jchorsejeff

Put this engine in a fourty size christen eagle. Just finished 5lbs 7oz.

AA5BY

That is the same weight as my 10GX plane and it flies very well.

jchorsejeff

Just finished maiden on the christen eagle. Engine jerked the plane around plenty good. Used an 11*6 zoar for break in since I didn't have a 10*6 handy. It took awhile for the idle to settle in but it kept getting better.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I've run about 3 tanks through it since I got it back. It started right up on the 4'th flip and there was not much much residue so I guess Horizon did break it in! I am still treating it like a new engine though.
The tuning was right on and it sounded good and flew well but it's not quite where it was before the problem occurred but it is slowly getting better just like before. Time will tell but I'm hoping it was just a defective crank that caused the issues

C. Alan

My Feedback: (3)

Well my fingers are starting to heal up, so I got out to the shop last night with my 78 year old Dad, and we got my engine started again. I was running a 11x6 prop, and we were able to tune it to the point where I was getting just over 10k rpms at full throttle. The engine is mounted on a panwnee 40, and I hope to maiden the setup on Saturday morning. My Dad ran old Hornet 60 sized engines back in the 1950s, and he really enjoyed seeing how technology has progressed.

On a side note, I am running a Frsky telemetry system. I got the RPM pickup that came with the engine to plug into the Frsky telemetry hub by switching the hot and signal wire. The signal off the rpm meter is compatable with the Frsky hub, and I am also running a temperature pickup off the head. I get both the RPM and temperature readout at my auxilary screen I mounted to my JR8103. The way my engine is tuned now, I am pulling just over 10k rpms on the ground at 190 degrees (I know it is a little hot). I curious to see how the prop unloads when in the air, andwhat kind of head temperature I will get.

Franco2fly

This may be a silly question, but is there a similar thread that is devoted to just the 15cc? I now own two of the 15cc Evo's and there are some striking differences. First the 15 peaks out with less than a full turn out (about 290 to 310 degrees of rotation), my Evo 10 needle comes out almost 2 full turns. I am running 14x6 props on both 15's and I see just under 10k RPM on the ground. Both of the 15's unload similarly once in the air, and telemetry tells me 10,200 is about where they settle after a long low pass. My one serious concern is the temp readings that I see. On one plane where the engine is completely exposed I see 290 degrees.




But on the new plane where the engine is en-cowled temps rise to 320 degrees and that's at full throttle
After last Saturday's findings I put an extra baffle in the cowl to deflect more air across the head.

Any one else have similar findings?

The new 15 has a better seal around the muffler, but the needle seems to be very sensitive. plus or minus a click or two makes major differences.


Maybe Pete can chime in here?


KKKKFL

AA5BY

Have you baffled or dampered off the left side cheek opening? If not, the air entering that side is competing for the exit opening area and thereby limiting the flow past the head.

Franco2fly

Now that's a good tip..  I'll put some baffling on the left side as well.  I don't believe that there is competition for "exit" but I'll keep it in mind.  What I did install is a vane on the inner right side cheek that directs airflow towards the cylinder head.   It tested well in the driveway and needs flight test next.  Following the flight test, I can easily put some baffling on the left side, should it be necessary.

KKKKFL

Franco2fly

Is there a 15cc thread?  I'm curious as to the differences between the two engines.  Out of the box, the muffler is better on the 15cc and doesn't leak oil.  The other difference is the needle valve settings listed in the manuals.  There's a one full turn difference with the 15 being leaner.  Can anyone else confirm the differences from personal experience?


KKKKFL

AA5BY

The 15 is a bit smoother and easier to hand start.

Franco2fly

Where do you have the needle set what size prop and what RPM does yours top out at

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Has anyone tried a pitts style muffler on one of these yet?

kork

My Feedback: (65)

Go back to the bottom of page 61. I do like the pitts and the engines run good inverted.

jason

brunofporto

Anyone knows the front bearing specification or equivalent? I could only find the 52NX, 60NX, rear bearing information, but not the 91/120NX front bearing.

• Front Bearing: 91/120NX, 10/15/20GX by Evolution Engines (EVO91109)

• ???

  [/list]
  The rear specification and equivalent bearings:
  • BB, Rear (Open Race): 52NX, 60NX by Evolution Engines (EVO052110)

  • 15X28X7 [ 6902 M ] Bearing with metallic retainer

  • 6902 Stainless Steel

    [/list]
    My LHS and H9 distributor here do not have the original parts and would be nice to know off the shelf subtitutes that I could find anywhere 
    
    Thank you!

FlyBy8

My Feedback: (1)

Man, 62 pages....

Can anyone tell me what 3 blade props have been used successfully?

Pete Bergstrom

11-6 or 7, 12-6 or 7

Pete

Falcon6667

The evo. 10 is a fuel squeezer. So I used a 6 oz tank , how do you guys get the clunk to work?

Russmall

I'm having a persistent problem with my Evo 10 engine and need help. But first let me state that I love this little engine, have one gallon of fuel through it and it just keeps running better and stronger. The problem is that it dies at idle on down lines, almost every time such as in a stall turn or similar situation. It's very annoying and I know that I will eventually damage the airplane if I don't get this solved. I keep the idle as high as possible but it doesn't help. Anyone else had this problem and came up with a solution?

Franco2fly

I would really need more information so what I say is pure speculation. Lets eliminate obvious things first. 

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Haven't started flying my 10 yet, but if it were one of my bigger engines, I'd say it was lean (most likely the low speed). Generally, that's the #1 reason an engine will quit in flight.

brunofporto

I had this behavior and the engine was only lean. 

Russmall

Thanks for the replys everyone. I hope that I was clear enough in explaining the problem, which is, the engine only dies when in a vertical dive while at idle. Today I changed the fuel line inside the tank (8 oz.). The fuel line was loose enough to easily pull on and off the clunk and brass tubing so it may have been leaking air bubbles. I replaced the tubing and added tubing bands for clamps to keep it snug like in the picture. I will fly the airplane tomorrow and see if there's a difference.

Falcon6667

I use fuel barbs,thats a sure fired way to keep them tight, also use the small line clamps...my question is how to get the dam clunk to work propley in a small tank..

Russmall

Falcon, I'm using fuel barbs too but the fuel soaked tubing would still slide on and off very easily. I was just thinking that the tubing bands I added would add a little extra security. I have not had an issue with the clunk working properly. What size tank are you running?

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Methinks a fuel line issue would be stressed far more when climbing? As well, I think most would be AMAZED at how long an engine will run on the fuel contained within the carb and 3-4" of fuel line! Just sayin....