Pz III Ausf M Build
05-28-2013, 12:45 AM
#26
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
One of my field mods was to move the jack block. Incidentally, that also meant making a new one that looks like wood. How, you ask? Well, by using actual wood and staining it with the same stain pen used for the antenna bracket. I took 8 pieces of 4x4-mm wood cut to about 16-mm in length. Then, I glued 4 of them together side-by-side to create a 16x16-mm piece of laminated wood. Then, repeat to create two of them. Finally, glue them both together and you have a two-layered, laminated wooden jack block. Then, I gave them about 4 coats of stain. After that, a thin band was made from 1-mm brass strip. Be careful to measure twice or you may have to cut more than once. Rivets were too hard to figure out and I figured they would only be missed by the most detailed rivet counters. I even have some .5-mm rivets. But, I can’t cut off the heads and handle them well enough to glue the rivet heads to the band. Bottom line: I gave up on the rivet look and glued the bands in place...my eyes were hurting.
Next was the field mod. I decided that I wanted the S-shaped tow hooks to be visible and I didn’t want to deal with trying to figure out a leather strap and brackets to hold the block on top of the hooks. So, I figured a functional field mod would be to move the block over by the jack handle and put it into a bracket mounted to the side hull. It was easy enough to do with a piece of 2-mm brass strip. And, it even fits just under the turret...no interference with the turret’s rotation.
First time I handled the tank, I realized that this field mod needed some modifications help to ensure the block wasn’t lost. So, I carved out a small portion of the wood in the back and glued in a piece of a tin can lid (I cut a piece from a Campbell’s soup can). Then, I installed a 2x2-mm cylinder magnet into the hull behind the block. Now, it won’t fall out at all.
05-28-2013, 12:48 AM
#27
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
Another mod that was begging to be done...mostly just to see if I could do it: open the transmission vents. Took some careful drilling and filing with needle files, but I worked. If nothing else, it looks cool and offers a little more air movement inside the tank.
05-28-2013, 01:02 AM
#28
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
The last mod to the upper hull was to make some tow cable brackets from brass strip and some butterfly screws from Schumo Kits (http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/k...1-16::492.html). I got the metal tow cables with the ends already mounted on them from RCTank.de (http://www.rctank.de/product_info.ph...roducts_id=493). When I set out to do this, I used the Armortek kits and their layouts as reference points (http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/vi...php?f=4&t=2627). This was the best reference I could find and pictures and blueprints online seemed to be scarce. Even the various reference manuals I had looked at didn’t really address how this was done. To decide which layout to follow, I had to determine was most appropriate one based upon the Ausf and the cable length (I used the size of armored vent covers to distinguish between earlier and later Ausfs in the Armortek thread.) So, I used one cable to see if I could match the molded layout that HL used; and it worked. So, it seemed that I have two “long cables” on a later Ausf (PZIIIT1 series in the Armortek thread). Initially, I wanted to mirror the PZIIIT1A look (look at the picture captions). But, my attempts to bend straight, brass C-channel were an abysmal failure. Tube benders helped the most, but I still couldn’t get it to work. So, I went for the PZIIIT1B look.
It’s setup would be much simpler to mimic. I started with the cable guides. They were basically just bent C-channels that were wide enough to accommodate two cables lying side-by-side with the sides curved in enough to help secure them. That meant that the sides had to be slightly taller than the cable’s thickness. I also wanted just a touch more “clamping” (ie, longer side) on the outboard side of the guide. The idea is that the natural tension of the cable will push outward against that side of the bracket more than it will pull inward against the inside of the bracket. You can see in the pictures that I made them first and then installed them. I marked each outer edge with a Sharpie to make it easier to identify later when I installed them.
Next I made the clamps that hold the cable ends in place. You’ll notice that two have slightly longer flat extensions because they hold both the cable end and the cable passing through the clamp. Two only hold the cable end and just need extensions long enough for the bolt/wingnut assembly to pass through it. The Armortek version is a hinged affair (and realistically so). However, it is also a 1/6 product...more than twice the size of these clamps. While I suppose it is possible to do that (and I know there are folks out there that could), I lack the skill, patience and desire (reference first two deficiencies 
). So, I went simpler. I wrapped the brass strip around the cable end and shaped it with a fair amount of tweaking to create a clamp. The cable end just “snaps” into the clamp and then is secured with the wing nut. The holes in the clamps were drilled in a two-step process: first with 0.85-mm drill bit and second with a 0.95-mm bit.
). So, I went simpler. I wrapped the brass strip around the cable end and shaped it with a fair amount of tweaking to create a clamp. The cable end just “snaps” into the clamp and then is secured with the wing nut. The holes in the clamps were drilled in a two-step process: first with 0.85-mm drill bit and second with a 0.95-mm bit.Finally, I installed everything by gluing the bits with CA glue to the rear deck. First though, I recommend marking each part by creating a penciled outline once you have each part where you want it. This makes it easier to put the CA in place and then the bit quickly enough to avoid fiddling with its placement while the glue sets and hardens. I installed the cable guides first. Then, I installed one cable’s vertical (center) clamp, wrapped the cable through the guides and installed its last clamp above the engine cover. Rinse and repeat for the second cable. Note: I referenced the Armortek pictures continuously throughout the marking phase. This also meant that I didn’t have to try to reference pictures and place a part while the CA glue was setting. Once the clamps were installed and the glue hardened, I drilled holes in the plastic for the wing nuts. I wanted the holes to be small enough to all the wing nuts (which are threaded) to cut a thread in the plastic. The idea is that the cables can be removed, especially for painting. Thread lock can be used later for securing everything. I experimented with two drill bits - .85-mm and .90-mm. The .90-mm bit is too large and as a result the wing nut can be pushed or pulled through the hole (not easily, but it’s not as secure as actually screwing it). The .85-mm bit was the right size, but because not to wobble much while drilling the hole. I did and now have two spots where I can push or pull the wing nut through the hole. The other two screw into place and are very secure. Overall, I’m happy with the results.
Pictures show:
re"> - Tow cable layout, guide dimensions and brass strip shopping using Special Shapes part numbers.
re"> - Tow cable guides and clamps as well as the final product.
05-28-2013, 01:04 AM
#29
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
A mod that I considered doing to the upper hull involved opening the various hatches. First, I thought it would cool to do. And, I figured it could be functional if I found a way to mount the switches and volume control under one of them. My first challenge was how to deal with the hinges. For the longest time, you either had to find a way to cut them out carefully after drilling a hole through them to support a hinge pin. Or, you had to shave them off and fabricate new ones. I was going to try the former option. I ran into two problems - first, I don’t have drill bits narrow and long enough to put into a pin vise and get a good straight hole. Secondly, the back ones are part of the turret rotation motor mounts or the upper-to-lower hull mounts. And, I wasn’t willing to eliminate either of those. The hull mounts are used for the Asiatam metal hull fasteners anyways. So, I skipped that mod. However, the good news for those that want to try it is that Heng Long has made metal hatches with hinges (http://www.matomart.com/product.php?c=1000070 or http://www.rctank.de/product_info.php?products_id=1767). Or, you can get the hinges from Modellbaugasse (http://www.modellbaugasse.de/shop/ar...%26aid%3D57%26) and reuse the plastic hatches.
05-28-2013, 01:07 AM
#30
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
Another mod the upper hull begged for...the lifting hooks. HL placed one in its place along the centerline between the RTO and the driver. So, I went on a hunt and found a couple of options at Rctank.de. They have metal and plastic lifting hooks. So, I got a set of each. Turns out the metal hooks are larger than the plastic hooks. So, the metal ones are best for the hull hooks and they look good.
05-29-2013, 03:18 AM
#32
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
Thanks...hmm, interesting point. Yes...right now, I do and have tried to make the mods survivable. Can't tell you how many times I get asked by kids watching it go "does it shoot?" Love to tell them "yes, it does" and then fire off a BB. Getting a couple of others for battles would be fun. But, I may have to go with basic HL guns to keep the BB's punch a bit tame.
05-29-2013, 03:24 AM
#33
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
Of course, you can’t tweak the upper hull without paying some attention to the lower hull. But, the adjustments on the lower hull aren’t cosmetic; they’re entirely functional.
First thing that I noticed with the metal hull is that the screw heads stick out a little bit. I have two options - either grind down the holes a little for a counter-sunk screw or find some M3 screws with very flat heads. I chose the latter after stumbling on them in a hardware store in town. I suppose a Dremel with a tapered grinding stone would work for the first option, but this was easier and it works for the retention bracket, too (screw heads are hidden behind the spare tracks). Unfortunately, I could only find the ones for the machine screws and not the courser self-tapping screws. But, it should reduce some of the belly scraping that it will probably do.
First thing that I noticed with the metal hull is that the screw heads stick out a little bit. I have two options - either grind down the holes a little for a counter-sunk screw or find some M3 screws with very flat heads. I chose the latter after stumbling on them in a hardware store in town. I suppose a Dremel with a tapered grinding stone would work for the first option, but this was easier and it works for the retention bracket, too (screw heads are hidden behind the spare tracks). Unfortunately, I could only find the ones for the machine screws and not the courser self-tapping screws. But, it should reduce some of the belly scraping that it will probably do.
05-29-2013, 03:25 AM
#34
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
Finally, I got some of Tank Modellbau’s axle supports with bearings in them (http://www.tank-modellbau.de/). They are really nicely made, but they have a problem. They don’t work on the metal hull. You see, the mounting screws and the nuts don’t fit in the very narrow clearance between the gearbox and the hull. Asiatam addressed this with other parts by removing the metal hull creating a recess where a nut can fit flush against plastic side and be flush with the metal hull. So, next idea...how about some of Asiatam’s 8-mm bearings (http://www.asiatam.com/kugellager-8x22x7mm-p-906.html). They’re nice, but I’d have to glue them to the outside of the plastic. So, my final idea...I saw this on the German forums. Use the bearings I got from Asiatam (others have used inline skate bearings) and secure them inside of the transmission covers using milliput. It’s rock solid and adds support to the bearings while also preventing water from getting in through the drive shafts.
Note: one issue with all of the bearings - one of the drive axles was a hair larger than spec. Every bearing fit perfectly on one of the drive axles - slide on, slide off. The other one...not so much. So, I used some sand paper to bring it to specs. Now, it fits perfectly on all of the bearings, too. Just something to keep in mind about these gearboxes.
Note: one issue with all of the bearings - one of the drive axles was a hair larger than spec. Every bearing fit perfectly on one of the drive axles - slide on, slide off. The other one...not so much. So, I used some sand paper to bring it to specs. Now, it fits perfectly on all of the bearings, too. Just something to keep in mind about these gearboxes.
05-29-2013, 03:30 AM
#35
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
One other thing I did was reinforce the lower pivot point for the idler adjuster. The bottom of the arm attaches to the hull and sits over a plastic flange. I got a metal replacement that bolts securely to the hull from www.modellbaugasse.de and installed those. It’s pretty easy. Can’t see it, but it seems sturdier.
The idlers also have to be adjusted. Using the Impact tracks, you need to add an extra link beyond the number of links in HL’s plastic tracks. Then it needs to be tightened because the extra link introduces too much slack. So, you have to tighten the tracks enough to pull the idler almost completely to the rear. There is a fair amount of movement in the Asiatam idler. The pictures show some of that range. One of the key things that has to be done is pull the tracks back enough so that they clear the bolt head. To do, that it needs to be pulled almost completely to the rear.
The idlers also have to be adjusted. Using the Impact tracks, you need to add an extra link beyond the number of links in HL’s plastic tracks. Then it needs to be tightened because the extra link introduces too much slack. So, you have to tighten the tracks enough to pull the idler almost completely to the rear. There is a fair amount of movement in the Asiatam idler. The pictures show some of that range. One of the key things that has to be done is pull the tracks back enough so that they clear the bolt head. To do, that it needs to be pulled almost completely to the rear.
05-29-2013, 03:41 AM
#36
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
The final step was to ensure the guts were working correctly. This means the electronics and moving the switches to a more convenient location. After spending a few days fiddling with what turned out to be a bad RX-18 board, I decided to give the Taigen 2.4 GHz system a try. I looked at several other systems. The Clark system looks really nice, but the controls are complicated and you lose the ability to do more than one thing at a time with the turret. I also looked at the SLU, but it was twice the cost of Taigen’s before buying the controller. I like my BBs; so, the Taigen would meet my needs. And, I’ve learned that from 10 feet away you can’t hear the engine sounds anyways. So, while it would be nice to have an accurate sound programming, it’s not essential. I bought an upgrade set from Immortal Hobbies and it arrived within about 10 days. One nice surprise was that, since the receiver board is integrated, the Taigen system also saves space...and it has a plug for the tail light, which is something that was on the RX-14 and omitted on the RX-18. Overall, I like that setup.
The next piece was to move the switches to the upper hull so that the volume and on/off could be controlled without having to open the tank. This was a two-step process. First, I removed the clip edges from the rear vent covers so that they could be slid on and off. I installed a couple of 3-mm square magnets into opposite corners in each vent hole and small round magnets into the corners of the vent covers. The original retaining clips had to be shaved a little to fit around the magnets. On the other side, I used 2-mm styrene sheets to create platforms for the on/off switch and the volume control knob. I cut the appropriate notches into them to give a snug fit so that they don’t twist or shift when using the switch or knob. They’re held in place by two 3-mm cylindrical magnets embedded into the styrene. Essentially, they make break-away switch holders so that when the upper hull is taken off they can be pushed into the tank. This way the only cable that has to be removed from the upper hull when removing it is the 8-pin control cable.
The next piece was to move the switches to the upper hull so that the volume and on/off could be controlled without having to open the tank. This was a two-step process. First, I removed the clip edges from the rear vent covers so that they could be slid on and off. I installed a couple of 3-mm square magnets into opposite corners in each vent hole and small round magnets into the corners of the vent covers. The original retaining clips had to be shaved a little to fit around the magnets. On the other side, I used 2-mm styrene sheets to create platforms for the on/off switch and the volume control knob. I cut the appropriate notches into them to give a snug fit so that they don’t twist or shift when using the switch or knob. They’re held in place by two 3-mm cylindrical magnets embedded into the styrene. Essentially, they make break-away switch holders so that when the upper hull is taken off they can be pushed into the tank. This way the only cable that has to be removed from the upper hull when removing it is the 8-pin control cable.
05-29-2013, 03:56 AM
#37
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
Now that everything is put together and working, it is time to test drive it. So, I ran it for about 10 minutes inside with no issues. Then I did an outdoors trial run. A little through the grass...thick tall grass...no issues and up a small, but steep hill to an old tennis court behind the house. Most of the trials were done on the tennis court. I figured it would be easier on the metal tracks than concrete and the flat surface would be a good test of the tracks and their tension while also making it easy to find any parts that fall off.
Results: overall...ran great, even through the grass. The road wheels are clearly press fitted into place and need some sort of adhesive. Also, the spare track bracket on the front glacis tore off. It was held only by glue; so, I’ll re-engineer that. And, the tracks are a little loose...actually came outside the idler on one side, but didn’t come off.
Here some pics and the YouTube Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmLgpKkIpiU.
Results: overall...ran great, even through the grass. The road wheels are clearly press fitted into place and need some sort of adhesive. Also, the spare track bracket on the front glacis tore off. It was held only by glue; so, I’ll re-engineer that. And, the tracks are a little loose...actually came outside the idler on one side, but didn’t come off.
Here some pics and the YouTube Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmLgpKkIpiU.
05-29-2013, 04:04 AM
#38
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
The first test run revealed the need to rebuild the spare track bracket for the front glacis. This time I built it to lock into the transmission covers as well as being glued to the hull. It took a few hours, but was fairly easy to do. First, I carved out a notch in the milliput that holds the bearing in place in each transmission cover. Then, I made the bracket from brass strip from Special Shapes (F-1-6) . This time I used the thicker strip (same width as the original) for rigidity. Four 90-degree bends and the bracket was done. The original provided a template for placing some of the bends. The added thickness was a little too much to fit under the transmission covers without pushing them away from the hull side. So, I filed down the portion that would run under the cover and along the hull. As a result that portion is a little thinner than the rest of the strip. There won’t be any loss in the strength, though.
I like this setup better than the first one that I made.
I like this setup better than the first one that I made.
05-29-2013, 04:27 AM
#39
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
A brilliant build, I wish I could have had your build as a reference when I was building mine, A tip for anyone fitting axle support bearings, Put the hull with gearboxes fitted into the freezer overnight( if she does not know thats all to the best) Place the axle support bearings in the morning on a hot plate, please, not so hot that you get burned! Take the hull out of the freezer in the morning and smear lithium grease along the axle shafts, place the bearing against the end of the axle and with a small hammer lightly drive the bearing along the axle, it will slide easily after initial resistance.Job done shaun
06-01-2013, 02:20 AM
#41
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
So, I ran a second trial run and everything seems to be working well. I even took some video of the run. Then, I took it for a dusk drive on the beach. Kids there loved it. But, the tank didn’t love the sand so much. Don’t think I’ll do that very much. The left track kept coming off. Looking at the video from the second trial run, it appears that the left track is looser. So, I tightened it a bit more. Should be all set now.
Took some work to clean out the sand. I think we’ll stick to dirt and grass for now.
Videos:
2nd Trial Run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVF8eaPHqcg
Memorial Day Beach Run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw3q26LfInk
1st Look: Taigen 2.4 GHz Upgrade Kit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5dzCJiGw_o
Took some work to clean out the sand. I think we’ll stick to dirt and grass for now.
Videos:
2nd Trial Run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVF8eaPHqcg
Memorial Day Beach Run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw3q26LfInk
1st Look: Taigen 2.4 GHz Upgrade Kit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5dzCJiGw_o
06-22-2013, 10:25 PM
#42
Thread Starter
RE: Pz III Ausf M Build
So, I saw this on the RCTankWarfare forum in ska2d2's build. It’s a small detail that I had to copy and only took a little while to do. I put a small strip of styrene on top of the front tow extensions and then enlarged the hole to about 4 mm using a #20 drill bit.
Now, I’m playing with ways to keep the road wheels together. Wonder if it’s a matter of proper alignment...
Now, I’m playing with ways to keep the road wheels together. Wonder if it’s a matter of proper alignment...
10-07-2013, 04:38 AM
#44
Thread Starter
Thanks. I've been away for a bit. But, I've returned to tweak some things and install the fixed Taigen 2.4 GHz system. The electronics work great now.
A little more work and now I’m ready to paint. I need to find some good decals and painting guides. More on that later.
I found from my test runs that I have two problems with the road wheels. First, the outer wheels keep popping off. Common suggestion on this forum is to use thread lock or Elmer’s glue to glue the two halves together. I think I’ll try the thread lock after I get it painted, or at least primed. The other problem is that a small grain of sand or dirt keeps getting between the bushing in the wheel and the axle. So, I ordered some 3x6x2.5mm sealed ball bearings from Yeah Racing on eBay. I got enough to put two bearings into each inner wheel. Of course, nothing fits perfectly on the first go-round. The bushings had to be knocked out of the wheel and then the hole enlarged a little bit. I did that by hand-turning a sequence of drill bits through it (#2 -> #1 -> 15/64" drill bits). Then they could be gently hammered into place. The axle is 3.5-mm in diameter. So, I had to shave off .5-mm from the axle using a hand drill and a file. Overall, it seems to have worked and the wheels roll more freely and shouldn’t have any more problems with locking if a grain of dirt or sand gets between the bearing and the axle.
Aligning the road wheels should help, too.
For painting...I think I’m going to do a PzIII M from Michael Wittman’s light platoon at Kharkov. These were from the Tiger company assigned to SS-Panzer Regiment 1 of the LSSAH Panzer Grenadier Division. There doesn’t seem to be any definitive information identifying all, some or none as Ausf Ms. Several references place both or either variant in the platoon and I haven’t found any pictures of any of them. They were a little different in that they were numbered 4L1 through 4L5. The advantage of not finding any photos is that I can apply some creative license and assume that some of the “field mods” that I’ve done might have been done by them as well.
Now to find some painting guides...having some troubles there.
A little more work and now I’m ready to paint. I need to find some good decals and painting guides. More on that later.
I found from my test runs that I have two problems with the road wheels. First, the outer wheels keep popping off. Common suggestion on this forum is to use thread lock or Elmer’s glue to glue the two halves together. I think I’ll try the thread lock after I get it painted, or at least primed. The other problem is that a small grain of sand or dirt keeps getting between the bushing in the wheel and the axle. So, I ordered some 3x6x2.5mm sealed ball bearings from Yeah Racing on eBay. I got enough to put two bearings into each inner wheel. Of course, nothing fits perfectly on the first go-round. The bushings had to be knocked out of the wheel and then the hole enlarged a little bit. I did that by hand-turning a sequence of drill bits through it (#2 -> #1 -> 15/64" drill bits). Then they could be gently hammered into place. The axle is 3.5-mm in diameter. So, I had to shave off .5-mm from the axle using a hand drill and a file. Overall, it seems to have worked and the wheels roll more freely and shouldn’t have any more problems with locking if a grain of dirt or sand gets between the bearing and the axle.
Aligning the road wheels should help, too.
For painting...I think I’m going to do a PzIII M from Michael Wittman’s light platoon at Kharkov. These were from the Tiger company assigned to SS-Panzer Regiment 1 of the LSSAH Panzer Grenadier Division. There doesn’t seem to be any definitive information identifying all, some or none as Ausf Ms. Several references place both or either variant in the platoon and I haven’t found any pictures of any of them. They were a little different in that they were numbered 4L1 through 4L5. The advantage of not finding any photos is that I can apply some creative license and assume that some of the “field mods” that I’ve done might have been done by them as well.
Now to find some painting guides...having some troubles there.
10-07-2013, 05:34 AM
#45
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That's a really nice mod. I have the same lower hull and really the only thing keeping it from being perfect was the lack of bearings in the road wheels. The KV-1 hull takes full advantage of such a thing and is really an awesome runner.
Your build looks very crisp and full of detail, the panzer III is probably the most fun tank to drive and work on and you're doing awesome. What general colours were PnzIIIs from that platoon?
Your build looks very crisp and full of detail, the panzer III is probably the most fun tank to drive and work on and you're doing awesome. What general colours were PnzIIIs from that platoon?
10-07-2013, 12:33 PM
#46
Thread Starter
Thanks, Strato. The entire company had its tanks painted in the standard panzergrau and used white, double-outlined, open-ended lettering. The tanks were whitewashed before being put on the rail cars and shipped to the Eastern Front. But, they didn't whitewash over the division's markings or the turret numbers, instead leaving a grey box where those were. I've attached an artist's rendition of the platoon commander's vehicle and a picture of another PzIII in the Company for an idea of the numbering style.
10-08-2013, 11:34 AM
#47
I have to agree with Yellowshaker on this being a great build. My PzIII is my only Airsoft tank left and is my basher but it is such a great little tank the way it is is the reason i haven't done anything major to it. If a good light tank in our scale was to come out to really give it a go i would definitely upgrade her for some serious battling.
11-11-2013, 04:53 AM
#48
Thread Starter
Primed in the AM (requires slightly more than one can of Tamiya fine primer...and a trip to the hobby store) and general painting in the evening (two cans of Tamiya TS4). Tomorrow in the sunlight I'll check for coverage, but right now, I think I have it. Some flaws that I'll chalk up to inexperience. Hopefully, I can put it together tomorrow and get it ready for markings and the extinguisher decal. I got called into work for possible response to Typhoon Haiyan's damage to the PI. May put things on hold.
Question: I have an Archer decal (dry transfer, I think) for the extinguisher. Do I need to gloss-coat the extinguisher before I apply it? Gloss coat just the extinguisher or the whole tank?
Got a friend that has been doing 1:35 stuff for years that will help me with the washes and weathering. Weathering will be light. I'm doing this as the pre-deployment training the platoon did before heading east to Kharkov. They got the tanks straight from the factory; so, there won't be much weathering to do. Too bad the driver ran the tank into a gate post on the way out and damaged the front fender.
Think I'll go for tank 4L4.
Question: I have an Archer decal (dry transfer, I think) for the extinguisher. Do I need to gloss-coat the extinguisher before I apply it? Gloss coat just the extinguisher or the whole tank?
Got a friend that has been doing 1:35 stuff for years that will help me with the washes and weathering. Weathering will be light. I'm doing this as the pre-deployment training the platoon did before heading east to Kharkov. They got the tanks straight from the factory; so, there won't be much weathering to do. Too bad the driver ran the tank into a gate post on the way out and damaged the front fender.
Think I'll go for tank 4L4.
05-11-2014, 05:38 AM
#49
Thread Starter
Over the Christmas holiday, I was able to do some the of the detailing. I used some stencils that I got from rctank.de. These are for the Tiger Is from Kharkov (1st SS PzGrd Div). So, I had the crest and the balkencruz that I needed. I figured I could construct a 4L4 stencil by frankensteining the stencils from rctank.de. That didn’t work. The result was awful. So, I asked Airbrushler for some help. He made some awesome stencils and I finally had an opportunity to use them. He actually made them in several number combinations (4L2, 4L4 and 4L5) and in two sizes since I wasn’t sure exactly what size was best. I went with the smaller size. The larger size would have fit, but I think it would been so large that it would have looked like I was cramming them to fit. I like the proportional fit of the smaller set.
CINCHOUSE helped me pick the number. We decided we liked the 4L5 best. So, that’s what I did. Gotta say that I really like the way that they turned out. I can easily recommend Airbrushler to anyone that needs any help. His work was awesome.
For fun, I also added a little rust to other metal parts. That was some serious learning. I tried using some filings from an iron (rusting) patio table. But, they were pretty chunky and wouldn’t attach to the laquer paint on the exhaust. Then, I lightly painted it with the enamel paint and then repainted with the filings using enamel solvent. That worked for texture, but not much color. Next step: let two nails sit in water for a week and rust. That makes for some beautiful, orange rust in very fine particulate. Painting that with water soaks slowly and gives a little color. For more color, let the rust dry and paint using solvent. It also gets into the crevices very nicely. (Note: this wasn’t my idea. I borrowed it from another posting on this forum. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...l#post11648070)
I tried to blacken my tracks with a 2-hour soak in vinegar. That worked a little, but I’m not keen on the results. I think next time I’ll try Blacken-It or some gun bluing.
Finishing touch was to christen the tank. Can’t find any pictures of the Leibstandarte doing this, but I did mention creative licenses earlier.
Friend of mine has offered to teach me to use his airbrush to blacken the end of the muzzle and the exhaust. So, that, a wash and some flat, clear coat to lock to protect the paint and it should be done.
CINCHOUSE helped me pick the number. We decided we liked the 4L5 best. So, that’s what I did. Gotta say that I really like the way that they turned out. I can easily recommend Airbrushler to anyone that needs any help. His work was awesome.
For fun, I also added a little rust to other metal parts. That was some serious learning. I tried using some filings from an iron (rusting) patio table. But, they were pretty chunky and wouldn’t attach to the laquer paint on the exhaust. Then, I lightly painted it with the enamel paint and then repainted with the filings using enamel solvent. That worked for texture, but not much color. Next step: let two nails sit in water for a week and rust. That makes for some beautiful, orange rust in very fine particulate. Painting that with water soaks slowly and gives a little color. For more color, let the rust dry and paint using solvent. It also gets into the crevices very nicely. (Note: this wasn’t my idea. I borrowed it from another posting on this forum. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...l#post11648070)
I tried to blacken my tracks with a 2-hour soak in vinegar. That worked a little, but I’m not keen on the results. I think next time I’ll try Blacken-It or some gun bluing.
Finishing touch was to christen the tank. Can’t find any pictures of the Leibstandarte doing this, but I did mention creative licenses earlier.
Friend of mine has offered to teach me to use his airbrush to blacken the end of the muzzle and the exhaust. So, that, a wash and some flat, clear coat to lock to protect the paint and it should be done.
05-11-2014, 09:57 AM
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Philpat,
On my PZ IV, I soaked the tracks in vinegar for an hour. Changed to fresh vinegar and soaked for another hour. Cleaned them off ( had to use a small suede wire brush due to some scaling ). I then did a light coat of gun blueing. Came out great
On my PZ IV, I soaked the tracks in vinegar for an hour. Changed to fresh vinegar and soaked for another hour. Cleaned them off ( had to use a small suede wire brush due to some scaling ). I then did a light coat of gun blueing. Came out great