AA5BY

It doesn't clear if mounting the engine inverted?

rgburrill

Yes but since it is gas couldn'tituse a 6 ounce tank and get the same run times as a 10 ounce glowfuel tank.

ashtin

I would have do some reconstruction of the firewall to be able to mount it inverted. It comes with the bolt patterns for an electric setup as well as nitro/gas and I do believe the mounting points will be in the way. I don't really think I'm up for the task as my previous planes have all been foam.

ozzydude

Ouch...sorry to hear that dude...hopefully you'll heal up quick!

GBR2

My Feedback: (1)

Toledo Special

Even with the 13mm extension the standard muffler will not fit. Got a couple of suggestions from Pete

1. Mount the engine with the cylinder sticking straight out the right side and then use the Bisson Pits muffler

2. Mount the engine inverted and you then should be able to use the standard muffler but it will stick out the left side of the plane

Possible other solution is a Macs Muffler. The 6720 would have the same issue as the standard muffler. The 6720 has a 7.5° degree offset from 90, HOWEVER, they do make a 6721 (which is the same muffler) but it has a 15° offset. Either by itself or with the 13mm extension this should probably allow the muffler to clear the bottom of the plane. However, at this point I can't guarantee that as I haven't received my 6721 from Macs yet but I'll find out soon enough. If it does not work, I'll probably go the Bisson muffler route.

ashtin

Thanks for all the info, a big help for sure.

chandley43231

My Feedback: (2)

Well  hi all . Had some trouble last week end trying to run up my engine on a plane a capstone type trainer every time I picked the plane strait up it would die out on me . So I took out the high end needle and soaked it in alcohol  and withe the needle out and plug off put a small amount of fuel in carb and ran my electric starter to knock free any carbine. I can say it worked great  this baby is bulet proof I have a master airscrew 11x7 3 blade and it runs great

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

flyinwalenda:

what was the result of your "click" that you sent in to get fixed...

kork

My Feedback: (65)

Ashtin, call up Jtec mufflers and you can mount it inverted. They make them, I just posted pictures of them in the twin engine airplane forum.

jason

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I got the engine back today. They received it on 5/20 , worked on it 5/29 and completed it 6/3. They stated the crank pin deterorated and that also damaged the roller bearing .They also said the piston and liner was a bit scored but said that was probably due to a lean run. They rebuilt the engine in lieu of replacing it due to no stock on complete engines. So everything but the case, carb and head was replaced. They also said it ran good after break-in but I can't believe they ran over a gallon of fuel through it to break it in . Maybe they did.
I don't agree with the lean run because I was always erring on the side of rich even from the break-in and I received a few comments about running it rich.
I will reinstall it and see how it performs.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

interesting. does it "click" now that you've got it back?

mine has a good solid "click" as you turn it back and forth, much more than when I first got it. But it also flip starts by hand now soI somewhat assumed it was part of breaking in, That and I also have the 15gx here that is brand new and comparing the two I hear the same click...

hmmm... I'm going to fly it for now... may send it in next winter depending on how the season goes.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

It always clicked when rotating by hand and that was determined to be the roller bearing and they all should do it.  The louder clicking while it was running was the issue. Hopefully this resolved it for the long-haul.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

Ahhh... yeah no clicking on running here.

I noticed your location, do you ever go to the chenango bridge fly-in? You aren't far from where I grew up flying.

josephcraig

sometimes i see where you need to take some pliers and squeeze the end where it goes on the plug..work your way around on all sides slightly squeezing so when it goes on its tighter...when its taken on and off several times,it tends to loosen up...

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I went to the float fly off of  17 east in Harpursville  two weeks ago. I haven't gone to any of the events in Chenango yet.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

I always liked the field at Chenango bridge. Haven't been there in probably 10 or so years though... moved away from the area.



sorry for getting off topic...

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I got the engine remounted and I took a closer look at it. The slop in the prop hub that was present before I sent it in is gone now. Tight as a drum and it is the original hub. When I took it off ,the hub and key looked fine but it had a lot of side-side slop after it was pressed onto the crank.
I'm sticking with the story of the early batches of cranks not being built or heat treated properly.
I'll take it up tomorrow and see how it performs.

kork

My Feedback: (65)

Edit I should have read the directions! ha

Bonified Wingnut

I noticed the caps have a twist lock. I don't knownif that will help.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

Agreed, some pictures of the actual connection your making with the spark plug and cap may help here. I've been having some issues getting them to go on properly, butI've never had them move once properly installed. You have to push them on and then the make about a 45 degree turn clockwise to lock into place. With some spark plugs I've found it a significant challenge to get them to push in far enough to rotate.

Crash tested the 10GX this week... decided to go flying on a very windy day. 10GX survived with no issues.. 2 flips and started right up today once I got the plane repaired enough to try it out. The Bisson muffler got beat up a bit and has a couple cracks in it... oh well. Still works for my purposes.

ke6gkc

To all those who are on the fence about this engine,
Buy this engine, it is one of the sweetest 60 size engine I have ever used. I have about 8 tanks through mine and it keeps getting better and better. The black goo is no worse than a glow engine, just darker. The engine starts easy, is easy to tune and idles perfect with no hicups. I am running a 13x6 prop with a peak of about 9500 rpm in a Telemaster 40 that weighs 6lbs 12 ozs. What a floater. At 1/2 throttle i flys perfectly.
The muffler came loose on the third flight, I tightened it up hot and so far so good. It does seep a little but that is ok I will be installing a Macs soon, but I do not have to. I give Evolution a big thumbs up on this engine. Time to try the 15cc on a BTE Venture 60.

Bruce

AA5BY

Bruce.... I like the 10GX but I love the 15GX... it runs smoother. Suspect you will find the 15GX sweet as well.

jchorsejeff

I have a 8oz fortitude tank. Do I need to change the filter clunk out to the one that came with the engine or can I leave it alone? I already have it all installed and it isn't easy to get to but it can be done if it won't run reliably the way it is.

Thanks

Jeff

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

If it's a filtered clunk then it should be OK. A standard clunk will allow bubbles in the line. The plastic/filter clunk reduces the bubbles and filters the fuel. I used a brass sintered clunk in the smaller tank because the plastic/filter clunk was too light to keep the line down on the tank bottom as I was getting dead-sticks at just below 1/2 tank.

jchorsejeff

Glad to hear that. I should be able to fire it up today then.