Fili

Hey All, Just popping in to say "Hey" and posts a new pick of my Corsair. She's still ripping it up! Here's a pic from the "Valley of the giants" in Westport NY last weekend! Great to see the brotherhood growing!!

Buckmeister

I have to get back to building mine. Looking at that picture has my juices flowing. Enjoy!I'm going to ramble on here: I've been re-building a few Junkyard/garbage can planes to relearn how to fly before I fly my Corsair that is a long way from done.. It will be my first Warbird kit from the beginning.I currently have flying 80 " a PT-19 Arf reconstruction plane that I am training my self with. (I have friends guiding me and I can take off and land with few issues other than shaky hands and knees. Also have a 87 inch PT-19 bought this one completed and in perfect working order.Got a 30 year old 84 inch Rearwin Speedster. Turns out that my wifes uncle crashed one in 1943 and his passenger died and he was a little bit off center after that. I have a picture of him with it. Real strange how I can end up with a model of a plane that wasn't mass produced and owned by a relative of the family..Starting to plum a TF Giant P-47 that I bought framed and poorly skinned and control surfaces that had to be removed and rebuilt and re-installed. Just finished re doing skin and glassing it.Now redoing the control surfaces and redoing the hinging. (Might have been easier to start wit a kit).In any event, your plane looks great. In South Florida we mostly build during the summer and start flying again in September.With a fleet of planes that should be ready to go by Mid September, I can get back to the Corsair. I will post some pics and building progress when I can get to it.Hopefully I won't damage the fleet so bad that I spend all my building time fixing them. Seeing your plane ais making me want to drop the P-47, but it's getting close and I really want a real gunfighter Warbird for our flying season. Saving the Corsair for when I have some developed skills flying.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Buck

The 47 is a sweet flying bird, if it is stright as I built one as my secound warbird even with full flaps when you get down in ground effect it can fool you.

I have not had a chance to fly eather one of my birds so far, with some days off maybe the weather will give us a break and a chance to go fly the ony 2 day I have beeable to get out I brook both of my sport fliers, bad throutle management on one, and a tree reached up and stuck its head in the way [&o]


Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

Maidened my Corsair yesterday at the Club Fun Fly event!
Flew great, though I needed about ten clicks of left aileron, maybe too much right thrust? Landing was great using half flaps as there was about a 10 mph headwind.
Though I haven't posted any info before on it I will post some pics tomorrow. (been a serious follower, but no posts).
Mines running a Saito 300 twin with a 24x8 Xoar WW2 prop and just sounds awesome in the air!!!
Full up dry weight is 28lbs., I glassed the fuse, and center third of the wing, solartex on the outer thirds and control surfaces.
Painted with TopFlite Lustercoat Insignia Blue, with flat clear coat.
Robart electric retracts, running fom the RX batt. Which is a 5250mh sub C cell pack. (those electric retracts look SO scale going up and down.
McDaniels glow driver for the twin on a separate 2000 mh pack.
A very detail pilot figure that picked up at Top Gun from "Uncle" Chuck, he advertises on the marketplace. A little pricey at $75, but really worth it, (though I did have to make him a paraplegic, ...
I also bought Uncles scale spinner he advertises, and filled it up with melted lead, so about 9-10 oz. in the spinner. I then needed 18 oz. that I placed over the engine for total add on weight of 27oz. Balanced right on the recommended CG.
I was told it was a "Show Stopper" at the event, and as you know there's nothing like a big Corsair making a low pass!

Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

Okay, a few more details;
Sporting a Tri-color scheme, with combo Bayou Baby and Marine Dream Girl.
I have the exhaust pipes cris-crossed and coming out at the scale locations, looks great!
Used the Fiberglass Specialties cowl with open flaps.
I shaped the wing tips and rudder to match scale outline and shape.
Made the outer wing thirds look like only the scale area is fabric covered.
Changed the flap push rods to external with control horns.
Scale cockpit kit.
Retract tail wheel, also electric.
Side hatch for switches and charge jacks.
More to come...

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Remaking

Con Grats on the maiden of your corsair, its great when there is a new ine in the air. Now pic's


Cheers Bob T
AMA13377 Corsair Brotherhood #5

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

This thread has over 1 million views!

Incredible. Speaks to the success and popularity of this fine kit!

This must be the most viewed thread on RCU, huh?

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

ya its crazy but you have to consider it's been hear sence 2005 maybe one of the mods could tell us what are the biggest/longest threads.

Cheers Bob T

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

One of the longest has to be about the TF GS P-47 with nearly 10,000 posts. Can't imagine digging for information in that thread! Nearly 400 pages. But this one still has way more "views."

Me410

Got four flights in on my TF GS Corsair last weekend, and to my horror, my flutter problem came back.
I only get the flutter in a bit of a dive at full throttle. A sharp eyed member said he saw the flutter in the elevator. I could certainly hear it!

I did the mod talked about a few post back. Added brass tubes to the torque wire in the elevators and secured them very well. Everything feels solid and secure.

The servos I am using are Futaba S3152 digital, nylon gear 87 oz torque. I think these are not up to the job, even though there are two of them?

The previous flutter incident may have pounded some wear into the geartrain, as they have alittle play in the arms now.
So I have removed them and put in Hitec 645 MG servos that I had new.
Will fly these this weekend again and see what happens. If I get flutter again, I have a big problem?

I did not use the supplied metal push rods, but the HD Sullivan 1/4" rods, that seem very stiff and are well secured.

So any thoughts on best servos for this 30 LB beast? I have my eye on some Savox coreless, digital, titanium beauties, at, gulp, 73$ each.

Tom

stevegauth30

In my opinion, the savor are worth every penny. It's a lot of dough though.

Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

Here's some pics. Sorry for the delay in getting them up. 4 more flights since the maiden, flys great, thought she does have the "Corsair waggle" in the air.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I have to laugh when the ARF guys claim there is no wag in flight because its pretty obvious. The only time I notice mine stops wagging is when I pull up slightly to load the stab. I have just changed the wing incidence to see if this helps so I'll report on that if it helps.

Nice builds guys!

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Tom, Can you post a picture of your servo tray. I would like to see how it is setup. There are several things that could cause this. Puting larger and larger servos only hides the problem.

I fly fast and I have built and flown this plane. Although mine did waggle it never fluttered.
Kelly

donnyman

me410

Your flutter problem can be caused by the gap between the stab and elevator being too wide!

seal it with some tape and see if it helps. and also try balancing the elevator.

good luck!

Me410

My elevator flutter came back, even with the Hitec 645 MG servos.I have my G62 rpm at 6500 with a Xoar PJT 22X10 prop, I leaned it out alittle to get this RPM and I realy like the speed and performance.So I need to fix this flutter issue. I do know a few things, like balance the elevators, seal the hinge gap, have very good linkage, servos, mechanical advantage, etc.Not sure I can achieve that with the stock set up?ThunderBolt47, I have attached pics of the servo set up, any help you can give would be great, I like to fly fast too.Donnyman, attached is a pic of my hingeline, it is pretty tight and has light ply shrouds top and bottem to hide the hinge line and give a more scale look, I would not think my problem is there?I also put a few lead fishing weights in the counter balance tabs of the elevator, but unable to do an exact balance as the hidden linkage cannot be undone, without surgery that is.If no better ideas come up, I will remove and rebuild the elevators lighter. Install large control horns and install high quality servos in the fuse sides and drive the elevators with 440 steel rod.O, and also exact balance the new lighter elevators and seal the hinge line.Tom

Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

I've Never Had Any Luck With Glodenrods on elevators. use a metal rod in the same sleeve.

nbaror

Tom, sorry to break your hart like this, but the Golden Rods (nylon pushrods) are really not up for the task in this size bird. I never like tis hidden linkages set up and made a completely removeable piece in the bottom rear of my fuse this probably going to be a painful fix but one you'll have to make if you want this plane to fly properly es

donnyman

ME410

You are looking good in many ways ...... but I agree the golden rod isn't the best candidate for elevator pushrod, especially if it isn't supported every few inches. I prefer 1/4" dowel supported in the center. I had a complete loss of elevator control on a b-25 due to plastic pushrods and haven't used them since.

If the suggestions don't solve your problems I am out of Ideas...... If you find a solution do post it, it is vital info.

DONNY

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Me410

Well I have been away trying to learn somthing new, so I have not posted of late.

on the golden rod even if they have great support every outher blkd your trims will change with the heat of the day, and for that I would not use them in this type of bird.

4-40 pushrods are great, and also require special support but only at the point of flex/bend and both ends, and use captive ball links not cleves's.

I re thread the 2-56 ball link plactic to 4-40 and in 20 years I have never had one fail while flying

If you are going to make a change, Then I would go for c/f 3/16 or 5/32 rods and 4-40 end's twisted in at least 1inch and ca'd, captive ball links at the servos and in the tail they will fit in the tail cone, you will have to do some hack and wack to get there but will not compermise the structure

hope this helps

Cheers Bob T

If you stay with the plastic fitting on the std. wire horn, be sure you have then set and then ca them to the threads

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

@Remaking

How did you get the 300T to fit in the cowl?
I have the same twin carb engine and considered installing it but I felt it would have to stick out of the cowl so I went with the DLE 55RA.
Is your engine stock with the on board glow? Im considering the CH Ignition for mine if I use it.
Any info and pics would be much appreciated.

On the wag issue... I added wing saddle foam tape to my ARF to help tweak the fit of the wing to the fuse. The stock fitment sucked the wing into the fuse so effectively increasing negative incidence. Adding the thin foam tape realigned the wing belly to the fuse flush and increased the wing incidence by lowering the trailing edge about 1/8in. After the test flight the "wag" was noticeably less but not totally gone.
So for what its worth for those having a wag issue maybe take a look at adjusting the wing and trying it.

Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

@ Chris
The 300T Fits No Problem Within The Cowl, And i Have a Glow Driver.
I'm Using The Fiberglass Specialty Cowl, but It Also Fits In The Stock Cowl.
i Do Have Foam Tape On The Wing Saddle, But Will Look At Adjusting The Incidence.
Thanks.

Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

Any recommendations on what the wing to stab incidence measurement should be?

I've noticed that Corsairs seem to fly best with their tail high, so I'm thinking that a degree or two of positive incidence might cure the waggle, and make it fly and look like a Corsair should. Maybe some shims under the rear of the wing?

Any opinions appreciated!

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

From my notes the wing is 2 degrees positive to the thrust line at the root, and the stab is 21/2 positive. But if you have not gone to far in your build I would check with Chad Vick. also from my notes I see ware my bird has only 1 degree in the wing and 2 in the stabas I had the wing sadles nearly completed be for I checked mine, got to far ahead of my self.

Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

I can't believe that this thread has had no activity in over a month.


George
CORSAIR Brotherhood #1