nosram

Matt,
Sorry about the mishap with the plane..ouch.. If you want to get rid of the wing bags and props seperate I am interested.
Let me know?
NIck Marson

Ryan Smith

My Feedback: (25)

Hi guys!

I just wanted to share some pictures of my Vanquish. I bought it from Chris at SEFF 2012, however due to work getting in the way, I didn't finish it until March of this year. Upon completion of the airplane, I loaned it to my good friend Joey Hayes who is taking a break from IMAC to fly some pattern again.

Being on who can not leave well enough alone, I basically recovered the airplane to suit my tastes. My equipment is as follows:

Hacker Q60 7M F3A motor
APC 20.5x14e propeller
Castle Creations ICE 80 HV2 ESC
JR MPH83T rudder servo
JR MP91T aileron servos
JR DS3717HV elevator servos
Spektrum AR7610 receiver
(2) Thunder Power 480mAh 2S LiPo receiver packs
Thunder Power 10S 5000mAh G8 25C LiPo motor batteries
Spektrum DX18 transmitter

It's flying incredibly well and I couldn't be happier with it. My next project is probably going to be to fabricate a canalizer for it,, but absent of that, I look forward to flying it more. Below are some shots that I took of the airplane at my first contest in nearly four years here at Hoffman Estates.

nosram

I would appreciate it if someone could indicate their prefered way to secure the wheeel pants to the gear?
I do not believe that the intended attachment method will last more than two flights............

Thank you in advance,
Nick Marson

flyinhigh1

I have 3 or 400 flights on mine, pants still firmly attached with no intervention, attached as noted in the manual. All on grass fields and flown all winter as well.

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

Thought you guys might be interested in this. I'm trying a new cantalizer on the Vanquish. I have had great success with my first one but this time I'm going about 30% bigger and installing it in the canopy, this will make it much easier to install and be much stronger. Hopefully will be able to flight test this in about a week. The F13 sequence has some pretty rudder hungry maneuvers so hopefully this will help a bunch! The picture is just a mock up with depron to get the slots cut and whatnot but you get the idea.

nosram

Flyinhigh1
Thank you for the info, I certainly wouldn't have thought that that arrangement was going to last.
Great news...
Nick Marson

davisf

My Feedback: (20)

I wish my experience with extreme flight was as good. Just a heads up: There are NO parts available to fix the silver bullett. I crashed on my first flight and bent the shaft and the shaft holder. Curtis says there are no parts to rebuild the motor. OK, I KNOW we are NOT supposed to crash! But if there are NO parts and NO help with the bullet, I wasted $200! I'm heading for a Hacker. Should have done it in the first place.

jetmech43

My Feedback: (9)

you can try shulman aviation he might have the parts you need

davisf

My Feedback: (20)

Saw you post re the silver bullet. I use it for one attempted take off...oopps. Found that the motor is throw away. No parts, no help NO NOTHING. Keep in mind that it is the same price as a Hacker A60! PS: I just flew my first contest with a Maya set up for electric.

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

The new cantalizer worked very well. Being mounted in the canopy it is much stronger and easier to adjust and install. The mount in fiber glassed into the canopy and the tcan is secured with two 4-40 bolts. Being about 30% bigger than the old one, definitely increased overall performance, especially in yaw.

Specs:
14" Span
2.5" tips
5" root
Mounted 4.5" above the canopy floor
Set to .8deg positive incidence (same as wing)

Chris

PatternFlyer

My Feedback: (182)

How many of you had gear plate problem?
One that my friend built got right leg caught on grass after landing but gear plate didn't show any damage.
Only a slight damage to the side of the fuse just above the gear. We added plywood plates to both sides. It had 3 flights.

Last weekend, we flew in a really difficult cross wind with gust over 25.
He bounced once on landing. Next day was dead calm. On 3rd landing, a very smooth one, the gear plate cracked half. Total flight of 10 or 12.

Gear plate seems too soft.

We are adding a birch plywood plate with carbon laminated in the middle after removing triangle balsa pieces.

If you ever bounce a couple of times, I would suggest adding a plywood plate on top & bottom of the gear plate.

STEVE HOSNER

Chris,

What is the overall thickness of the cantalizer ? Is it sheet stock or is it built as a balsa framework sheeted with 1/16" sheeting?
Thanks for your help!

Steve

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

Steve, the cantalizer is made out of a sheet of 3/16" balsa.

Chris

cmoulder

I think the spelling is "canalizer" (no "t").

Probably related to the word "canal" or "channel" since it is supposed to redirect airflow.

"Cantalizer" sound like some funky harness that might be used on trotting horses.

STEVE HOSNER

Thanks Chris!

FLYERSG

Ryan: Would you mind briefly explaining the technique you used to remove the original covering?

Mike

Ryan Smith

My Feedback: (25)

Mike,

My apologies for the delayed reply, I just now saw it.

For the areas where I was not going to keep any covering, I simply took a heat gun on the highest heat setting (hobby-grade heat gun, if you use an industrial-grade one you will melt foam and catch wood on fire as I think they can get pretty close to 1000°; hobby guns aren't even half that), basically melted the covering in one area, and began to peel, applying heat as necessary to remove material without having to use much force. If you are tearing the covering or the color layer is separating from the clear polyester, you are not applying enough heat. Any areas with open bays (control surfaces) can be sliced in the open bays and heated as necessary to remove the covering.

For the areas adjacent to where I would be keeping the covering, I was much more careful, and I probably used a covering iron to start things off, and then once I got a sizable piece of covering lifted, I would go back to the heat gun. As you can see, the scheme is the same from the yellow on the upper portion of the fuselage upward. The entire process was one of those "hip bone, leg bone" things, where I found myself pulling more and more off. I knew I wanted to straighten the colors out on the rear portion of the fuselage, but it wasn't until I started analyzing how the covering was applied that I ended up removing as much as I did. I had initially hoped to salvage the white covering, but on my airplane at least, it was not under laid to the tail, and I didn't want a seam.

The wings and stabs were totally uncovered as I wanted to change the color scheme to the pink/blue layout, modifying the colors to the red/yellow scheme as I felt that scheme matched the fuselage better and I also felt it would be more visible in the air. I will try to get some pictures of the bottoms of the wings and stabs, but they are all yellow with purple piano keys that extend from the trailing edge forward, but not to the leading edge. There is approximately a six-inch stripe of yellow that follows the leading edge, so the front edge of the keys are angled the same as the leading edge.

Also note that the fiberglass parts were simply covered over with matching UltraCote self-adhesive trim instead of painting over the blue. Since the scheme didn't change, only the colors, I was able to pull this off relatively easily by applying an oversize piece of covering to the areas where I wanted to change the color and carefully trimming along the slight ridge where the silver pin stripe abuts the blue. The only paint that was used were rattle cans of white on the landing gear legs.

MTK

Why not call it a TANTALIZER?? It tantalizes one into thinkingthat onecan fly better

FLYERSG

Ryan: Thanks for the info on covering removal. Your Vanquish looks great!

Mike

dando

Hello, guys,


First, thank You for the very informative thread! Two years after I bought my Vanquish F3A, I finally maidened it. The equipment is as follows:


The motor got at most around 70 degrees Celsius on the rotor towards the rear bearing, which is high but should be still safe. The bearings are rubber sealed and I'd like to replace them with metal shielded ones, which should improve cooling, too. The ambient temperature was about 34 degrees Celsius, which isn't very cool.
The model is one of the first production versions with the non-removable cowl and fixed rudder part.


On the first take off, right after the model lifted off the ground, the canopy blew off. The plane was controllable so I landed it successfully. I had done some full-power tests on the ground, but apparently they were too short, because there were no signs of canopy attachment problem.
The damages are a broken former in the canopy, some cracks in the paint (but not in the fiberglass) and coating of the canopy, as well as some scratches on the left wing panel, as the hatch hit it (they seem to be only cosmetic). Оne of the magnets is also lost, but I think I have some appropriate available. The most probable reason for this issue to me is the canopy retention mechanism, whose pin might haven't been fully engaged in the canopy opening (please, refer to the photographs attached). Then maybe the balsa former has got broken, resulting in the canopy getting swollen, therefore wider, shorter and unsecured by the pin anymore, so at the end it flew off, pushed by the air pressure inside the fuselage.
Has any of You experienced any similar failures? How would You recommend me to proceed with the repairs?
I'd consider gluing the former back, supporting it with additional piece of balsa, and gluing a new magnet. Then enlarging the opening in the canopy for the retention pin in the direction shown on one of the attached photos. I'm not quite sure how to restore the paint and coating.
Any advice on how to avoid similar failures in the future would be very appreciated.


I also contacted ExtremeFlight by e-mail ([email protected]) two weeks ago, but got no response.


Thank You in advance!

Best regards,
Nickolay

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Nickolay, get yourself a tube of Hysol. It is a fantastic, very workable adhesive. It is also superb at filling in chips in the composite or paint. It is lightweight, and hard and sandable when dry. You can massage it into cracks in paint, fill small voids, and as an adhesive to reattach broken parts or attach new parts. Many of us are using it to glue in motor mounts in these high power airplanes, so strength is a non-issue for gluing formers and wood parts.

Jeff Worsham

My Feedback: (28)

Nickolay, My Vanquish came from EF last week and it does not have the spring loaded canopy latch like yours. Only the tabs at front of canopy, the two magnets, and then a hole on each side of fuse for a nylon screw to go thru and thread into blind nuts in the tabs on canopy base. With those screws and the front tabs locked into the cowling, the canopy should not come off. Are you using the screws?

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

jeff the original version didn't have the 2 screws on the side, instead it had a sliding release at the upper of the canopy....like in his photos...which cause problems to more then a few.

dando

Dear fellows, thank You for the advices!

gaRCfield, could You please specify the model of the Hysol glue You are having success with, so I could look around in the local stores? A link would be very helpful. Do You think there would be a need of further finishing of the paint or clear coating after applying the glue?
Jeff Worsham, Dansy is correct. The earlier version of the Vanquish has two carbon pins in the front of the canopy and the canopy retention mechanism at the back. However, a close-up picture of the newer arrangement would be very informative to me.

Best regards,
Nickolay

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

It's Hysol 9462. It dries pretty white - not like a paint finish but it is pretty uniform. It is similar to epoxy and microballoons, however I find it is easier to work with (very slow drying time), holds its shape very well, is easier to sand, and is stronger than what would be an equivalent amount of microballoons in epoxy. You would need to sand, prime, and paint any finished surfaces if that is what you are after. Or you could color it with a red Sharpie if that works for you. I've done that in small areas on covered planes.
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/hysol-c-27_28.html