splais

My Feedback: (25)

So I want to put all the nomenclature on my 1/6 scale P-47. I had ordered a dry transfer set, but the instructions state it is better to apply them to a glossy surface. I had already dull coated the surface (Ultracote) for panel lines and rivets. I should probably asked this question before doing anything, but oh well.

Question: Is there anything to choose between dry transfer and water slide? In my particular case, due to already spraying lightly with Lustrekote dull clear, does it make any difference using water slide or dry transfer nomenclature decals?

Thanks, Steve

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Be they water slide or dry transfer both work better on a glossy smooth surface. The MAIN importance is a smooth, emphasis on smooth, surface.
I would add a few dry transfers and see how they look. Perhaps some where not so noticeable if you want to take them off. You can clear over them once they are applied. Depending on where you got them it may or may not be necessary.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I prefer dry transfers for a scale project. I think they look more like paint. The extra material around the water slide decals is often very visible as well.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Ia anyone aware of a company besides Promark that makes 1/6 scale dry transfer nomenclature for the P-47?

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Getstencils.com

Casey

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I just got an order from Get stencils. It was great. She already had the font and size I needed, as my airplane is fairly popular. She sent me examples via email, and the transaction was smooth. I got them in a week after payment. I think they can do just about anything. She actually sent me a botched extra page so I can practice. Very nice!

For the larger lettering, I had her make me a frisket stencil, so I can airbrush that.

I have had trouble with waterslide decals blush around the perimeter of the nomenclature. I tried everything in the book to get it to go away and no luck. I even used the micro-sol, set to apply them. I too prefer dry rub.

jdeluyck

My Feedback: (6)

Thnaks for the plug Casey and vertical grimmace

Dry Transfers will adhere to matte finish. I have done it on several warbirds... I too do not care for water slide decals, but I am admittedly biased.

Jerry

splais

My Feedback: (25)

yes, I am getting the dry transfers to stick just fine. The biggest problem I am having with them is the fact that balsa is very soft. In many cases the pressure it takes to release the transfer indents the balsa.

My problem with water slide (unless something has changed in the past 20 years) is the fact you can see the clear backing that stays with the slide decal, plus the fact that over time it becomes more and more visible. At least this was my experience 20-30 years ago when I was building plastic models.

Edhamp

Can I suggest you try products like Microset and Microsol which is also used by the plastic kit modellers. These help to soften the decal for those difficult areas as well as get rid of that visible film.

You can find full instructions here from Tailormade decals in Germany. I prefer dry transfer which look better but more expensive. You also need to make sure that you use a clear coat to protect them and be careful if you use fuel proofer as some can affect the transfer. I find KlassKote works nice if used lightly.

http://www.tailormadedecals.com/inde...d=26&Itemid=35

edp

My Feedback: (5)

The trick w/ wet slide is to have a gloss surface then apply decal. Spray over the decal again w/ a gloss coat, After full cure, apply you final finish. This will set the decal sheet into the work w/o silvering. When I do plastic models, I use Future floor polish as the gloss clear.
I use dry on fiberglass and wet on glassed surfaces. I make my own decals and have printed down to 1/16" block font and is still readable for a friends C-47. If you trim close, the edges disappear.

OVSS Boss

I build both plastic and did my first big scale ship that is about done. On a big RC models of about any size, I would use dry transfer if possible. To me, as stated before, they look more like paint, but also, positioning is much more relaxed. No Microsol, Micorset, and they do work great, but when you have a product that is so easy to apply and position as DT, to me it is no contest. Also, I shot Model Master on my 190, and I did not in any way smooth out the finish, I wanted it to look like it was shot over a rough paint job, and I have to admit I about giggled when I was done, DT's are cool. Got my from Flightline Graphics in Great Britain.

Marc

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

What scale is that D9? That looks very good. I have a 1/5 Holman D9 and 1/5 TA 152 I am building.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I am really disappointed in my search for a COMPLETE set of dry transfer nomenclature in 1/6 scale. The only complete set I've found were the water slides from IFlyTallies and they only come in 1/5 scale, too big for my 80" P-47.

I tried Promark, but their set only had about half the easily seen nomenclature. I also tried GetStencils; but they didn't have any pre-made sets. Where willing to do it if I told them exactly which ones I wanted.

With all the arf bashing and war bird kit building hard to believe you can't get all the nomenclature you could want in any scale.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I take it there are some nomenclature that you do not know about, or do not know how they look? Might have to do some serious internet serching, and compile some documentation, as Getstencils will make it, if you can tell them what it looks like.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Try aeroloft.com They may have what you want. If they don't advertise it in the scale you want, just ask that they do a set in a reduced or enlarged size. I have had this done .

As far as going over a rough surface or other than glossy...I have had no problem with applying dry transfer to fabric control surfaces. The DT comes off the backing whole but may not be adhered completely to some of the recessed weave. A shot of clear coat sets them right down and into any weave or panel lines etc.

Jerry and Vicky at Get Stencils have done a couple of custom sets for me and were great to work with and reasonably priced. Just call them. I sent a couple of pages for exactly what I wanted for a P-51 in a standard WWII font (available as freeware on the net) and some custom nose art....see the result for yourself.

Data plate info is custom for this plane for serial number, custom Pilot/armorer/crewchief info, "Willy G" and "Badger Queen" in my hand drawn graphic to match the subject model (my granfathers plane) perfectly recreated and delivered as a dry transfer

splais

My Feedback: (25)

That's my point. with all the "scaling up" going on you would think these companies/individuals would be able to put together complete sets already assembled. Pro mark comes close, but the only real complete set I've found is the water slide 1/5 scale.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Maybe you could get the set from Iflytailies,then scan it and send it to Get Stencils?