karl hibbs

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Hi Kirk, have you been flying yours much? I have not been to Whidbey since I test flew Johns vampire so I have not been keeping up on what you guys have been doing. is it still a hassle to go flying there. I didn't even rejoin the club because of it.

Karl

jzuniga

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Nice Kirk...;-)

Z

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Thanks Sean and Z. 

Karl, I haven't flown the Hunter since Best in The West.  Are you flying jets closer to your home?

Kirk

Jamie C

What turbine are you planning to fit?

karl hibbs

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Kirk , I haven't for awhile but will soon.

Karl

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

I'll be using a Jetcat Titan. A few more pounds of thrust than the P-140 but after flying the large EDFs for many years, I've developed good throttle control habits.Kirk

Jamie C

No shortage of power there! i swapped out my 140 for a 90 RXI as i felt the 140 was being wasted sat in the Hunter, it is now back in the Bandit. The 90 is performing far better than i was expecting it to.

extra 300

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Kirk,

result of your weathering is outstanding. Would you care to share your method.

Thanks in advance,

Regards,
Dany

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Thanks Dany.

I use dry paint pigment to simulate weathering. I get the dry paint pigment from here: http://www.danielsmith.com/ (RCU is reformatting the URL so click on the link and search for "dry pigment")

Tonight I'll be working on the upper surface of the left wing. I'll take photos and describe the technique I use.

Kirk

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

In order not to sidetrack this thread I started a new thread on the technique I use to apply weathering. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11567313/tm.htm

sskianpour

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...

robertocasti10

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just bought one have not flown it.

rcjets_63

My Feedback: (4)

I finally got around to finishing off the Hunter I purchased a couple of years ago. I really didn't like the external linkages (particularly for the rudder as it was SO visible) so I set to work doing internal linkages. The flaps and ailerons were easy to do, the rudder was a bit harder, and the elevators were a lot of work. Here's how it is done if you want to try it yourself.

Flaps: This is close to the method used on the BVM Bandit. The servo is mounted in the wing with the metal servo arm towards the top of the wing. The control horn is glued into the top surface of the flap and a slot is cut into the recess in the wing to receive the control horn. The linkage runs in the wing. More photos/details are in post #745 on page 30.

Ailerons: The control horn is cut down so that it extends about a 1/2" below the lower skin of the aileron. The servo is mounted into the wing with the servo arm (at neutral) angled towards the top skin and aft. An angled hole is drilled through the lower wingskin. The slot in the servo cover is filled in and the servo cover is repainted. I used PPG Omni single stage paint for the greys/green camo. Red/white/blue paint for plastic models were used to repaint the British roundal on the servo cover.

Rudder: This uses the method for the Tamjets F-16 rudder. The DS3491 servo is mounted in the fairing below the rudder and the the servo arm (which is oriented fore/aft at neutral) is slotted 1/8" wide x 1/2" long wide along its centerline. A pin protrudes from the bottom of the rudder and engages in the slot in the servo arm. To make the rudder easy to remove, a length of 1/16" music wire acts as the pin for all three rudder hinges and is routed through a Nyrod installed in the leading edge of the rudder.

Elevators: These were tough as there isn't a lot of room and you have to build up the leading edge of the elevators and the trailing edge of the stab because of the factory installed live hinge. The linkage is done like a BVM classic Bandit with a torque rod and ball link. One servo is mounted in a cutout in the bottom of the stab and the other is mounted (at an angle) on the top of the stab. The original pockets/covers in the stab are glassed over to restore the strength in the skin. A music wire hinge pin running through a Nyrod in the elevator leading edge allows for easy removal of the elevator from the stab. A 0.005 x 5/8" wide strip of polyply is glued to the stab lower trailing edge to close the gap from the live hinge. The fin is routed out to make room for the pushrod/servo on the top of the stab. The sub-fin in the fuselage below the stab is routered out as well and reinforcement sub-former added to restore the strength.

Rudder: standard setup vs internal linkage:


Flaps/Ailerons: standard vs internal


Elevators: standard linkage vs internal (one elevator done, other in progress)


Some pics of how the H-stab fits into the fuselage and rudder:


Regards,

Jim

rcjets_63

My Feedback: (4)

Here are some other pics of the plane showing the finished paint and weathering (using the dry pigment method). To service the jet, I installed a bezeled panel at the front of the hatch cutout.

And then, with all that work done, and the jet ready to fly, I sold the plane to Shaz Kianpour. I'm sure he'll enjoy flying it around the Denver area.

Regards,

Jim

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Really great work Jim!

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

Jim,

Thanks for posting this! I think on my Mick Reeves version, the elevator and flap linkages are internal, but I'm not sure about the rudder and aileron - so I'll use your methods...

I'm doing the Swedish Display scheme, so mine won't need to be quite as dirty.

Bob

rcjets_63

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Kris! I had a lot of fun figuring it all out (particularly the elevators) and I think it makes the plane look a lot better. I hope Shaz enjoys it.

Bob, the Ripmax ailerons are hinged in the centerline so I pretty much had to do the external control horn to get the leverage (though the horn is cut down). The full scale Hunter has ailerons that are hinged quite close to the top surface. If your model has hinges biased towards the top, you can likely use a horn that barely protrudes from the bottom of the aileron such that the slot in the wing is very close to the wing/aileron split. This will be very much like the BVM 80" Sabre aileron connection and, I think, the BVM F-100. You might want to look at those models as a reference.

Regards,

Jim

mr_matt

My Feedback: (10)

Jim that elevator linkage is very sanitary, very slick!

Boy that stock rudder linkage is hideous!

Worzey

Sorry to wake this thread up.....
This Hunter lands nose heavy, due to the tank configuration. After 8 minutes of flying with my JC Super Eagle, the front tank is still full. Obviously I could increase my flight times to lower the nose weight. Alternatively, has anyone reconfigured the plumbing so the front tanks empties first, then the saddle tanks? Any reasons why this shouldn't be done, especially as the saddle tanks are close to the C of G?

Dave Wilshere

Fly longer ;-)

tp777fo

My Feedback: (28)

Plumv rhe tanks in series. Front feeding first and saddles last. You wont notice the lateral imbalance as it is too close to center of jet.

Worzey

Do you know the capacity of the forward tank Dave, just to give me an idea of how much longer I could fly?

Dave Wilshere

1.8 ltrs!
With a P-120 I can fly 12 minutes and still have fuel left (flying the throttle)

Dave

Worzey

I guess that's the simplest fix.....i'll do the same!!

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

I thought I'd wake this thread up a bit and show my Hunter that I just finished. I decided to change up the scheme a bit, so I had to change the X on the tail to a G, change the tail number, and under wing number. Also added the white wing tips with lightning bolts that were on the scheme I picked. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward install. With my Jet Central Cheetah (31lb) it weighs in at 30.4 lbs with the drop tanks installed. I still have to put fuel in my header tank to balance, but it looks like I'll be real close to the recommended CG and should not have to add any weight.



I added some scale details, including a pitot tube, nomenclature, and a window for the "break to release" hood jettison.



I found a 10" RAF jet pilot on the web that fits decent in the cockpit (same as others have used). I know the ejection seat is quite a bit small, but I dressed it up a bit and used as is.



I didn't want to pull out the cockpit all the time, so I put all of the controls under the rear hatch. I made a carbon fiber panel and added the battery, air, and switch controls. I also extended the connector from my FADEC. Unfortunately I have an older version so I couldn't get the telemetry working with my Futaba radio.

I'm in Iowa, so we'll have to wait until spring breaks to get a test flight in. I'm looking forward to it, and hope to hit some of the warbird events in the area next year with it (Warbirds over Iowa, Owatonna, and Midwest and Classics).