YPC

Hi J......

I found that it is always a fine balance with prop selection between power - required lift - finding a prop that does not tend to climb out of the water, but still give you all the punch and speed - that is why to much prop diameter or 3 bladers are generally a no ! no !.... to much lift and paddle effect.......

Of all the props I tried...and blew money on......the ABC 2714 was always my first choice for 'racing the course'.....it is definitely not one of my fastest props in a straight line....but for the fastest prop around the course.....it is the best......a smooth - predictable set up.....one can race it with absolute confidence...

The 26 cc is a great motor..... I ran mine STOCK for quite some time with great performance.

Head space clearance and Carb Pop off pressure are the two 'easy' tuning steps that make a huge difference to the motors performance.
These two specs ensure that the motor is cooled effectively - has optimum compression with a consistent fuel flow
If these two specs are not set up correctly - you may as well not bother with the rest.......

Since I have 'retired' from racing Gas ........I might just share a few of my 'kept secrets' sometime.......


YPC

jay384

Lex Burgers Whos pipe is that Im have One of Eddys Samba pipes at the moment. Your pipe look really neat

lex burgers

It's originally made by JohanD, also Dutch. 

lex burgers

YPC

Love to SEE IT in the water Lex !...

Exceptionally Beautiful finish !..........well done..

YPC

lex burgers

Me To YPC, but the weather is not helping along over here...... Lots of wind!

jpelezo

dom thanks for the info, I have stayed with stock deck clearance and use factory metering tool, sometime raise needle lever just a little. your new pipe did work on stock 28. I run 2714 and 2714 upped to 4.0 I also run modded 270 ss cut to 67mm. have stayed away from 3blade as per things you said both 2714 modded by dasbotathanks,jim pelezo

jay384

Nice Looking finish on the the boat there lex. Have you got another lower dive

Hesco Racing

First run with Dominator F1 for member in our club. Running strong and consistent and getting better. Weather was a bit sketchy but luckily I know the hull can handle it.
Sorry for the low quality I took it with a smart phone and late afternoon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjz_U...ature=youtu.be

Cobus

YPC

Looks Awesome Cobus...very comfortable on the water .......looks like the 2014 F1 Gas sesson is going to be a GOOOOD ONE !.....

YPC

F1TUNNEL

Thanks for sharing Cobus!! Your hull looks really nice in the rough water. Was the hull running one of your lowers too? I got some picks from Wennie of his new gas tunnel build, looks nice too. Hope you take some more vid as you guys get it dialed in
cheers,
Dion

Hesco Racing

That's running with your (YPC) camber leg. Leg is running a bit high so Steven is going to have to modify the swivel bracket to get the prop lower.

Cobus

YPC

Looks like a good 'Combo' .....I always thought the two would work well together.....Tell Steven He can pop over anytime ....I'll help him get it sorted !

YPC

YPC

Thought I would share this latest boat build process with all on the forum whilst I am putting it all together...its been a while since I added some worth.........

The client is adding his own hardware - servo's and power plant.....I'm going to add a 'YPC Enigma Camber leg' to the transom for him.......

The YPC hulls are Gel coated then vacuum molded using a bi-axial woven cloth whetted out with a polyester resin. This process and layup helps strengthen the overall boat, especially in the corners and across the steps where chop strand would lose it weave and be a weak point.....strips of core mat are added in strategicareas where more rigidity is required......especially over the CG area of the hull....

I focus very specifiacally on strengthening the transom area so as to ensure that it is as rigid as possible, as well as strengthening the stern across its width 'sponson to sponson'...as this area takes a huge hammering.....and needs to be absolutely rigid for good precise prop set up and operation.......if the transom/spoinsons flex at all.....it plays havoc with the boats set up and performance.....and much overall speed can be lost....

We use the 'sump radio box' system (servo decks protrude) .......simply a very convenient system and works well 'if' installed correctly......

Deck and Hull will be joined to-morrow......

YPC

Was sharing a few past club race video's......have to say we have had some Great Races !!!

Gets the heart Pumping......All these boats are YPC's.......I'm racing in the Orange.....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSpFF4fcWrQ[/youtube]

Their are many more F1 racing Video's at the very end of my YouTube page : http://www.youtube.com/user/formulaish

YPC

Marrying the Deck and Hull......do you Hull take Deck to be your rightful component....for better or worse.......I DO !....well then....you may be bonded!...LOL..blame it on the resin fumes...LOL

After the various transom reinforcements and radio box bond has cured, I recheck to see that the two components are 'coming together' perfectly ...its time for Bond..as James would say ...

The YPC hulls have a flange joint...for a few reasons:

When I bond the deck and hull together – its the best system for me to ensure a ‘TRUE’ hull ( you don't want the hull warped) - I have battled previously using other systems . One has to ensure that the work surface you are bonding on is absolutely 'flat'- a warped hull is impossible to set up correctly - or to fix.

I bond the deck and hull with a flexible ‘SEKAFLEX’ marine product, for several mechanical reasons – a 'rigid' bonding product is more likely to separate on any severe impact (I know from from experience) a great practical advantage with the flange is -if the inevitable happens (‘smash’) and you need to make a proper repair from the inside – the deck and hull can be separated.

The rim acts as a spray rail – deflects the water rising up the side of the sponson.

Creates a strong reinforced rail around the boat – capable of better enduring impact.



A tip when using SEKAFLEX...soak the tube in warm water to soften it up....otherwise your hands and forearms will be poked after applying the bead.

I apply a liberal bead of SEKAFLEX around the flange (closer to the inside of the flange radius) so as to achieve an even better bond and to be able to reduce th eflange width when trimming it down.

The transom and aft sponson area gets a good amount of SEKAFLEX in the various places to ensure that as many key surfaces bond to one another - ensuring a rigid transom and sponson foot print aft. ( remember - any flex here and your set up will be all over the show)

When the two components are brought together - I ensure that the two are perfectly aligned and that the hull is true to the flat surfcae - then I apply pressure all around the flange joint (oozing the SEKAFLEX out) place the clamps around the entire flange to hold the components perfectly in place to cure.....

I leave this to set for at least 24 hours - otherwise - if the SEKAFLEX is the slightest bit tacky - it hinders the trimming process......

In the Meantime !........I'll get on with making up the various components for the 'Enigma Camber outboard leg...'

YPC

jvdd

nice work Dom

I like how it all comes together like that.

jim

YPC

Thanks Jim....its a fun process....

The Enigma Camber leg...is also made up of a few components that come together very nicely !

YPC

jay384

Dominic what are you charging for the enigma leg ?

YPC

Armed with a few handy tools ......its time to trim down the flange...

The flange 'deck side' ends up at around 4mm in width......and the flange 'hull side' is around 7mm in width providing a good bonding surface......and..... acts as a 'spray rail'

jay384

Nice work dominic These hulls look really good what was the reasoning behind molding the radio box in? Wouldnt it be better to be able to move it for ballast and balancing

YPC

Hi Jay !

Due to the weight of the Outboard ........I found that weight is required as far forward as possible for ideal balance and set up,
The Radio box is installed as far forward as I can place it - I also fit a 500 ml IV bag in the very nose to add further weight on the day as needed.
The Fuel Bad ( IV bag) is placed behind the radio box - on the CG - so that the boats balance is not effected as it empties.

YPC

YPC

Added the Fences to this one ........client request ...

The fences...apart from looking authentic : Help straight line running as well as flow the air 'more directly' over the wing section... generating effective lift whilst keeping the nose down.

wet a wild

hi dom how are you? i just finish stephens 29.5cc for his f1. i think he maybe phone you later for a spare cable or 2. really nice looking hull you are bussy with.
see ya later
john

jay384

Dom Thanks for the reply. Heres how I have my caurrent F1 set up. It has near on 500 geams of lead infront of the radio box as ballast. This is because of the weight of the geared lower drive. With the geared lower the CG is typically further forward as to compensate fot the extra weight

the last photo was the boats first outing with no ballast. Going out tomorrow with ballast in it to see the diffrence.