njmheli

Hi Jon.

Have a look at the phot's of my U/C set up...........Hope these will be of help !!!

Kind regards..........Nick (UK)

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

So did you add another hinge to the door flap? mine only came with 2 hinges...My door flap is not warped....I can see how adding another hinge would help.

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Has anyone used the cargo door behind the pilots door for Switches, air fill, air gauge and charge jacks?
I have been working on this and its kinda of a struggle but hopefully it will work out

Staggerflyer

Yes, I did. Unfortunately, no pics. I hinged the door on the bottom, holding it closed with magnets. made a plywood board to fit inside with all my connections for on/off switch, charging connections for radio and on board glow,and air fitting for retracts.

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Has anyone had any issues with the retract tail gear? I have followed the instructions and noticed you need a strong hi torque servo to retract it. The retract horn on mine bent mainly it has no problems with retracting up but extending down is where the issue is. the horn on the retract binds/bends and don't retract down. Am I doing something wrong? or is there something I need to do for easier retracting? here is a photo of the bent horn.

Staggerflyer

Are the door opening tabs working smoothly? I had to bend mine INWARD slightly more at the bends to give a curved surface contact on the doors in order to get them open. That is more than likely where your problem is.

This picture shows what I mean. (The pic is of crash damage, but the door opener tabs are not damaged, they are bent to what was necessary to get doors opening smoothly.)

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

the doors open smooth. that's not the problem. It' when it retracts it wont retract all the way like 3/4 of the way and the wheel is still poking out the door and the servo has it all the way retracted but then you gotta push the wheel up to get it to retract all the way. and then when you go to retract it down it wont retract causing the horn to bend like in the picture.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I have the same issues with the small Robart retract unit I use in my Hellcat which looks very much like what is in the Staggerwing. I can't get my tailwheel to completely retract either simply because there is too much slop in the unit. In the fully retracted position it is still possible to move the wheel up and down probably 1/2" at least. Works great upside down but a soon as you turn it right side up the tailwheel sags down! No amount of fiddling and adjusting of the linkage has solved this issue for me. It is simply a "feature" of this rather inexpensive tail wheel unit. Also, when retracted it is possible to get the down lock arms collapsed so far that it becomes impossible for the servo to overcome them when the time comes to extend the gear. This is simply due to the geometry and no servo with any amount of power will make any difference. Instead you just end up bending or breaking something else as appears has happened in your case. You either have to add a mechanical stop to prevent the arms from collapsing so far or you have to adjust the end-point on the servo so that it stops short of the fully retracted position. That's been my experience anyway, hope it is of some use.

Staggerflyer

Apparently you guys are using a different unit than I did. I used the one specified in the instructions, which had a plastic actuator horn. I did not have any problems with the retract unit itself. I used the separate air ram mounted up by the servos. Never a problem, once I got the doors to open. Up or down. The only problem I had was not enough turn radius/movement.

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

hmmmm....thanks for the info Chad. Ill have to fiddle with it i guess
I am using the same retract stated in the manual.

COL J

Has anyone tried one of the gas engines in one of these?

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

going to be using this from TBM for tail wheel retract
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items...ELRETRACT.html
it works and moves a lot better with out no binding then robarts and is around the same size as well.

52jaws

My Feedback: (65)

Hi Guys....Looking for a complete set of wings for a staggerwing. Damaged set ok too!
Thanks

Free Bird

What you guys think of a 30cc gasser in this model? I picked up an airframe that the owner striped and then lost interest in. any opinions? Thanks!

FB

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

My opinion is that a 30cc gasser would be too much engine for this airframe, but that seems to be the trend. TF recommends 25cc max in 2 and 4 stroke power, (they don't even list gas as a option) so 30cc in gas would be about right because gas power does not produce the same amount of power as 2 and 4 stroke engines. Gas is less power. When I say "too much", I'm talking about the extra shake and rattle that's going to be transferred to the fiberglass fuselage. Not sure if the glass is thick and stiff enough to handle a larger gas engine. It would probably be ok, as I'm sure their are plenty flying with gas power. I would just be concerned about the glass fuselage. My friend has one that he is planning on putting a OS 1.60 twin 4 stroke in, and it has the power of a strong 1.20 4 stroke. Matt Chapman put a OS 1.60fx 2 stroke in his and said it was way overpowered with it. When he flew it, he rarely went over 1/2 power for normal flying. Good luck!

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

I flew my Stagg for years with a Evolution 35cc gasser in it with great results. Never had any problems with parts breakage or vibration problems. Well over 300 flights. My plane was a little on the heavy side (I tend to re-inforce and strengthen areas) and I didn't think it was overpowered.

Free Bird

Thanks for the feedback guys! I'm trying to stay away from the oil mess a 2-stroke makes, so a gasser seems to be the best option other than electric.

FB

Free Bird

rslstft,

A couple of questions about the install of the Evo 33. In the manual the distance from the firewall to the front face of the thrust washer is 6 inches. The Evo 33 with the stock wrap around muffler is approx 8 inches, I see in your pics above that it looks like you used a Bisson muffler. One thing I'm pretty anal about is mufflers sticking out the side of the cowl on a scale ship. Did you use the Bisson to move the engine back to get the proper distance to the front of the cowl? Did you try to use the wrap around muffler? And, did you have to add any nose weight? That Evo engine is pretty large, so I'm thinking adding nose weight should be minimal. I have a Syssa 30cc engine that would probably work, but it's pretty light when compared to other engines. I'm looking forward to your input! Thank you!

FB

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

FB,
I'm not sure of the dimensions of the EVO 33 as they might be a little different from the 35GT (turned into the 40GT a little later on). It LOOKS about the same, but the older 35's didn't have the rear mounting lugs, just the beam mount. Anyway, if I would have used the wrap around muffler, I would have either had to move the engine pretty far forward with the carb sticking out of the cowl, or modified the lower front of the fuselage with a cut-out for the muffler as the fuselage sticks into the cowl quite a bit.
I'm not much for mufflers sticking out either, but I didn't feel like doing all the work to get the wrap around muffler to fit, after all, it is just a fun fly ARF. I also added nose weight, but I don't remember exactly how much now, I think somewhere around 8oz.
One thing I did do, and I'm sure I hear a bunch of negative comments about it, was added a gyro on the rudder. With the narrow gear, it can be quite a handful on takeoff and landing. With the JR370a gyro onboard, I could straddle the centerline of the runway and make a nice straight takeoff (I fly off pavement), while another Stagg at the field would be all over the runway before getting in the air. I can hear everyone saying "Learn how to use the rudder", well, I do know how to and I'll bet they have never flown a Stagg. One of our club members owns a full scale Stagg and he says even that one is a handful on take off and landing.
Even thought it requires your attention while flying, it is one of my favorite planes, so much so that I have a spare one new in the box.

affas

Hi,

I did rip all internal structure and reassembeled all upfront. First ASP 160 but got a nice offer on a OS 160 twin and the combo is outstanding. The light version flies so much better than all other videos I have seen. Larger (heavier) engine and equipment does not make this a better plane.....


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post10769083

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post10773432

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Anyone have a spare cowl for this???

sdcranford

My Feedback: (4)

For anybody that had their gear converted by Down & Locked what tailwheel did they convert for you. The plastic Robart one that is recommended is not able to be converted.

Prop_Washer2

My Feedback: (26)

What would a New in Box TF Staggerwing ARF be worth..??

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

That Robart plastic tailwheel retract is garbage! I went with the miracle all aluminum tail wheel retract TBM offers. its the same size as the robart. I ended up changing the strut on the miracle cause they give you a spring style strut which really don't work all to well.

sdcranford

My Feedback: (4)

What do you use to retract it? Air, servo, or D&L conversion?