VictoryRoll

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for your reply. I have not heard of this ring before. I did a quick Google on it. Is it difficult to install? I have not taken apart one of these small engines in a long, long, long time (~30 yrs ago). And never a gasser.

Also, do I need an engine kill switch? I typically use my computer radio (Futaba 10C) to do so, but I also know that gas engines are different cats, as you described when relating the break-in needs (or lack there of).

Any other thoughts/considerations?

I am also looking for a good article on gas engine installations. I have found a few, and was not immediately impressed.

Once again, thank you Bill... much appreciated.

Don

UPDATE: I just found directions ( pictorial directions at that!), for the Bowman ring install.
Because RCU does not seem to allow links to other forum websites, such as the "Flying" "Giants" you will have to replace the astericks (****) with "flying" "giants" (all one word, lowercase, no spaces)
http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=80544

Do you think it is necessary to separate the piston from the crank to do the install?


ALSO NOTE: There is another pictorial procedure for "lapping the Reed Valve" that one may wish to do since the engine is not mounted yet, or is already unmounted for the Bowman Ring install.

VictoryRoll

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@Microdon2 (Don, am I right?),

VictoryRoll

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@Benni,

I am so glad you got your throttle the way you wanted. I was thinking expo too, but as I said... I have zero experience w/ Specktrum or JR... been a Futaba guy since 1970's.

Your Revolver looks great! Fantastic job! ...and the Storm Trooper is awesome looking! I sure he'll be a great pilot!

I wish you the very best with your Revolver and I will post pics when I am done, which may be later than I originally thought, as workload is very high right now and when I do have time, I rather be flying than building, esp. at this time of the year.

Again, my best to you!

Don

wjcalhoun

Don:
There is a 'Gassers for Newbies' kind of thread both on RCU and on F(g$. Look in the gas engine forum.

You will hear both sides, definitively and strongly, on the kill switch question. I put kill switches in my gassers just because I like to be able to kill the engine when I want to, but others will argue correctly that it is yet another potential point of failure, and a way to cause a dead-stick if you happen to bump the kill switch. I deal with the latter issue by mapping the ignition to a dial switch on my 8FG. It is essentially impossible accidentally to kill the ignition that way. I did have accidental kills when the ignition was on a toggle, so that argument is certainly valid.

Rings are piece of cake; the piston does not need to come off the crank; in fact you can change the ring without dismounting the engine - just pull the jug. On reassembling, one trick you can use is to leave the jug bolts loose by a couple of turns, and then turn the engine over by hand to be sure that the piston is exactly concentric with the cylinder, and then gradually tighten the jug bolts as you turn the engine over.

Bennijiggs

Thanks for the kind words. Maiden flight was great. My adrenalin is still pumping. Here is the video.
http://youtu.be/eCHeihGrGZE

VictoryRoll

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Excellent, Bill.. thanks.

I will check out that thread on gassers.

Did you also do the "Lapping procedures on the Reeds" as shown/described in the F$G forum? Recommend?

Thanks Bill


er, one last question: Which, if any volt-regulator do you use. I am running a 6.6v 2100mah LiFE

VictoryRoll

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Hey Benni!

Great takeoff, man! Looks and sounds awesome!

Boy, you guys with the luxury of having an asphault strip... I am very jeolous!

Peace,

Don

wjcalhoun

Don
Yes, I did the reed block modification - the fine sanding of the block to help the reeds seat better.

JH313

Hey guys,
I have a smaller revolver with an OS 55ax and was thinking about adding a larger one because the smaller one flies so great, but I have a few questions:
Is there that big of a difference between the 59" and 70"?
Does the LG need to be beefed up?
How would the DLE 20cc fit, what kind of mods does it need?
What about a pull-pull?
Does the stock tailwheel suffice?
I look forward to reading through this entire thread, but if anyone could point into the direction (page or post number) of any of these questions, it would sure help me out, don't feel the need to rehash out what has already been said, I just need some help finding it.
Thanks in advance,
JH313

wjcalhoun

JH:

Hey guys,
I have a smaller revolver with an OS 55ax and was thinking about adding a larger one because the smaller one flies so great, but I have a few questions:
Is there that big of a difference between the 59" and 70"? YES, the R70 is more sedate
Does the LG need to be beefed up? YES, unless you land well, every time - really, EVERY time
How would the DLE 20cc fit, what kind of mods does it need? YES, none
What about a pull-pull? good idea - avoids being tail heavy, especially after you add twin aft-mounted elevator servos, which you should
Does the stock tailwheel suffice? yes, but beef up the soft balsa with a piece of hardwood or several layers of plywood
I look forward to reading through this entire thread, but if anyone could point into the direction (page or post number) of any of these questions, it would sure help me out, don't feel the need to rehash out what has already been said, I just need some help finding it. search my name, or microdon2; both of us have summarized necessary / recommended upgrades and modifications; also search ahicks - al has good wisdom on this bird also. many others as well - no offense meant by omission
Thanks in advance,
JH313

Good luck with it
Bill

JH313

Thanks Bill, that was extremely helpful. I look forward to this build.

JH313

JH313

One more question, is there anyway to search just this thread rather than the entire site?

wjcalhoun

Yes - below the gold search button there is a link 'search this thread' that works, mostly :-)

VictoryRoll

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Hi JH ! and Welcome!

ahicks

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For those that find themselves "search word challenged", you have my total sympathy. The fact I retired 2 years ago from a 20+ year carreer in IT not withstanding....

After reading Don's note I thought maybe something had changed? Nope. I tried several searches on this string looking for conversations related to the aluminum reinforcement mod for the landing gear that's been discussed at least twice. (HIGHLY recommended by the way)

I used "Search This Thread" and "Search" at the top right corner of this page, as well as the "Search This Forum" box at the bottom of the page. Search terms used were aluminum reinforcement and alum. reinforcement. In fairness, some serches referenced the discussions, but none produced one of them...

I remain "search word challenged". :^(
-Al

VictoryRoll

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Hi Al !

lopflyers

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But, I don't think you have to beef up the LG from the get go.

ahicks

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Don, search tutoring most welcome! As I said, I'm challenged! I learned a long time ago never to go personal on anyone, or take anything personaly. That aside, I did just use 2 words - aluminum reinforcement?

Re: the gear mod, I agree, it'll fly fine out of the box. I just prefer doing the mod before it breaks, not after? Much less complicated. Without the mod, it's a question of when, not if, you'll be doing it? I should mention if you hit hard enough you'll still break it. I recently proved that. I hit at a pretty high rate of speed, but when it let go it took the whole bottom half of the firewall with it! But it didn't break where they usually do!

-Al

VictoryRoll

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Hi Al,

Thanks for the reply... I agree and take the same approach to people/issues. Life is too short.

One hint, of which you probably already know with search engines, is to keep to as few words as possible, but most importantly, if the first search does not work, try others words. Now that may sound obvious, but many people just use same words and typically add more words to them, only making the results more obtuse or varied. It is especially difficult when you are trying to search, as we do on RCU, for opinions versus data. One has to try a variety of different words to try to "hit" the one(s) used by the original author. I hope that helps someone in their search trials & tribulations.

Here is an example of my life lately: (these are the words on my fortune cookie I got last night when out for dinner)! "FORTUNE NOT FOUND: ABORT, RETRY, IGNORE?"

lopflyers

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Ignore

microdon2

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I agree with ahicks - this gear - unmodified - it going to fold sooner or later. Grass or paved, I've seen both. If you're ok with that, and risking damage to fuse and wings (those wheel-pants are like knives...) then don't mod up front. The good news is - when they DO fold under - you'll REALLY be one of us!

btw - I was flying my Rev 59 \ OS 91 4s this morning at a rough grass and dirt field. The hard landings and rough taxiing that my Dubro gear \ new flooring easily handled made me laugh with amazment. I could never fly at this field with un-modified gear.

JH313

Gas related questions:
Is an optical kill needed if I have a hard switch between ignition battery and the ignition?
Do I need an ibec? I use 2.4, will the engine cause interference?
Other than tygon tubing, are there any other necessary changes needed to the fuel tank (different clunk, barbs, etc)?
Do I need a different engine mount?
Excuse all of the questions, but this would be first gas bird.
Thanks,
JH313

JH313

One more question, should I decide against the gas engine, which glow engine would you recommend?

ahicks

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Oh man, lot's of opinions on the IBECs! My take...
The most important function of an IBEC is an optical switch. I think one of those should be part of any well thought out sytem offering a safe and convenient method of turning your ignition on and off.

The second function of an IBEC is it's ability to drop battery voltage down to a safe level for 6v ignitions. If you're going to be getting a new engine, the DLE 20's have been shipping with a ign. module that will handle up to 8.4v for quite a while now. Point being an IBEC isn't really necessary with the 8.4v modules.

The big deal here, the things causing the most controversy, is a clashing of the old school ways of doing things and the new ways that just work. Not being an electronics wiz leaves me the option of going any way I like (ignorance is bliss!!) - which is generally going to favor something allowing me to build lighter and/or with less expense. That said, I uses a single A123 battery to power my planes, and an Rcexl opti switch to control my ignition.

Stock mount works, barbs a good plan but not required, nothing special regarding the tank, other than to make sure you use a gas proof stopper. What you need to do is keep an eye on is the type of fuel tubing used and maintaining air tight connections.

wjcalhoun

JH
As Al said, you will hear many opinions regarding the kill switch. Personally, I like them 1) to keep any possible ignition interference from the receiver [the optical isolation part], and 2) to provide a way to kill the engine from the transmitter. You can accomplish those goals another way - by using a separate ignition battery, and by ensuring that your throttle trim can completely close the throttle (or you have a choke servo that does the same thing). Personal preference.

I run my ignition circuit as follows: battery -> hard physical switch ->optical kill ->ignition module. That way, if my hard switch is OFF, I KNOW that my ignition is off, regardless of the transmitter, and if the optical switch LED is ON, I KNOW that the ignition is energized.

If you do use an optical kill, think very carefully about what physical switch on the transmitter you map it. Toggle switches are easy to bump, and kill your engine in the air. Dead sticks aren't the end of the world, but you don't want unnecessary dead sticks. I map my kill to a rotary dial on my Futaba 8FG. You could put in on a slider also. Either of those is pretty much impossible to activate accidentally. If you have to use a toggle, try to use one that is out of the way, and flag it with red tape.

On the fuel tubing question, think about Viton (granger or McMaster). It is expensive but does not get stiff with age or gasoline exposure. A stiff clunk line may give you fuel feeding problems after a year or two. Alternatively, just change out all your tygon lines every year or so. I plumb my tank with Viton, and use Viton to the engine, except for a short 2" segment from the last fuel filter to the carb. I do that so I can confirm that there is gas flowing to the carb. I use tygon for the fill/drain line, and for the vent line.

Bill