bikerbc

I almost have my struts finished...Just the jury struts to do .. They came out fantastic... I couldn't stand the heat in the shop any more.. I got to change lite bulbs.. I have 4 300 watt jobs over the bench and they practically heat the shop in the fall and spring...

Props4ever

Well earlier in the day, I decided to gut everything out of the ass end of this Cub. I just can't see this old crap servo arms used as bell cranks with all the crap wooden mounting bracket for the arms.

I'm going to make newer one with newer design as this one will be for elevator control not the rudder.

Also like to get ideas to make this whole empinnage removable for storage and transport. Has anyone ever tried to make tail and h stab removable on these big models???

After removing all the guts, now I can reinforce this end with nice truss structure.....

bikerbc

I have been using shock cord for a year or so and it works great but I still use O Rings sometimes...The thing I like about O Rings is that you can easily adjust the load...The other day I came in for a rotton landing and bounced bad , I broke some O rings .. If it was Shock cord it would not have broken but maybe the gear would have bent .. I don't know ... I was just glad that I happened to have O Rings on at the time ...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Try the LED bulbs, nice and bright but less heat!

smkrcflyer

I recently got a Saito 90T that I was going to put on my GP 40 size cub but it fly's nice with the 72 4C that I have it it now. So I was thinking about building the GP 60 size cub as a clip wing for the 90T. Do you think this engine will work on this plane? I just do basic flying. The specs are below.

Plane 40 size 60 size clip
Span 81 83
Length 49 56.5
Wing area 984 1037
Weight 8.5 9.5

Props4ever

First upper longeron joint at the aft end needed to be fixed as it was glued on offset position then being in center of the fuselage. I used heat gun to heat up old epoxy to loosen up this joint first, then joined both longerons as proper center position by making newer joint at the center of the fuselage. This took a while to do so as some cutting was needed and then joint made with fresh epoxy glue.

After fixing the position of the upper longerons, I made the base mounting plate from 1/4" plywood plate, this was made in 2 sections as sheet wasn't long enough to make it as one piece plate. After the cutting was done, edges were sanded sooth and then these pieces were glued in between the upper longerons.
This plate also reinforced the aft end of the model.

When I glued on the plate, just before it was glued, stabilizer was dry mounted to make sure all angles were right and level by using water level for this purpose. For some reason, right longeron was glued at slightly lower angle then the left one, due to this offset in longerons, old stabilizer was mounted while being tilted on to the right side.....

Props4ever

Whole empennage has been dry assembled to get vertical fin to align properly in relation with horizontal stabilizer and the fuselage. So far all seems to be in good standing.
Once this all is set, then I will mark point where to drill holes for the T nuts or blind nuts to be placed on both center plate of stabilizer and it's base plate on the fuselage.

A piece will be made to go in between stabilizer's top surface to connect vertically with the fin, this will give good support to the fin and then couple on longitudinal holes will be drilled for CF tubes or rods to be glued on the frame of the fin so when fin is
mounted on the stab, it can be screwed inside the fuselage to be locked in.

stevegauth30

It's defiantly come a LONG way, I'm sure in the end, she'll look good as new.

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

here are a few photos of the shock cord make up process

Cub Flyer Fresno

Hey there Rocky, is that a swage?  That's a good idea, I might have some left over from my Ultralight days, got the swaging tool as well.  I did find though that a knot works pretty well, however.......

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Yup, I used a piece of brass tubing I have on hand as a swage - its probably got about .015 wall thickness - I just squashed it down with my pliers and when I tested it I was happy to find it held very well, but just to be sure I put some heat shrink over the junction. I hope it works out better than the "O" rings did because they were cracking when the model was just sitting there.

Cub Flyer Fresno

I know exactly what you mean!  My Sopwith Camel would last one day with the O-Rings.  I haven't even gotten my Cub in the air and the O-Rings are shot!  From what I've seen so far, you'll love the shock cord, provided the swage holds.    (Oh, I put a knot in the end of the cord on the Camel and CA'd it, it's still holding....)

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

I tried the knot deal and it seemed to take up too much room on the L.G. pegs so I tried this method instead. As you can see it fits well in amongst the cord. My impression is that if anything using the 17 inch length makes the shock absorber a bit on the stiff side but I can always easily make up another set with a few less inches to wrap around the pegs and that will soften it up a little.
[8D]

Cub Flyer Fresno

Ah, that would have been a good question to ask.  You made them 17" long?  Mine are going to be too tight I can tell.  I need to go buy some more cord sometime.  It had better be soon, I'm almost finished with my build!

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Yeah, I just tried 17 inches because that looked about right to fit on the pegs and as you can see on the photos that amount really fills up the pegs - there is no room for any more cord on them. Once the wind goes down and I can fly the model I will know if I have to soften them up a bit.
[8D]

Cub Flyer Fresno

Keeps us (by which I mean me) informed.  Happy landings!

Yank II

Sign me up!!

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Well, last night I got the Cub out for a flight and 17 inches of shock cord it too much - it makes the gear too stiff - I will try it a little shorter and when I come up with a length that works will let you guys know. [8D]

Cub Flyer Fresno

Excellent!  You da man Rocky!

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

After some experimentation I have found that starting with a shock cord length of 14 & 3/4ths inches works pretty well - that length gives it a semi-stiff gear with what seems like about the right amount of give to it. If the spring winds and rain in MN ever stop I'll get this old girl out for some flights and can verify that. Hope A Hope. [8D]

Cub Flyer Fresno

Cool!  Thanks for the info Rocky.  Now for a trip to REI.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Question guys I have a BUSA 1/4 cub kit that I will most likely change in to a P-18 for a next winter build and collecting bits, I have some books on the cub but nothing that shows a fire wall profile.

so does any one have one they would share or can you point me to the info. Thanks in advance.

Please Pm me

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Corsair Brotherhood #5

Joey B

My Feedback: (4)

who makes the best looking dummy engine for 1/4 scale cub also looking for cowl Balsa usa j3

Cub Flyer Fresno

Joey,

Joey B

My Feedback: (4)

thanks cub flyer