YPC

Trim Tab R&D....... I have been testing the durability of the trim tabs as much as possible over the past days and "unfortunately" the tabs continue to be ripped off the board. I have tried various bonding methods and every one has failed so far............[] the forces on impact and when turning on the wave face are far more immense than what I imagined. The actual 'reed' is not breaking......its just the bond to the board that separates.

Bro'

K-H2o

HEY- Great to see Ivan !!! Now there's a candidate for RCSurfing. He does every other form ofSurfing and really well!!!

InDaTube- I guess your name says it all !!! From now on you are just Tube, Nice looking drive shaft !!!

Aloha, KH

RC Surfer

Well looks like History is repeating it's self again, seems that the Kyosho or should I say Jaysons original RC Surfer design is coming back in play as to the trim tab that some how got named "Jimi Rocker" seems to be an enhancement. Pod lift and Rocker Chime will follow, I'm sure. I've been noticing a lot of spray coming fro the front of the home made boards and looking at the bottom of most boards the motor pod has an abrupt point with a sharp angle to the flat surface on the board bottom. Seems to me that this is pushing water (as you can see in the pic's and vid's) forward and that would mean a lot of forward drag! Dimensions of the motor pod on the Kyosho "Dude" RC Surfer; From nose to the point/start of the pod is 6 inches or 15.24cm and 6 in. from tail, Length 14 in. or 35.56cm Width at the widest point is 2 1/2 in. or 3.175cm, and depth at the deepest point off the bottom of the board is 7/8 in. or 2.22cm. Here's some pic's.hope it helps, Later BB

RC Surfer

hope the pic's are here

RC Surfer

Powerpark  I've never had much luck with any thing under 60 amp ESC Brushed or Brushless. I've always looked for the highest ESC amperage load I can find, currently I'm running a 120 continuance/240 surge ESC.

hope it helps. Later BB

YPC

Howzit RC Surfer....

The trim tabs on my board are not as much to reduce any bounce effect ......I have found the adjustable tail trim tab to be a great way to change the boards overall 'displacement' in the water....rather than simply add weight......although as mentioned above....I am currently having a problem keeping them secured....a work in progress....

The board runs quite flat without the aid of the adj. tab set. In my recent testing, I have found the Bi - Fins negative end tabs to be an instigator to creating a small degree of bounce in the board, as they act to pull the tail down and then release as the upward water pressure against the hull at the tail overcomes their pull. This relationship creates a pull/release harmonic effect resulting in bounce ( porpoise). Since I have removed the Bi-fins negative trimmed tipped ends....the small harmonic bounce is eliminated...and the board runs flatter/smoother overall.
I do still find that the Bi- Fin ( even without the tabs ) still works well in the turns to pull the tail in.

As for the pod shape...as you say....it is very critical...I to am using my pod shape to generate center line 'lift' to reduce surface area drag and to enhance the rail to rail ride - as well as forward travel stability..... however.... I feel that the linear pod shape on the Kyhoso board could largely be part of its inherent 'bouncing' (porpoising) problem' as the pod shape in effect has major rocker from front to back...bowed in shape..... acting like the rail of a rocking chair.....I prefer the cross sectional pod shape to be more paralleled to the boards hull surface..

Bro'

YPC

Indatube.....I notice that you have no ties around the silicon tube ends over the motor/esc nipples and inlet/ outlet pipes.
Under normal operating flow that will be fine - BUT - if you had a water flow blockage - say - in the motor - the water built up water pressure from the forward travel at speed would be enough to bulge the silicone tube end around the esc nipples- and flood the housing.

Bro'

InDaTube

Hey,
Thanks for the sharp eye and solution to a possible problem.
I will secure all connection points.......
Thanks again....
Larry

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

RC Surfer Hey thanks! I have a 60 amp in my first surfer. It does work well. Water cooled. I have a Tekin marine brushed water cooled esc I am going to use. They are rare and hard to find. I had this one for years. If I don't like the setup I will go the brushless route. I am running 3300 lipo batterys. Man do they pack a punch. Lightweight and powerful. Its going to be so cool running 2 surfers this summer. I just have to find the right person to go surfing with me!

bearcave

Hi enthusiasts... espec fiberglassers...

i was wondering if anyone can help me regarding my latest newbie to fiberglassin using UV fiberglassing resin problem.

After putting on a coat of filler uv resin on the bottom of my board after glassin on the pod it started to dimple not flow out flat like happened on the deck........

few minutes later looked like and orange with acne scars.... whoa... brushed on more resin then when semi flat got it in the sun....

Long time sanding will fix but any ideas why the dimples and fisheye type scenario..
(i did use a brush that was cleaned with acetone even though many say just get a cheap brush and use it once... oops.... but then again it was dry and flexible and...)

any info welcome.. bc

bearcave

Hi RC Surfer.

Like your thoughts even facts of the Kyo surfer pod shape.... little kicker on the back was an afterthought after kyo disregarded Jasons thoughts i think...Whoa there is some research to be done there to get the facts of realversus mass production reality.....and me not goin there hey lol.

Anyway i'm makin a board atm after kyo/nqd board riding and the small rockery kyo pod has influenced me on my pod/board shape.. an adjustable tab could be important too so incorporating one of them as well..... but just a thought.... i think them channels down the pod prob weren't put there for the fun of it either... just sayin

and all the best to all just addin some thinkin points... bc

YPC

BC...you need to gloss coat straight after you have sanded -OR- you will have 'moisture contamination' on th esurface which causes the Fish Eye effect you are experiencing.

Bro'

YPC

Surf Report:
Had a great session on the West Coast this morning at Blouberg Beach. SE 'side shore' breeze -on a lazy, slightly bumpy wave....always STOKED......!

No adjustable trim tabs

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uC71bA6BKGs[/youtube]

bearcave

Hi Bro thanks for the input on my glassing probs... hoping to have another go this weekend and see what happens.

Btw was thinkin that a trim tab without any overflex restrictor at the adjuster end may allow it to flex back big time when travellin backwards... and break off its mounting point at front.
Am adding something similar to my project but gunna bolt/screw it at the front and then a screwhead type of rear adjuster to stop it going full flex backward...... no idea how to do it yet but thinkin thinkin....

just my 2c and thanks again for the moisture tip on the glassin

bc

YPC

Howzit BC

You are on the right track with the trim solution.....preventing over flex..

I am busy laying up 'stiffer' tabs- using two layers of unidirectional carbon fiber cure with epoxy- which should not allow as much flex.

You've placed quite a few 2c's on the table.....starting to add up to some value....LOL

Bro'

YPC

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmMHivCu51U[/youtube]

InDaTube

Hey Guys,

YPC

Howzit IndaTube

I don't have any experience with the fancy telemetry radio's - but I reckon the discrepancy may be correct. Reason being - when you are running the board, your voltage draw will result in a 'lower voltage reading (due to the Amp draw and operating temperature) to when you are testing/checking the voltage of the battery on the bench, at rest.

I run my LVC at 3.2 V's due to the excessive Amperage surge rcSurfing generates which draws the voltage down in a sharp negative spike - Cold water conditions also effect the batteries voltage capacity - the colder the temp, the lower the voltage. Even though the LVC is set at 3.2 V's- When I plug the battery into the charger at rest to recharge - the cell voltage is around 3.75 V's. ..SO!......if you had a difference of 0.5 v's per sell - running a 5s - you could well have a 2 v difference in total Voltage reading.

I have cycled my batteries well over 150 times and they are still going strong. What is important for the battery, is its final temperature. Unlike planes that need the power to bring the plane in.....with an ********, when the LVC kicks in - you can simply surf it in with the white water - which does not load the battery when it is low on Amps......and hence does not 'heat it up'

Bro'

InDaTube

Interesting.........

Let me explain..

With the battery in the board, transmitter on and battery connected. I use my meter on the exact place where the RX-462 lead is soldered to the ESC.
My volt meter shows 20. 7 volts. The MT-4 display shows 18.81 volts.
I don't get it!!! Same test placement, different result.
For $95, is it too much to ask to give the same reading at a volt meter? Plus how do you, or can you set an alarm for the bring it in voltage?

I'm pissed]

Larry

YPC

I would also be 'piss..apointed'

Definitely one for the manufacturer to answer/explain.....My last 'scratch my head' effort to fathom the mystery - could be that the onboard Telemetry TX is drawing the difference in V's and therefore you are realizing a difference in Voltage reading between the two measuring devices.......

Bro'

InDaTube

Hey man.......

Your ideas sound like a good answer........

But it is advertised as telemetry for reading the voltage of your motor battery........ not the net voltage.

I'm going to call them tomorrow..........

Thanks for your input and I will keep the forum advised.

Larry

K-H2o

Cave- It sounds like you got some contaminates /Oil / Paw prints, on your lamo before Hot coat, or on your sand job before glossing. or you used hot coat resin for laminating. You can wipe it down with acetone on a clean white towelif it happens again.

Aloha, Karl

bearcave

Aloha Karl

Yeh plenty of paw prints round here.. latest grizzly girl seems happy to go home to her pristine castle after i paw all over her too.. lol

A panelbeater reckons the acetone (cause it's used for cleaning up resin) may have contaminated my resin... a painter reckons same and maybe i got some silicone near the surface... bro suggested moisture... another dude reckons i'm a dickhead and should get my life together make some money not play with toys..

So anyway facts are i used UV lam resin to fill in the glass, was expecting to sand down then add the styrene/wax to the resin for a final coat.
(btw after much sandin i have 30g of resin down to 10g and hmm surface is smooth and shapely now... wonder if i can sand down grizzly girls lumps and bumps too... oops best i not go there... lol)

So i am goin to see a friend who makes surfboards for a livin (polyester resin with catalyst type) and see what he thinks... he has also said before like you have said now that acetone is a cleaning agent he uses regularly... i hope i don't get sucked into helping him rebuild/ help run his drag bike but ... lol

Whatever i'm gunna have another go at it this weekend whatever.... thanks for your input K-H20.

regards grizzly paws

bearcave

and btw

hey indatube i was just wondering that as we know all manufacturers overstate their 'specs' regarding amp draw etc of their products.... and like bro says there is a big diff between sittin and happenin volts... could it be possible they are covering themselves and understating the remaining volts?

look fwd to what the manufacturer has to say please let us know the their thoughts.... i use a HK qanum system to let me know whats happenin but it has bad reception and a pain to fit in the hull etc but is fairly close to what the actual voltages are.

 

YPC

.........LOL ......LOL...

Hey BC.....we cant stop getting older.......but Growing up is a choice........dont take the adults to haert....they dont know any better......

Bro'