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Royal-FW190A8

Old 07-07-2013, 07:25 PM
  #376  
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Default RE: Royal-FW190A8

Still here Tom. Still watching and learning.
John
Old 07-07-2013, 09:52 PM
  #377  
bigtim
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Default RE: Royal-FW190A8

thanks for the complement John this has really been a testing ground for me putting some lessons to work trial and quite a few errors and course corrections but this one is getting closer to the finish line.
Old 07-18-2013, 11:27 PM
  #378  
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so my bomb rack has been installed, using the reference points on the plans I cut most of the way through the part at the location of wing joint, leaving enough material near the outer most area so the part was stable, and I could align the entire piece on the center of the fuse yet separate the part at the wing joint.

it was a simple install,I just aligned the part and with a sharp pencil trace the part profile onto the bottom of the wing and glued it in place, after sanding the saddle are for a tight fit

to fill the very small gap and blend it to the wing and fuse, I used my finger and some light weight filler to remove the gaps and blend it.

another adjustment was to rebuild the front wind screen, it was twisted and looked funny when I finally assembled the plane, when it was sitting on its wheels the screen was crooked, just some minor adjustments did the trick.
the major improvement was to clean up the transition at the gun hood with a new piece of plywood, it looked goofy so I made some new pieces out of thin 1/32ply I didn't even notice it was off until after it was all together.

next project will be the gun hood latch it will be similar to my ESM gun hood with some changes.

had to do a little editing on this post I must have been tired when I wrote this one because it was unreadable (:
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:30 AM
  #379  
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Default RE: Royal-FW190A8

didn't get much done this weekend worked Sat and was really burnt out and didn't get to the hood latch.

but I wanted to start the process of making the gear doors,I decided to use balsa instead of fiberglass for the wing skin portion.

to do this I cut some light weight 3/32 balsa sheeting to length and tacked it along the edges to the wing area at the wheel wells with blue tape, then misted the wood with a alcohol and water mix on the exposed area.

I made sure to clean up the excess with a paper towel but the wood was fairly wet when I placed a strapping piece of tape at the wheel section of the retract bay, this is where the cover conforms to the shape of the lower wing skin I wasn't worried about the inside of the sheeting since I wanted a outside curve and the water mix swelled the outer portion of the wood making it naturally curve in the direction I was aiming for.

this will be left over night to dry in place and should have a nicely preformed skin to work from,the 3/32 balsa also will be thick enough to have some area to sand to shape before I glass them.

next step will be carefully cutting the skins and some infrastructure for mounting the doors onto the struts.
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:03 AM
  #380  
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so I finally got to fitting the door skins to the wing

after removing the tape at the inboard section, the area where the wheel is, and then tracing the outline of the balsa sheeting,I removed the last piece of tape so I could see what I was working with, the pre bent balsa had a nice curve and matched the wing well.

I then took my gear bay opening template and lined up the opening and made some reference lines so I could transfer the pattern onto the sheeting,I also traced the pattern on the wing to check how much trimming the opening needed as well once the pieces were cut out just a few small adjustments and the doors fit perfectly and had a nice curve like the scale plane this is the first step in making the doors but so far there nice and light and I am happy with the fit.
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:02 PM
  #381  
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so this is a bit of a test as well, since RCU has all the past photos in jpeg format now I will have to get used to this and I guess 2.1 mb is too large but 1.9 is not.

I have now removed the lower portion of the wheel/strut cover and did a fitting of it into the wheel wells, I used my walk around book to aproximate the proper cover shape now I will glass the skin to add rigidity and add some internal details I am very happy with the curve and contour of the covers to the wing skin.
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Last edited by bigtim; 08-06-2013 at 03:05 PM.
Old 08-11-2013, 10:05 PM
  #382  
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making progress since I have cut out the gear doors I decided they needed glassing,so with some WB poly I glassed on some light weight cloth this was a small challenge because I didn't seal the balsa the moisture in the poly warped the pieces a bit after a couple of coats on the outside I painted a coat on the inner area and the extreme curve flattened out and they returned to there original curve its something to watch out for when using WB material and balsa its very sensitive to moisture, now that it is sealed and lightly sanded though, additional coats don't seem to affect the wood at all and I am building up the thickness so they can be primed I do have some plans for the mounting area which I will post on late
trying to edit posts right now is wack sort of bumming me out on how un user friendly it is right now, so I will just post what I have
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Last edited by bigtim; 08-11-2013 at 10:17 PM.
Old 08-11-2013, 10:20 PM
  #383  
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so this is what I did to create the latching mech.on the gun hood.

first I made a guide at the gun slots where the guns slide under the hood

I then centered some holes for piano wire to slide into, the wire will work as the lock and double as the gun core I used this same idea when I made the mech. for my ESM FW190 next was to glue in a guide on the gun hood to anchor the guide tubes in photo#3 this was tricky because I needed to use this to hold the tubes in place.

to do this, after gluing the wood in place with some med CA, I used the full length wire to make marks in the wood rib using the cowl indentations as a guide and the length of the wire for a reference.

I then removed enough wood to allow the aluminum guide tubes to slide in the grove and align so I could tack them in place with 5 min epoxy, the guides are slightly past the wood rib so the epoxy would not become a problem, I then flared out the receiving end of the tube, and also made a slight point on the wire to make the wire find the tube easier.

I then slid the wire through the wood guide, placed the tubes over the wire, and tacked the aluminum tubes one at a time to the gun hood, a little trial and error to get them aligned properly and with the tubes set I applied more epoxy to really secure the tubes in place once the epoxy was hard the hood had zero play and I am confident it will stay put.

on the exposed ends of the wire I will build some guns for decoration and scale looks
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Last edited by bigtim; 08-11-2013 at 11:31 PM.
Old 08-19-2013, 11:16 PM
  #384  
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tonight's post is really just a small detail on the rod ends, its the guns.

the first thing was to glue some of the guide tube aluminum stock, about a 1/2 inch or so to the wire pins to take up space and allow the gun barrel to line up with the wire rods these were glued in place with some thin CA I gave the wire a liberal sanding and the CA did the trick.

the next layer was the gun barrel and flash suppressor, I used some brass tubing I had on hand and with needle nosed jewelers pliers I began to pinch and flare each of the ends approx an 1/8 of a inch down the tube on each side, the pliers are round on the end so they leave very few marks when manipulating the metal I found if I went to aggressively the edge would become too thin and crack so a bit of patience was key,I tried to make the flares fairly equal working on each end until I was satisfied with the shape, once done I determined a good size using my docs and cut the tubing off.

once cut they slipped over the first layer of tubing and again with thin CA I glued them in place.

lastly was the cooling barrel they didn't come out quite as nice as I wanted, but they will work, the bit was so small it had some flex which made it difficult to line up the holes perfectly, I guess I could have been more meticulous but overall they look OK and with some paint they will be nearly invisible my ESM guns came out a bit better but the drill was a couple sizes larger which helped.

lastly I took some fuel tubing,and slid it over the brass barrel forward enough so the last piece was properly positioned, and with some Med CA glued the last tube in place, the tube was a little loose so the thicker glue worked well to take up the gap, the fuel tubing works as a friction lock so the rods have just a Little tension I did need to sand the cowl just a little bit but it was a minor adjustment.

overall I am happy with the results and my hatch has securing pins that are long enough so that there not likely to slide out.

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Old 09-16-2013, 11:42 PM
  #385  
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holy cow its been almost a month since i posted well i have been working on the gear doors and there slow going, or its more like I am slow going.

I have fit the doors into there holes and glued in a perch/rail along the edge of the retract bay using some wood that I cut into some 5/32 strips.

I then fit them along the edge of the bay so the doors have a edge to sit on for a tight seal at the wing skin, this served a dual purpose firstly so the doors fit tight to the wing skin, but they also serve to stiffen the edge of the opening and make it less fragile preventing breakage I found the wheel bays were far too easily broken when the skin was not reinforced enough, now the edge is very strong and I only added a small piece of wood to the edge.

one thing I did do was to glue the least amount of wood so it would get a good hold but not add a lot of additional weight this was a trial and error method with some carving a few notches here and there to get a tight fit before glueing the strips in place, once dry I sanded off the excess wood that was hanging out in the bay, so there was a minimum around the opening, nice thing is there was plenty of strength in the small amount of wood that was there,I did use some dense balsa wood for the strips from some extra scrap I had laying around.

I then cut a channel along the edge of the retract door to match the thickness of the wing skin since I used thicker wood for the doors and filled this with wood filler to be sanded back s there is a smooth transition to the wing skin, I will post more on the inner door details later.

I also purchased some screws that have a scale look to them( there originally for model trains) to screw the covers to the struts, they will look pretty good after some paint is applied.

the sharpie line on the one door is for referencing the retract strut but I have concocted a better way to align the attachment screws.

BTW I still haven't figured out this RCU board its still not that user friendly
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Last edited by bigtim; 09-16-2013 at 11:55 PM.
Old 10-13-2013, 01:02 AM
  #386  
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wow another month gone by, well a couple of things firstly I decided to go with a slightly smaller wheel 3 1/4 Williams Bros. wheel,it looks quite a bit better and they work with the struts I have, the Robart wheels were rubbing on the strut and I was going to need to shim them out to roll smoothly, they were also just a tiny bit large for the space I had in the wing bay and were rubbing at the edge of the wheel well.

after looking closely at my docs I decided to make some small details on the inside of the wheel covers, firstly I cut some small brass tubing as a guide for the screws used to hold the doors onto the struts about a fat 1/8 long after drilling the mounting holes I glued them in place then filled the spaces between them with scrap light weight balsa as a cradle for the strut, after shaping and a little sanding the cover was mated to the strut nice and tight I then added some small scraps to add thickness,strength, and dimension to the interior of the cover.

I then used some brass strip to bend hold down brackets to attach then to the strut leg,

all these little tweaks took a few evenings to get the covers dialed and fitting properly,lastly will be bedding the gear I do this with the Robart Plastic gear so they don't have any twist in the retract body they work allot smoothly that way I will post more on that later.

lastly I mounted the gun cover with some button head cap screws I am inching towards paint thankfully I will have some time tomorrow to work on this and push it closer to the finish line.

Last edited by bigtim; 10-13-2013 at 01:04 AM.
Old 10-13-2013, 07:39 AM
  #387  
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Looking terrific Bigtim. I would like to offer a suggestion which I know is late in coming. However if you can, I would angle your struts more towards the L.E. edge of the wing. This will go a long way towards eliminating nose overs on landing that this model is prone to do.

Cheers,
Old 10-13-2013, 02:10 PM
  #388  
bigtim
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Originally Posted by Duplicator41
Looking terrific Bigtim. I would like to offer a suggestion which I know is late in coming. However if you can, I would angle your struts more towards the L.E. edge of the wing. This will go a long way towards eliminating nose overs on landing that this model is prone to do.

Cheers,
unfortunately the space provided in the wing forward of the center spar, doesn't give much for extra forward rake part of the reason I had to use a smaller wheel because I didn't have much extra space I might be able to shim the gear a tiny bit but I really havent had to much trouble with tip overs on my other planes at the local club the runway is Astro turf if it was grass it might be of more concern.

as it is right now the plane balanced is right around 10 lbs which is a little brickish should be right about 10 when I am finished
Old 10-13-2013, 04:00 PM
  #389  
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Having built this model about 40 years ago, 10 lbs. is pretty darn good and it will fly well at this weight. I do recall that landings were a bear on a paved runway and shimming up the back of the retract units helped out a lot. Check out these 3.5" FW190 wheels. for only $5.00 per set. Just for fun and curiosity, I picked up a set. I will put them on a B.T. Fw190.

http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.ph...c5c745827f2a92

Cheers,
Old 10-13-2013, 04:01 PM
  #390  
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Ps. I did mean to add that they are quite thin.

Cheers,
Old 10-13-2013, 04:52 PM
  #391  
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those are pretty slick looking and at 3.5" there just about right,I like the rivet detail on the hubs
Old 10-13-2013, 04:54 PM
  #392  
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Still Here Tim!!!!!!!
Old 11-10-2013, 11:01 PM
  #393  
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I never thought gear doors were such a pain in the rear I guess when they curve like the wing there more touchy, I did sand the inside details of the doors down a bit so they had a softer looking detail I then glassed the interior of the doors with .56oz cloth so they would have a extra stiffness to them, there surprisingly light weight which made me happy and the details look fairly scale as I tried to copy the actual door interiors from my walk around book.

I then primed the doors with auto spray primer my go to prime material.

I was also having gear issues they were really stiff and were sticking sometimes this was the bedding I was referring to.

what I did was shim the outboard side of the gear body just slightly with some thin plywood pieces very small but enough to raise the body to allow the struts to toe in just a tiny bit there wasn't much room in the wheel bay so I took what I could while still allowing the wheel to not hit the upper wing skin.

I then put blue tape around the retract body and taped off the edge of the recess in the wing, I then mixed some 5 min epoxy up with micro balloon filler and carefully buttered up the retract rails with enough so it would squeeze out on the wing side, but not so much that I couldn't get the gear out when the epoxy had hardened, I then screwed the gear in place carefully, not to over tighten but to seat the gear fully without any twist in the plastic body or flanges the excess squeezed out over the taped area.

once it had stiffened up I worked the gear out and allowed it to fully harden, there was a couple of small gaps that I filled with small amounts of epoxy but they were minor,the excess came off the wing with the tape with little to no effort.

I then disassembled the piston of each gear and added a couple of drops of air tool oil to each cylinder after screwing them back together the gear operated smoothly when I pumped them up and went through a few cycles.

3 more minor tasks
1.open the cowl at the engine head just a tiny bit more.
2.finish some small details in the fuse a radio wire mast on the tail and a little detail at the cowl.
3.tap in a fitting at the exhaust pipes so excess oil can drain out( I have purchased a fitting I just need to drill and tap the threads

and then I am ready for painting which should go fairly quickly since I have had the paint for this model for quite a while that I purchased from www,warbirdcolors.com , I already have my next project in the hopper so the final push on this project is upon me.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:57 PM
  #394  
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I been watching this come together for a while and this is looking great! Can't wait to see the painting. I will need to get started on my build. Excellent work!
Old 11-11-2013, 06:40 PM
  #395  
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Second !!!!!
Old 11-11-2013, 09:08 PM
  #396  
bigtim
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thanks guys and a happy Memorial Day to every one of our vets.

knocking off some of the tasks today first was to open up the hole in the bottom of the cowl just a bit for some clearance,my last cut in the cowl will be for the needle valve, but I need to make a extension for that to happen.

on the fuse I made the antenna post for the tail,what I did so it would be sturdy was use some 1/16 plywood to make the spine of the antenna and to guide the shape,I also made sure that the ply would sit firmly on the top of the Vertical stab in the position I wanted it in so there were no gaps.

I then used some 3/32 balsa on each side of the ply as filler and so it could be shaped into the desired taper,the 2 balsa pieces were also allowed to hang past the bottom of the ply piece and with a round file I made a saddle where the glue joint was to maximize the surface area for strength, then using thick CA I glued the piece in place making sure to position it properly.

after it was dry I used my preferred wood filler to blend areas into the stab at the base,I didn't need much filler so it dried quickly and I sanded it down and a couple shots of primer and its looking decent now, and sturdy its little points like these that tend to break off and get damaged


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Old 02-23-2014, 09:30 PM
  #397  
bigtim
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all right! so after a couple of coats of primer here and there and a few sand backs I finally got the painting actually started I first began on the rudder since it was going to be yellow and my experience with the warbird colors yellow is it doesn't cover all that well, after a few coats it needs to be sanded a little for the final layers,
I included a pic with the rudder on the fuse for looks, but it still needs a coat or 3 to get the rich color I want,next time I paint the yellow(under the cowl chin) I will prime with a white spray primer i use frequently, because it just takes so many coats over the grey primer.

next was to paint the under side of the wing, H-stab, and fuse sides, with RLM-76 its a med light blueish grey color,I have a decent quantity of it so I shot most of the fuse with it just to get a coat of paint everywhere except the top of the elevators and the gun hood area which still is going to get some work done.

I retracted the gear and placed some news paper in the wells to cover the wheels for masking and using my Huskey touch up gun from Home Depot I shot all the surfaces and allowed them to dry.

once dry I sanded the areas with some 220 grit no clog paper to get any rough or bad areas cleaned up, I hit it again with a nice even coat over all the areas I felt needed some extra paint or that I had sanded through to the primer.

the touch up gun works great powered by my compressor at about 35lbs pressure, it takes a little getting used to at first but I have worked out the kinks shooting the Water Based material thinning about 25% with just plain tap water,SF water is pretty good right out of the tap if your using well water or something with a high mineral content then distilled or purified might be a better choice, I know allot of guys use window washer fluid and I have as well, but plain water works fine for a hotter mixture I have put 5-10% denatured alcohol in my spray mix if the weather is a bit on the cold side.
right now were in a serious drought and the weather is unseasonably warm here great for spraying not so great otherwise, the paint dry's off quickly when I use the touch up gun and apply thin coats but I am going to wait till tomorrow before I start on the camo scheme
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:18 AM
  #398  
johnboy151a
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Looks great Tim!

John
Old 02-25-2014, 05:32 PM
  #399  
bigtim
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thanks John
well today's post is all bout camo, so I did some research and checking at www.tompierce.net because I like his work, and was wondering why I had a little can of RLM 02 in my paint pile, low and behold it was for the inner flap bays and wheel wells, yesterday I hand painted the inside surfaces of the flaps and bays with the 02 I was really pleased with how well the color covered just 2 coats was all I needed to get a nice rich color I made sure to catalyze the paint for fuel resistance because I am not going to clear coat in there to save weight, I will do the wheel wells once I am done with the wing upper side.

on to the wing and fuse I taped the edge with some 3M blue tape more as a shield than any thing I will sand this edge back before I clear coat to soften the line, I then shot my RLM 75 in a approximate pattern that I will be doing the camo scheme in going past the edge I have in mind bit not so much as to add excessive paint to the plane.

next was to shoot the fuse and cowl again in areas I will be using the purplish #75 but not so much as to add extra weight, I did all this yesterday,

I probably could have done more then but I wanted the coat to thoroughly dry so I could sand it in any rough areas and fix a drip I found when I shot the light blue that I didn't catch, I have found that several light coats work well with the paint and it hardly ever drips when I use my touch up gun, but I hit it just a little heavy in one spot.

today I gave the fuse and wing a rub down in the areas I shot the RLM 75 with some of the no clog 220G paper to touch up a couple of rough spots and hit every thing with another coat of the what could best be described as a grayish purple color the first photos are of the fist sanded areas and then the final spray finsish of the RLM 75 I will check it later to see if the surfaces are dry enough to start on the RLM 74 green later.

next will be RLM 74 a green to fill in the bare spots at the gun hood, canopy area and some select spot on the fuse, as well as the wing areas and tips of the elevator,once I do that I will go back and clean up some of the excess areas with the RLM 76 more on that later some pics of my progress.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:14 PM
  #400  
Chad Veich
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You gotta love it when the color starts going on! Great looking bird Tim, nice work.

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