ram3500-RCU

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Here is the one of the top formation lights with the foil "bezel" installed. A 3/32" piece of brass will emboss some nice fasteners in it. A pattern of (6).

JSZ

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Where's the blue???

ram3500-RCU

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Here is the center section with the aluminum installed. I will wet sand the aluminum with 400, and rough up the glass, and it is ready to begin the paint.

ram3500-RCU

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????? Do you mean where are they located?

stivvy

Hi Guys,

A lot has been discussed regarding keeping the Moki cool, using baffles between the cylinders, but I haven't seen how this has been done.

Do the baffles mount inside the cowl or is there a better way of doing it ?

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Steve D

wphilb

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Here are three ways to do it that I'm aware; here are pics of two. None are my invention and I would be hard pressed to ID the creator(s) but I will try to give some credit.

One is creating a circular baffle of roofers ali by making one pattern and replicating it five times. the left end of one is pop riveted to the right end of the next and this is repeated creating a circle. The whole mess is then clamped to the exhaust pipes of each engine so the whole mess stays attached to the engine. I did this on my N28, I got the idea of RCScalebuilder, a gent who did a Moki powered F4F.

A faster way if to merely make a pattern for a baffle just inbetween the cyclinders, make 5 and then wire them to each other passing wires around the cylinders between the fins. Mitch E did this on his Top Gun Waco, worked just fine.

The second is mounting it to the cowl, I think<place></place><city></city>Gary does this and has pics here?

The builder of My Meister F4U also did it that way, but made it so that it also attaches to the fuse and the cowl can be removed leaving the baffles still around the engine. So I guess you could count that as the third method.

Whit

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GR7Racer

Gary,

On the rudder linkage setup, I'm attaching the clevis of both push rods much closer to the center of the servo. Even though this is different than the distance from center of the rudder pivot to the ball links on the other end. I get no bind unless you deflect the rudder to a ridiculous amount of travel. I find that as long as you keep the rudder control rod (that passes through the carbon pivot rod) parallel to the servo arm, you will have no problems. Easiest way to do this is to make sure that the pushrods going from the servo to the control rod are the same length. I like to keep my travel adjust settings in my TX as close to 100% (or greater) as possible to insure I'm getting the best power and resolution possible. Same applies for the dual rate settings.

I'm looking for a more robust solution to the all-thread passing through the carbon pivot rod too. I can't use your method as I have glued the tiller into the carbon rod on the other end and this would make the install permanent.

Looking forward to adding the shrouds on the exhaust when you start sending them out.

Thanks for your contributions to this thread.

KennyMac

lecorsair

Hello
to cool my engine , small problem the diameter is too large relative to the engine hood

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I have a template for the space in between cylinders. I cut baffles out of 1/8 ply, tack them in place with the cowl installed, and the remove the cowl and permentantly install them with epoxy and glass reinforcement. Very simple, and works great. Then it gets painted flat black.

I'll look for some more pictures of the finished product.

I'm including these baffles for the Moki engines with my cowl flap kit.

ram3500-RCU

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It looks to me like you could cut the part off that covers the space between the cylinders, and epoxy them to the cowl like I do.

ram3500-RCU

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This will also be addressed when I do the pictorial on the cowl sectioning, as baffles are a must with the Moki engines IMO..

ram3500-RCU

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A couple pictures of the baffles I install.

Chad Veich

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Send me the template Ram and I will laser cut them for your kit if you like. Shouldn't cost much.

ram3500-RCU

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PM on it's way. Thanks.

ram3500-RCU

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Dan, give me a call if you can. I have a question on the exhaust shrouds.

stivvy

Guys - Thanks to all for the quick response re Moki cooling.

Simple when you kick a few ideas around.

Very grateful, what a great thread this is.

Steve D

ram3500-RCU

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Yes Steve, I agree. The contributions by everyone have been wonderful, and very helpful. Thank you all again.

wphilb

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Gary,

ram3500-RCU

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Yes, very easy Whit. I use some glass and epoxy on the back side to reinforce the joint. I have one to do and I'll take some better pictures this time.

ram3500-RCU

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HORRIBLE NEWS!!!!!!!

Mike, who has been working with another poster here on the purchase of his unfinished Corsair, closed the deal and had his brother in law pick up the plane then swing over to LA to pick up some other items he had also purchased. While in LA for the evening, THE TRUCK WAS STOLEN!!!!!!!!

Mike has lost the Corsair, Moki 250, and all the other accessories that came with the plane.

Please, please be on the lookout for a CARF Corsair in the LA area. It is in the silver gel coat still, and has just about every upgrade you could get for it. The wings fold, and have been converted to electric as has the gear. The Moki 250 is new as far as I know. Maybe Mike can post and fill us in more. I just wanted to get this posted quickly before these crack heads dispose of this stolen property on some unsuspecting bargain hunter. Please don't let this happen to Mike.

so sorry Mike, and I hope this has a happy ending.

Gary

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Here is a link to Mikes thread, here in warbirds, on the theft.

Let's work together to get the word out.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11541198/tm.htm

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I wish I could help, I used to live in SoCal and frequent all the hobby shops and flying fields. I would gladly post posters and tell people to keep an eye out for it. Heck Id even pose as a buyer for it to sting the guy!

Hey Gary is the baffle totally necessary if the cowl flaps work in accordance with engine temps or has this been tested? Just curious because the baffle is not attractive even painted black.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I think all most of us can do at this point Chris is talk about this in these threads and get the word out. The more folks that know about this the better. Chances are this plane will surface, and when it does, we all hope someone in the know can do the right thing.

As for the baffles, "not attractive", I'll insulted. Seriously, I know, but on my Top Gun plane, I air brushed some rear cylinders on them and they didn't look too bad. They kinda disappear. Not hard to do. From just a few feet, you don't notice them.

Are they necessary, IMO, absolutely. The math just does not work without them. It is impossible to get the 1 to 4 ratio of incoming area to outgoing area with out them. Even a 1 to 2 ratio is out with a big round open cowl. The result is hot air cavitation around an increasingly hot engine. Your power sags and looses power when you go to throttle up. Acts like your not getting fuel, but really, it is overheating. At critical times, this can result in a rushed landing and a loss of the aircraft as I have seen in video. Personally, I was able to work through it safely. Baffles were added (fixed cowl flaps on this aircraft), and no more issues like that. The full scale radials used baffles for the same reason. The cowl flaps are a very good addition and do help when fully open to give the engine more safe time in taxi, but in the air, you don't want to have to keep them open all the way for aerodynamics and appearance. With the baffles, you don't need to.

Now this may not be necessary with the new Authentic Scale radials, as Antonio clams they run much cooler, but this is yet to be proven.

panhandler

Gary ,, trying to call you but your phone goes to message.

JSZ

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You see Frank T. Has one of these up for sale here on RCU