vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I use an incidence meter on my BUSA planes, and yes, 1 degree will not matter much. These things never really trim out anyway, you have to make corrections constantly while flying.

As for covering, I like the full scale Dacron from aircraft spruce. 5' by 3' roll is $3.20. That is on a 5' roll, very good yield there. I bought 30', should be enough for a couple of 1/4 scale tripes.

Yes, you can run the G62 without a kill switch. The switch just grounds the magneto to stop the spark. You will have now way to stop the spark to turn it off, but you can close the throttle all the way to do that.

TXAG96

My Feedback: (1)

All the painting is done with Behr latex from home depot. The little sample pots are great. The lettering and rondels are all apinted and done with vinyl paint stencils. I have a friend at work whos wife runs a sign shop and has a vinyl cutter. I drew the graphics stuff in TurboCad and then gave her the file to cut. In the past I have used getstencils.com. They do a great job as well.

do335a

True.

However, to be IMAA legal, and as a matter of safety, you need a positive way to kill ignition - that means a kill switch. You may get away without it a million and one times. It's just that one time when you won't that you'll regret it. Relying on throttle is not a 100% guarantee. Not a great idea.

In my case, it's redundant. Can kill via the radio or physically at the plane.

Strongly suggest you use an ignition kill switch.

valleyk

Some more photo's. Getting the wing incidence right was the most difficult part of the build. Fokker planes are so much easier to build in my opinon.

Teus

Thats a really nice Pup Valleyk


I am busy with a workover of an 15 year old Pup right now. Already done the Vickers modified from theMRkit, and just finishedre-engineering thelanding gear to functional.

But the next project will be the wings. So my questions for you Pup owners is: What dihedral is normal used at this Busa Pup? I think it should be around 2 deg.?

valleyk

Thanks. I use 3 degrees which is what the real pup had. Try to keep wing incidence 0 to +1 for both top and bottom wings. Beware of wash out and adjust outer wing struts length and wing cable tension to remove wash out.

warbirdmustang

My Feedback: (21)

Subscribed! I have a kit I plan to build soon, along with my guns, wheels, engine and covering. I can't wait!

crashwilson

Hello all you Sopwith Pup builders,I'am at the landing gear stage of my build, and I like some of the gear that I see posted on the forum.I'am going with the nice spoke wheels but I would like to beef up the gear more than what the Balsa kit has.My question is would anybody that has made there gear better be able to post some closeup pictures and would'nt mind if I copy they way you did it?I just finished mounting the center section of the upper wing, and I taxed my brain to the limit with that. If I can get this gear thing under control I have everything else put together so its a matter of finishing touchs so I can start to cover it. Thanks alot and you guys have been so much help during this build. Crash!!!

Teus

Crash,

HERE you can find photos of my 1/3rd scale gear mod.

HERE you can find photos of my 1/4 scale gear mod.

valleyk

I don't like the wire look on the busa gear. Looks too skinny and i don't like putting wood over it either. I ordered aluminum struts from GTM models and JB welded them together. Its really strong.

Teus

I used this time the easy way to cover the wire and make look it like covered with wood. I used plastic poster strips in the shape like the example photo.

You can slip them over the wire. But when they stay a little open because the wire is thicker than the inner diameter, just heat the strip laying flat on the table careful with a heatgun until the plastic become flexible. And then just close the gap with by pushing a long steel ruler untill the plastic is cooled down. And when finished wrap the strip with cover material

The example below is 12mm but you can find them in different sizes.

valleyk

First time I took her out.

valleyk

Some more.

valleyk

I had to post this. Seems to me that one must pay good attention to rigging on this bird. Any advice on good mods to make to keep wings from comming off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kui3YGaINh0

foodstick

Absolute KILLER video, some cussing, but for a good reason I think !
I wondered when I posted on my 1/3 Pup thread if it would wake up the other Pup threads, it usually does !

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

I have had 2 big pups over the years - the rigging has to be correct because it definitely holds the wings on. The one modification that I recommend is to move the attach point for the flying wires from the top of the wing struts up into the wing. The struts would attach onto the tangs which protrude from the wing just like the plans show.

I added an extra thickness of 1/8" a/c plywood (this holds a blind nut) to the outside of the rib........then made a longer fitting at the top of the flying wire (long enough to reach up into the wing).

As designed, the flying wires attach to the tangs which protrude from the bottom of the top wings - the point at which the flying wire attaches is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch below the wing surface. Under heavy flying loads, this tang can and does sometimes bend inward which slackens the flying wires enough for the lower wing to pull out of its secure location tightly against the fuselage. In my case the front lower wing dowel came out of the hole in the fuselage and lodged at the top of the wing root cut out on the fuselage. This allowed the leading edge of both wings on that side to raise up an inch or more - I flew it down to a safe landing, but it was a chore.

In the case of the pup in the video, I suspect the wings came loose the same way as mine did, but dislodged completely from the side of the fuselage. He did a great job of staying with the plane and bringing it down safely.

My 2 cents worth.........

Art

Eindecker_pilot

Art's recommended change to the flying wire attachment works well and is easy to do, I did it on my pup. As added insurance (not a substitute) one can tie the lower wings together with a simple wire or strap underneath the fuselage to keep the dowels from pulling out of the fuselage.

Greg

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Do large glow engines also require kill switchs?

valleyk

Ok done that RcArt. But what about the flying wires. I bought busa 1/3 scale flying wires and crimps. Typically I always used regular pliers to crush crimp and then use the cutting portion of the pliers to crease the crimp so cable does not slide out. Also use JB weld to secure the crimp to wire as extra belt and suspenders. Is this ok?

redball8

My Feedback: (128)

Can't kill the glow with a switch ...

abufletcher

Outstanding looking model!!! Almost a shame to paint it!!!

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I know...so why does a gasser have to have a switch and a glow the same size can't have one? I say discrimination!

warbirdmustang

My Feedback: (21)

It's because the gas engine has an electrical ignition and the glow engine doesn't. You may want to read up on them prior to operating so you have a clear understanding of what's going on.

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

I have seen folks use pliers and dikes (diagonal cutters) to secure the crimps on flying wires.......that does the same thing as the special crimper - the difference being the crimper is a positive correct pressure crimp every time and the pliers/cutter route can vary each time it is used.

To answer your question, yes......you should be ok with your method.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

You mean clearer than the 10-12 engines that I currently run? I assume the rule that a gasser has to have an electronic kill switch is for safety reasons. Why then is an equally large glow engine allowed? Obviously the glow engine is a safety concern since it can't be "killed" other than by reducing the throttle. I don't see the logic.