AmericanSpectre505

Does anyone have the correct program settings for the Spin 99 when using a Hacker Q80 x 14XS they would share. I seem to be experiencing inconsistent settings at the idle/brake speed and I seem to be consuming much more Mah during a flight. I have the controller set to Auto currently, because the settings I was previously running in the fixed manual configuration decided to do strange things like not Arm the ESC or it would try to start and stop?

I flew it yesterday and I have to keep chasing the trim, so the delay (lag time) on the brake doesn't get wider during a flight.


Any advice would be appreciated.

Bill

DagTheElder

Bill, here is what I use, the bar between lines indicates an arrow. You start at top of the program in the box (assume you have a Jeti box)


Controller type
Spin 99
|
Main setting
|
Temp protection 100 C
|
Brake Manual setting
|
Dead time 0.1s
|
Initial breake 20%
|
End brake 30% (Q80 needs more increase to suit)
|
Brake speed 0.7s
|
Operation mode aircraft
|
Timing (C50 cero deg) Q80 25 deg
|
Frequency 8khz
|
Acceleration 0-100% 1.0s
|
Accumulator type
|
Number of cells Lixx 10
|
Lixx cut off pr cell 3.0
|
Off Voltage set 29.94
|
Cut off : slow down
|
Initial point : fix
|
Fix initial point :1.10ms
|
End point : 1.92ms
|
Auto inc. Endpoint ON from 1.92ms
|
Throttle curve LINEAR ( make curve in Tx)
|
Rotation left
|
Timing monitor : OFF
|
Setting thr R/C: OFF

Best regards

f3a05

A little more re the fixed end points:
Initial point:
Check how low your particular Jeti box can go- Mine is 1.00 msecs. Set your Tx lowest throttle point (on the travel adjust or whatever it's called on your brand) to be 1.00msecs,using the pulse-width measuring on the jeti box.(Leave the trim alone, I leave mine at the mid-point).
High point:
Set your high throttle travel adjust at 100%, and again measure the pulse width, and copy this onto the jeti box setting (it's usually around 1. 9 msecs) If you wish, you can widen the total travel by increasing the the high travel adjust to more than 100%, provided the jeti box can replicate the length of the pulse).
To arm:
Turn on Tx with low throttle set as above.
Turn on Rx,and then the motor connection.
The ESC will not arm just yet.
Now return to the low throttle travel adjust, and lower it one (finest) step at a time, until you hear the single arming beep.
Don't forget to rebind at these settings.
Now, provided you have the "set thru RC" turned OFF, you can only re-arm at these settings, which will remain consistent. In fact, the ESC won't arm at any other, higher, throttle setting at switch on.

AmericanSpectre505

Hey Thanks' a bunch!

I noticed some differences at a glance.

BILL

AmericanSpectre505

f3a05,

I use a Futaba 14 MZ

Set my throttle end point to the lowest setting which is 30, but I should probably set it at 40, if I have to lower it again with the end poits to get it to arm or should I set it 30 and move it up till it beeps?

I am guessing, I can use my WATTS up meter to measure the pulse with also or should I use the Spin box exclussively?

Thank You for the information. I will go try it in a few minutes...much appreciated.

Bill
F3A USA

grantb

Don't fiddle with the radio. Plug the Jeti box into the RX and measure the pulse width at idle and full throttle. Write them down.

Now plug the Jeti Box into the Spin 99 and program the two end points to match the numbers that you got from the RX.

Done.

On the 14MZ I used the throttle cut function to arm the ESC (takes the pulse width below minimum) and the trim tab to set idle. Never out by more than 1 or 2 clicks depending on temperature. Don't forget to reverse the throttle channel on Futaba.

AmericanSpectre505

Just plug the Jeti box into the RX, any open channel?

Thanks

Bill

f3a05

"I am guessing, I can use my WATTS up meter to measure the pulse with also or should I use the Spin box exclussively?"
I'd use the jeti boxthen you can be sure that the nominal msecs will match, if you see what I mean!It's easy to measure the Tx pulse widths with the jeti box-just power up the Rx and Tx, and connect the throttle channel on the Rx to the blue socket on the jetibox, look for "impulse detection", and read off the msecs at low and high throttle.
I've just checked my settings, and with the low setting on the ESC set by the jetibox at 1.0msecs, the actual pulse width from the TX is 0.976 msecs, to arm the ESC.

grantb

As per f3a05. Plug into the throttle channel. You can measure the pulse width on any channel but it ain't gonna help setting up the throttle

Also, remember to switch the RX from HS mode for the pulse width check. The jeti Box does not recognise HS mode.

AmericanSpectre505

Yeah, to be consistent with the measurement it makes sence.

Bill

cchariandy

Any change in the power consumption?

I just tried a new Spin 99 this weekend. Compared to the Comp 90 the 99 seems to be consuming nearly 1000mAhrs more for the same sequence.

I would have to fly extremenly small sequnces to avoid destroying batteries.

My set up is almost the same as that reccomended except the Timing monitor and Setting thru RC were left on, the Dead time is 0.2ms and timinmg is 24deg.
I'm running an EVO 30-10.

Any idea what I need to change to ruduce the consumption?

Colin.

AmericanSpectre505

I noticed the same thing too. I have tried all sorts of settings and getting frustrated, even full auto mode, but the throttle power on the stick seems to move during flight. The power starts out correct, half throttle is half throttle and in a few passes it moves a quater of a stick higher? I can produce it on the ground too with a couple of full throttle burst
and the power flattens out or the power band moves?

The castle 80 HV produced way less power with my Q80-14XS, but it was consistent and efficient. Not to happy with any of it currently, YS is calling my name again.

Bill

f3a05

If it helps, I use about 3000 to 3400 mAH for P13, and about 200 to 300 more forF13, depending on the wind strength.
That's with a 4950 gram Episode/carbon 21x13w/
pletty evo 30/10/spin 99 pro.
No idea what the timing monitor on or off does, but I'd have the setting thru' RC OFF, to avoid any accidental re-programming at switch-on
My timing is set at 25 degrees, so no clues there.
The only other things I can think of are:
do you have anything other than a linear throttle curve on the ESC itself? Or perhaps an over-aggressive curve on the Tx?
Could the motor batteries be particularly cool at start-up, and perhaps over-heating in flight? that might explain a variable response to the throttle stick?

f3a05

Brenner's post no 1161 in the Contra thread, illustrates a throttle curve that looks pretty typical for what would give a linear feel to most electric setups , IMO.
I.E. a steep rise from zero to about one-third open, then a flattish middle area (with around 60 to 70% output at mid-stick), followed by a smooth gradual rise to full throttle.

cchariandy

4200maH for P and even more for F using TP G8 5000s, Falcon 21X14, 4750gm Xigris. I used linear for the Tx curve and have a nearly stratight line on the Tx. I will try 25 degrees for the timing and switch the timing monitor and setting thru RC off and see what I get.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

The learning curve can be challenging and frustrating, but hang in there - you will get it figured out and you will be very happy with your high-end power system when all is said and done.

Have you tried contacting Hacker? Their customer service support (I think the main guy's name is Brian?) is really great. They have a Hacker line of Spin motors, so obviously they have worked closely with Jeti and know these controllers quite well. I think a few minutes on the phone with them will really help.

https://www.aero-model.com/
Customer Service: 480-726-7519

can773

My Feedback: (1)

These are my settings, I can fly 9 minutes any use 3500-3600 mAh...going to try a 3900 lipo for P ;-)

I think having the esc set to fixed on high and low and how you have your throttle curve and end points setup have a lot to do with your consumption.

After flying schulze's for many years, I think the Jeti is just as efficient, and has a stronger brake.

Temp Protection - 100C
Brake - Manual
Dead time - 0s
Initial - 30%
End - 46%
Brake Speed - 0.5s
Operation - Normal
Timing - 24 degrees
Frequency - 8 khz
Acceleration - 0.5s
Accumulator Type - Li-Ion/Pol/Fe
# of cells - 4
Cut off - 2.8v
Off voltage set - 11.98
Cut off - Slow down
Initial Point - Fix
Fix initial point - 1.1ms
End Point - 1.9ms
Auto Inc End Point - Off
Throttle Curve - Linear
Rotation - Left
Start up power - Auto
Setting thr. RC - Off

AmericanSpectre505

Hey Chad,

That is almost identical to what my settings ended up, after testing yesterday. I am trying to figure out the end points high and low now (14MZ). The only difference I see, is the cells, volts and cutoff cell voltage at 2.8. I did turn the RC back on, but I will turn it back off. I was at 2880 Watts and now I'm at 2550, so something has changed, being my end points and the throttle curve.

I flew the P a few days ago 8 minutes including some extra stuff the one last minute. The battery was a 9 percent , normally, I'm at 33 percent on average at the end of a P. It was a 9 percent because I had to keep feeding the motor, more like full throttle which is usually half throttle to achieve the same. All three packs I'm flying are new with about 30 flights now.

Thanks Guys,..I'll keep working on it.

Bill

can773

My Feedback: (1)

Here are some pictures of my program in the 18 for the Axiome.

Also I have the cell count set to 4 so that I can never have a cutoff. Maybe there is a way to disable it, but I just set it to 4 cells and that works

AmericanSpectre505

Chad,

The end point adjustment 30-130? On my 14MZ I am the opposite and maybe the problem 100-78 (78 is the low end where the Esc armed at? I will change the battery voltage, I agree with that being, we fly on a timer anyway. My throttle curve is on expo 2 and looks about the same at 48. My throttle trim is at plus 18 and I zero the trim after each flight?

Also,..my Esc arms as soon as the plug is engaged? I just added the throttle cut feature. I realize it could be the quality of battery I am running (zippy compact 25-5000). I am trying to get my hands on some new G8-5400's but you seem to be getting by with far less or did I read that wrong?

PM if you don't want to post this, don't mean to put you on the spot.
Bill

AmericanSpectre505

Thank you for sharing, as I think it will help "many" that have questions like myself.

Again Thanks.

Bill

AmericanSpectre505

The brake,..I think I am bypassing it. I usually run a low idle on takeoff and I never feel the brake, so I am guessing I should not run an idle?

Bill

can773

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Bill,

60% is the full throttle ATV, I set it by running to full throttle on the ground and just audibly adjust until I can't hear any increase in rpm, then set about 5% higher.

For the low side, I set the trim after getting running about a beep above where it will shut off. The idle down lowers the idle to trigger the brake, which is also my timer switch. If you run with the idle set on the ground, and don't flip a switch or adjust the trim down in flight, then your brake is never active. If your brake is active you won't be spinning the prop on the ground!

With the trim at the "idle" position (all the way to the top in this setup), the ESC will not arm, even with the idle down active. I have to bring the trim back to the middle, then back to the top to get it to arm each flight.

Hope that makes sense.

I normally run G8 5000's for practice (8.5-9 minute flights), but will often fly 4400's in a contest (both P/F) (my Axiome is 4823g with 5000's, 4689 with 4400's). I am just experimenting with a 3900 to see if I can make it through P on a calm day, the higher altitude helps a little, I wouldn't be able to run that at sea level. The Ax is 4548g with the 3900

AmericanSpectre505

Hey Chad,

That makes senses and answered what already knew, but needed verification on again (I never really learned the EP stuff, playing catch up).

So, if I understand correctly. My trim curently, I have to bring up to the idle position, which is around 25% to engage the idle. I then bring it all the way down to 18% and it idles for a few seconds and stops. I am guessing this where the brake would engage? If I touch the throttle it comes back on and does the something or is this something different I am producing? I am assuming that the brake means the prop stops in the air or is it more diffrential/proportional to the percentage programmed (like using the brakes on a car)? I don't understand how the break works?

Bill

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Looking at the manual online (just want to help, take it for what it's worth), I would check the following:

1) make sure the break setting is 'off' using the controller. once you are confident there are no more issues you can reengage the brake.
2) i would bypass Initial Deflection, Full Throttle, Full Throttle Auto Shift, if at all possible.
3) set throttle curve to Linear and use the curve in your radio

4) after all that try doing the manual setup to reset your max throttle position (set stick to full throttle, plug in power batteries, engage Rx power, wait for 5 beeps, chop to 0 throttle).