AmericanSpectre505

Here is my Nuance via Archie stafford,..Thanks' Archie.

Thank's to F3A Unlimited for having all the things I needed to complete my plane, great support. To BJ Craft for a great plane, even though it's not new, it's new to me..

I tried to post pic's but the site times out and fails to load,...I added some light blue and yellow, later on I will remove the pink and add Orange, yellow and blue in place of the pink.

Here is the list:

Futaba 14 MZ
R5014-G3 RX (R6008 FASST issues)
Elevator: Futaba 9650 mini (2)
Ailerons: Futaba 9350 (2)
Rudder: Savox SC- 1232-SG (1)

Castle Pheonix 80 HV (F3A Unlimited)
Hacker Q-80-14XS (F3A Unlimited)
Q80 nose mount kit (F3A Unlimited)
APC 21x14 (PT 21x14 L) (F3A Unlimited)
True Turn Turbo cool "blue" 2.75 FAI (F3A Unlimited)
Tech Aero dual regulators w/ switch (F3A Unlimited)
F3A Unlimited 900mah Rx lipo (F3A Unlimited)
Seacraft servo arms (F3A Unlimited)
Seacraft ball links (F3A Unlimited)

Weight with Zippy compact 25C-5000 (Hobby King USA) ready to fly.

4883grams w/ a PT 21x14EL
4935grams w/ a APC 21x14


Since this plane has over or near 300 flights, I found some maintenance things to watch out for, nothing major.

The tabs on the stabs, two were de-laminating from the root rib (right side) where the screw goes though. I made doublers like I did on my 39% Radiowave several years back.
Make sure the formers are still glued to the fuse good ( one was seperated). Had a few areas where the fiberglass was separating from the balsa on the inside near the phenolic tube area, thin CA and a baggie, rub it back in. That was it.......[8D] These planes are built light and we fly them hard in all sorts of conditions, so remember to look over the plane, even take the stabs off and check them once in a while.I also, tightened up the tube by using clear Mono-Kote cut in 1/4 strips and spirial wrapped it like a cand cane stripe, heated it with the iron. Worked great, usually I would use thin CA and sand to fit.

I added a 1/8 strip under the entire area the canopy sits on, as the balsa sides do not go all the way up and the top corners were buckling, easy fix. I will post pic's when the system lets me..

****NOTE TEAM FUTABA ON THE WINGS WILL SAY "GO TEAM FUTABA" for now it's staying,..maybe one day.*****
bholsten

Andy P.

Bill, that scheme is a peach!

I noticed your running incidence adjusters on your Nuance, any particular reason for that or just preferance?

Ive actually done away with the stab tabs and just use a short silicone tubing (YS throwback ) connector with a cropped paperclip curved end on either end, this hooks on to a virtically installed short piece of carbon tube just inside each stab half, simple and works!

Andy.

AmericanSpectre505

Hey Andy,

I purchased the plane from a friend that won the U.S. NATS in the Masters class (Archie Stafford). I know that quite a few of the pilots flying the Nuance did not like the location of the preset incidence. I can't comment on how it flew with the fixed incidence? I really like how it flies as it is. As of today I have 5 flights on it and I am nose heavy, not bad. Switching to a light carbon prop. will probably even it out.

I'm still working on changing colors little at a time. I like the green tips, but the blue and yellow I had.

The stabs; I'd rather see the root backed with carbon fiber with the tabs. I am a perfectionist and I can be overly criticat at times. All-and- all I'm impressed with the way the plane flies,..love the rudder power this plane has. Om going to wait on getting another until a few other products are released.


Regards,

Bill

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Bill, I'm glad to see you got a nice motor fit in the nose. I know you were looking for the Advance, but I hope the Hacker treats you well Congrats on your new plane.

AmericanSpectre505

Hey Joe,

Thanks a bunch! So far so good...

Bill

danamania

My Nuance gets a new spinner. Is the Falcon CF spinner from F3AU. Took a little fitting to get it all together, but here it is...

Andy P.

Thought I'd share this with you all, the new "AirFrame Pro" model stand from www.bondaero.co.uk

Its a CNC cut acrylic ended product with extruded plastic tube rails that have a threaded end to attach the rails to the ends of the stand. I went for the white version but other colours are available! Great for safely transporting your model to the field or just working on the airframe back in the workshop.

Andy.

MTK

The cradle looks good.

I make mine from PVC tubing from local home repair stores. The key for me, since I've used a minivan for transport since their inception in the early 80's, is to custom fit the cradle such that is stradles the rear seats when the seat backs are laid down flat.My current minivan is older (2004) and seats don't stow awayinto the floor. So it serves as a model carrier in my van as well

Andy P.

Hi Matt,

I liked this product as primarily it is designed for the Nuance, Prolog, Episode family but I'd say most modern airframes would fit. There's also an "AirFrame Mini" version too which is aimed at the smaller Monolog's etc, a nice product from Chris to compliment the BJ range of aircraft he supplies.

Andy P.

I just swapped out my U/C legs on my Nuance for the reduced sweep version, wow what a difference it has made when flying from grass strips. Still only got 10 flights on this airframe though due to work commitments and of course the good old 'British Weather' but I'm really enjoying how it feels already.

I'll be at the World Cup event with Chris from 'Bondaero' here in the UK at the end of May, will be interesting to see what others are using. Anyone else from RCU attending?

STEVE HOSNER

I just received the following drawing from B.J. Parks for a rear mount firewall for the Nuance.
Not sure if it has been posted earlier or not. B.J. really has great customer service. I e-mailed
a request for the drawing and within two days I received it. Headed for the shop.....


Steve

Neko

New to the whole 2M thing, here. All I've built before is ARFs. Can someone explain that template drawing from Steve H. a little?

What is the scale (how big is it)? What do the 2.5 and 3 degree markings near the large holes mean? Does the bottom piece with tabs fit into the two slots on the top piece? If so, from the front or the back? What's the best way to cut the holes and slots?

Thanks,

David

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

Not sure what the degree marks are, but the answer to the second question is yes. I would assume from the back. Not sure if you have done a firewall David, if so please disregard. I will explain how I do it though just in case you haven't.

I would cut a piece of 1/16" balsa the size of the back of your spinner. Drill a hole big enough for the motor and prop adapter, or thrust washer. Double side sticky tape it to your spinner backplate. Take an old prop, cut off everything but the center. Mount the motor to the firewall. Put it through the nose of the plane, bolt on the spinner, prop with the 1/16" spacer. Then glue in the firewall. Some of us will use different glues. I make sure i use something that takes over 15 minutes to dry as i will then hang my plane nose high till the glue dries. Checking for any drips and wiping them.

On my nuance with dtfs wings, i ended up adding a little right thrust, and a little down thrust. Plus moved the cg forward a bit.

As for BJ, well, he is building/ painting me a new canopy right now for the one that i lost. He does have great customer service. I hope he keeps building us planes at a good value for a long time.

Chris

Neko

Thanks much, PF. You are right to suspect that I've never done a firewall before, so this is really helpful. Never would have thought of the balsa spacer.

cmoulder

A good glue to use is [link=http://shopbvmjets.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9]BVM Aeropoxy[/link] which is rather expensive but is ideal for firewalls because it doesn't run (thixotropic) and fills gaps very nicely.

You can purchase the glue tubes by themselves, but the glue gun and the long applicator tips make it extremely easy to lay down an even bead of glue that is appropriate for the application. Dip a finger in alcohol and smooth the bead for a very nice result. Although it seems wasteful to leave so much glue in the applicator tubes, after detaching from the glue gun you can put them in a Ziplok bag and put them in the freezer for later use. One drawback is that this stuff takes 24 hours to cure. However, once cured it makes for a very strong bond.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Loctite hysol 9462 is also a very strong glue for firewall installation. It is off-white in color and thixotropic.

Jason Arnold

I don't see what's wrong with using Z-poxy or any other 30 minute epoxy with some glass fibre mixed in. Simple, cheap and strong as.

No need for expensive solutions here. And remember, the glue joint is only as strong as what you are gluing to...

Cheers,
Jason.

TonyF

My Feedback: (92)

BVM Aeropoxy is Hysol 9462. Available at McMaster-Carr at better prices. It is also available in a faster set version, Hysol 9462F. It may seem expensive, but once you use it you won't go back to mixing up glue with a glass filler. This stuff is really nice and the applicator gun with the long nozzle makes it really nice to get in to tough places. And it stays where you put it with a very solid joint. It is also less likely to shrink, putting that unsightly bulge in the fuse right where the bulkhead is mounted.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Good to know.

From my experiences, the glue is super strong and I only need to apply a minimum amount to establish a solid joint. I also use it to glue hatch latch etc critical components where glue failure is not acceptable.

wryman

My Feedback: (9)

With the Hysol 9462 when you are done you can put the nozzle in a Ziploc bag in freezer so you don't waste what it inside the nozzle and let it come to room temp when you need it again. Prevents waste and keeps you from having to buy more epoxy and nozzles.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I'll have to try that. I gave up on the nozzles due to the amount of waste. Should say I save them for when absolutely necessary. Mixing in a cup is usually fine.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

That is what I do. Just use a small piece of wood dowel to push whatever amount needed out. Do the same on the other tube.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

And you guys are just using a fillet of Hysol around the joint between firewall and fuse? Not pre-gluing the edges of the firewall or trying to force in gaps?

patternflyer1

My Feedback: (11)

I use epoxy. And yes, I glue the edges also. I install the motor/ firewall combo the way i explained a few posts back (before gluing it in) then I make a light pencil mark around one side of the firewall. Usually the back side. Then I use blue tape and tape about 1/4" away from it on the back side, and about a half inch in front of that. Then mix up my epoxy, wet the firewall and the fuse between the tape. Then I add either chopped fiberglass or carbon depending on the firewall material i am using. Install the firewall as i explained and then wipe it clean with my finger to make a nice fillet. Remove the tape after it sets up a little and you are good to go. Probably a little more work than the expensive stuff, but its how I do it and have never had an issue.

Chris

MTK

Never did understand the need for rear rake of landing gear on Pattern models. I don't think I have ever seen it on full scale aerobats, with good reason...