j301

My Feedback: (12)

I don't have your identical set up but in the past given your situation, I have drilled holes in the cowl that line up with the mount bolts and either left them loose so the muffler could kind of "flex", or off all together and put the cowl on with the muffler sort of at the same time, then fished the bolts in using some tube or a little tape if necessary to hold the bolt onto the hex head screwdriver. Down side is now you have two more small holes in your cowl.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Yeah, that is what I'm trying to avoid. Out of town but going to try taking prop shaft off when I get home and see if that works.

wagen017

Any suggestions for a three bladed prop? I am now flying a APC 18x8 on my Laser 200v which has abundant power so I guess I can step to a less efficient 3 blade prop.

Volkert

kahloq

Biela has an 18x10 3 blade or a 19x10 3 blade that should work. Zinger offers a few different sizes near the 18x8 your using now

wagen017

I think I need a 16x8 when moving to three blades. I'll have a look. Was also thinking of Xoar. They have now a WW2 line as well.

Volkert

kahloq

I know your overseas, but figured you'd like to see one....16x10 biela 3 blade. There are several places in Europe that sells Biela. Im sure there are probably other brands as well. I know Graupner has a 16x8x3 as I have a few and they look real nice on german planes
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/BP1610-3BY.html

silvo2011

Some people remove their gunhood from their fw190 kmp/esm,who knows how to do this,
with a heated knife?

Please help me

kahloq

You have to be rather careful. The gunhood is held in place at the factory by glue.....so you have to work a knife around the edges of the gunhood gently and quite slowly to avoid cracking it.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I just received the 3-blade spiral spinner TBM sells for the FW and the backplate is defective. The prop will not seat properly because the blades hit the edge of the backplate. Either the lip is too high or the center is too thin. Have to call TBM in the morning but wondering if anyone else had this problem with these spinners?

PS: well now I have to qualify that. It seems only the Xoar 17x8x3 is hitting. I tried a Biele and it doesn't hit. But I think the hit is small enough I can Drexel it off. Oh, we'll.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

all,

I have my FW all done and ready for her maiden tomorrow, but im having a CG problem. Figuring out were to start and how to get there. in order to get my CG at 130mm from front edge of center of wing I will need to add about 12oz to nose.

can you tell me what CG you have been flying yours at, where you measured it from and how much weight you put in nose. thanks /Steve.

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

Sounds about right to me. I balanced mine at 130mm as well. When I had the DLE 30 on it, I added about 16oz of lead to the standoffs to get the plane balanced. Once I swapped up to an EME 55 I no longer needed the weight.

wagen017

I balanced mine at 130mm as well and it flies great! 800 grams of lead on the engine stand-offs. Total weight 7,3kg.

That is 28 ounces of lead, 16lbs of plane!

The 130mm is measured of the flat front part of the wing, where it meets the fuselage.

Volkert

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

this is for "Bill Rademacher" I have the PTE 36 going in my FW-190A. Do you have it in lyet or are you planning on putting one in I have not seen any pics. Just wondering.
mine sits on the wall with stock muffler and standoffs and the back plate is a good inch out of the cowl. I will be ordering a jtec flat muffler to give me the needed 1/2inch
drop. drop a pic..

The tailwheel install.....are you running the pull-pull wire in the same (but larger) tube? I am using the ones that came, to run to my rud and put in
two more for the wheel. both on the servo arm.I was thinking about just putting the wire from the tailwheel to the rud. it works that way...but I want to keep it as clean in its
looks.

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

Okay, I got the photos off my iphone. I will post my build photos if anyone would like to see them. but for now here is the PTE-36 from my last post. I think my pics are to large.

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

silvo2011: I see that you did not glass your gun hood...bring so thin why not. Here is what I did. I hope the pics are not to large to post togather. i can only put two at a time it seems

STICK MODE

That first picture in silvo2011 posts is in fact my FW190 (the one that shows no hood) i glassed mine with very light glass and placed two light ply formers so that the hood would form around the Fuselage and stay always in shape mine is in fact pinned at the rear using two brass pins and a very small sliding lock at the front I also brought the pull pull back to the rudder then back forward to the rear wheel for steering after 230 flights ive had no probs with this set up however i did dump standard pull pull wires and used SS nylon fishing line which it a wee bit thicker and stronger . i also did this on my D9 Dora which has worked well regards stick [:-]

wagen017

Question on thefirewall:

I noticed the engine flexes a bit. I see the whole firewall actually moving (a bit). Ihave strengthened the mounting of the engine by using alu strips to share the load of the standoffs across the firewall but I believe the principle issue is that the firewall consists of a multiplex wood glued into the front of the glass fuse. This is not in any way connected to the rest of the frame inside the fuse. Has this led to any issues as far as you know?

Volkert

STICK MODE

Over all the kit is pretty good but what i did was place the Fuselage tail upwards (firewall downwards) and drop epoxy glue down and around the edge of the ply backing plate.
If your using stand offs for the motor use large washers behind the stand offs that are against the fire wall and also behind the the ply plate this way your spreading the load instead of small areas
cheers

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

so true,..so true. I always put large washers on that ply on both sides. and on the firewall I fill it in with Hysol (loctite). if it does go in that wall will be the last thing standing.
I used a hinge at 90* for my gun hood and a spring pin latch up front. all the controls will be under it. The air tank is under the rear deck. I did the same to my P-47..dead space
behind the pilot...use it. now with the cockpit in the (outside) floor I laid with wood so that I can use that area if needed. and as to a statement om retracts........elec..naw..
go with Sierra's. They stand up to our (mis) use. and I can fix an air leak or replace a seal.

wagen017

What I did was cut four aluminum strips, drilled each with 2 holes aligned with 2 stand-offs. So I have stand-off, washer, strip, plywood, strip, washer, nut. So I now have a very good spread of the load. Sorry I don't post a picture, ipad wont allow me to.

Volkert

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

I can understand the ipad issue...Most of my pics are on my ipad. I hooked up my USB port and.....but my upload is two at a time.
Back to the birds...I am glassing my wing because I will be changing the schem of things.... my friend who got me to do this said you will ether like it or dowm right
trash it......will see. The added weight (from the glassing) should be no issueseeing that the engine is over powered from the specs. lights will be put in also. Just the main
ones wing, landing and rear. everyone wants an arm and a leg for a good 3blade nose......i'll keep looking....

STICK MODE

Fill the bottom gaps in as well that way you an add rivets at a later date if you wish has worked well for me so far and the xtra weight is zip I did the d9 this way wich i had done it with the A8

Dowmer

My Feedback: (1)

Tuskegee,
I think you will like the bash on your A8. Just watch the weight closely. You think that the weight will be negligible....or at least I did. Then I added details etc and found out I had a 19 lb bird. Damn thing looks beautiful but is a handful to land. It still flies, even at that weight. The D9 can handle the extra weight better since it has a larger wing at 82" The smaller A8 ARF at 71" inches doesnt take the extra weight quite as well. Frank is right about filling the holes on the underneath. If I did it all again....and I probably will, I'd fill them if you are going through all the hassle to bash and glass..

If you are interested, I did a bash thread on my A8 on RCSB. Here's the link http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17536&PN=2

Good luck and be sure to show picks along the way.

J

STICK MODE

She ended up looking respectfully dirty Jason nice job im sure I can hear that wee voice at the back of your head[:-] buy the D9 Jase you neeeeed it lol

Dowmer

My Feedback: (1)

Frank, RThanks for the kind words. The D9 is more than a wee voice..lol

I'd like to do the D9 Holman but bashing a ESM D9 is actually a little better size at a real 1/5 scale. Holman is 79" which is just a wee under for what Im looking for. You can'darn t beat the scaleness of the Holman but the ESM D9 is just too easy to get in the air compared to a complete build and prettyscale too. I hate my hobby... Oh where to spend my $$

J