back when I was getting into Nitros.

Front bearings will leak over time and you will see a oil trail near the clutch when this happens. Little bit of oil is normal for an older engine but extreme leakage may cause an air leak into the engine. Generally from a really worn engine bearing that is not sealing anymore.

Cutting 1/4 inch off the ends off the fuel lines will reduce the leaking at the nipples. They tend to stretch out over time and need cutting. Another old trick is use a small sized tie wrap on where the fuel lines connect to the nipples. Minor air leaks are hard to detect unless you see bubbles in the fuel lines.Depending onhow the carb mounts to the engine and they are different. Over time the carb may come loose over time and needs to be tightened. Wiggle the carb and see if it moves. If it doesthe carb set screw came loose.Many Carbs have an O-Ringthat might be worn a little. I have sealed my carbs at the base when this happens with Copper Style Sealent. I like the Copper because it handles heat and fuels better then others.

Anthoop

If there is oil coming out of the bearing then it is very unlikely there will be an air leak into the engine at that point. The front of the engine is prevented from air leaks by oil....not seals....hence why you find oil retention grooves and drillings back to below the carb. on many engines.

JoeMaxx

That is good information to know I figured at some point if they were blowing oil out on the down stroke on the up stroke at some point they would suck a little air back in. Thanks

My Traxxas engines are notorious for spitting a line of oil onto the frame after about6 gallons of fuel thru the engine.

JohnP2

I've been bashing my 810 hard to test its durability. Losi makes some tough nitro buggies!

I posted this on the Losi forum, but guess all the 810 guys are gone. I have about 60% extra stock parts and and about 20% after-market.

As noted, my initial thoughts are:
1. New engine (something like a P5). Will I have any trouble fitting this?
2. New servos (steering at least 260/.11)
3. Alum horn/arm
4. Tires
5. Hump pack
6. Carbon Towers
7. Hinge pins, shafts, etc??

Also would like beef up the suspension on it. Not overly concerned with durability (it's a Losi afterall). ;-) But do understand it would require some work....and think it would be worth it.

I keep hearing "it's not a true racing buggy", so then my question is why I can't I turn it in to one? This thing glides like the wind.

johndavis

to answer your question for club races nthe 810 is fine. but if you race in the roar sactioned events the 810 does not meet the specs of the 1/8th buggy rules. the 810 is a inbetween class. why losi did this i have no idea.but most club races dont do all the measuring and weight checks.b you can look up roar specs requirements and see for yourself the specs for any class.

JohnP2

Yea, not looking to be competetive with it....sportsman class with no tech checks. ;-) Really just a project to see how creative I can get with it.

My biggest concern is the tank (it's only 82cc). Don't see how I can fit a bigger one without serious adjustments. I'll probably go with what I noted above and see how that works....but as always looking for suggestions.

johndavis

guy at the trtack i race with put a losi eight 2.0 tank in his 150 cc he used the 2.0 clutch and clutch bell. why he had to do that i have no idea.

JohnP2

Okay...that is good to know the 2.0 clutch system works with this buggy in the event I need it!

Is the guy at your track running it with the 3.4? I'm ready to put a stronger engine in this, but want to ease it into the increased power.I need to ensure I don'tchew up up my diffs and/or gearing. Probably going to throwmy son'sLosi 350 (which is no slouch!) on it and see how that works. If she needs more grunt, I'll test it with other engines and find the right one.

johndavis

un the original engine and was competive with it. he always was in the top 3 in the race.

JohnP2

That's awesome. I try to tell folks what a great buggy this is. That 3.4 is no slouch, either! I'm going to start trying different engines in it over the next few weeks. I don't want it to fly in the air when I hit the throttle, but definitely want to find its terminal velocity with respect to how much power it can take.