Carosel43

She looks really nicerev and sounds smooth and strong. My engine would burst into tears at a 22x8 prop, unless its a Gsonic but I don't like them much. I may try one just for a laugh as I have a spare.

As an aside, what video editing software as you using? I am limited to windows movie maker at the moment and its a fight to get it to do what I want

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Carosel,

its actually a 22x10 I was completely suprised by the performance. I must say, I think I will buy some more of those graupner sonic props while they are still available.

As for the video, I use Pinnacle Studio 12. Quite cheap to buy (since the 14 is out already).
Easy to use for simple stuff but no wonders "out of the box".

Rev

BJ64

Crap that was a lucky save !! [X(][X(][X(]

That was sooooo close to digging a divot with the prop or catching the starboard tip and cartwheeing into 'Die Wiesen'....

Ich Wette dor ista da Orsch gangen... LoL

Looked and sounded great, Rev

BJ

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Oba sowas vo da Orsch gonga

BJ64

Mate... that even made me pucker just watching it [X(]

Too funny...

BJ

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

nice plane / engine combo Rev. !:-)

tim750r

Really nice Reverend, and what a great way to bring the thread back on track

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I'm subscribed to you on YT so I was the #3 viewer yesterday and I immediately added it to the FS400 Playlist on YT.

As everyone has said, brilliant aircraft and flying!

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks guys, you are making a grown man blush

Glad you like it.

I am very very happy with the Radial now. Had two more flights on it and not a single problem.

But you never cease to learn so here is what I have gathered:

1. I was always a big fan of the APC 20x8 on the engine and reving it up to 7.300 RPM. My friend Mike convinced me to try the Graupner Sonic 22x10 (the stiffer Pro version) which I then did. The Sonic props have a suprisingly good efficiency and turning @ 6.300 rpm I am getting almost the same HP (3,9) as I am getting with the APC (4,2).

2. The engine runs best with 10% Nitro. Below it looses a lot of RPMs, above it starts making awfull noises and gets hot.

3. With changing the cam followers to the MK II Version, the clearance has not had to be changed once in 2 hours runtime. (Was not the case before)

Rev

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks Tom! It actually seems, that next to a LOT of footage on the Black Horse Version (with the very wrong and useless undercarriage), that this is the ONLY Video of the ECOMRC Wedell Williams on youtube. Thanks for putting it on the playlist and the nice comment.

Rev

Carosel43

Rev, these sonic props you are using, you make it sound like they are a stiffer version of the G-Sonic? I ask because the G-Sonic series are a grey colour and have very low limiting RPM. people often use them at much faster speeds but whenan engineswings it over 2000rpm faster than the recommended max I get a little worried. I also find them horrendously noisy. I used a 22x8 on my laser 300v and it was ear splitting when in the air.

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

the g-sonic pro series are black and a lot stiffer than the normal ones. Noise, as you can hear in the vid is a lot better than wirh those grey ones... must check the rpm limits.. never really cared about them :-S

rev

Carosel43

The props come with a little leaflet thing that has some formula in it. If you do as they tell you the max allowed RPM is about 5200 for a 22'' prop (if my memory is correct). I am not sure if the pro series have a different recommendation.

In any event, my engine still has the menz 20x8 and today I had 3 successful flights with no real dramas. I also have my post flight oiling with the engine running down to a fine art and it seems to work well (as far as I can tell anyway)all in all, happy days over here at the moment

BJ64

Ran another small tankfull through my 400 today.

Primed her up, attached the battery and flicked her over on the Align starter - fired first pop.

Gotta love that

BJ

BJ64

...and on the exhaust note (pun intended ) ...

I'm trying to score some thin walled (20 gauge) 1" copper tubing. Reece don't stock it any more, but the AirCond boys apparently still use it - so I'll see if I can get my hands on some.

Plan B is to maybe work out how to make some sort of half-ring 'mold' - maybe rout a male and female half out of hardwood - and then press some thin 'artist' copper sheet to create a half transverse section, leaving a flange. Then silver-solder those two suckers together to make a beefy - yet light - pong-box (the Pommies will know what I'm talking about LoL).

Or maybe even 'metal spin' up the two halves somehow. Dunno yet...

Then sweat some connector pipes onto the 400 exhaust headers... and I might be onto something.

To get that deep, rich Moki sound would be the ultimate AFIK...

BJ

jaav

Flew My Gilmore today....had a flame out wasn't a good landing.. Miss the lumpy sound.

BJ64

Make it "lumpy" again

BJ

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I am really looking forward to your experiments with the exhaust ring and I wish you great success!

kgo068

This is what I've been doing on the rainy days down here. Made a baffle for my ESM Corsair out of fibreglass sheet. I'm going to attach it inside the cowl ,not on the motor . I'll not be able to get the cowl on otherwise.

Carosel43

Now that boys and girls is how a baffle plate is supposed to be!

AeroFinn

Looks very good kgo068!

How thick is the material? Will the baffle plate touch the cylinder fins as the air passes by the baffle plate and pushes it towards the engine at the same time? Not that it's a big issue but still: I've been experimenting with 1mm polycarbonate and noticed that it flexes quite much and thus my baffle plate on my GP Yak 54 / Laser 240v touches the engine occationally at full throtle. for this reason I would prefer having made my baffling arrangement from a stiffer material than polycarbonate, such as carbon fiber.

So I'm thinking that the optimum is to use such material that is stiff but "soft enough" so it won't ruin the finish of the engine surface, in case the baffle plate occationally touches the engine due to vibration, etc.

BJ64

Why do you need to run a 'baffle plate' ...?

BJ

Carosel43

Because air is lazy if you don't use a baffle plate the air will take the easy way out and go right around the engine and not actually cool it. By using a baffle plate you force the air through the cooling fins which is where you want it. Also as there is a ratio of air in to air out (some say twice the outlet to inlet, some say 3 times...it varies) you are limited by the area you have to get the air out of the cowling and so you must reduce the air coming in with the baffle plate. If you check out an air cooled engine in a full size aircraft you will see the same.

The upshot of all this is that closely cowled and well baffled engine will actually cool better than one in free air.

kgo068

I made the plate out of 2 layers of 3/4 oz fibreglass mat.This gives me 2mm of sheet which I use for many applications. It does flex a little ,but there will support from behind with ply glued to the cowl. Also ,if you look closely at the photos, the inner part of the baffle is caught between the lower barrell screws. Theres about 4-5mm airgap,around the fins. Thanks guys in pointing this out to me. I have read some more about air in & out ratios in cowled motors. I hope this will be far better than just having hot air presurize and swirl around inside the cowl not going anywhere ! - Kym

kgo068

Yeah ,well said Caro.   I also think too about the airstream going passed the plane in flight. Air will be sucked through the front smaller gaps because of the airflow pulling from the rear of the cowl.  a vacuum effect?