macmuz

Hello Chris. Thank you for your reply. I've read your post #38 on page 2. I've taken a photo again, can you please confirm that I have the right idea on the new angle of the turbine rails to be modified. Also with my kit I had the push rod guides are missing and the little screws for the control horns where left out but these is no real issues as I have surplus stuff around, just have to find it all. The other thing I've noticed so far is that when I slide my wings together that its near impossible to pull them apart again. I have to use a bit of scrap ply between the root ribs and twist it to spread the wings apart. Has any one else come across this and what did they do to fix this? Thanks Mario..

bjnginge

Hi Mario, same here with mine- no pushrod tubes and tight wing fit. Not a problem really as i will get some carbon tube for the pushrods.
Most arfs i have with carbon tubes are very tight, i just sand them down slightly with fine grade sandpaper and they will slide on and off easy. You dont need to sand much.

Here is a photo sent to me from Shulman Aviation.It should help Cheers Brad

Chris Smith

My Feedback: (2)

Mario,
Your mount angle now looks about perfect.

Baron35R

I maidened my Turbinator with the electric retracts and brakes today. First class, no problems what so ever.
4-5 flights and about 280mah consumed out of a 2S 2100mah LiFe.
Brakes are my favorite. Very smooth to control.
Definitely worth the slightly higher price.
Be careful with the tire size and the wheel wells that come with the model. Its a tight fit and you may go with slightly smaller tires.

Cheers

Andreas

Baron35R

Here are some pics from yesterday at Peeler Park in Nashville.
We now have 5 Turbies flying, Chris Smiths how started the blog, Shepps scratch built and 3 of the Schulman kit

Baron35R

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lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

Dont use the stock plastic wells.... simply line the wheel opening with 1/32 ply! The opening is bigger than the plastic liner and a 3.25" fits easily in the opening.... The larger wheel provides the correct AOA.

Gary Szetlak

My Feedback: (13)

Is this plane a grass burner? My reaction 54 was. looking for something for a P80 SE to fly off grass but dont want to cause issues at the field. Thanks everyone
Gary

jetsett

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Gary,

yesh it's a grass burner. As you know, the grass grows back very quickly. The secret is to fly so often that you burn all the grass and the club members won't know any different.

it really is a great flying jet. Don't let the what the club thinks of the color of the grass discourage you from getting a turbinator.
All grass turns brown for the majority of the summer anyways.

csandt051196

My Feedback: (35)

What is a quality easy to find paint to paint the turbine compartment with? I have used rattle can with an auto over coat in the past. Just ordered a new one from DreamWorks.

Thanks
Scott

Baron35R

Scott
I coated the turbine compartment of mine with the BVM ceramic paint, available from Dreamworks as well.
But really a lot of options you can do there.

Andy

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

WHAT IS CORRECT GROUND AOA?? []

macmuz

Hey Guys.About to start installing all the components.Have you guys been adding lead in the nose or is it coming out pretty well on the CofG?Thanks Mario..

jetsett

My Feedback: (6)

Don't worry to much about component layout in order to balance.
I used almost 1-1/2 pounds of lead in the nose to balance, not including the 4 batteries.
The turbinator handles the extra weight just fine. Really a great flying aircraft.
I initially had a jet central bee (15.5lbs) in mine and found it used most of our grass field to take off.
So, I installed a Kingtech 100. Perfect combination. I'm really enjoying my Kingtech engine so far!

Chris Smith

My Feedback: (2)

Rapptor,

Ground AoA is not at all critical. But, level attitude should be your goal. If you can tell the nose is low sitting on the runway, then adjust it to level with shims under the nose gear mount. If it sits obviously nose high, it may mean you will contact the nose gear on landing and cause a crow hop or other undesired issues.

However, this is not one of those jets that is prone to hopping, so adjusting to level is good enough. No need to measure or anything. Eyeball it.

duthie

What size of fuel tank are you guys using?
I will be putting in a Jet Munt VT 80 into my Turbinator and was thinking that the Dubro 50oz tank will be too small?

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

It depends on how long you want to fly and how far into the throttle you are. 50 oz. is definitely too small.

I'd go with the Dubro 80 oz. tank. Your full throttle fuel consumption will be about 10 oz./minute. For an average flight you should use about 8 oz./minute. Figure 8 oz. for start up, taxiing out and take off, allow 2 minutes reserve (16 oz.) and that will give you 56 oz. left for a 7 minute flight. If you want to fly longer than 7 minutes or plan on being at WOTmost of the time then get the 100 oz. tank.

Joe

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

THANKS

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

WOW.. LOT OF BALLAST.. WAS IT GLASSED AND PAINTED?? SERVOES IN THE REAR ??

Baron35R

They all need a lot of weight in the nose, standard configuration with servos where they are supposed to go and the covering the ARF comes with.
Since all three that we had flying here when I built mine needed well above 12 oz and the ARF does not come with the nose hatch that Chris's early model had I decided to pour a mix of 12oz of lead shot mixed with finishing resin into the nose through the round opening in front of the nose gear. You don't want to balance it completely that way so that you can add and remove ballast later. This gets the weight as far forward as possible without cutting into the balsa nose.
A cardboard paper towel tube cut to an angle worked perfect. Finishing resin is fluid enough to allow an easy pour. Put the model on its nose and let it set overnight.
My Turbinator is all electric, meaning gear and brakes. I built a battery tray that slides forward above the gear. It holds 3 2100 Life's. The front of it holds under a square stock cross bar, then there is enough room for lead weights across, then the three batteries. It is held in place by 2 4/40 shoulder nuts and bolts.
I will add a few pictures here in a sec. It is just the way I finished mine and it worked well for me but just a suggestion of course. I put about 10 flights on it the last two weeks and really like this jet. Great for club fields of 400ft or a bit less when you don't want to pull out the faster ones.
Don't worry about the weight of the nose balance. The large wing got great lifting capacity and it won't feel it a bit.
Cheers

Andy

zdsh13

I ended up melting my lead into cylinders and cored two holes in the nose cone to add my weight, a little balsa inserted to cover the holes and some covering and no one knows...

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

THANKS . VERY GOOD IDEAS.. MINE IS GLASSED.

macmuz

Hey Guys.Need CofG clarification. Instructions say it needs to be 7" back from the leading edge but from where do they want you to measure that from? From where the wing meets the fuzz or from the root rib?Thanks Mario..

zdsh13

I maidened my turbinator yesterday, sweet airframe... Flies like a nice sport plane. This was my first flight as a jet guy, the turbinator made it look easy. My setup has a Jetcat P-80SE and has ample vertical, all I need to change I to add more down elevator mix to flap. The landings are definitely different for me as I'm used to flying light aerobatic aircraft but my second landing was better.


http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=plcp&v=zqkbkkEg8KY

raptor30se

On my wing I had to cut out the fiberglass sleeves that were in all the wing bolt hold holes to relieve them alittle as to align the bolts so they would thread into the blind nuts to hold down the wing. I am wondering if I should now install a new sleeve out of carbon or aluminum into these holes? I believe that sleeve is more so there to keep the holes from elongating than preventing crushing.