jonesjj3

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How much for those graphics

Hellcat716

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Check out Callie Graphics.com. She has a lot of warbird graphics and does work very quickly and at a great price.

JKreitz

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I want to say they were around $50 delivered, considering everything he did, I thought it was a really fair price and the quality is excellent.

jonesjj3

My Feedback: (16)

Does anyone have any feedback on if a DLE 85 will work in this TF GS Corsair? did a search but not much came up.

Thanks for any feed back on this

mike boxtall

I saw a guy on YouTube that had a DLE 111 in the KMP giant scale. Wasn't screaming fast but had vertical power that wouldn't quit. I'd wait until they come out with a rear exhaust version of the 85. I'm not too impressed with what's been written about it so far. When I heard about it I thought it would go great in the P-51 giant. Then I saw that it wasn't rear exhaust. A little disappointing.

jonesjj3

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks for the reply I was just thinking if I put the DLE 55 in it and I have a Rear Exhaust one of those that I would have to add dead weight for ballast and if I just went with a bigger eng that it may be a better choice for adding weight with the benefit of a little more power.

mike boxtall

If it were me I'd do the 111. You have the added weight in the nose and for those that don't like that much power there is always the option to throttle back. You have reduced vibration from the twin and it will fit great if you go with 1/4" standoffs. Total width from cap to cap is 11 7/8". Although I'm a bit of a hack when I build and I build to suit. I don't necessarily go for aesthetics. So I will get bashed by the scale fliers/builders.

tlroliff

My Feedback: (38)

I concur with jkreitz. He and I have have virtually identical set ups in our Corsairs and are having a blast this summer flying together and in bigger formations with other fellow warbird enthusiasts. No complaints from me and they have impressed the best and most experienced warbird pilots I know. Very stable and good presence in the air. Take your time, build it the best you can and you will have an airplane you can just gas up and fly. It has more than enough steam with the DLE-55 and I ended up with only about 1.5lb in the nose. I have been putting 4-8 flights or more per week on it with out any major issue beyond the normal new airplane shakedown stuff the first few flights. Just enjoy it! It's just a great airplane. As each weekend winds down I can hardly wait to fly it again

My graphics are from Bad Brad Graphics as well. The paint scheme is a ship flown by astronaut and senator John Glen as a Marine.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

+1

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

For those that have balanced their model with a DLE 55. How much weight did you add to the nose and did you have a scale pilot? Using the 5 3/4 mark in the instructions I need about 40 ozs. This seems a lot!! I have a 3200 life battery just under the wing dowel holes.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I added 1lb 14oz of lead with the DLE 55RA for the maiden flight and up until recently. I have since added working cowl flaps so I took off a few ounces to compensate.
I have a 12in scale pilot figure but I removed his feet to fit in the cockpit better. I have a saddle pack 3500mah LiPo for ignition on top of the engine and a 2100mah pack in the stock position about mid wing in the fuse.

I fly with a 22X10 or 22X8 but the best prop Ive tried was a 22.4X10 that I made from a Zinger 24X10. I rounded the tips and painted it black and yellow. The DLE really liked it and the engine had good temps and very positive performance all around. My cowl loosened in flight and rubbed the back of the prop so it was ruined... Watch your cowl hardware!

Most recently I tried a 22X6-10 and the DLE didnt like it. Lots of revs lots of noise but not enough bite or speed.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Chris,

I have a DLE 55 in both my warbirds and they really like Xoar 22x10's. FWIW.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I think your right.
Im going to be experimenting with some carb and reed stuff as well as any port matching needed from the carb to the head. I have done this before on boat engines and have seen great improvements to those engines.
It would be great if anyone would make a new rear exhaust pipe that will fit in cowl and provide a small boost in power.

I have a Solo 3 blade hub I'm dying to try on this engine but I only have 24in blades. Thats just outside this engines rated prop I know but I might consider cutting them down and rebalancing it. Anyone running a Solo on a DLE 55?

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks Chris, I guess the lipo pack on the engine is the difference. I will try to move the battery below the tank to reduce the weight required.It's hard to find room to mount 40 ozs. of lead.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

There is a pitts muffler for the DLE85. I have a DLE85 in my TF P-47 and it fits with a custom muffler.
I would like to see if it fits in the cowl of the corsair. My plan is to assemble the ARF then fly it for a while, break the engine in, put a 3 blade prop on it then strip it down, modify it and glass it.

TB

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I took advantage of the firewall space around the engine mount box. There are pockets there so on the bottom I made a simple plywood wall and stacked my weights there behind the wall. I inserted hardwood dowels into the balsa with epoxy to screw into them. That made the perfect weight compartment.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks, That's a good idea. I am also looking to mount a steel plate between the engine mount ears and the stand offs and attach the lead to those. Moving out requires less.

COL J

hi Capt G. I met and talked with quite a bit last winter at the Sun Valley Flyers warbirds event. Can't remember which retracts you have, Robart electrics or the Down & Locked conversions. ave you had any issues with them? Also, what servors are you using? Just now getting around to putting one of these together. John

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Hi - I have been using the Robart electric retracts with no issues whatsoever (they use Down And Locked actuators). As for servos - I am now using mostly Hi Tech digital servos for elevator and throttle and rudder and HS 645s for everything else. It was an easy build. You will enjoy it. G.

COL J

Hi, I talked with quite a bit when you guys were at the winter warbirds at Sun Valley Flyers last Winter. How have the electric retracts held up? Can't remember whether you had the Robarts or the Down & Locked conversions. Also, what servos did you use? Just now getting around to putting one of these together. Thanks
John

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I moved the battery to the front below the tank

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I then mounted two 12oz. lead bars on steel plates placed between the stand-offs and the engine.After these were mounted I only need 6ozs attached to the engine box to balance 30ozs total. Plane total weight 24 lb.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I flew mine for the first time today.Two flights and all went well.Gear doors also worked well.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Cool! Congrats on the maiden.
Im not sure how soft your lead weight is but Ive seen in the past the bolt holes open up quite a bit from vibration.

Im up to 25+ flights now and so far so good. I just lost one ball linkage for a tail wheel door due to landing on the grass (calling it grass is generous more like weed field). If the Robart retract was more scale so the strut was taller like its supposed to be this wouldnt be an issue. Ive extended it as much as it could go when I first assembled the plane but its not enough. When I get the chance I may go ahead and buy the scale retract to raise the tail up. Just another note about the stock plane to consider...

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks Chris, I extended mine also. Hopefully it will be enough.