Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
05-05-2013, 11:53 AM
#1
Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
I bought one of these from Ziroli and thought that I would post a couple pictures of how I went about mounting the engine,etc. I'm not going to do a "blow by blow" build thread as it's been done but the Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage is relatively new and I couldn't find anything on it here on RCU.
I'm using one of the new OS 60GT engines. I machined a chunk of 1/2" G-10 Phenolic to accept the engine and after careful measurement I tacked it into place with some "Zap Goo".
After is was tacked/fit-checked again, I epoxied the Phenolic into place. I went with studs that protrude out the front as it's much easier to remove the engine.
I machined a hatch frame out of 3/8" thick G-10 that accepts a ply cover and tested it's strength I was really surprised at how strong this material is. After I made the hatch frame I cut the opening in the fuselage.
Once the engine was fit and mounted, I had to cut the fuselage to make room for the muffler. I bought a length of G-3 Phenolic tube that is made with "Phenolic Resin" and is fairly high temperature material. The G-3 is capable of continuous operation over 350°F and there's 1/4" of air space between the muffler and the tube. The G-3 tube is a little over 2-5/8" in dia. and I wrapped a sheet of sandpaper around it to sand the cut-out to fit the tube.
I left the tube round and went through the same drill, tack in place, then epoxy. After it set, I cut away the remaining tube to blend with the fuselage.
Everything fits under the cowl with the exception of the single muffler exhaust tube.
Now I have to figure how to mount the cowl without screws...
ps; I've got 33-1/2" of the G-3 tube left if anyone needs to make an exhaust tunnel...
I'm using one of the new OS 60GT engines. I machined a chunk of 1/2" G-10 Phenolic to accept the engine and after careful measurement I tacked it into place with some "Zap Goo".
After is was tacked/fit-checked again, I epoxied the Phenolic into place. I went with studs that protrude out the front as it's much easier to remove the engine.
I machined a hatch frame out of 3/8" thick G-10 that accepts a ply cover and tested it's strength I was really surprised at how strong this material is. After I made the hatch frame I cut the opening in the fuselage.
Once the engine was fit and mounted, I had to cut the fuselage to make room for the muffler. I bought a length of G-3 Phenolic tube that is made with "Phenolic Resin" and is fairly high temperature material. The G-3 is capable of continuous operation over 350°F and there's 1/4" of air space between the muffler and the tube. The G-3 tube is a little over 2-5/8" in dia. and I wrapped a sheet of sandpaper around it to sand the cut-out to fit the tube.
I left the tube round and went through the same drill, tack in place, then epoxy. After it set, I cut away the remaining tube to blend with the fuselage.
Everything fits under the cowl with the exception of the single muffler exhaust tube.
Now I have to figure how to mount the cowl without screws...
ps; I've got 33-1/2" of the G-3 tube left if anyone needs to make an exhaust tunnel...
05-18-2013, 11:35 AM
#2
RE: Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
Worked a little more on the fuselage...
I cut the former templates from the plans and used spray adhesive to tack them to the 1/8 aircraft ply. Cut them out on the band saw and began fitting them to the fuselage.
There are only 5 former's used on the glass fuselage. One just forward of the wing leading edge that has a "wing dowel hole" that will be installed once the wing is fitted. Three fitted to the area under the wing and the last in the tail section used to mount the tail wheel.
The templates were real close and only minor sanding required on the corners where the glass lay-up creates an inside radius.
If you buy one of these fuselage's make sure you ask for the up-dated plans sheet that's included as it shows the "FG former's" and their position in the fuselage.
I had an older set of plans that didn't show these details.
I cut the former templates from the plans and used spray adhesive to tack them to the 1/8 aircraft ply. Cut them out on the band saw and began fitting them to the fuselage.
There are only 5 former's used on the glass fuselage. One just forward of the wing leading edge that has a "wing dowel hole" that will be installed once the wing is fitted. Three fitted to the area under the wing and the last in the tail section used to mount the tail wheel.
The templates were real close and only minor sanding required on the corners where the glass lay-up creates an inside radius.
If you buy one of these fuselage's make sure you ask for the up-dated plans sheet that's included as it shows the "FG former's" and their position in the fuselage.
I had an older set of plans that didn't show these details.
05-21-2013, 03:05 AM
#3
RE: Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
ORIGINAL: Broken Wings
I bought one of these from Ziroli and thought that I would post a couple pictures of how I went about mounting the engine,etc. I'm not going to do a ''blow by blow'' build thread as it's been done but the Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage is relatively new and I couldn't find anything on it here on RCU.
I'm using one of the new OS 60GT engines. I machined a chunk of 1/2'' G-10 Phenolic to accept the engine and after careful measurement I tacked it into place with some ''Zap Goo''.
After is was tacked/fit-checked again, I epoxied the Phenolic into place. I went with studs that protrude out the front as it's much easier to remove the engine.
I machined a hatch frame out of 3/8'' thick G-10 that accepts a ply cover and tested it's strength I was really surprised at how strong this material is. After I made the hatch frame I cut the opening in the fuselage.
Once the engine was fit and mounted, I had to cut the fuselage to make room for the muffler. I bought a length of G-3 Phenolic tube that is made with ''Phenolic Resin'' and is fairly high temperature material. The G-3 is capable of continuous operation over 350°F and there's 1/4'' of air space between the muffler and the tube. The G-3 tube is a little over 2-5/8'' in dia. and I wrapped a sheet of sandpaper around it to sand the cut-out to fit the tube.
I left the tube round and went through the same drill, tack in place, then epoxy. After it set, I cut away the remaining tube to blend with the fuselage.
Everything fits under the cowl with the exception of the single muffler exhaust tube.
Now I have to figure how to mount the cowl without screws...
ps; I've got 33-1/2'' of the G-3 tube left if anyone needs to make an exhaust tunnel...
I bought one of these from Ziroli and thought that I would post a couple pictures of how I went about mounting the engine,etc. I'm not going to do a ''blow by blow'' build thread as it's been done but the Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage is relatively new and I couldn't find anything on it here on RCU.
I'm using one of the new OS 60GT engines. I machined a chunk of 1/2'' G-10 Phenolic to accept the engine and after careful measurement I tacked it into place with some ''Zap Goo''.
After is was tacked/fit-checked again, I epoxied the Phenolic into place. I went with studs that protrude out the front as it's much easier to remove the engine.
I machined a hatch frame out of 3/8'' thick G-10 that accepts a ply cover and tested it's strength I was really surprised at how strong this material is. After I made the hatch frame I cut the opening in the fuselage.
Once the engine was fit and mounted, I had to cut the fuselage to make room for the muffler. I bought a length of G-3 Phenolic tube that is made with ''Phenolic Resin'' and is fairly high temperature material. The G-3 is capable of continuous operation over 350°F and there's 1/4'' of air space between the muffler and the tube. The G-3 tube is a little over 2-5/8'' in dia. and I wrapped a sheet of sandpaper around it to sand the cut-out to fit the tube.
I left the tube round and went through the same drill, tack in place, then epoxy. After it set, I cut away the remaining tube to blend with the fuselage.
Everything fits under the cowl with the exception of the single muffler exhaust tube.
Now I have to figure how to mount the cowl without screws...
ps; I've got 33-1/2'' of the G-3 tube left if anyone needs to make an exhaust tunnel...
Nice job keeping everything in the cowl. If you really are bothered by cowl screws showing and cannot disguise them by using scale fastener positions, an option might be to split the cowl horizontally along existing panel lines (I am assuming the cowl is not structural). The lower half could be mounted to the fuselage first, maybe with internal fixings. Then the top using small screws in scale fastener position, mounted to the lower half. You also get the benefit of access to the engine bay without removing the prop/spinner at the field. My Yellow P40 uses a similar two piece cowl arrangement. You may need to odd wood former or rib adding to just keep things rigid where needed.
05-21-2013, 12:09 PM
#4
RE: Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
ORIGINAL: Edhamp
Nice job keeping everything in the cowl. If you really are bothered by cowl screws showing and cannot disguise them by using scale fastener positions, an option might be to split the cowl horizontally along existing panel lines (I am assuming the cowl is not structural). The lower half could be mounted to the fuselage first, maybe with internal fixings. Then the top using small screws in scale fastener position, mounted to the lower half. You also get the benefit of access to the engine bay without removing the prop/spinner at the field. My Yellow P40 uses a similar two piece cowl arrangement. You may need to odd wood former or rib adding to just keep things rigid where needed.
ORIGINAL: Broken Wings
I bought one of these from Ziroli and thought that I would post a couple pictures of how I went about mounting the engine,etc. I'm not going to do a ''blow by blow'' build thread as it's been done but the Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage is relatively new and I couldn't find anything on it here on RCU.
I'm using one of the new OS 60GT engines. I machined a chunk of 1/2'' G-10 Phenolic to accept the engine and after careful measurement I tacked it into place with some ''Zap Goo''.
After is was tacked/fit-checked again, I epoxied the Phenolic into place. I went with studs that protrude out the front as it's much easier to remove the engine.
I machined a hatch frame out of 3/8'' thick G-10 that accepts a ply cover and tested it's strength I was really surprised at how strong this material is. After I made the hatch frame I cut the opening in the fuselage.
Once the engine was fit and mounted, I had to cut the fuselage to make room for the muffler. I bought a length of G-3 Phenolic tube that is made with ''Phenolic Resin'' and is fairly high temperature material. The G-3 is capable of continuous operation over 350°F and there's 1/4'' of air space between the muffler and the tube. The G-3 tube is a little over 2-5/8'' in dia. and I wrapped a sheet of sandpaper around it to sand the cut-out to fit the tube.
I left the tube round and went through the same drill, tack in place, then epoxy. After it set, I cut away the remaining tube to blend with the fuselage.
Everything fits under the cowl with the exception of the single muffler exhaust tube.
Now I have to figure how to mount the cowl without screws...
ps; I've got 33-1/2'' of the G-3 tube left if anyone needs to make an exhaust tunnel...
I bought one of these from Ziroli and thought that I would post a couple pictures of how I went about mounting the engine,etc. I'm not going to do a ''blow by blow'' build thread as it's been done but the Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage is relatively new and I couldn't find anything on it here on RCU.
I'm using one of the new OS 60GT engines. I machined a chunk of 1/2'' G-10 Phenolic to accept the engine and after careful measurement I tacked it into place with some ''Zap Goo''.
After is was tacked/fit-checked again, I epoxied the Phenolic into place. I went with studs that protrude out the front as it's much easier to remove the engine.
I machined a hatch frame out of 3/8'' thick G-10 that accepts a ply cover and tested it's strength I was really surprised at how strong this material is. After I made the hatch frame I cut the opening in the fuselage.
Once the engine was fit and mounted, I had to cut the fuselage to make room for the muffler. I bought a length of G-3 Phenolic tube that is made with ''Phenolic Resin'' and is fairly high temperature material. The G-3 is capable of continuous operation over 350°F and there's 1/4'' of air space between the muffler and the tube. The G-3 tube is a little over 2-5/8'' in dia. and I wrapped a sheet of sandpaper around it to sand the cut-out to fit the tube.
I left the tube round and went through the same drill, tack in place, then epoxy. After it set, I cut away the remaining tube to blend with the fuselage.
Everything fits under the cowl with the exception of the single muffler exhaust tube.
Now I have to figure how to mount the cowl without screws...
ps; I've got 33-1/2'' of the G-3 tube left if anyone needs to make an exhaust tunnel...
Nice job keeping everything in the cowl. If you really are bothered by cowl screws showing and cannot disguise them by using scale fastener positions, an option might be to split the cowl horizontally along existing panel lines (I am assuming the cowl is not structural). The lower half could be mounted to the fuselage first, maybe with internal fixings. Then the top using small screws in scale fastener position, mounted to the lower half. You also get the benefit of access to the engine bay without removing the prop/spinner at the field. My Yellow P40 uses a similar two piece cowl arrangement. You may need to odd wood former or rib adding to just keep things rigid where needed.
Do you have a link showing your build? I'd like to see how you did it.
Thanks
05-21-2013, 01:00 PM
#5
RE: Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
Hi,
Sorry I do not have a build for my Yellow P40 but the cowl arrangement on this is stock, not my mod and there is bound to be some build threads in this forum. the two halfs are simply fixed with small screws at the scale panel fastener locations However, I did split he cowl on my comp arf Spitfire, as shown here,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_90...10/key_/tm.htm
see posts 230 onwards. In this case the top half uses a simple peg and latch and the lower cowl is fitted with small screws at the scale position which are hardly noticeable.
cheers
Ed
Sorry I do not have a build for my Yellow P40 but the cowl arrangement on this is stock, not my mod and there is bound to be some build threads in this forum. the two halfs are simply fixed with small screws at the scale panel fastener locations However, I did split he cowl on my comp arf Spitfire, as shown here,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_90...10/key_/tm.htm
see posts 230 onwards. In this case the top half uses a simple peg and latch and the lower cowl is fitted with small screws at the scale position which are hardly noticeable.
cheers
Ed
