rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

thats pretty much what i did, i don't have a screw holding my pinion to the outdrive and i put some parts packaging inbetween the diff cases to loosen things up a bit....

the lug

rubber_junkie

been out terrorising tarmac an lite jumps chaos was going well till centre diff cup came away from diff, was due to centre screw popped out. Sorted that 2 tanks on then rear pinion stripped lasted longer then expected So in went metal pinions front an rear, also dropped in a metal geared servo for thottle as stock wasn't getting full throw even tho EPA on radio was at max [] proper now want to fit metal gear servo on steering just saver gotto sort.
waiting on weather to get better/dry then out bedding in pinions

vicdat

Good job RJ...that sounds like my story 2 or 3 years ago. I've had the Trinity metal pinions for some time now, and use my patented "fill-hole hole" with Associated 5000 wt Silicone oil (very thick); this stuff doesnt seep out much, and I can visually check the gears and fill it often. Check out some of my posts from way back when to see pics.

rubber_junkie

thanks, yeah may follow suit with lube hole in housing using 7k/7000wt for lube as have plenty, this one hasn't reached spec of last chaos had years back but getting there slowly, same pinions used then so know their durable

Allistair

Ok I've been trying to find info in this thread, but there are so many pages, I'm getting blurried eyed.
I'm about to try and do an electric conversion on my Chaos. Has anyone figured out a way for it to survive Brushless?
Should I just stick with a Brushed version?
Is there anything posted like instructions on converting? Or is it simply just remove all nitro stuff, make a bracket to hold the motor, and add electronics?

rubber_junkie

haven't used buggy for awhile now, just put battery on charge as weather liking good over here [8D]
Everyones buggy been parked up??

KenUDoThis

Got some spring fever this weekend here in NY and I got out the chaos and was terrorizing my neighborhood. I just LOVE the way it sounds like a mini screaming F1 racer down the block!

I also tried a bit of grass and a pebble path on the side of my house (very careful to ensure smooth power application and to keep up momentum to preserve the glass diffs). Looks like there is a small leak in the head somewhere since I have oil around the glowplug and some out the back of the head. Buggy is now a mess, but still so much FUN!

Haupia

Just picked up one of these brand new for a hundred buck$. Its a fun little car. Only did 3 tanks so far and the first 2 was breaking it in. Running like a champ for now. Reading up on these, and the diffs seem the weak link. What can I do to beef em up, or are there any diffs that are compatible with the Chaos? I know it's discontinued, but its a mini nitro and so dam cool.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

you'll want these... and look on pg 79 for more info about them

http://www.********.co.uk/metal-driv...-outdrive.html

the lug

vicdat

I figured that I would try to resuscitate this thread before it completely flatlines...
My original stock Chaos (with Trinity metal pinions...) is running good, and I inherited a brand new one with all the factory aluminum hop-ups, shocks, and Hitec metal gear servos. This will be my new baby and I hope to get it all together in the next few weeks. Weather here in SoCal is getting good for some bashing so the smell of nitro in the air will be my X-mas present to myself. Now to find a source for the new pinions...any ideas???

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

I saw several of the Chaos' for sale at a local Christmas Bazaar for $100.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

http://www.********.co.uk/metal-driv...-outdrive.html i've had good luck with these i haven't really driven mine it a while but yeah... the write up on how i installed them is on pg 79...

the lug

The_Shark

i remember my trinity next, what a heap, even with the aluminum diffs, it would strip them in a hot second.

rubber_junkie

Had metal gears fitted took about 6 tanks for gears to settle in an get back the free roll of buggy.Sold mine on awhile ago, want to try lrp s18 bx if can source one, till then me xray & kyosho shall hold [8D]

magnum12

hey guys been a while since ive been on here wondering if you guys can give a run down of the steel gears you guys use and out drives, dog-bones etc
thanks

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

i was just using the ones i linked above...

the lug

Oracus

Anyone tried the metal diff from the Hobbyking 1/16 nitro buggy on the Chaos? Would be nice if the parts are compatible.

rubber_junkie

the hobbyking buggy is same as acme nb16 which i used the metal pinions an cups in my buggy when had it just need to use longer centre shaft at rear.

KenUDoThis

Wow, thread is still ALIVE!!!

Thought I'd mention I ran my Chaos about a month ago and it was still going great until the 3rd tank where it just stopped even though the engine was still going. I thought for sure it was finally the diffs; however it turned out that the engine mount screws all loosened up to the point where the pinion was no longer touching the main gear. I can't believe they used such puny cheesy philips screws to hold down the engine.

I see prices for it going up quite a bit on Ebay.

subiman

alright, so I'm new to the whole forum thing, I just got into nitro rc in the fall of 2014 and my first nitro rig was a chaos! I read through almost all of these pages for info and took a lot of it in and applied it to my chaos. I bought the thing on ebay for 80 bucks used with some inferno wheels and slicks. I have run probably 15 tanks through it on the stock motor and never stripped a pinion or drive cup... until I hit a wall with it and a tooth on the front pinion broke off. So I have read a lot about the trinity metal pinions and I cannot find them anywhere. so I figured since the mini inferno parts are so similar, I would just transfer as many heavy duty parts as I could. It has become a money pit, but so far I can say it is worth it. as it sits right now, I have metal gear servos, gpm aluminum body shocks, an airtronics mx-3 radio and receiver, flip-top fuel tank lid, and a Picco p-zero. The motor is new and I have not started the breaking in process. On my next trip home, I am going to drill new holes in the chassis to accomodate mini inferno bulkheads which will house the gpm hardened steel gear differentials. My center diff is locked and the drive cups are ca glued so I shouldn't have to worry about that for a while. But I have full aluminum rear arms, rear hubs, front c-hubs, steering knuckles, Tie-rods and front and rear universal joints in place of the dogbones that tend to pop out. I have 1/10 scale on-road te-37 wheels from hpi with rally tires on it right now and those have a 12mm hex which will flip right over to the mini inferno hub. I am using two mini inferno front ends to keep it more like the chaos is originally with equal length shocks all around. The ENTIRE front and rear ends will be directly from the mini inferno, which has a longer wheel base, but should be fun just as well. What I like about the chaos is the shorter wheel base for hair-pin turns. This will be an entirely experimental project that will take a lot of time as I am a full time college student but it should still be fun. and that's the goal of this hobby right?? And if I don't have fun with this, I still have my crt.5 to play with. Cheers!

I know this thread has been dead for some time, but I thought I could aid in breathing some new breath into it. And as soon as I figure out how to post pics, I will post pics of how the chaos sits right now.These are early pictures mind you, these were before the metal gear servos, picco pzero, gpm shocks, and mini-t aluminum adjustable tie rods. I will get some recent pictures up asap. Let's resurrect this thread!!!

Red7fifty

My Feedback: (73)

Thread is not dead, if you post on it! lol
FYI, that stock aircleaner does a lousy job filtering dirt...the case has plastic ribs on the inside, and that causes the foam to have voids where the dirt will pass through. The first time you encounter very fine dust, will become evident, as 30 seconds later, the engine pinch is dead.
I suggest a low profile HPI filter, with oil. I don't have the part # any longer, you will have to look it up yourself, or stop by any Hobby Town USA, and drive 'em nuts looking up a part # (Most of those employees can't look up a number to save their life)
A Q-Tip swab test inside the air cleaner elbow, will show if any dirt is passing through the air filter.......it should be COMPLETELY clean...if it isn't, well, that is proof it's not filtering.
Another option, is use a Motor Saver filter, but, you will have to cut a hole in the body for the filter. Do NOT use a K&N.......it won't filter fine dust either.

subiman

yea the stock motor's compression is getting kinda weak, no matter though, it has taken it's rightful place on the display shelf! The picco is installed and it came with a nice rubber air filter holder that fits perfectly with the body installed. I thought K&N only made filters for real cars? I have their drop-in filter in my Subaru outback.

Red7fifty

My Feedback: (73)

K&N's Valve Cover Breathers were resold as "R/C Car Air Filters" a few years back....at first, it would make more power, but as soon as enough fine dust got inside an ABC engine, compression was gone, and engine wore out, and needed a new piston/cylinder. You can sometimes find replacement pistons on Ebay....I picked up a few spares, but ended up sold all my Chaos stuff a couple years ago.
For Full Scale, sometimes they are okay, sometimes not. Check the other side of the airbox, and you will know how well it's working, or, not working.

subiman

Good deal! thanks for the tips. I'm fairly new to the nitro scene and can use as much advise as possible. I have done a lot of research, but there's always more! BTW what kind of glow plugs should I be stocking up on for the p-zero? I know to get turbo plugs, but hot medium and cold? I use 30% nitro currently in cold MN climate.

Red7fifty

My Feedback: (73)

Depends......
Plug temp, effects "Timing" of engine.
Too Hot, and engine timing is too soon, causing pre-ignition/detonation. Often, it will result with a melted plug element during the run, and won't relight on the next tank of fuel. In worse cases, it will also cause pitting of the piston and head.
Too Cold, and engine will be sluggish, and often die at idle.
The air temperature of the day, 80~90* vs 50~60* will also dictate a different plug than your "Normal"
There are many heat ranges to tune.....Very Cold, Cold, Med Cold, Med, Med Hot, Hot, Very Hot.
In your case, probably Medium and Medium Hot most of the time...unless it is very warm outside, then, maybe a Medium-Cold
If its freezing outside, then I suggest wrapping the cylinder head with aluminum foil, and Scotch Tape, to trap engine heat....on freezing days, the engine won't be able to get warm enough, so it's "Cold" for the entire run.....and that's bad for the ABC pinch. The cly needs to get to normal temp.
Buy a few different ones to experiment with, and stock up when you find what seems to be best.
Once you choose a fuel, remember different brands will run differently.