8'WS PBY-5 Vintage Plans Robert Sweitzer
no more that way all of the goo comes out in the fiber glass bag nice and clean
Here's what I'm up to while waiting for the filler to dry I've made the tops for the floats and I'm trying some rivets and lines on these to see how much detail you
can do w/ this method. If it doesn't come out no great loss I'll add them later in the paint and the tops should fit in side very tight check the progress photos there will be a total of 4 molds for these.
Bruce
An observation, I would get a couple of nylon or wood jaws for your vice. You will get a better flow of your solder with less heat. (Example Bessey Nylon Magnetic Vice Jaw $8.68 @ LOWES)
Nice looking metal work. Those are going to be great floats.
Bruce
of the lines and rivets will stand out it looks like it's going to work but really won't
know until it's cast in plaster check the progress photos.
Bruce
The others are P-38M and a mk.VI Mossie NF.
Bruce
Bruce, I don’t recall if you mentioned this or not but are you going to make the PBY in to an amphibian with retracts or use it as a float plane? Dan.
Then I touched up sanded the second set and put the rivets in on that set and applied the poly and 3/4oz fiberglass cloth.
And then I put the 5th coat of poly on the first set now I'll start making there casting boxes and keep sanding set 2 and get them ready to cast.
Bruce
I know guys use glue drops to simulate rivets but I tried another method mine are more pronounced but can be sanded down after casting I filled the holes w/ small plastic tube cut about 1/8" long.
Then I sprayed poly w/ my airbrush to help hold them in place while casting.
I also made casting boxes and lined them w/ duct tape it's Christmas tape so excuse the red and white stripes I thought this would be the perfect thing to use up this tape.
I'm trying to get the plugs into the plaster today if possible I know somebody will have some questions after seeing what I'm up to this time so bring them on guys!
Bruce
Then I remembered that I didn't WAX the plug
But it turns out you don't even need to WAX or at least this time for methe fiberglass pulled away no problem but the little pieces of plastic tube stayed in place accept a few so I twisted them one at a time and they came right out.
Then it was time for the lids (tops of the floats) these I waxed and they came out easy also w/ one exception there were bubbles under each flat part , this is no problem to get to and fill w/ some Fast & Final once they cure under the heat lamp for a few hrs.
Now I'll get the glass ready so I can poor the resin as soon as there ready because they have to set up for 24hrs be for I can CRACK the molds
Bruce
First I cut out three sheets for each mold of 5oz cloth the shape of the floats then three strips for each to cover the sides.
It was fairly easy the hardest part of these was the prep. after waxing I had to go back and clear out the wax from all of the holes.
This is not for people that don't have patience I know during this process I had to punch the holes thousands of timesbut I think the end results will show the hard work.
So now I cant even thinking about touching it until this time tomorrow so have a look at the progress photos.
Bruce
So in the mean time I'll go back to working on the brass float retracts.
Bruce
So in the mean time I started looking at my brass but I really need the floats to find out how long to cut the parts and make there pivots.
So I said the heck w/ it and started packing for my trip to the VA. Beach USA.
Air Show this weekend were camping and going to the show so there's a lot of stuff to pack.
I'll be sure and take a whole bunch of photos to post for you guys we already have our tickets and reservations for the camp ground VA. State park on the beach.
There should be a really big turn out because of the Mossie I heard there bringing a Lancaster down from Canada and a few others here's the planes I know about that will be there.
P51, P40 Corsair, Wildcat, Avenger, B17, B25, PBY, Spitfire, ME262, FW190, ,
FW44J, Hurricane,Yak3 and I heard something about a Swordfish also coming down from Canada.
Bruce
It looked like a wash out all together but the Rain slowed up while we were looking through the museum and I was able to run out and take a few photos of some of the planes on the tarmac.
A little bit later the sun came out for a short while and the grass runways began to dry in the light wind but they still weren't sure if any planes would fly but they were able to get a few smaller ones in the air.
I'm sorry to say none of the bigger fighters flew but they opened up all of the hangers and let every body look at all of the collection.
I still had a great time we met and talked to a great deal of people that knew about each of the planes history during and after the war.
I won't post all of the photos here but they will be posted on my other threads.
I've told you guys I would show you things even if they don't work out and this is one but let's see if we can save it if not then I'll go back and start over.
The only thing I can think happened was I rushed and didn't mix the resin well enoughit was the same that I used for the cowlings and same prportions mixed
SO to try and save the pieces this is what I have done. first I had to just give up on saving the rivetsbut that's not a big deal then I took some 3M resin and 2oz cloth and lined the inside of the floats then removed the plaster after the resin had set.
It was very sticky so I pressed all of the 5oz cloth down tight and smoothed baby power on to get it all smooth and remove all of the plaster chuncks.
Then I wiped down the whole outside of the float w/ alcohol and mixed more 3M resin and brushed on a thin coat, after that I mixed in some power to that resin and spread another thin coat now I let it setup it's going to take some sanding and spot putty to make a final finish but it almost always does w/ fiberglass parts.
Bruce
I’m surprised we don’t hear more about fiberglass failures, I grew up fiber glassing surfboards, and to get the right finished product is an art. There are so many variables (humidity, temperature, mixture of catalyst to resin & prayers to the surfing gods). A good glasser is hard to find. Don’t feel bad, anyone that has done much fiber glassing has had his share of redo’s.
and stayed that way for a few days.
I'm trying to save my pieces by sanding and some more resin & Bondo but have given up on the tops, for these I've cut some 1/8" thick 5 ply for those parts.
There would have been some wooden blocks under the fiberglas tops any way
I will maks sleves to capture the legs of the float retrect and they will be screw/ bolted inside the floator something like that.
Bruce
so I gave it a quick light coat of the 3M resin and a layer of 3/4oz cloth then a quick sand and finally a coat of Bondo.
The first float has had two coats of high build primer and is looking good
check the progress photos.
Bruce
Bruce
So I can move forward I have to get the whole wing ready so I took everything up put the drawings down w/ tape and covered w/ wax paper.
Then I made ready my stringers by sanding them to fit from my rough band saw cuts, I also made to short pieces to fill the gap over the wing tubes and fit the rings I cut earlier around the stringers and wing tube.
The other thing I have done was to drill the rest of the wire chase holes in the ribs along w/ the two alignment dowels toward the LE at the root of the wing.
These I made out of 1/4" poplar and there drilled in about 1" into the center section where the maple blocks for the engine mounts are.
I have also made a 8 small L brackets out of ALUM. these will be the pivots for the brass REC. & ROUND tubes for the float retracts.
Be for I can do anything farther I need to get all of the ribs up R13 glued in and the LE & TE on as well this way I know everything is where it needs be.
Check the progress photos they tell you more than I can say,
HERE WE GO AGAIN THE SERVER WON'T LET ME POST PHOTOS
Bruce
HAPPY Memorial Day Everybody ! Honor those who gave there lives so we could live free,
Bruce
a leftover piece to get The TE out of.
I had to glue a splice on the LE a bout 2" long toward the wing tips I had some scrap 1/2" I used for this.
Then I glued the The LE to the ribs using a scrap piece of 3/32" sheeting to hold
the correct spacing to accept the the balsa sheeting that I will add.
Then I glued in the wing tube w/ brown Gorilla glue after wetting everything w/ water using a small brush.
I also made some end caps from a piece of balsa so the wing tube has a stop block they may look big and heavy but there not I've drilled holes in them and ground away most of the bulk.
Check the progress photos.
for these I used 1/16" thick balsa w/ the grain running vertically on both sides of the
main spars.
Now that the wing is stable I'll start working on the float retract this morning.
Bruce
Last night besides gluing the sheer webs I also glued in the block for the locating dowel.
This morning I started to work on the retract I replaced the wire that comes in the retract w/ a straight piano wire the same size and then I cut a piece of poly tubing that fits the wire and glued it in the center of the leg.
After that I had to remove about 1/8"off the flat side of rib 15.
Then I cut out the shape of the retract unit through rib 13 so it can locate in the middle of that rib. I tried to keep the ply rib 14 in one piece but I will have to cut it so the moving parts will have room to function, and it will get joined to rib 13 w/ solid poplar blocks that the retract will screw into.
I'm also trying to keep both the retract servo and the aileron servo in the same bay so I will only have to have one access hatch on the bottom side of the wing.
I still have a great deal to figure out but you can see where I'm starting to go w/ this float retract.
WELL I DON'T HAVE TO TELL YOU IT WON'T LET ME POST PHOTOS AGAIN
Bruce