Super Skybolt build from Italy
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
I take the chokes off all my 4 strokes and prime them by spinning the engine (GLOW PLUG DISCONNECTED) a few turns with a finger over the exhaust.
#27
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
After a long work ... cut, cut, glue and sand ... cut, cut, glue and sand i had built fin and rudder with hinge and almost i had buit stabilizer and elevator.
1. i had added robart hinge, coupling is good but i must complete sanding
2-3. made with manual folding mechanism for the combined movement of the elevators
4. holes for hinge between stabilizer and elevator, this time I made it before pairing the balsa wood and then drilling (much better idea)
5-6-7-8-9.I modified the assembly with respect to the flight plan by a single cutting
10. Glue parts
11. Elvetor with the top cover and the rear must cut and glue
12. Stabilizer and elevator after a first sand
Also i madehinge's installation of stabilizer and one elevator (still to finish the sanding and coupling). Show you next.
The problem I have encountered is the hardening of the glue (aliphatic) at the edges, the smoothing is more durable than balsa and after a long time is required for precise sanding. The thing that I realized is that you have to clean up any excess after bonding. Still have to do all the sanding curved edges, I think they need several time, it is easy to take off but impossible to put where already removed.
1. i had added robart hinge, coupling is good but i must complete sanding
2-3. made with manual folding mechanism for the combined movement of the elevators
4. holes for hinge between stabilizer and elevator, this time I made it before pairing the balsa wood and then drilling (much better idea)
5-6-7-8-9.I modified the assembly with respect to the flight plan by a single cutting
10. Glue parts
11. Elvetor with the top cover and the rear must cut and glue
12. Stabilizer and elevator after a first sand
Also i madehinge's installation of stabilizer and one elevator (still to finish the sanding and coupling). Show you next.
The problem I have encountered is the hardening of the glue (aliphatic) at the edges, the smoothing is more durable than balsa and after a long time is required for precise sanding. The thing that I realized is that you have to clean up any excess after bonding. Still have to do all the sanding curved edges, I think they need several time, it is easy to take off but impossible to put where already removed.
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
Other steps in the construction, prepared the mechanism with hinges for the elevators now remains to be polished and improve the fit (I'm waiting for arrivals sandpaper from 80 and 150 bar). I started to build the fuselage. The first pieces to be assembled not require service, it is very easy. The end result after bonding is spectacular, it is exciting to see the outline of my plane, great!
1. Stabizer and elevators, i must to sand it andimprove the coupling
2-3. bonding of the fuselage'skin
4. Fuselage's skin and skeleton
5-6. I had glued on one side first and thirdbelly's pieces
7. pre-glue parts, for check coupling
8. drying phase (the best of the build )
9. I check forcuriosity to see the alignment of the parts with laser level
1. Stabizer and elevators, i must to sand it andimprove the coupling
2-3. bonding of the fuselage'skin
4. Fuselage's skin and skeleton
5-6. I had glued on one side first and thirdbelly's pieces
7. pre-glue parts, for check coupling
8. drying phase (the best of the build )
9. I check forcuriosity to see the alignment of the parts with laser level
#29
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
If you have not put the wing bolt plates in make sure you do it when you put the forward formers and firewall in. The instructions don't tell you to put that in until after all those are in, but at the point they are VERY difficult to get in.
#30
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
FrancescoR,
Another suggestion based on some difficulty that myself and others had following the sequence of the build in the manual. I will assume that you have read the manual all the way to its end. If not I suggest you do.
The cabane wires were prebent at slightly the wrong angles and was the cause for improper incidence angles of the main wings. It also ended that the lower wings could not be joined with a straight leading edge.
Now pay attention . . . I will try to explain as clearly as I can.
The top wing has no dihedral. It is in a flat geometrical plane.
The lower wing has a small dihedral as a result of assembling the top wing and the I strut to the top wingsand to the lower wings not yet joined together (not yet glued together).
That is when we found that the lower wing was nearly 1/2 inch ( about 13 mm too far back toward the tail) andthe top wing incidence was not per drawing. The incidences have to end up correctly with the top wing at minus 1 degree, the bottom wing at 0 degree and the stabiliser at plus 1 1/2 degree.
So my suggestion is ___do not final glue the cabane assembly and the laminated base of the cabane that fits in the fuselage until you have built both the top and bottom wings. Do not join and glue the bottom wings half together until you can make a test fit and the bottom wing fits properly in the fuselage saddle and has a straight leading edge and the join of the bottom wings have the slight dihedral that results.
I have pictures illustrating that difficulty but I do not wish at this moment to post any of my pictures in the thread you initiated.
This post is aimed at trying to help you avoid running into the same problem myself and others also reported.
You are doing very well and keep up the good work. The Skybolt is a super good looking and good flying airplane.
Best to you,
Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
@smithcreek[/b]I had glued formers F3, F4 and F5. Again only i had checked placement of belly former (BF) and two bolt block. For plane next step is glue BF. So you tell that next step is glue wing bolt blocks and BF?
@Zor[/b]I'll remember.
@Zor[/b]I'll remember.
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
@ smithcreek [/b]I had glued formers F3, F4 and F5. Again only i had checked placement of belly former (BF) and two bolt block. For plane next step is glue BF. So you tell that next step is glue wing bolt blocks and BF?
@ smithcreek [/b]I had glued formers F3, F4 and F5. Again only i had checked placement of belly former (BF) and two bolt block. For plane next step is glue BF. So you tell that next step is glue wing bolt blocks and BF?
One of the next steps is gluing in the forwad former and firewall. A good trick is to find something like a coffee can that has a similar radius as the former and firewall, soak the sides with some water or water + ammonia, then wrap tape or elastic with the can in between the sides. You may only be able to do one side at a time. Getting those side to bend to conform to the former and firewall can be difficult otherwise.
#33
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
@smithcreek[/b]I had glued formers F3, F4 and F5. Again only i had checked placement of belly former (BF) and two bolt block. For plane next step is glue BF. So you tell that next step is glue wing bolt blocks and BF?
@Zor[/b]I'll remember.
@smithcreek[/b]I had glued formers F3, F4 and F5. Again only i had checked placement of belly former (BF) and two bolt block. For plane next step is glue BF. So you tell that next step is glue wing bolt blocks and BF?
@Zor[/b]I'll remember.
Another thing easily overlooked. Look at the top view of the fuselage in the drawing.
F1A and F1B the firewall is glued at an angle to provide a bit of right thrust. The grooves inside the fuselage sides are wider than the thickness of F1A and F1B together.
When gluing (30 min epoxy here) the firewall the right side, as the pilot sees it, is located to the rear space of the groove and the left side is glued to the front side of the groove. It would be a difficult correction to make if not done per drawing.
Just being helpfull, I hope, regardless of some possible criticism from others.
Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
Guys,
I have not built the last week cause away from home for work. I started testing the coupling of the remaining parts to complete the inside of the fuselage, I have a question I try to clarify attaching a photo about the fixing of the firewall. The doubt comes from the non-symmetry of the support for the fuel tank and, as shown in the picture, the firewall has a margin of adjustment forward or backward on its right side, can someone help me?
I have not built the last week cause away from home for work. I started testing the coupling of the remaining parts to complete the inside of the fuselage, I have a question I try to clarify attaching a photo about the fixing of the firewall. The doubt comes from the non-symmetry of the support for the fuel tank and, as shown in the picture, the firewall has a margin of adjustment forward or backward on its right side, can someone help me?
#35
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
Guys,
I have not built the last week cause away from home for work. I started testing the coupling of the remaining parts to complete the inside of the fuselage, I have a question I try to clarify attaching a photo about the fixing of the firewall. The doubt comes from the non-symmetry of the support for the fuel tank and, as shown in the picture, the firewall has a margin of adjustment forward or backward on its right side, can someone help me?
Guys,
I have not built the last week cause away from home for work. I started testing the coupling of the remaining parts to complete the inside of the fuselage, I have a question I try to clarify attaching a photo about the fixing of the firewall. The doubt comes from the non-symmetry of the support for the fuel tank and, as shown in the picture, the firewall has a margin of adjustment forward or backward on its right side, can someone help me?
Did you read post 27 ?
The fuel tank piece reflects the same angle and has to be installed with the proper side up to match the angle of the firewall.
The drawing is clearly marked " 2 degrees right thrust ".
Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ok but i don't undestand (also if i beleive that must to be so) becausethe firewall is not necessary perpendicular to the external structure, there is a gap between it and tank support.
#37
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
ok but i don't undestand (also if i beleive that must to be so) because the firewall is not necessary perpendicular to the external structure, there is a gap between it and tank support.
ok but i don't undestand (also if i beleive that must to be so) because the firewall is not necessary perpendicular to the external structure, there is a gap between it and tank support.
The firewall is NOT perpendicular to the external structure which also means it is not perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the fuselage. As I already said there is a 2 degrees of right thrust as clearly shown on the drawing.
The tank support with proper face up butts (touches) against the firewall and is glued to the firewall thus the angle at the front of the tank support piece matching the anle of the firewall. Again the drawing illustrate that very well.
Looking at your picture you seem to have things correct and I do not see a gap in your picture. I do see in your pic that the fuselage sides are not yet brought in to the formers (bulkheads).
Perhaps I do not understand your situation and what you are describing and someone else may explain better than I can. It just seem all clear to me on the drawing.
Regards from Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
Guys,
I have not built the last week cause away from home for work. I started testing the coupling of the remaining parts to complete the inside of the fuselage, I have a question I try to clarify attaching a photo about the fixing of the firewall. The doubt comes from the non-symmetry of the support for the fuel tank and, as shown in the picture, the firewall has a margin of adjustment forward or backward on its right side, can someone help me?
Guys,
I have not built the last week cause away from home for work. I started testing the coupling of the remaining parts to complete the inside of the fuselage, I have a question I try to clarify attaching a photo about the fixing of the firewall. The doubt comes from the non-symmetry of the support for the fuel tank and, as shown in the picture, the firewall has a margin of adjustment forward or backward on its right side, can someone help me?
#39
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
Four weeks after the start of build of airplane's fuselage and back begin to take shape. Last week came the koverall.
1. Koveral with size 1.2 x 4.5 m
2-3-4. Firewall and fuel tank support gluing
5-6. Fuselage views
7-8 Elevator and fin after sanding, you can see still balsa filler not worked
9-10. temporary fixing of the rear to fuselage, I did it out of curiosity and to see the result
I left somewhere in the back around the edges, work the curves was not very difficult, I like the result, even the pairing is good. The fuselage after fixing the skeleton interior has undergone a few dents on the outside I'll have to tinker with the filler for balsa
1. Koveral with size 1.2 x 4.5 m
2-3-4. Firewall and fuel tank support gluing
5-6. Fuselage views
7-8 Elevator and fin after sanding, you can see still balsa filler not worked
9-10. temporary fixing of the rear to fuselage, I did it out of curiosity and to see the result
I left somewhere in the back around the edges, work the curves was not very difficult, I like the result, even the pairing is good. The fuselage after fixing the skeleton interior has undergone a few dents on the outside I'll have to tinker with the filler for balsa
#40
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
I have a doubt about the measures of the engine support (Dave Browne 120F) with respect to the flight plan as shown in the photo is almost an inch shorter.
I close my questions to those who have already installed, thanks for the help
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
I think the kit comes with three 1/4" pieces of plywood to use as spacers, see page 15. If you use the engine mount that comes with the kit you don't need them, if you use the Dave Brown one you might need one or two.
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
Dave,
i'm reading on the manual that using an 120 engine you do not need a spacer.
Place your pic that i have cutted for show as is not need spacer.
It 's strange, but the engine support is the Dave Brown's biggest, there are no mistake.
#43
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
FrancescoR,
You are doing beautifully and no doubt enjoying your work.
Your Skybolt will become the ancher of your hangar.
and _ _ _ just wait for flying this machine _ _ _ it is a superb flier.
Suggestion . . .
Using the spacers if you have to (page 15 and 16) temporaily screw in the spacers and do not glue until you have mounted the engine and fitted the engine cowl.
Are you installing the engine sideways (horizontal cylinder) or inverted at some angle ?
Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
I think my kit came with a Great Planes adjustable engine mount, not sure though. That mount is longer that the Dave Brown and lets you put the engine farther out. Since the Dave Brown mount is shorter you will need at least one spacer.
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
@ Zor I use O.S. engine model FS-120s-e as in the pic (isa 4-stroke engine)
In my kit i found a couple of Great Planes engine support notsuitable for supporting a motor 120 as manual explain. SoI bought this other engine support.
Ok, i will see as mount it.
I need an alternative method for bending thetube for ventilation system without using the spring bender that i have not (I attach a photo to clarify), some idea?
In my kit i found a couple of Great Planes engine support notsuitable for supporting a motor 120 as manual explain. SoI bought this other engine support.
Ok, i will see as mount it.
I need an alternative method for bending thetube for ventilation system without using the spring bender that i have not (I attach a photo to clarify), some idea?
#47
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
@ Zor I use O.S. engine model FS-120s-e as in the pic (is a 4-stroke engine)
In my kit i found a couple of Great Planes engine support not suitable for supporting a motor 120 as manual explain. So I bought this other engine support.
Ok, i will see as mount it.
I need an alternative method for bending the tube for ventilation system without using the spring bender that i have not (I attach a photo to clarify), some idea?
@ Zor I use O.S. engine model FS-120s-e as in the pic (is a 4-stroke engine)
In my kit i found a couple of Great Planes engine support not suitable for supporting a motor 120 as manual explain. So I bought this other engine support.
Ok, i will see as mount it.
I need an alternative method for bending the tube for ventilation system without using the spring bender that i have not (I attach a photo to clarify), some idea?
From your attached picture I figure you are talking about the vent tube for the fuel tank. That tube is also providing a pressure in the fuel tank from being connected with a hose to the muffler.
Following is how I bend small brass tubing in this application and it works very well. Only the last 1/2 inch (last 12 mm) or so remains straight at the end of the tube. I first use some thin sheet metal like the top of a soup can and bend it around a drill bit that has just about the same diameter as the outside of the brass tube and form a U shape. That will be used to prevent the brass tube from widening at the bend. I then select a drill bit that just slips inside the end of the brass tube for a length of 1 inch (25 mm).
Now try to visualize the following. I place the brass tube inside the U shaped tin can piece which is there only to avoid vise jaw indentations to mark (to scratch) the outside surface of the brass tube. I close the vise just to prevent the vise gap from widening. The vise is not tightened on the U sheet. Big vise grip pliers can be used instead of a vise.
Now the brass tube can easily be bent by hand while a drill bit is on the inside at the end. Do not put the bending force on that drill bit; it would get the brass tube out of round. Put the force on the brass tube itself with your fingers. You can bend only enough that the end of the brass tube reach near the tank top. A gap of at least 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) should exist between the brass tube and the tank top after assembly.
It is a lot easier to do than to explain in writing.
Hoping this helps you.
Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
@ Zor: I did not understand much of your technique for bending
Really few time for to build. I add some pics about the last work.
1-2. Servos mount
3-4-5-6. Preliminary set up pull-pull for rudder
7. Test final position servo's mount, reversed the elevator's rod andincline support for servo to ensure that the threads of the pull-pull movements do not rub together and wear out too much the plastic coating
8-9-10. Elevetor rod preliminary set up, and add tube to elevator's rod
I make some modifiy to plan, add support to prevent oscillations to elevetar'rod.
Necessary to make a preliminary set-up of rods because after think is very stronge with fuselage closed.
Next step is the add the engine'rod preliminary set up
Really few time for to build. I add some pics about the last work.
1-2. Servos mount
3-4-5-6. Preliminary set up pull-pull for rudder
7. Test final position servo's mount, reversed the elevator's rod andincline support for servo to ensure that the threads of the pull-pull movements do not rub together and wear out too much the plastic coating
8-9-10. Elevetor rod preliminary set up, and add tube to elevator's rod
I make some modifiy to plan, add support to prevent oscillations to elevetar'rod.
Necessary to make a preliminary set-up of rods because after think is very stronge with fuselage closed.
Next step is the add the engine'rod preliminary set up
#49
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
ORIGINAL: FrancescoR
@ Zor: I did not understand much of your technique for bending
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@ Zor: I did not understand much of your technique for bending
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I did the best I could with English text.
Sorry it was not clear to you.
I took time today to try to come up with pictures to help you and perhaps other readers.
I do not know the order the pictures will appear but they are pretty evident to me.
I hope they will help this time. If you read the previous posting and look at the picture I hope things will become clear. Note that the tin can cover is only to prevent the vise grip jaws (or bench vise) to make markings on the outside of the brass tube.
Zor
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RE: Super Skybolt build from Italy
FrancescoR
I recently completed my Skybolt. As mentioned on the other threads, mine also came out tail-heavy. It is good that you chose the 4-stroke, because the higher weight lets it balance easier. Mine has the OS 75 AX 2-stroke engine. I had to move the engine as far forward as possible and still had to add 200g in front to balance. Also wish I had mounted my servos only after checking CG. Do the final sanding to make the cowl fit only after finding the final position of engine, or end up with loose-fitting cowl if you have to move engine forward as I did.
Mine is covered with Solartex + paint and weighs 4.3 kg.
It is a great plane and flies really well.
Gerhard
I recently completed my Skybolt. As mentioned on the other threads, mine also came out tail-heavy. It is good that you chose the 4-stroke, because the higher weight lets it balance easier. Mine has the OS 75 AX 2-stroke engine. I had to move the engine as far forward as possible and still had to add 200g in front to balance. Also wish I had mounted my servos only after checking CG. Do the final sanding to make the cowl fit only after finding the final position of engine, or end up with loose-fitting cowl if you have to move engine forward as I did.
Mine is covered with Solartex + paint and weighs 4.3 kg.
It is a great plane and flies really well.
Gerhard