Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
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Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Well, it finally happened, slightly hard landing and broke the blocks.
Not sure how to repair it. It appears I need to go in from the top.
I think this means cutting open the sheeting to get to it.
Does anyone have any experience with this repair that can shed some light.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
KW_Counter
Not sure how to repair it. It appears I need to go in from the top.
I think this means cutting open the sheeting to get to it.
Does anyone have any experience with this repair that can shed some light.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
KW_Counter
#2
RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
With out looking at it I'd say repair from the bottom if there is no reason to mess up the top of the wing. Could you post a photo of the damage?
#3
RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
I repaired mine from the bottom. If there is no damage to the top of the wing, leave it alone. I opened up the full bay on mine to gain easy access. It is easier IMO to replace the sheeting in a large piece than a smaller one. Also having the full bay open makes the repair easier to do.
Ken
Ken
#4
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
If the SS is an ARF, you can probably soften the glue with a heat gun and clean them up. I'm betting that the LG blocks are from pine or some other softwood. You might want to think about replacing them with maple or some other hardwood if you are going this far into the repair.
Just my $.02
Bob
Just my $.02
Bob
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Thanks for all of the tips.
Until I open it the damage to the naked eye is minimal - photos won't help.
I'll let you know what I find when I get in there.
Again, Thanks,
KW_Counter
Until I open it the damage to the naked eye is minimal - photos won't help.
I'll let you know what I find when I get in there.
Again, Thanks,
KW_Counter
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Afte ripping out some landing gears in what I thought were normal landings, but a little hard, I got into the habit of ALWAYS reinforcing the landing gear area when I was building a kit. I did the same with the firewalls.
#8
RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Yeah.. me too.. I noticed on the 60 size there are no lite ply doublers in the area of the block on the balsa ribs whch seems odd but this is an older kit.
#9
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Once you get things apart and the blocks removed, one method would be to reassemble the broken wing formers with CA. That in itself would not be strong enough. But you could cut a 'sister rib' and laminate it to the broken one after tracing the rib pattern.
Just another $.02
Bob
Just another $.02
Bob
#10
RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
NIEDM gives good advice on the doubler rib. I usually repair the broken rib and place a doubler alongside usually fore or aft of the main spar. whichever is broken... if both i just replace it. I usually have the doubler just shy of the original so there is not a doublewide rib showing under the covering.
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
I flew off a grass field last summer that was pretty rough and had a lot of small unseen holes that needed to be dodged on take off. (made things interesting after a 16 year break from flying) Anyway when I had a decent landing (I thought) and rotated the wire gear setup in the wings I opened up the area around the blocks, Drilled out the hole to fit a dowel about twice the diameter of the gear wire. I epoxied it inplace and when dry drilled it out in the center so the wire fit real tight. I also epoxied around the block to help hold it in place. So far finished the summer and the gear it still tight. A fellow club member told me to be sure the gear has no play. If there is any play in the gear it will move and wear on the block and eventually something will give.
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Wing mounted wire landing gears are a disaster waiting to happen. Especialy so if flying off grass. The gear rotates on landing and twists the mounting block out of the structure. I would suggest the following repair. Make a new wire gear. Make the part of the gear that goes up into the wing long enough to locate in a ply plate installed just under the wing top surface. This will prevent the gear from twisting backwards on landing.
Personaly I never use wire gears. Attaching the pants is always a nuisance. The picture shows the 60 size Super Sportster. I made an aluminum gear that screwed to a 1/4 ply plate in the bottom of the fuselage. It can just be seen. Save yourself some grief, get rid of the wire gear.
Ed S
Personaly I never use wire gears. Attaching the pants is always a nuisance. The picture shows the 60 size Super Sportster. I made an aluminum gear that screwed to a 1/4 ply plate in the bottom of the fuselage. It can just be seen. Save yourself some grief, get rid of the wire gear.
Ed S
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Well, I got it back together.
The problem was there is a block glued to the top of the plate with the slot.
This block came completely loose.
I was able to glue it back in with 30 minute epoxy.
It appears the ribs in this area are plywood and not balsa.
Test flight is tomorrow.
Thanks for all of the good suggestions.
KW_Counter
The problem was there is a block glued to the top of the plate with the slot.
This block came completely loose.
I was able to glue it back in with 30 minute epoxy.
It appears the ribs in this area are plywood and not balsa.
Test flight is tomorrow.
Thanks for all of the good suggestions.
KW_Counter
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Well, I got it back together and took it flying.
After two flights the same problem, the wheel wire was loose.
When I examined it same problem, that small bock came loose.
I attribute this to not being able to completely clear away the old glue.
I opened a small hole in the top to examine things and to apply pressure to the repair.
I was able to do a better job clearing the old glue out.
I also decided to replace the small block with a 2 1/2" long piece of cabinet grade 1/2" plywood.
This gave me a lot more glue surface. Then I screwed the bugger in with 2 #4 wood screws.
I got 3 flights in on Sunday and no apparent problems.
Thanks for all of the help,
KW_Counter
After two flights the same problem, the wheel wire was loose.
When I examined it same problem, that small bock came loose.
I attribute this to not being able to completely clear away the old glue.
I opened a small hole in the top to examine things and to apply pressure to the repair.
I was able to do a better job clearing the old glue out.
I also decided to replace the small block with a 2 1/2" long piece of cabinet grade 1/2" plywood.
This gave me a lot more glue surface. Then I screwed the bugger in with 2 #4 wood screws.
I got 3 flights in on Sunday and no apparent problems.
Thanks for all of the help,
KW_Counter
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
Well, I guess I fixed it right.
Yesterday I belly flopped the plane in.
Bent the landing gear way back, but they didn't come loose!
Today I reversed the landing gear so they
point forward instead of backward.
We'll see how they track on Thursday.
Life in the Fast lane,
KW_Counter
Yesterday I belly flopped the plane in.
Bent the landing gear way back, but they didn't come loose!
Today I reversed the landing gear so they
point forward instead of backward.
We'll see how they track on Thursday.
Life in the Fast lane,
KW_Counter
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RE: Super Sportster 40 Landing Blocks
I do the same thing as Ed Smith .. I get out of the wings all together and mount my gear just in front of the wings on the fuse.. It is lighter and far easier on the wings... If you are building it takes less time and is easier .. If you are repairing it depends on the damage because you will still need to repair the wings ..