acerc

LOL!!! Sometimes it's just tooooooooo easy to stir the pot. The only fail safe anything is the lack of use. The only opinion that has value is the one you give value to. And all of us whom has been at this for very long know that there are 100-1 opinions that are bogus and for the unknowing there is no way to distinguish between the two. Yes I agree that metal to metal can, possibly, and maybe, cause a problem, I don't know for a fact one way or the other because I have never hooked it up metal to metal. But that's only because I like the swivel ball links on the carb and choke. Do what makes you happy. Do what makes you comfortable. Use your own best judgement and if something does not work don't do it again.

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

If there is no metal to metal contact at all, then an engine would never wear out??

I have always used metal pushrods with nylon clevis's or ball links and had no problems. Maybe these days carbon pushrods might be the go.

acerc

And by the way, YES there is metal to metal. Lets take the internal supposedly oil lined parts out of the equation. There are still parts that are metal to metal, the throttle butterfly and mount, the choke butterfly and mount, the spring for the throttle, and none of those parts have a buffer between them. And the throttle even has the opportunity to vibrate that's why the spring is also used as a shim.

JRgraham

My Feedback: (1)

Well.. in all the years Ive been doing this, I have never seen any proof that a metal throttle setup was any cause to wreck.. only the occasional speculations. Most of the avoidance of the metal rod setup has only ever been speculation, and not used 'just in case its true' kinda deal.

Its common scence that if your worried about it, go with something else.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I wish rcu had a like button. so much of what you guys have said would get that little mouse click.

btw, i bought the cable. have yet to install it.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

It sorta does....on each post, on the right bottom of each message is a "Rate Post" button...that increases (or doesn't) the posters' "Score" that shows in their profile under their avatar.

raptureboy

Make sure you use a CM-6 plug and Amsoil at 100:1 and tear down your new engine and rebuild with Bowman rings and don't step on the crack or you might have an engine explode and be sure you absolutely use a JRradio. Ah... you better just sell it all now before you crash it. Sorry I guess I'm bored today at work. 4-40 rod with bolt on ball links and no issues for years. RCU is like a box of chocolates

acerc

Ohhhhhh we know what were gonna get, 200 answers saying the same thing, or not. I, like most long timers, have done it just about everyway there is and have had no issue that was not self induced. Just today I was setting up a servo on throttle for the Valach to go on the test stand. And I could not get the bloody servo to work beyond half throttle, the servo just would not move. After about two hours cussing and calling tech support (after all it is a new Rx) and getting ready to pack it up and ship to get serviced, the Tx that is. I was sittin here starring at my computer screen and it hit me. Through all the searchin and checkin of every program in this bloody radio I payed no mind to the Idle Down screen which was active and kept the throttle below half. Why that was on is beyond me. New rx, new model, same ole jack wagon at the controls.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I would agree that the carbs are subject to wear via vibration. I have in fact worn out a couple Walbro carbs and in one of my posts I beleive I was quite clear about refering to the internal parts of the engine. Any metal to metal contact within the engine is going to be a catastrophic failure is a short amout of time. What causes 99% of the wear in an engine is what gets ingested through the carb. Dust dirt and such.

mvallyman

My Feedback: (32)

Nyrod or any plastic changes too much with temperature. Use 1/16 carbon fiber rod, epoxy dubro ball links onto ends.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

wow.  Looks like another rain soaked weekend here in North Alabama.  I might just get that throttle installed.  Since I CANT FLY.  

acerc

That post was in regards to RF noise worry from metal to metal. But yes they do wear out eventually. As for the dirt and such that is what air filters are for. I make my own. My only point in joining this topic was simply to say I don't think a metal clevis on the carb would cause any problem with a radio. With that said I do not use metal to metal. Mostly because of the wear factor. Steve I'm with you on the getting a soaking. I have been trying for a week to get some work done at our field. In between showers is a slow way to go.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

There are two sources of RF noise to worry about if you are on 27mhz or 72mhz.
If you have a long metal rod that in intermittently connected to a lag\rge metal mass the rod will pick up energy from the electrostatic field it is passing thru. That energy will be intermittently grounded out at the metal mass by means of a spark.This is what causes the RF noise.2.4 ghz is immune because it is very easy to filter out at tha frequency.
It will be a problem on 27 or 72 but you can avoid it by putting a plastic insulator between the rod and the engine.
Metal to metal contacts within the engine do not cause a problem because they are shielded from electrostatic energy by the metal case.
Its the same thing as that spark you get when you touch metal after crossing a room in a dry air.
The other problem claimed by others is caused by RF from the ignition coil traveling down the rod from the engine to the servo. Even if you have a metal arm and metal gears there is one plastic gear in the servo that would stop it. The RF can only get to the receiver via the antenna. For that the rod would have to absorb the RF then radiate it. In order for the rod to do that it would have to resonate at the frequency you are using. For resonating the rod would have be an exact multiple of a 1/4 of the wavelength you are using. For 72 that is the length of your transmitter antenna. For 2.4 it could be a problem but 2.4 has other ways to avoid it

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I installed a cable.  Isolated at each end.  I like the smooth movement.  I havent run the engine yet but based on the experiances I have read here, I anticipate no electrical interferance problems.  Thanks everyone for your input.