Joseph Fisher

I want to show my grand childern what I did in the 1950's. This is the plan from Barry Baxter WWW.CONTROLLINEPLANS.COM . The drawings are real nice the dementions are not all corect so before ordering balsa it is a good idea to mesure the meterials befrore ordering.

Joseph Fisher

These are the parts. I could not find leading edge that is the corect shape. I started using the table saw then used the Master razer plane and the metal template to make the final shape.

Joseph Fisher

Assembling the wings.

Joseph Fisher

Sheet the wing senter sections. The plans only show the maple engine mounts to the back of the mount opening. I extended the maple back another 2"

Joseph Fisher

Picture didn't appere on last post so I hope it is here.

Joseph Fisher

Align tail with wings

Joseph Fisher

Put on 3 coats of Randolph Rand-O-Proof nitrate dope. Sand between coats.

Joseph Fisher

Put on Sig Coverall covering. Put on 2 coats of Rand-O-Proof dope.

Joseph Fisher

Put on 2 coats of Randolph yellow Buterate dope.

Joseph Fisher

Put on Fox .35 engine and mount tank.

Joseph Fisher

First flights http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGaZHM1UPQc

jcralley

Good job Joseph!!!

I'm always happy to see a new Ringmaster come into being!!!

For others that might want to build a Ringmaster I will attach a PDF file the will print out a full sized plan (with the correct dimensions). If you take it to a copy shop, office supply or even a WalMart and have them print it at %100 it will be full sized.

John Cralley

Joseph Fisher

Yes I have seen your plans before. They are a lot diffrent. I have the remains of one built from the Sterling kit. The plans you have have a more readley avalible leading edge meterial. Your plans use 3/16 sheet for the tail my plans use 1/8 sheet and that is what the kit had. The plans you have gave me the idea to extend the maple engine mounts farther back in to the fuselage. I built my bellcrank mount to extend accrost the center section not just one side. What got me thinking about this project. About 5 years ago I was out at an R/C feild and an older man was flying his R/C's and we got to talking about the old days. He said he had a Ringmaster in his camper that he had not flown and if I could help him he would like to try it.He had built like 30 years ago. So we set it up and he wanted to pull test it. I held the airplane and he pulled. He pulled way harder than I would have and the bellcrank mount failed. So of course we didn't get to fly it. When I built mine I felt that anothet 1/10 oz of plywood might be a good idea.

Tom Nied

Very nice. And I like how you decided to just cut out two sets of parts. I should start cutting out parts. I don't know why, but I'm itimidated by the leading edge.

jcralley

Joseph,

Actually they are not MY plans. The plans were modified to update the original Ringmaster to a modern version that still meets the Old Time Stunt rules. The fellow who did the modifications was Pat King. Pat is standing on the left in the photo. Jim Swearingen is in the middle and I am on the right.

5skyhawk172

At age 12 in 1968 I built my first airplane.  A Sterling Ringmaster.  Complete with McCoy 29.  I learned to fly that baby and have been building and flying ever since.  Keith AMA 50764

Tom Nied

Think I was 16 in 1969 when I built my first Ringmaster S-1 with an Enya .29? Man did the pull on handle get my attention.

Joseph Fisher

I schach build I buy plans and kind of follow them but I am not usualy fussy about folowing the details. This time I wanted to make them as authenitic as I could. Years ago some one gave me a fuselage, one leading edge, bellcrank mount and the tail from a crashed Sterling Ringmaster kit. So when I started out I was woryed about the leading edge. What I did I had a peace of galveniez steel I think from a washing machine. I traced the shape on about a 2''X3" piece and used a Dermal with a Carbide ber to cut it out. I fasened it to a stick thinking I could drag it over the balsa and eventualy shap the edge. On the table saw I cut the dementions for hight and thickness and beveled the front edges. I descovered that my plan to drag the shape wouldn't work. So I would drag the template and use the Master air screw razer plane to take a little off at a time. I was surprized at how fast it went. Each one of the 4 peaces only took about an hour each to shape. The ribs I used tracing paper and french curves to trace the plan. I have a Kodak 3 in 1 printer copyer. I needed 4 of each rib so I ran them through the copyer. I got some Bordon reposision glue kind of like sticky note and temproley atached the paterns to the balsa. I used a plastic cutting board to hold the parts down and cut through the balsa into the plastic with the Exacto.I turned out all the ribs in three evenings.

Tom Nied

That sounds pretty much what I would try and thanks for letting me know what it really takes. I'm going to start with the leading edge. I've built plenty of free flight models so cutting out parts is no problem. Just getting that massive leading edge right seems a challenge. Thanks for sharing Joe.

Tom

5skyhawk172

Yea, I remember the pull on the handle.  It's something I'll never forget.

jcralley

Tom,

Carving the leading edge will make an authentic Ringmaster leading edge but it will not be the best that you can do. The best leading edge is one which you form by cutting riblets that match the leading edge curvature but 1/16" less in dimension. These riblets are then glued to a 1/8" sheet that forms the back side of the leading edge.The leading edge is then formed by wrapping 1/16" balsa sheet over them. You moisten the balsa on one side (outside) and then gently wrap it around the riblets to give it the proper shape and hold it in place with Ace bandages.. After it has dried you can then glue the sheet to the riblets and this gives you a perfect, light and strong leading edge.

I will attach a photo or two to make clear how this is done. One word of caution: don't wrap the balsa sheeting too tight when you are forming it.

Tom Nied

Oh man, that is awesome. I got to study that. That's got to save weight. Any other weight saving ideas for the fuselage or tail?

Joseph Fisher

To save weight don't put landing gear on. I had to add 1.5 oz in the tail to ballance.

GallopingGhostler

I've always liked landing gear on my CL planes, personal preference issue. One would have to put a skid on if flying over concrete, asphaltic or Portland cement, or hard stand paving (packed earth) which would increase weight. I guess one could go to lighter weight RC wheels if nose heavy.

stuntflyr

Only a Combat guy would add tail weight to not put gear on one!