stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I have always used solid wire to attach engine throttle to servo. I have heard of using cable. I am installing a DL50 on a gs Mustang. Any suggestions?

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Steve, here's what Futaba says about using a metallic type of throttle pushrod. Send an email to your RC manufacturer and listen to what they say before you do what someone on RCU recommends. Dan.

Guidelines for setting up gasoline engine models.
All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuselage from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I am using Futaba.  Also the   Smart Fly expander w/regulators.  So what you (futaba) are saying is to not use any kind of metal, either cable or solid pushwire?  I am making that 1.5 hr drive to my lhs this afternoon.  Sure would like to get my throttle setup today.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

If you're running radio equipment built since 1970 you don't have to worry about those guidelines.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

+1. I think those guidelines were written about 1950 and even then they were wrong.
I have used a cable for about 25 years on my throttle. I just make sure its isolated from the engine with a plastic keeper.
These days I just leave the spring on the carb and use a string to pull it open. It uses a bit more current to pull it open and it uses about 50MA to keep it open but I find my control is a bit more precise.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

interesting.  I checked the TF instructions and they also say to use no conductive material.  Reminds me of the A&P test I took in 1985.  I had worked nothing but heavy iron for 7 years and yet the test had dope and fabric repairs on it.  31 years in maintenance and I never saw a fabric a/c up close.

dadragon

I have been useing fiberglass push rods and PCM receivers and have had O problems on any of the gassers.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Steve,

Please put this subject to rest by posting the response you get from your RC manufacturer. Thanks, Dan

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

If you have a relevant question like this, who's answer/opinion will have more merit? The manf., who may not have visited the issue recently, or a few hundred guys out flying every evening?

Take the answer you choose, and run with it. I doubt seriously you'll have an issue?

acerc

Lets see, every piece of lawn equipment- metal to metal, every piece of hand held lawn equipment-cable or rod pull and spring return. Now let's for just a moment say any metal to metal will cause RFI, now lets say for that same minute that every piece of that engine is metal rubbing metal, if metal to metal caused interference then every moving part of that engine, ring to wall, ring to piston, rod to piston, rod to crank, and all the bearings or bushing in between, man that is a lot of metal to metal !!!!!!! Hmmmmmm?????

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

The last 2 posts gave me a little chuckle. First off, unless something is in the process of failing there is no metal to metal contact within an engine. Only exception I can think of might be the ring during the first few runs on a brand new engine when the high spots are being polished off. otherwise all moving parts have a thin film of oil.

Yes there is no substatute for experience is there Mr. Hicks? Maybe unless it goes against your opinion LOL

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Not sure where you're coming from (experience?), but my point best taken as there's no point in arguing if you're both right? It's recognizing there are different ways of doing something, and that you're way isn't necessarily the only way?

acerc

Ahhhh come on ahicks, you know there is only one way. I personally try to take advantage of every means to not create a problem. And the best method is don't do a second time what didn't work the first time.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

i had already concluded that i would isolate whatever pushrod i chose from the throttle.  the servo arm is isolation enough at the servo end.  i just really wanted to know about cable vs solid pushrod.  how is a cable installed in order to give you adequate tension and yet still be flexible enough to bend around the fuel tank.  going to the hobby shop tomorrow and gonna look to see what options they have.  no use asking anyone there.  they have never had any answers.  but they do know what they have in stock in quantity.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Steve. I for one make every attempt to use a solid pushrod. This all depends on the model of course. I have never thought about just using a pull cable to advance the throttle and using the spring to bring it back. kinda like that idea. Here is a pic of what I try to do.

acerc

Steve if you buy the coated cable like what is sold as a pull-pull system it will operate in the plastic tube the same as a flex rod. It would take many a year to wear into the plastic tube. I use the car antennas as a plastic tube, usually around a buck for about a 12" piece. I use a small but somewhat strong spring between the servo arm and the cable end. The cable works just as well as a rod or at least I have had no issues to date. Good luck.

acerc

Forgot to add, if you have some fairly sharp turns you can wrap the tube before install with wire (like a clothes hanger) to hold its shape and not flex.

davidhand

You guys had me worried, I only have one gasser it is a Giant Big Stick powered by a DLE 30, I set it up about 2 - 3 yrs ago and had forgotten how I did it. I felt compelled to go out to the garage and see. I found I had used some kind of nylon/carbon linkage. On returning to my study I checked the DLE manual (not the one that came with the engine but a more extensive one that I downloaded) and it clearly states "Be sure to use a non metallic linkage". Just thought I'd pass this on.

Altered1

Why tempt fate?

Do as much as you can to minimize RF noise in your project.  If the non metallic option provides the same force application accuracy and performance and is budgeted roughly the same, why not ? 

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Glitch free METAL gasser pushrods....with nylon ball links on BOTH ends.

Interesting to note such a wide variety of installations and so many not following ANY manufacturer's guidelines, by MANY highly-experienced people who wouldn't do something guaranteed to crash their airplanes - there just aren't that many of us with that much money to throw away.

BTW - not that it means anything - for many, many years, and even in the build manual, Quique Somenzini uses a "pull cable", usually Kevlar, tied to the servo arm and the throttle plate, leaving the carburetor return spring connected.  I didn't believe it either until I saw the "how to" outlined in the Yak-54 build manual he wrote.  I'm thinking he likely wouldn't do something with a high likelihood of failure, but that's just a guess.

Manufacturers frequently provide recommendations which are the safeguards dictated by their stop-loss insurance providers.......

rceeski

I have used both solid wire and cable I prefer cable beause of viberation, I hate clevises. so I use ball links which are not the best, so I try to use Ball link swievels witch I find to be a pain in the butt. Between the two there is no metal to metal contact. I am a simple guy my friend said to me once you just run stuff however it works best and you don'nt worry about were you run you wires next torods andcables, you let you're wires just lay around and you never seem to have problems like other guys. yep the more fancy you get the more failsafe redundent crap you put in The more chances of stuff going wrong. And I hate wheel Pants Look great but they never last.

JRgraham

My Feedback: (1)

Iknow you know your stuff acerc, but how can you compare lawn equipment's mechanics in this kind of discussion.. unless you use a remote control on your mower and edgers?? There are no receivers in those things, so Ido not think it really compares. Otherwise, your right on! lol

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Please tell me you don't actually think there is metal to meatal contact within an engine?

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

If your spark plug cap comes loose or the ignition has an internal short and grounds out it can cause interference. Doesnt matter what brand or frequency protocal you are using. If you use metal pushrods it can amplify a problem as it can bring the noise closer to the servo and then it has a nice transmission path into the receiver. If you use the same battery to power both the ignition and reciever, the common ground can make it worse.. Lots of guys use all metal pushrods and havent had problems. Pay your money take your chances.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Bingo, works like a champ.