Ys175 cdi
#1
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Ys175 cdi
Had an interesting happening running a new YS 175 CDi on a test stand. Using a glow plug instead of the CDi. Engine started easily and ran at low throttle for a couple of minutes then when I advanced throttle the spinner bolt broke. Went back to low throttle with no problems and shut down motor. Prop bolts still tight and no sign of backfire or reverse direction. Suggestions?
#2
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RE: Ys175 cdi
What needle setting did you use? Make sure that you run it rich compared to a cdi setup to take into account the glow plug.
Also, if it was a new APC, they have a habit of needing to be retightened after a while, otherwise it may slip or the spinner back plate may slip.
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RE: Ys175 cdi
When you installed the prop etc did you align one blade vertical in line with TDC, if so did you check if the prop blade was still in line with TDC.
If not still aligned you suffered a back fire of some degree, if it was still aligned and all was tight as stated you most likely had a failure of the spinner
bolt. I have seen many bolts suffer from fatigue and break.
As a matter of interest you shouldn't use a spinners alum back plate directly against the drive washer, the splines do not align, a
good alternative is to use a servo disc, the big round one's, and drill out the center to suit your crankshaft and install between back plate and drive
washer, when prop nut is tightened the plastic disc then deforms and takes on the spline shape of each side.
Saves the stripping of the drive washer splines when you have a backfire,
And yes people complain about the spinner gap being too big and then remove it.
YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER BUT YOU CAN'T MAKE IT DRINK.
YS SERVICE DOWN UNDER
If not still aligned you suffered a back fire of some degree, if it was still aligned and all was tight as stated you most likely had a failure of the spinner
bolt. I have seen many bolts suffer from fatigue and break.
As a matter of interest you shouldn't use a spinners alum back plate directly against the drive washer, the splines do not align, a
good alternative is to use a servo disc, the big round one's, and drill out the center to suit your crankshaft and install between back plate and drive
washer, when prop nut is tightened the plastic disc then deforms and takes on the spline shape of each side.
Saves the stripping of the drive washer splines when you have a backfire,
And yes people complain about the spinner gap being too big and then remove it.
YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER BUT YOU CAN'T MAKE IT DRINK.
YS SERVICE DOWN UNDER
#6
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J. Krueger,
I know this is an old posting but did you figure this one out? I'm having the exact same problem. I cannot get to full throttle with a glow plug on the 175 CDI without pre-ignition.
I know this is an old posting but did you figure this one out? I'm having the exact same problem. I cannot get to full throttle with a glow plug on the 175 CDI without pre-ignition.
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A lot of people prefer it that way to eliminate the weight and complexity of the CDI equipment. (KISS). I am currently troubleshooting some motor issues so I just wanted to make the diagnosis simpler. I prefer the CDI personally.
I was told that an additional head gasket is required to reduce the compression for use with a glow plug. I never tried it out though.
I was told that an additional head gasket is required to reduce the compression for use with a glow plug. I never tried it out though.
#10
A lot of people prefer it that way to eliminate the weight and complexity of the CDI equipment. (KISS). I am currently troubleshooting some motor issues so I just wanted to make the diagnosis simpler. I prefer the CDI personally.
I was told that an additional head gasket is required to reduce the compression for use with a glow plug. I never tried it out though.
I was told that an additional head gasket is required to reduce the compression for use with a glow plug. I never tried it out though.
I have had a lot of trouble with silicone chips that are almost invisible caused by Du-Bro fuel line. This line is very soft and very easy to gouge when installed as well as having trash in it before use.
You will have to remove the needle valve brass assy from the carb and back flush the carb housing.
I also flush all fuel line before use....all this has solved most of my problems such as yours.
Of course I use a filter but the silicone chips were already in the carb and fuel line.
I have run my engine a lot on glow and it does not require another head gasket.
Dave
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Thanks Dave. Just to be clear we're talking about the 175 right? I can run a glow plug in my 170 no problem.
Where are you running your HS needle on your 175 with the glow plug? With CDI I am at 5/6 out but with glow plug I am still predetonating even at 2 turns out.
My motor runs great now with CDI but couldn't get it up to full throttle with a glow plug. My fuel passageways are clean.
Where are you running your HS needle on your 175 with the glow plug? With CDI I am at 5/6 out but with glow plug I am still predetonating even at 2 turns out.
My motor runs great now with CDI but couldn't get it up to full throttle with a glow plug. My fuel passageways are clean.
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Couple observations based on 6 years YS ownership,,,,
The reason most people run initially with a glow is for running in purposes.
All the symptoms above are fuel (ie lack) related. either open the main needle more
and/or check the clunk in the tank.
Xman's tip above with the servo disc is a cracker as is using a cut down sanding disc
or piece of liteply cut into a disc, Either that or welcome to the world of YS propdriver
replacement
Doubtless some of the guys here will read the following and think "I've never" etc etc
but again based on years and lots of use, get used to tightening your prop nuts at
least every 30 or so runs as a precaution.
PS
If you can always splash out a few pennies more and buy YS fuel tube.
The reason most people run initially with a glow is for running in purposes.
All the symptoms above are fuel (ie lack) related. either open the main needle more
and/or check the clunk in the tank.
Xman's tip above with the servo disc is a cracker as is using a cut down sanding disc
or piece of liteply cut into a disc, Either that or welcome to the world of YS propdriver
replacement
Doubtless some of the guys here will read the following and think "I've never" etc etc
but again based on years and lots of use, get used to tightening your prop nuts at
least every 30 or so runs as a precaution.
PS
If you can always splash out a few pennies more and buy YS fuel tube.
Last edited by Bustabloodklaart; 02-24-2015 at 02:37 AM.
#13
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After a couple of years because of a move, got back to my 175 cdi. Opened the needle to 3 full turns and it ran fine until the black check valve came off the head. How exactly is that part attached to the engine?
John
John
#14
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I think it's originally press fit only. YS has told me to sand up the surfaces and apply a very light coat of JB Weld and hammer it back in. This has worked on my 170. Use a nut driver on the plastic injector and hammer on that.
#15
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If the injector came out cleanly from the head, meaning that whole brass body came out and the aluminum of the head is intact, then you can clean the whole thing with denatured alcohol to remove fuel residue. Once that is done use a small jewelers file to rough up the opening in the head and the brass of the injector. The end result you are looking for is not to remove material as much as provide a reply good rough surface, almost like very light threads, for the JB weld to bite into. Then mix up some JB Weld and apply a thin coat to the injector. Once that is done press the injector back into the head.
Now if the injector is broken that is a different story and will require a trip to Richard for repair and maybe a new head.
Does that help?
Now if the injector is broken that is a different story and will require a trip to Richard for repair and maybe a new head.
Does that help?
#17
Sincerely, Another Richard
YS F-120/Hangar 9 100 inch J3 Cub