frankeldan

I went with the eflite 60-120 electric retracts.

Here's a video of them.
http://youtu.be/ux324PDMVDs


Still have to tweek them up a little to get the proper angle of attack. I also had to put a shim under the wing retracts for them to fit as others have. The convenience of the electric vrs the old fashion Robarts is worth it. What were you thinking Hangar 9 when you designed this one..

BiggerDanno

Adding a fan would just circulate the hot air in the fuse. You need cool air from outside.
For any air intake, you also need an air exhaust 3 times larger than the intake.

frankeldan

Adding a fan directly to the heatsinks of a Speed controller would work very well to dissipate heat away from the unit. As it was said, make sure you have at least a 1 to 3 air flow to get rid of the captured heat.

Jetkopter

My Feedback: (1)

for all of you that did the electric conversion what did you use for a motor mount?

angelrcdesign

My Feedback: (40)

AMain Hobby
There having a sale $139.00 but the shipping is $50.00

Jetkopter

My Feedback: (1)

Angel, do you have a part number or a link?

jet22b

Here is the link below!!!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Jackal-50-ARF
Sonny
aka
jet22b

angelrcdesign

My Feedback: (40)

I don't get it, 139.00 for a new one and Scratch&dent for 179.00!!!

jet22b

I am with you!! Something just don't sound right!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Chancho

I can't speak for the $179 scratch and dent - it does sound wrong, but a buddy told me about the Amainhobbies price almost a couple weeks ago now. We both jumped on it and each have a spare Jackal at a good fraction of the cost that we paid when they first hit the shelf. With the Jett engine, retracts - everything custom for this plane, I'd hate to have something happen and no bone yard to bring it back to life. Under $200 is a cheap insurance policy to enjoy this plane a long time from now, too. The 139 + 50 shipping is legit. Not sure how many he has left - he only had 8 a couple weeks ago.

jet22b

Hey Guys;
I just look on their website and the only Jackal 50 they have is the scratch and dent ones. Not much on what is wrong with the scratch and dent.
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Chancho

I've got to imagine Amain had some of the last Jackals new in a box any of us will see anywhere. When I was first indoctrinated into this hobby with the serious guys, old timers and such, I always wondered why the old timers would hold onto some kits for 20 + years. On a rare occasion you see a guy at the field who crashes his favorite plane of 10 or 20+ years and those are the hard ones because behind the tears aren't so much because accidents happen, but that he knows he can't find a kit anywhere to resurrect it. With the quick disappearance of the Jackal, now I know. This is an awesome plane and it just amazed me it's short shelf life.

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

I just want to say wow this thing is amazing vs the Hanger 9 F22

Flew my jackel against my boys Turbine Falcon 120 with 16pound tuturbine few around but after my 3min trimmer when off we finly lined up he when to WOT first by 1/2 feild I had cought up and passed him and by the time we were at the end of the Feild I was 4 planes lengths right ahead of him if I Slowed down be would of hit me

It was crazy that this little jet with $50 used Eflite 500kv Heli motor and $90 120HV ESC and some lipos a and Eflight 60-120 retracts I already had laying around against his new $3300 Turbine

It was a good day

angelrcdesign

My Feedback: (40)

If anyone interested I have a Jackal boby but no rudder, left wing good, elev ok.

supertoyz

I've got a CG question for you guys. I'm more of a Heli guy and the Jackal is my first nitro plane. I was setting the CG last night with a 1/2 tank of fuel like you would do with a heli. The instructions don't mention fuel when discussing the CG only that the model should be "assembled and ready for flight". To me ready for flight means fueled, however I'm finding it to be very nose heavy. The 6 3/8" - 6 5/8" measurement also appears to be really far back. I'm wondering if it's so far back since it's intended to be the dry location and when fueled the CG moves further up into the proper "actual" location. So I was hoping you guys could clarify for me....CG wet or dry?

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

Dry

frankeldan

Dry.. It assumes that you will have a near empty tank on landing. I like the 1/2 tank idea though, since this is where most flying is done.
I set up all my planes with the tank empty I'm still setting up my Jackal and also noticed that the CG "looks" really far back due to the swept back wings.

supertoyz

ok, so dry it is, now I have a few more questions

My setup is mostly stock, EVO 60NX, Jett Pipe, all servo's etc were ordered right from Horizon's completion quide. For retracts I wanted to avoid air and they were B/O anyway so I wen't with some electrics with struts from Shulman aviation. This allowed me to also ditch the pull/pull cable steering and go with a .062 Rod and clevis. The only other deviation from the manual was I wanted to go with a Lipo and voltage regulator. I had an unused Align 2 in 1 regulator with remote glow which takes a 2S Lipo so I figured a small 2200 mAH Lipo mounted somewhere under the canopy for easy access would be perfect. Tried to balance it last night and it's very nose heavy, I was trying different size packs on the tail to get it to balance. It ended up balancing with a 2S 5000 mAH pack that weights almost 300 grams! I'm not sure I'll be able to find room to mount it. Just out of curiosity I weighed the plane (all I had handy was a bathroom scale, not sure how accurate it is and only gives .5 lb readings. Without a battery is registered 7.5 and with the battery it read 8.5 which means somewhere between 8 and 8.5. I guess it sounds right, I thought that avoiding mechanical retract servo's or the air retract system might save some weight but the weight of the electric units and their struts might actually weight more. So I'm looking for opinions, should I simply find a way to install a 300g battery in the tail with an all up weight of 8-8.5 lbs or try to find a better solution.

A couple of other questions I had for you guys.

I read through most of this thread and it seems a lot of the talk is about fuel foaming and adding bladder tanks etc. I remember when I was a kid all of the guys would simply add a drop of Armor All to their fuel jug and no more foaming, problem was solved. Is this an old trick thats been forgotten or is there a problem with that practice? Also makes me wonder why the fuel magnets we use in Heli's now wouldn't also solve the issue, foam or not they will soak up every last drop of fuel and should eliminate any issues caused by foaming, although I could be wrong.

Props, I installed the Evolution 10x7 prop but now noticed they recommend an APC 10x7.....I like the look and color of the Evo prop better, any reason to switch to the APC?

Lastly I was hoping for some guidelines for tuning the Evo 60. I'm using the recommended Hangar 9 4 stroke glow plug, blue Jett pipe and 15% Coolpower. I set it to 2 turns out like the manual said and it started right up and ran great. I ran it outside at the house for about 10 minutes, it idled and transitioned fine. I ran it up to about 15,500 RPMS a few times and then would back off and hold it around 10K for 20-30 seconds and then back to a fast idle. Temps were around 175-200 and peaked at 225 a few times, telling me it's still very rich (read some more last night and see that it should be closer to 300 for break in) After about 10 minutes I shut it off before the neighbors got pissed. I pinched off the fuel line and capped the carb and muffler tip leaving about 2/3 tank of fuel left.....normally would have drained it out but planned on running it again in an hour or so but got distracted. So I ran it again the next day, it started right up but didn't want to idle down and appeared be four stroking at the same settings. I ran it up thinking it just needed to be cleaned out and was shocked to see that even when running at a steady 10-11K that it would suddenly quit without warning, not stumble and die but just quit like somebody flipped a light switch. It would then start right back up again. I tried turning the needle 1/4 turn each way but didn't see any improvement. Again temps were about 200 at lower RPM and dropped to 180 at higher RPM. Not sure what's going on, I read the first 30 pages again last night and see that it should be closer to 300 and obviously not four stroking so I will try leaning it out however I also saw a few posts saying with the pipe it should be 3-4 turns out! I don't understand the drastic change in how it runs unless the fuel or glow plug went since the first run. So anyway if you guys could clarify a good target temp, RPM and basic needle range I would appreciate it.

Thanks for any advice you can give, it's always appreciated.

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

Battery goes in the tail, there is a place for it

supertoyz

There is a place but it's not big enough for the 5000 mAH worth of battery that it needs to balance. Maybe I'll have to go with a pair of something smaller

jet22b

supertoyz;
Like bob62 said in his post, the battery do go in the tail. I have a Hobbico 6V 2000mah NiMH battery in the tail and the CG was spot on as per the manual.
Now for the Evo 60NX and the Jett pipe. I run a APC 10x7 prop and the engine is turning it at 17K on 30% heli-mix fuel. One thing you will find with this engine, it love to eat glow plugs!! Right now I am using OS #3 glow plugs and the engine is happy, but it still eats plugs, not as fast as it did before. I know your neighbors was happy with you!!! My neighbors want to kill me!!!! Make sure you set this engine using a rpm meter. I found out the hard way on my first Evo 60NX. and when the pipe kick in, the engine went super lean and die hard.. Also if you have a club, check to see what are the max noise level at your club field. My main club, I can not fly the Jackal 50. Max noise level is 98 DB's and the 60NX with pipe hits 115 DB's!!
She is a joy to fly and you will love her. It is to bad that they stop making them after only a year!!
Hope this help!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

supertoyz

So I have a few flights on it now and have some follow up tuning and prop questions for you guys. First off it seemed a little finicky on the break in but I guess that's normal. I started per the instructions at 2 turns out using the APC 11x6 prop. The first half tank was fine, it started, idled and ran flawlessly. After about 10 minutes (1/2) tank I figured the neighbors had heard enough and called it a day. Next day I decided to use the rest of the tank and it wouldn't idle and would often cut out instantly when running higher RPM. I richened it to 3 turns and it seemed to get much better but still a little finicky with stalling sometimes at low RPM and sometimes high RPM (using 15% Coolpower and Hangar 9 stroke plug) Brought it to the field for maiden and after some testing decided that 3 1/2 turns out was good but still seemed lean. Pinch the fuel line at WOT and it would immediately die. I flew it for a few 6-7 minute flights and it seemed ok and temps were 150 on the ground at WOT and around 200 in the air. I spoke with HH tech support and a guy there with the same motor was running 30% in his and he was at 2 3/4 turns. He felt the typical range usually ends up between 2-3. Based on this I leaned it to 3 turns and figured I would go from there. On the ground it seemed good. idled, transitioned and held WOT fine with temps under 200 at WOT. A few minutes in the air and the telemetry alarm starts going off with temps bumping 300. I bring it in to land and on approach it quits. I bring it home and can't get it started, glow plug is burned out. Swapped the plug and it started fine, changed the prop to the Evolution 10x7 (Still don't understand how under 200 on the ground and at 300 in the air) Brought it back to the field the next day and went out to 3 3/4 turns. Now it behaves like a different motor, still starts, idles, transitions and runs fine but it obviously rich. It never exceeds 180 degrees in the air, is easily hitting 17K RPM and hasn't stalled yet. Sometimes it stumbles a little when throttling up after idling but that only because it's rich. Using the pinch test at WOT it also gains a lot of RPM before dying so I'm sure I have a lot of leaning out to do. I'm now in to 3 turns and it's still rich, temps 180ish, gains too much RPM when pinching at WOT and will run on for 10+ seconds after pinching the line at idle. I'll likely end up right in the 2-3 turns range just like HH said. I'm just not sure why it had been leaning out at the same and richer settings before, it hit 300 at 3 turns now at the same setting its at 180. I guess it's just break in or maybe the changing of props, whatever it was seems to have solved the issue and now it's on track to dialing in nicely. My questions for you guys are what needle settings are you all running? I understand all of the variables and that none will be the same I'm just looking for comparisons. Also on propping. It's hard to tell because it's still rich but mine appears to be hitting 17k at about 2/3 throttle and being flat after that. I can cruise around at 1/2 - 2/3 and when I punch it for a low fly by not much is left, sound and speed hardly changes. I friend was looking over my shoulder at the telemetry and read out the RPM at 17 and I wasn't near WOT. After a flight peak RPM reads around 17,000 to 17,200. It just seems like it's reaching that around 2/3 throttle and hits a wall not going beyond it. It's not setup because the throttle is linear from 0 to 100 with no curve and the mechanical setup is perfect from fully closed to WOT. Just seems like it needs more prop, especially considering it needs to be leaned out more. I just don't understand why it doesn't continue to gain RMP was 2/3-3/4 throttle and 17K? Also what temps do you guys consider normal/safe for this motor?

Thanks

PS - My trouble with finding CG turned out the be I was measuring back from the intakes as per the picture in the instructions. Removing the fake intakes and measuring back from the root of the wing solved the problem. One 2200 mah Lipo in the back and it balanced fine.

tlj125

My Feedback: (1)

I ran a 10x7 APC on my EVO. Went through plugs every two or three flights until I started using ducted fan plugs. Also put foam around the fuel tank and switched to the anti bubble clunk from OS. Worked much better after that. Mine also would have little difference from about 2/3 to full throttle. I thought this was more a function of the pipe tuning. I have had the same thing happen when I flew ducted fans years ago. After the EVO died, I switch to an OS55AX. It acts similar with not much difference from 2/3 to full throttle. However, the engine runs much more smoothly and reliably with much less vibration. The difference is striking. I have to say, the EVO was a little bit faster on top end though. I have no idea what the needle settings were. They changed with the weather. Always pinched the line and made sure the engine had a little bit more rev-up before taxiing out for a flight. Always made sure I was trailing a little bit of smoke from the exhaust during flight. It worked for me. Good luck with yours.

Terry

richardgerardi

ey guys haven't been here for a while. My Jackal has been in the basement for over 10 months, and so have most of my planes. I need a replacement fuel tank. The original one busted and been looking around for one that would fit but would like it to 16oz instead. The Jett 56 is a hungry beast. Any suggestions?

rayboy64

My Feedback: (3)

This may be silly , forgive me if so. but whats up with nitro prop jets ? I really had my mind set on one of these , or a very similiar model but seems no one makes them anymore . or anything even close that I can find. is there a reason behind these models not to be avaible ?