erans

Today Igot few things done:
Got the engine throttle cable connected
Cut a hole for air above (or should Isay bellow for inverted installation) the carburettor
Bolted the engine into place.

Eran

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

take the cylinder head off, it looks like it will come out then.

erans

JeffH - Taking the head off will probably allow the engine to come out.
A friend pointed it out to me last Wednesday.
Being someone who had never taken engine apart, this option didn't even crossed my mind.

Thank you for the advice,

Eran

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Hey you been busy! I've been off on business for the past couple weeks so I haven't seen what you been up to

I hope to be back on mine here real shortly.

Casey

erans

Hi Casey - I am looking forward for the return of your build.
You left us (followers of your build) so close to the climax

With many commitments recently my progress is very slow, but I do try to do something no matter how small to keep the momentum going.
Ihave the bits and pieces for the fuel system on my desk, and will try to make more progress on the weekend.

Eran

erans

Igot the fuel tank all plumbed up and the plan was to make a bracket to mount it in the aeroplane today.
Plumbing fuel tanks is up there with the things Ido not like doing...

However, when I was flying another aeroplane this morning Ihad a mid-air and lost part of the wing, so Iwill have to look into fixing that first...

Iwill be back soon...

Eran

erans

It has been long time since I made progress on this build.
The mid-air wing fix took much longer then expected, and then other things consumed my free time.

So finally today Imade trays to mount the ignition, ignition battery and the fuel tank.
These trays will be located on two "formers" as shown in the photos.
The top tray (which will be the bottom tray when the aeroplane is on its wheels) will be removable to allow maintenance to the ignition and the ignition battery.

erans

The glue is drying on the second "former".
Once dry, Iwill glue the ignition + battery tray and finish the removable fuel tank tray.

Eran

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Eran,

you are doing a great build, but why didn't you use the servo trays that came with the kit? They are are also good for holding the tank and batteries.

Regards,

Jose G

fokke

Realy great work and beautiful model !

erans

Jose - The truth is that after such a long period of build with so many interruptions, Ican't find some of the kit parts
My "build room" can be used to explain chaos theories... Ifind the parts months after Ineed them...

fokke - Thank you for the comment.
Jose is the one deserves the compliments on the look of the model, producing this awesome short kit.
My build is not doing it any justice.

Eran

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Tell me about it!! I spend more time looking for stuff than building! !@#

JG

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Eran, Casey

you guys asked a while ago to give some detail on the canopy latch and the slats building so here I will post some pics hopefully will make it more clear.

The canopy does not have to be functional for a scale competition but it sure gives a nice touch when you display the model with the canopy open. The problem is keeping it close in flight, the magnets don't work all the time for such a big canopy. I didn't want to risk opening in flight and getting ripped out or worst.
I made a simple latch operated by small torque rod right under the canopy sill. It's invisible from outside and can be operated by a servo or by pulling a string.
In my case I will connect the string to the folding step on the port side of the airplane. When you push the step, it pulls the string which rotates the rod and un-latches the canopy.

The whole thing is re-moveable, there is a short fixed aluminum tube under the sill that holds one end of the torque tube and a small piece of ply on the front end. The collar keeps thing in place

The rod is a small brass tube with a small hook made of a flat brass strip silver soldered together. The spring behind the instrument panel keeps the latch closed.

Pics attached.

JG

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Here is another shot that shows behind the instrument panel.

JG

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

The slats were built using the glass parts that come with the kit but since they can get flimsy, I added an inner skin of thin fliteskin, but 1/64 ply will work as well. This makes them really stiff and holds the shape even when it seats under the sun.

It's easier to make these slats before you install the slats pushrods in the wing. After the wing s sheeted, place the slats over the wing and pencil mark how far back the go.Cover the area with wax paper.
Cut the inner skin as wide as the slat and tape over the slat area, then apply some epoxy to the slat and tape to the inner skin. Hold everything down with tape until it sets. Best result with Hisol.
Once dry, just trim the inner skin.

Pics attached.

JG

erans

Hi Jose

Thank you for the detailed posts, it is highly appreciated (also my canopy will not be functional).

Couple of questions regarding the slats:
Any suggestions how to make the inner Flitskin solution if the rods already in place?
Should Icut the rods to length (hopefully correct)that will touch the supplied slat inner curve, and use Flitskin with cuttings for the rods to go through?

And to my main question, how the rods actually connect to the slats? Just Epoxy in the gap between the Flitskin and the slat?

Eran

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

ERan,

if the rods are in place, make small holes on the inner sheet first, then epoxy the outer skin. Do not epoxy to the rods at the same time, just in case you need to make some adjustments.

For your last question: fill with epoxy the holes and tape the slat to the wing with the pushrods in the retracted position.

I was hoping Casey would have a video of the slats, but could not find it.

JG

erans

Jose - Thank you for the clarification.
I do not recall Casey posting a slats video.

Which Hysol do you use?
Is it the Hysol EPL0151?

Eran

erans

It is all a bit slow at the moment, but here are couple of photos of the mounting arrangement for the fuel tank tray and a photo of the tray screwed into place (using Dubro Socket Head Servo Mounting Screws).

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Jose whats the largest gas engine the cowl can conceal? Will a DLE 35RA work? Its a nice compact engine.
Since I cant seem to sell my kit Im looking at my options to build it either electric or gas.
If I go electric I want a good sound module to enhance the model.
I just need to revisit my kit and wrap my head around it again.

PS. Never mind on the DLE I just answered my own question because I happen to have a friends DLE here so I checked. It will end up just in front of the radiator sticking out quite a bit. Even an extension would have to be 2-3 inches to tuck the engine into the cooler area.

These V-12 war birds make it tough to hide engines! They are good candidates for electric.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Erans,

Sorry for the delay, here is what I use:
Hysol E-20HP Epoxy Adhesive, I get it form Kimco Distributing, I'm sure Loctite has dealers down under.

Second Q. to build the inner side of the slat, I use .178mm (.007 inch) sheet. The wing sheeting is thicker .26mm. YOu can also use very thin ply, thin carboard, etc. does not have to super strong, just flexible to go around the leading edge and provide rigidity. When it comes to airplanes, less is more.

JG

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Chris,

I think a 35 cc will fit comfortably. There are a numebr of new engines right now in the market. I bought the DLE55RA for the Ta152 and I'm very impressed with the quality and compact size.
The spinner is 6" diameter and it widens behind, also if you can use a prop extention, it may be able to fit where the oil cooler is?

Casey Ricks is building the electric version with sound from Benidini.
He can give you lots of info, I never used electric power.

You will enjoy building this 109.

I hope this helps.

Jose G.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the follow up Jose.
Like I was saying up above I checked and its going to stick out way too much for my taste. The other engines like 20,25,28's from what Ive seen all have vertical plugs too.

I looked at my TT 120Pro just for reference and it would stick out as well. I have an OS 160FX in a biplane that hauls it around very well but Im sure now it will stick out a lot.

Electric is looking a lot better! Lol

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Chris,

my OS 1.60 stick out very little. I think is the best option unless you move the engine 2 inches back.

JG

erans

Chris

If you are considering the OS 160FX, but want petrol power, you should consider the MVVS 30 SP(slant plug), which was my original pick for my build until it was required for another aeroplane.
Ihave attached some dimensions comparison (they are from the "normal" plug configuration, but engine dimensions are identical) and a photo showing the slant plug model.

Jose - Thank you for the clarifications,

Eran