daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I just figured out my setup from experience with my 2 other electrics and other planes at the club. The electric setups are easy to me. I know nothing about the gas and nitro. The electric I ordered has the same power ratio as a.60 glow so that should be more than enough. All I need to finish is the servos. I was thinking maybe hi tech sport st47 or futaba 3003. What do you think? I'm going to put my bush wheels on for first several flights then later I'll try it with the floats. The battery may be a good thing so when I swap from wheels to floats I can shift the battery around if I need to adjust my CG.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Heres the Turnigy motor I ordered.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

The motor is a Turnigy G60 Brushless Outrunner 400kv

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

What about the Saito 14 cc gasser?

dadragon

I also had a goldberg 76" on floats witha saito 65 4 stroke and it just rite for that size and weight without being nose heavy

do335a

This is the voice of experience speaking, with the benefit of having built, rebuilt and flown about 6 different size and make Cubs.

First off, if you insist on gas, since you have that fixation as many people seem to these days, as though it's the be all end all, get a larger plane. A 70" span Cub is not suitable. I built and flew both the full span (about 72") and clipped wing Sig (about 56" span) 1/6 size Cubs. In each case, I used a G-Mark 2 cylinder .30 glow engine. That puts out about as much power as a strong .15 to .20 single cylinder engine. Power was adequate for scale like flying.

I had purchased a Sig 1/5 size clipped wing kit for an OS 46AX. That would be overpowered. I had a GP 80" span about 1/5 size with an OS FS 70 4 stroke. Again, more than adequate power. I cut the wing in two and made it clipped, to about a 56" span. With that OS four stroke 70, it had way, way more than enough power. It was a beautiful, snappy, great flyer for certain. I wanted a bigger plane again.

I've flown a GP 80" ARF on floats with an OS FP60. Grossly overpowered.

I built and flew a Sig 1/4 size clipped wing on both wheels and floats with an OS 1.08 FSR 2 stroke engine. It was the largest available 2 stroke glow single cylinder engine at the time. Other guys were later installing the lower powered OS FT 120 Gemini twin cylinder engine on the full span version. They had more than enough power.

With the OS 1.08, on floats, you could hold full up elevator and hit full power for an instantaneous, no take off run lift off run right out of the water.

Your DLE would fit that size plane plane well, be more than adequate power and you'd not have an issue going from wheels to floats. The balance does not change when you go from one configuration to the other. You just swap the wheels for floats or floats for wheels and have at it.

Also, with none of those Cubs was there ever a big oily mess to clean up. They all had the exhaust dump out the bottom of the cowl. I've also had lots of gassers. Anyone who thinks that there is never anything to clean on those is mistaken. They get oily and dirty too.

The 1/4 size Sig clipped wing Cub also flew the best of the lot and had the tamest ground handling, which is to say that it was very gentle in take off run, landing run and roll out. Taxiing was also well mannered.

You want the least mess, best handling version? Go at least 1/4 size, clipped wing and stuff in your gasser. It will fit. Balance will not be an issue and you can stick on floats with no problems. While not a 3D monster, it will also give you exciting flights if you are so inclined.

Mind you, if I do another, it will be the Sig 1/4 size, clipped wing with either my OS 1.20AX or preferably an OS 1.60FX 2 stroke engine. Least complicated and greatest power to weight available for the engine size. And with the Pitts style muffler, no oily mess to be concerned about either. Cost of fuel? That's the least of your concerns. Not even an issue.

Whichever way you go, enjoy your project. Nothing flies like a Cub!

thebest_102

My Feedback: (6)

Why are you putting twice the recommended electric motor on this plane? I feel you are making a very expensive mistake in this You are running 2x the battery to turn 2x the motor on a plane. As for Prop I run a turnigy 60 on a pulse 60 and it has a 16 inch prop. I do not think you will get a big enough prop on that cub to get efficient use of the set up. Am I crazy for thinking that the plane was designed for a 32 and should have a 32. That 6 cell will be heavy and your cub will most likely fly bad with that much weight. Just my impression someone please stop me if I have miss spoken. You may think that people are poo pooing on your fun but really you seem to need some guidance in your decisions.

oliveDrab

Yes - that 6 cell will be heavy. Better to go 4 cell as recommended, 5 cell maximum if you insist. Having said that..........I've been using 6 cell Lipo's in my clipped wing 4*60 and it really screams - so much fun, but it's a real handful to takeoff. I also use 6 cell Lipo's in my SIG King Kobra's and they fly well but when building them I always have to be cautious about being overweight. I find myself trying to shave weight off the plane just so I can have my big ***** 6 cell Lipo. Maybe better to shave weight AND use a 5 cell instead of 6 cell.

A 6 cell Lipo is probably too heavy for your cub. It can be done but............

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

I just have to chime in on this point. While I don't disagree with most of John's post regarding potential issues with this conversion; the Ignition system on the 10cc Evolution engine is much, much smaller than that rc Excel ignition system that is being pointed out the photo. I was just at the LHS today and checking it out for a future build, its very small, I would have no problem mounting that system in any plane that is intended for a .60 glow 2-stroke, which is the approximate equivalent of the 10cc Evolution. Also, the ignition wire is about 2/3 the size, and the spark plug is about 1/4 the size of a standard gasser plug.

Dave

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you Dave I stand corrected on the physical size of the ignition system on that particular engine and I have not seen one yet in person but The whole point here that many folks are ignoring is the fact that the subject airplane is not even remotely close to a "an airplane intended for 60 glow two stroke" That little electric cub is indeed a horrible choice to try to stuff any spark ignition gasser into.

It's possibly worse to suggest it's anything but simply because of the inexperience of the OP and not an experienced modeler as you are Dave.

Hawk131

At least you will have a chance with the electric motor, its a little big but go with 5 cell to keep the weight down. I wouldn't go full power on take off until you get airborne, the torque will be tough.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I have both 5s and 6s batteries on hand and I'll probably try both. I know its gonna be a bit over powered and I plan on dialing my throttle back some through my tx mix.

thebest_102

My Feedback: (6)

I still contend that those batteries will be heavy and cause at best a high wing loading (poor flying)and at worse a so heavily loaded aircraft that it just won't fly. You posted this in the beginner's section and asked for advice it has been given and almost all seems to agree. The next best thing I can suggest is take a video camera and get this on film. If I am wrong and the plane flys great I will buy you a coke if not then at least some good pilots might spot an error and advice on what to try next time. I myself am not smarter than the people that design the aircraft I fly so if they recommend a set-up I stay pretty close to it after first flights I get a feel for what I may change or not. For motor prop combos I go to a safe area and run things up with small setups and then add more volts/prop/whatever to get the amp draw I am looking for about 75% of what the lowest rated item says.

jester_s1

Dial your throttle back with your TX mix? Why would you do that? Just pull back on the stick. As others have said, you are still trying to overpowering this plane. With a projected weight of 6 pounds, 600 watts will be plenty to fly it as it was built to be flown. 450 would be adequate, but you'd likely be at full throttle a lot. That Turnigy is a 1000 watt motor with 6 pounds as the recommended minimum plane. So you'd use that motor in a 6 pound plane that you want to make into an absolute rocket. You're going to be stuffing extra weight in your plane which will at least make takeoffs and landings harder and you're going to turn too much prop so you're going to have a tough time handling the torque. And you can't just go down to the right size prop because the motor Kv rating is too low. I know you've spent a lot of money already, but you still don't have the right equipment. You've spent your money without learning what you needed, which is an expensive way to learn. If you go ahead with what you have, you're not likely to have a good experience with this plane.

Hossfly

OK BIG DADDY Rabit: Here is the final way to go: Forget all the experts above such as JohnB, Ken, and especially this jester_s1 fellow who seems to me to be one of the best informed RCers that I have ever read. Not only does he know all his ways, but he can explain other ways and provide excellent reasons about most any way.
Now d r you have all the pie-in-the-sky that anyone could ever ask for. Man you have it figured to the max.

Now let me tell you a story. Once upon a time there was this fellow that had a lot of aeronautical "learning". He had many trophies in CL Precision Aerobatics and a number of Free-Flight events. Well, heck, he done knowed it all. After all he had done that aviation thing big time, currently then in a UAL 727 after military T-29, T-37, T-33, B-47, T-38, F-89, C-123, Lear 23, and some light airplanes. Man, he don't need no stinkin' help, NO Siree! Any man that can light those burners and get to 41,000 ft in 4 minutes had no problem with toy airplanes. Right?

So he built a German kit called a "Mufti" much like a "Stick" in the U.S., but a tad more leaning to a Pattern of the day. So out he goes and finds an open place and proceeds to delight the Skies. Guess what the sky said, "Mufti Stick, You ain't trained to live up here with us and behold after much UNCONTROLLED hole-boering around the skies, Mufti made one more hole and almost became a kit again, but much uglier. [:@] So this fine aviator snuck away and rebuilt old Mufti and went for help. No Buddy Cords back thern, but after some Grab-the - Transmitter time, about 3 flights, a much more timid aviator went solo and has done so for many more years. I am told that even to this day he is very careful about his flying and takes NOTHING for granted.

So my advice to you is to go out and display your great skills. Then just maybe you might think that all this information provided to you was not just a bunch of nothing.
This forum will probably be here and you can review it if you should think there is a need. Ya'll be good out there!

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I have a G46-670-KV 740 Watt motor that may work better. As far as spending the money on all these items I don't mind it that much as along as I'm enjoying my hobby not to mention it's nice when you need a part later on and you can just go over to a shelf or drawer and get it. My hobby for the last 20 years has been O scale trains and since I got bit with the rc bug I've been selling off my train collection and that should be enough to fund my rc addiction for a long time. This is turning out to be a good learning curve.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Hossfly, Your point is well taken. We all have to go through the learning curve and that's what I'm doing now. I've run out of the road more than once and Jester has always steered me right. He's been there with me from the very start back when I first started month's ago and I thank him for that. I like the stories you tell about ill fated flyers. I'm waiting for you to tell a story about the new guy who built a cub (with help from jester of course) and it flew like a dream.

jester_s1

I have little doubt that's exactly what will happen Daddyrabbit. You're willing to ask questions and you're willing to listen. None of us are always right about everything, but the general consensus rarely will let you down.

ARUP

FWIW- I plan on flying a SIG Cub with an O.S. four stroke 26. How's that for being on the opposite end of the power curve? lol

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

The cub came yesterday and the servos came today. Still waiting on the esc and motor. The covering on one wing has a couple of small wrinkles. Do I need to tighten the covering up before I start on the plane or after I build it?

Hawk131

You can do it any time, even when you get them out, but they will do it all over once they get in the sun.

jester_s1

Set it out in the sun for a couple of hours before you reshrink it. Also, use the minimum heat that will get the job done. That will usually allow you one more reshrink job before you have to recover because of sagging.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Will do. The covering job on this plane is beautiful down to the last seam. I was also surprised when I opened the box and saw a full printed manual laying on top of the wings.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I got started building the cub today. It's a learning experience for sure. I got the wings ready for install,elevator done and hooked up and now I'm finishing up the rudder. I worked on it all day where as most of you guy's here could have done what I did today in an hour or so. If I ever figure out how to post pics I'll post some on my progress.

For future reference is there anything I can use besides CA to glue the hinges? I've got all the hinges done but next time I would like to have a little more cure time when glueing hinges. That CA grabs fast and leaves little time to make adjustments.

Hawk131

When you do hinges with CA you put the surfaces together tight and wick the CA in the gap between the surfaces. I usually put more than recommended, I do it on both sides of the hinge.